Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

[SlickWilly]

Hey, quick question, I finally got my 200 up and running, and my battery (turnigy 1000) is like dead dead. The mod comes on when I hook up usb to charge, when I push the fire button without being connected to usb, it comes on while button is pushed only. Does this sound normal? or did it happen to anyone? Lots of cool mods out there btw.

Have you installed EScrbe and checked if the battery is being charged while viewing the live info under device Monitor? Here is one of mine (with a turnigy 1000 mAh) being charged, note the charge rate to the right of USB Current: 0.485A that's almost half an amp charging the battery.

 

[Vince159]

thanks Willy, when I plug in the batt it says check battery, and the screen only activates when I push the fire button. When I plug in the usb the screen stays on. on device monitor it says 0.00 on everything down to usb voltage. individual cells say 1= 0.09, 2= 0.67, 3= 3.19. When ever I press the fire button it says check battery. I believe I've got some problems in my soldering somewhere.

 

[SlickWilly]

thanks Willy, when I plug in the batt it says check battery, and the screen only activates when I push the fire button. When I plug in the usb the screen stays on. on device monitor it says 0.00 on everything down to usb voltage. individual cells say 1= 0.09, 2= 0.67, 3= 3.19. When ever I press the fire button it says check battery. I believe I've got some problems in my soldering somewhere.

Yeah there is a problem somewhere, I would disconnect the battery ASAP and leave it unhooked until you get ready to work on it. Check to make sure you have the balance wires connected correctly. Did you solder the balance wires to the board? If you soldered the jts balance connector to the board make sure it's on the right way. If you don't spot a problem with the soldered connections then you'll need to check the battery. If you have a digital volt meter check the voltage at the two main leads from the battery and also the readings at the balance wires and see what readings you get. If you can take some good pics and post them here that would help, the guys will help you out and walk you through what to check if you need help with it.

 

[Steamer861]

Good Morning
My 3D printed Beta box is in Customs and am hoping to get back my blown fuse RMA'ed DNA200 this week
Maybe a new mod this weekend

 

[Mad Scientist]

Ahh my newest creation. Dual 18650 dna200 in a billet Hammond 1550p sized box.

Very nice work. That's exactly one of the form factors / configurations I want. I've been looking for a cheap broken Snow Wolf 200 or identical case to mount one in. Usual internet sources turn up nothing for such a case. Where does Snow Wolf get it from? There has to be a Chinese factory churning them out somewhere. If anyone knows where to get such a case at a reasonable price, I'm in.

 

[Mad Scientist]

I wish someone would make a jig we could clamp to the side of a hammond box that would have the holes for drilling and a template for filing the usb port and screen openings, one for the 40 and one for the 200. Any machinists on the list looking for some side cash?

Almost as good, anyone have a .pdf (I think .pdf files preserve dimensions across printers) of a front panel layout? Would make doing multiples much easier -- just glue a printout to the case and machine to the lines. If there is one out there, would be much appreciated.

The last most recent copy of turbocad I have runs on windows 95 -- it has been a while. Still have the software, but not a machine that will run it.

Speaking of libraries and Wilburrrrrrrr -- we used to use these things called pen plotters that actually drew a drawing with an actual special type of pen by moving the pen in one dimension and moving the paper in the other dimension. Still have one in the basement and a shoebox full of the pens. The driver won't run on anything made in the last decade or so.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

thanks Willy, when I plug in the batt it says check battery, and the screen only activates when I push the fire button. When I plug in the usb the screen stays on. on device monitor it says 0.00 on everything down to usb voltage. individual cells say 1= 0.09, 2= 0.67, 3= 3.19. When ever I press the fire button it says check battery. I believe I've got some problems in my soldering somewhere.

Can you post an image of your balance charger connection? The battery end and the connection to the chip. It cold be that the balance charger is backwards. Or, that your pack is a dud. Do you have another to try?

 

[awsum140]

Almost as good, anyone have a .pdf (I think .pdf files preserve dimensions across printers) of a front panel layout? Would make doing multiples much easier -- just glue a printout to the case and machine to the lines. If there is one out there, would be much appreciated.

