Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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BlueridgeDog what steps did you take before lowering the board down to screw it it
Right now I've got the screen attached and ground and 510 connected
with those connected I don't have enough room to tape the screen to the enclosure so that I can lower the board into place
Right now I've got the screen attached and ground and 510 connected
with those connected I don't have enough room to tape the screen to the enclosure so that I can lower the board into place
When mine comes in, my plan is to eyeball it and attach the screen to the board, not the enclosure, with foam and tape between. I will make far enough off the board so the cable doesn't have to be creased and doesn't interfere. As soon as I have that lined up. I'll use doublesided tape with the foam to secure it. Then I will adjust the standoffs and the buttons to fit. I nay have to shave some off the lipo to get the back cover on 
j/k. I'll cross that bridge if I come to it.
j/k. I'll cross that bridge if I come to it.
That sounds like the same thing here, but I soldered the positive to #3 on the board, which was my understanding. I soldered them in with the connector going into the back of the board, very carefully, and they look good to me. I've got pack voltage 3.82v
No, I attached it to the board, put a piece of tape on it to hold it in place on the enclosure, then I put a piece of padding between the board and the screen. I'm going to test the batt with the multi meter. I'm having a little trouble with my camera, I'll try to post pics soon. Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
I get 7.39 on the multi meter.
I did it this way....
Basically I put tape on the back side of the screen, positioned it, then smoothed it out with a tool of sorts, then laid the board in.
Evolv has since stated that they have used tape to pull the ribbon cable down so it stays out of the way of the fire button.
Finally got a working DNA200 mod THANKS TO @Steamer861 !!!!
Sprayed it with a matte finish Rustoleum clear protectant, several coats, let it set and air dry in the Texas heat. Took a couple of hours. I had to sand the round radius of each button to make them slide in/out of the holes on the faceplate. Then I had to sand the bottoms of each button to prevent auto pressing of the onboard DNA200 buttons when the board was finally screwed down tight. I used a black sharpie marker to re-color the sides of the buttons because when I sanded them, they got white "grain" scratches... I did the same for the button holes on the faceplate because when I spray coated the enclosure I mistakenly didn't put anything inside the holes to keep the paint out of them, so they needed a little clean out (sanding with a dremel stone but done by hand no machine). But the end result is no white markings that I can see.
Screen placement was slightly challenging but do-able, but here's what I did, I attached the screen to the board after I soldering the balance port on, I cut a piece of the pink anti static foam from the DNA200 box, layed the screen in the guides of the case (amazingly accurate placement btw! great job @BlueridgeDog ) then used the foam between the board and the screen just to keep pressure on it and keep it in place, no glue or tape.
I used a flat top FDV v4 spring loaded 510, 14g copper wire on the 510 which is stranded but incredibly stiff... more flexible wire might have made it easier? I don't really know. This wire I used is plastic jacket, for electrical use, I wouldn't recommend it (or use it again)... in the end, when I cut the silicone wire leads from the battery, there was plenty left over (red/black) that could have been used for the 510 -- Just FYI.
I have a couple area's of accumulated clear spray on the edges where I obviously over coated and it dripped down and settled.. its a little "milky" right now, but they may turn clear after a few days? they may not. In the end, if I wanted it to be perfect, I'm assuming I could have wet sanded it (or at least those areas) and re-sprayed those sides, but I think only one who knows they are there is ME, so I can live with it.
@BlueridgeDog, the design of this box is very nice, my only assessment is the 90 degree angles on the back... if those were rounded it would "feel" much more comfortable in the hand. I'm not a fan of the hard sharp 90 degree angles.
This enclosure and battery (Gens Ace 1300mah) fit's well, I originally thought a large capacity (taller) battery might fit too...but I'm not familiar enough with Lipo's or LiFePo's to know personally. But there seems to me a taller battery might fill the rear of the box and offer slightly more Wh ? but again, I'm no designer.
I would also like to point out how impressed I am with the overall design and print quality of this box, printed at Sculpteo in polished finish, with the exception of sanding the buttons, it was painless. The battery door locking with the clip was brilliant, and REALLY WORKS!! I can't take it off without prying the bottom end up a bit - so two thumbs way up on the design @BlueridgeDog
Here are my pictures.... (AGAIN HUGE THANKS TO @Steamer861 WITHOUT HIM, THIS WOULD STILL BE SITTING IN THE DRAWER)
(that mark is a melted spot when I wasn't watching my iron close enough while attaching the 510 wire to the board)
Last quick note on the FDV v4 510, this is the second one I used, and the brass nut that holds the spring ALWAYS comes off (has happened on 2 different v4) and I have to solder weld them back on. Next time I buy 510 I'll get try the Varitube, I've read they're better. And thanks to @turbocad6 for assisting me on the evolv forum with the balance port polarity question I had. THANKS EVERYONE!
