Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

[Cotay]

Really nice craftsman ship. Well done!

I wish could take full credit, but the box is made by Heartland Creations...one of their snap lid boxes that I've modified with extra magnets and modified internally for the dna plate....the Dremel was my friend with this project. I have another one that I will be fitting a Polished Nickel Steel faceplate to next. It is far superior to anything I could do with my limited setup I have now. I can work pretty well in the woodshop, but I just don't have room. They are only about $25, which is a fantastic deal.

 

[Cotay]

Very clean...what is the schematic layout of the front bezel you have designed...i.e. are those holes for onboard button use or off-board? I have tried custom printing buttons, but the process was so iterative to get things right that I gave up.

I am using the onboard buttons. I was able to get the sizing right on my second print. The challenge is that Shapeways has an allowable variance in print dimensions for each type of print material, so you need to somewhat oversize the holes on the faceplate for the button dimensions. On my first set of buttons I didn't account for the allowable variance and they wouldn't fit. Since the printed buttons were about $30, I went ahead and also created a faceplate with oversized button holes so I can use them. That will be my DNA25 mod which will have a LiPo battery and 14mm VT 510 (see below).

Here is the back of the steel plate (note the raised metal area at the top of where the dna screen is placed...this has proved to be a problem so on my existing prints I'm filing this out. On my newer prints I've removed it altogether):

This is a much simpler mod that will be all plastic (Blue Strong and Flexible) that will have magnets inside the body and on the faceplate. I also have a version of this designed for metal printing.

This is the revised faceplate with large holes to accommodate my oversized buttons and the DNA mount area has more material in it to pass some new Shapeways design rules.

I have metal threading screws for my metal mods and plastic threading screws for the plastic mods. The DNA board sit on the rails and are secured with screws. The screens are also clamped down with a screen clamp that is screwed down. The USB chargers are screwed down with a plastic mount as well.

This one above is scheduled to ship on June 10. I plan on scavenging a LiPo battery from a iStick 30 clone for this one.

I should note that the idea for the DNA mount arrangement came from Dave'sMods...Dave's 3.1 plates have the same idea of using the DNA's rails to secure it...I did the build by eyeing his plate, but was in communication with him the whole time. Dave's help was invaluable in getting me started with 3D printing and without his assistance I wouldn't have succeeded. His plates are much more sophisticated than mine...especially the adjustment button scheme...my approach is crude compared to his, but I've verified that it works great.

My next challenge is getting my dual 18650 SX350J box finished. I'm about 80% there on that one. It will be a side loader for the batteries.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

so...

even evolv 500mah chargers can catastrophically fail occasionally...

I had one smoke as well. The batteries should be fine, but no harm in testing them. I personally think their 500mAh chargers are sub-par.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

I am using the onboard buttons. I was able to get the sizing right on my second print.

I have printed a number of things from the three major commercial 3d printing houses, but in the end I never felt the resulting mods had the feel I wanted. I may try again now that they have better metal selections, but the accuracy of the metal printing is a bit frightening vs the lost wax they offer. That said, I can make mods by hand using raw metal cheaper and it scratches my "maker" itch just fine.

One thing I did like about printing buttons was the ability to put a graphic on them, so they were more than just plain discs.

 

[Cotay]

I have printed a number of things from the three major commercial 3d printing houses, but in the end I never felt the resulting mods had the feel I wanted. I may try again now that they have better metal selections, but the accuracy of the metal printing is a bit frightening vs the lost wax they offer. That said, I can make mods by hand using raw metal cheaper and it scratches my "maker" itch just fine.

One thing I did like about printing buttons was the ability to put a graphic on them, so they were more than just plain discs.

Indeed, metal prints are expensive, but Shapeways' steel is pretty reasonable compared to the others. The price for all of the Shapeways parts going into the metal body was more than $250 (not including the DNA40, charger board, screws, battery contacts). By the time I'm done with it, the overall price will be north of $400. I definitely could have purchased a very high end mod for what this is costing in both time, labor and materials, but I wanted something I built.

 

[Rossum]

Indeed, metal prints are expensive, but Shapeways' steel is pretty reasonable compared to the others.

Unfortunately, the dimensional tolerances on their steels are, uh, lets's just say, "not wonderful".

 

[Kaana]

Brilliant works guys,

I think I'm enjoying res. & dev. stage more than building.

Today I started modeling a 26650 enclosure and modified a 3d chip mount to large screen.

Need more work on usb, buttons, screen window.
and lid of course.

 

[Cotay]

Unfortunately, the dimensional tolerances on their steels are, uh, lets's just say, "not wonderful".

The variance is ±5%. It is definitely not the most accurate material...I've been lucky to get reasonably close. I wouldn't count on it for large scale production on precision designs for certain.

 

[laurie9300]

O.K. Guys I need some help with my Flask transplant. you can refer to my "Build Log" which you can see here................

DNA40 Transplant into Infinite Clone.pdf - Google Drive

It has started throwing me the "Weak Battery" message. I know this usuall means a poor Negative to the 510 so I pulled it appart and found nothing apparent.

I have checked continuity and it all appears O.K.

In an effort to take the 510 out of the equation I have peeled back the insulation at the board and connected power direct...........same error?

Connected at thew red arrows below...................



Any suggestions before I rip it out?

And before anyone asks............my batteries are good!

 

[Sniffle]

Finally had a chance... And remembered to post this...

Edit: again thjs is my fault... I should have been more diligent about replacing the charger... They can and do wear out over time...

 

[BlueridgeDog]

O.K. Guys I need some help with my Flask transplant.