The last most recent copy of turbocad I have runs on windows 95 -- it has been a while. Still have the software, but not a machine that will run it.

Speaking of libraries and Wilburrrrrrrr -- we used to use these things called pen plotters that actually drew a drawing with an actual special type of pen by moving the pen in one dimension and moving the paper in the other dimension. Still have one in the basement and a shoebox full of the pens. The driver won't run on anything made in the last decade or so.

My first task of my first job in IT was getting an "E" sized color plotter running off of a VAX, LOL. All it took was a break-out box and the plotter manual. I loved watching them work, it was amazing to see everything controlled so exactly and the pen and paper speed was amazing!

 

[tomr1088]

thanks Willy, when I plug in the batt it says check battery, and the screen only activates when I push the fire button. When I plug in the usb the screen stays on. on device monitor it says 0.00 on everything down to usb voltage. individual cells say 1= 0.09, 2= 0.67, 3= 3.19. When ever I press the fire button it says check battery. I believe I've got some problems in my soldering somewhere.

I accidentally bridged the wrong pins on my balance connector and same thing. My board would only turn on from the fire button. It also said my pack voltage was 4.9 v

 

[SlickWilly]

Almost as good, anyone have a .pdf (I think .pdf files preserve dimensions across printers) of a front panel layout? Would make doing multiples much easier -- just glue a printout to the case and machine to the lines. If there is one out there, would be much appreciated.

The last most recent copy of turbocad I have runs on windows 95 -- it has been a while. Still have the software, but not a machine that will run it.

Speaking of libraries and Wilburrrrrrrr -- we used to use these things called pen plotters that actually drew a drawing with an actual special type of pen by moving the pen in one dimension and moving the paper in the other dimension. Still have one in the basement and a shoebox full of the pens. The driver won't run on anything made in the last decade or so.

I think it was Trucker that first used the printed template and posted a pic, I copied the idea from him and it worked well. I filed the screen and usb post openings free hand, a harden template would let you file along the lines and make it faster and more accurate. Here is a couple links of my prior posts with the pdf file of the face layout template and instructions on how to print it to scale, if it will help, the second link has some of my observations and methods I used when building mine.
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods! | Page 114 | E-Cigarette Forum
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods! | Page 114 | E-Cigarette Forum

I found the easiest way (for me) to file the screen opening was to ink the face of the box with a magic marker, make my layout lines, drill a few holes to get the files started then with a round file, push a file to each corner, then with a flat file bring the edges down to the lines and to the corners. Once I got about .005 away from the lines, I changed to a fine file and slowed way down, at the last .001 I would take one or two strokes, pull the box from the vice and stare at it, your eye will pick up the tiniest flaw. The layout lines were only a guide, I let my eye and calipers determine when the opening was as good as I would get it.

To draw my layout lines, first I measured the width of the box with the lid on and divided the number to layout the center line (one of the templates in the pdf file has center lines which was handy). Once the face was inked I set that number on my calipers then locked the jaws. I used the inside (movable jaw) to slide along the edge of the box and the tip of the other jaw as a scribe to make my layout line, like the the pic below. Once I had the center line I took the lid off, measured the opening for the screen and calculated where to draw a line for each side of the screen and the top and bottom. Because of the rounded corners of the box you have to tilt the calipers a bit and that will throw off the lines a little but as I stated the lines were only a guide.

 

[SlickWilly]

Oh, one other thing I'll add, any other mods I make for the 200 I'll drop the screen opening lower on the face. Going by the template in the pdf file, the screen ribbon has to be bent to keep it away from the fire button. I had to put folds in my ribbons and I really don't like doing that, lowering the position of the screen will only help with that issue.

 

[Phone Guy]

Ahh my newest creation. Dual 18650 dna200 in a billet Hammond 1550p sized box.