Sprayed it with a matte finish Rustoleum clear protectant, several coats, let it set and air dry in the Texas heat. Took a couple of hours. I had to sand the round radius of each button to make them slide in/out of the holes on the faceplate. Then I had to sand the bottoms of each button to prevent auto pressing of the onboard DNA200 buttons when the board was finally screwed down tight. I used a black sharpie marker to re-color the sides of the buttons because when I sanded them, they got white "grain" scratches... I did the same for the button holes on the faceplate because when I spray coated the enclosure I mistakenly didn't put anything inside the holes to keep the paint out of them, so they needed a little clean out (sanding with a dremel stone but done by hand no machine). But the end result is no white markings that I can see.
Screen placement was slightly challenging but do-able, but here's what I did, I attached the screen to the board after I soldering the balance port on, I cut a piece of the pink anti static foam from the DNA200 box, layed the screen in the guides of the case (amazingly accurate placement btw! great job @BlueridgeDog ) then used the foam between the board and the screen just to keep pressure on it and keep it in place, no glue or tape.
I used a flat top FDV v4 spring loaded 510, 14g copper wire on the 510 which is stranded but incredibly stiff... more flexible wire might have made it easier? I don't really know. This wire I used is plastic jacket, for electrical use, I wouldn't recommend it (or use it again)... in the end, when I cut the silicone wire leads from the battery, there was plenty left over (red/black) that could have been used for the 510 -- Just FYI.
I have a couple area's of accumulated clear spray on the edges where I obviously over coated and it dripped down and settled.. its a little "milky" right now, but they may turn clear after a few days? they may not. In the end, if I wanted it to be perfect, I'm assuming I could have wet sanded it (or at least those areas) and re-sprayed those sides, but I think only one who knows they are there is ME, so I can live with it.
@BlueridgeDog, the design of this box is very nice, my only assessment is the 90 degree angles on the back... if those were rounded it would "feel" much more comfortable in the hand. I'm not a fan of the hard sharp 90 degree angles.
This enclosure and battery (Gens Ace 1300mah) fit's well, I originally thought a large capacity (taller) battery might fit too...but I'm not familiar enough with Lipo's or LiFePo's to know personally. But there seems to me a taller battery might fill the rear of the box and offer slightly more Wh ? but again, I'm no designer.
I would also like to point out how impressed I am with the overall design and print quality of this box, printed at Sculpteo in polished finish, with the exception of sanding the buttons, it was painless. The battery door locking with the clip was brilliant, and REALLY WORKS!! I can't take it off without prying the bottom end up a bit - so two thumbs way up on the design @BlueridgeDog
Here are my pictures.... (AGAIN HUGE THANKS TO @Steamer861 WITHOUT HIM, THIS WOULD STILL BE SITTING IN THE DRAWER)
(that mark is a melted spot when I wasn't watching my iron close enough while attaching the 510 wire to the board)
Last quick note on the FDV v4 510, this is the second one I used, and the brass nut that holds the spring ALWAYS comes off (has happened on 2 different v4) and I have to solder weld them back on. Next time I buy 510 I'll get try the Varitube, I've read they're better. And thanks to @turbocad6 for assisting me on the evolv forum with the balance port polarity question I had. THANKS EVERYONE!
Phone Guy, that's looking good! I like that matte finish, good job! Yeah that standard wire with thicker strands and a harder jacket is tough to work with in tight spots, that's where the silicone wire comes in handy. Not only is the silicone insulated jacket flexible but the fine strands of the wire let it flex a lot as well. The last mod I built, the 1950A, I used 12 ga silicone wire for the 510 because I wanted it to be what Evolv recommended even though I'll never push the mod to it's limits, I don't think I'll use 12 again....
Mike, When you had the beta mod apart, could you tell what ga wire they used for the 510?
Mike, When you had the beta mod apart, could you tell what ga wire they used for the 510?
So I finally got one complete. Having small issues like power shutting off when moving the battery and error message imbalanced battery. Where should I start here. Re solder the positive and negative? Check my balance connector works?
Depending on how I hold the battery in place it fires fine without an issue
Depending on how I hold the battery in place it fires fine without an issue
I believe evolv used 14 gauge in the beta if that's what u mean although the recommended on the data sheet is 14 gauge silicone insulated with 16 gauge lowest and 12 max. Battery input can be as low as 20 gauge tho.
It looked like 14g silicone to me.
Love that mod! Can't wait to see what you get from the machine shop!
Same here. I ordered a beta reference 3D print from Sculpteo using the files Evolv provided, and the Fully Max battery from Evolv. The form factor seems NICE. I can't wait until @mikepetro gets the metal boxes and starts the coop for them!
I am so down with buying a 1300mah version of the reference case. That would be perfect. Idk why that hasn't been done sooner I was about to have a machine shop do the same if someone else didn't.
I recommend posting an image of the solder job on the -+ and balance taps. Something is off. Did you put on plugs? It may sound crude...but wiggle till you find it.
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