Have you tried some button tops? My view of those tabs is that they are so flat and large that it could be making poor contact on the positive end.

Also, There is no negative connection from the chip/aty to the negative end of the battery other than the top plate connection. This has been an issue in many of these clones. I would wager the issue is there.

 

[laurie9300]

These were my first thoughts too, thanks for your input. So the first thing I did was connect a battery, via alligator clips to the positive plate, and the negative post on the board, as in my pic...........still the same............

 

[BlueridgeDog]

These were my first thoughts too, thanks for your input. So the first thing I did was connect a battery, via alligator clips to the positive plate, and the negative post on the board, as in my pic...........still the same............

I assume you mean alligator clip to the negative clip to the negative post. That said, I would simply get a battery sled and wire it in temporarily to verify that your chip is not the issue. I keep a keystone sled with long leads for just such a task (an idea stolen from @mikepetro). If it works with the donor sled, then the issue is the arrangement and I would still suspect those flat positive clips and/or the negative grounding of the top cap.

Another test you can do now is a resistance test of your positive and negative connections, looking for a cold solder joint. It could be your error is on the positive side (though not likely).

 

[laurie9300]

I assume you mean alligator clip to the negative clip to the negative post. That said, I would simply get a battery sled and wire it in temporarily to verify that your chip is not the issue. I keep a keystone sled with long leads for just such a task (an idea stolen from @mikepetro). If it works with the donor sled, then the issue is the arrangement and I would still suspect those flat positive clips and/or the negative grounding of the top cap.

Another test you can do now is a resistance test of your positive and negative connections, looking for a cold solder joint. It could be your error is on the positive side (though not likely).

Yeah sorry for the vague post, I have indeed got a battery sled with alligator clips, which I did connect to the positive clips and the B- on the board.

I have resistance checked the connections and they all seem good?

I will un-insulate the positive side tomorrow, just to take a look, then I guess there's no choice but to rip it out, and bench test it!

 

[Phone Guy]

It looks like you jumpered/soldered together bat- and gnd-(output -) correct?

At what point are you getting the weak battery? Are the batteries low? (old, used, drained, etc)

 

[Kaana]

I wish they could print with that surface quality,
maybe in the future

 

[laurie9300]

It looks like you jumpered/soldered together bat- and gnd-(output -) correct?

At what point are you getting the weak battery? Are the batteries low? (old, used, drained, etc)

Correct both GNDs, one wire. I get "Weak Battery" message when I push the "Fire" button. Batteries are good!

 

[Phone Guy]

Correct both GNDs, one wire. I get "Weak Battery" message when I push the "Fire" button. Batteries are good!

Are you always getting weak battery? Or when the batteries are at 50%, 70%, 30%?

Your batteries are new? So you can eliminate the cells...?

When you reassembled, your making good contact at the tops of the batteries? (those tab things)

Did you resolder the +battery terminal wires to the tabs? I did when I did my infinite made flask because I didn't like the way the solder looked on mine. YMMV

Are the threads in the bottom battery caps (-negative side) chassis and caps clean and making good connection? Free of anodizing, paint, and debris. Good metal to bare metal contact.

Are you making good contact at the top plate and main chassis? Are the top plate screws solid in their threads? And not loose? The top plate and screws to the main chassis are the weak link as I remember. That needs to be as good of a connection as possible. Solid and tight.

On mech mods and my semovar I have used noalax (or similar) on all the threads to improve threaded connection (ground connection) I never tried it but I read about someone using arctic silver conductive cpu heatsink compound (or similar) on threads too (again, not me, something I read before)...

Last, someone (croak?) used some silver conductive epoxy to create a direct chassis ground to the center "tube" section (where the chip sled fits in) to eliminate the weak link grounding issue completely. I have not done this but sounds fairly straight forward. (grind a bare metal section and silver epoxy a wire from chassis to ground on the dna)

Those are about all the ideas I can think of right now. Hope something helps.

 

[laurie9300]

Are you always getting weak battery? Or when the batteries are at 50%, 70%, 30%?

Your batteries are new? So you can eliminate the cells...?

When you reassembled, your making good contact at the tops of the batteries? (those tab things)

Did you resolder the +battery terminal wires to the tabs? I did when I did my infinite made flask because I didn't like the way the solder looked on mine. YMMV

Are the threads in the bottom battery caps (-negative side) chassis and caps clean and making good connection? Free of anodizing, paint, and debris. Good metal to bare metal contact.

Are you making good contact at the top plate and main chassis? Are the top plate screws solid in their threads? And not loose? The top plate and screws to the main chassis are the weak link as I remember. That needs to be as good of a connection as possible. Solid and tight.

On mech mods and my semovar I have used noalax (or similar) on all the threads to improve threaded connection (ground connection) I never tried it but I read about someone using arctic silver conductive cpu heatsink compound (or similar) on threads too (again, not me, something I read before)...

Last, someone (croak?) used some silver conductive epoxy to create a direct chassis ground to the center "tube" section (where the chip sled fits in) to eliminate the weak link grounding issue completely. I have not done this but sounds fairly straight forward. (grind a bare metal section and silver epoxy a wire from chassis to ground on the dna)

Those are about all the ideas I can think of right now. Hope something helps.

Thanks for taking the time to post, it is appreciated. I did check all of the above and all seemed O.K. I then re-flowed the + & - solder joints at the board, still no result.

So I have up and pulled the board out, I'll bench test it tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

So I have up and pulled the board out, I'll bench test it tomorrow and see what happens.

Am curious to know what you will find. I bet after you desolder it and put a test lead on it it will magically work...won't that be fun.