Great job. If love to hear the details and any additional build photos. I have a new untouched powder coated 1550p waiting to be something

 

[bilboda]

Creases in ribbon cable are not a good thing. I have a ticket for a new screen right now. There just isn't a lot of space between the buttons for the screen to exist without a crease. The solution I see is to have the screen at least 1/2 inch off the board when folded. You would have to adjust the stand offs, button depth and mod depth for the battery. Screens are my bugaboo with these chips. A solution would be a frame for the screen attached to the chip. A total frame for the chip and screen to attach to the mod walls would be nice. This would keep everything stable. DNA40 too.
In the mod that I am building, It didn't dawn on me until too late that extending the stand off length would have solved my screen and button depth issues. I can add filler to the buttons that I have filed down and extend the standoffs somehow, so I can set the screen and not have to crease the cable. I hope the battery will still fit

 

[awsum140]

For standoffs for the board go to a hobby shop and get some 1/8" OD polystyrene tubing. Can be easily cut with a razor blade and the internal diameter is perfect for "0" sized screws. Plus, it's easy to work, file, to adjust lengths to a perfect match.

 

[Pdizzle]

So I still can't figure out how to secure the screen and board inside the Blueridgedog enclosure with everything soldered

 

[Vince159]

Yeah there is a problem somewhere, I would disconnect the battery ASAP and leave it unhooked until you get ready to work on it. Check to make sure you have the balance wires connected correctly. Did you solder the balance wires to the board? If you soldered the jts balance connector to the board make sure it's on the right way. If you don't spot a problem with the soldered connections then you'll need to check the battery. If you have a digital volt meter check the voltage at the two main leads from the battery and also the readings at the balance wires and see what readings you get. If you can take some good pics and post them here that would help, the guys will help you out and walk you through what to check if you need help with it.

Yeah, I know I got the balance connector right, (3 is pos right?) I don't have a very good feeling about this battery at this point. Time to contact Hobbyking.

 

[Vince159]

Can you post an image of your balance charger connection? The battery end and the connection to the chip. It cold be that the balance charger is backwards. Or, that your pack is a dud. Do you have another to try?

Well, I don't believe I have the balance charger backwards, I double checked. I wish I had an extra pack, but I only bought the one. I'm finding I could have planned ahead and bought 2. I think the battery pack is no good. Thanks BRD.

 

[tomr1088]

Well, I don't believe I have the balance charger backwards, I double checked. I wish I had an extra pack, but I only bought the one. I'm finding I could have planned ahead and bought 2. I think the battery pack is no good. Thanks BRD.

Did u measure the pack voltage with a meter?

 

[KTMRider]

thanks Willy, when I plug in the batt it says check battery, and the screen only activates when I push the fire button. When I plug in the usb the screen stays on. on device monitor it says 0.00 on everything down to usb voltage. individual cells say 1= 0.09, 2= 0.67, 3= 3.19. When ever I press the fire button it says check battery. I believe I've got some problems in my soldering somewhere.

Definitely not normal. Do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)? Can you check the battery out of the mod? I would check the soldering on the balance port. Can you take pics of the port from both sides?

So I still can't figure out how to secure the screen and board inside the Blueridgedog enclosure with everything soldered

I used electrical tape and a piece of closed cell foam between the screen and board.

Well, I don't believe I have the balance charger backwards, I double checked. I wish I had an extra pack, but I only bought the one. I'm finding I could have planned ahead and bought 2. I think the battery pack is no good. Thanks BRD.

Post a pic. A lipo battery pack shouldn't show a cell at 0.xxv, let alone 2 cells. I would guess it's your port soldering or you might've knocked off some resistors which is why I'm asking for pics.

 

[bilboda]

I don't know what BRD mod you are using, pdizzle. I am using the original, I think, with the 1000 mah Turnigy.
The existing standoffs bring the chip too close to the front face for anything but a creased cable After attaching the board the buttons were solid, the onboards fully depressed. I sanded down the buttons a lot, at most 1/5 remaining in the fat part. God what a relief I felt when I reattatched the board, had working buttons and a flush screen. Problem is I creased that screen once too often while fitting and it stopped working. Evolv just notified me they are sending a free new screen, doltage protection is also built in I guess. I will extend the standoffs

For standoffs for the board go to a hobby shop and get some 1/8" OD polystyrene tubing. Can be easily cut with a razor blade and the internal diameter is perfect for "0" sized screws. Plus, it's easy to work, file, to adjust lengths to a perfect match.

and add material to replace the material I sanded off the buttons. I want the cable to look like this ], not this >