Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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Interesting though "powered by IW200TC-VO1 mini processor which provide intelligence power regulation. It supports almost all kinds of exist wires"
Ratza frana kravits!
So, I glued the battery tube into position with some silicon seal I had hanging around in the basement, a DAP product. I did that this morning at about 6:30 or 7:00. It still hasn't set solid. So now it's sitting on top of my big desktop tower machine that runs folding@home, 24/7, and keeps the house warm in the winter. Maybe the added gentle heat will help get that silicon to set by tomorrow morning (I hope!).
"all kinds of exist wires". Must be some new, fancy (reverse engineered) technology. I'll stick with the original.
So, I glued the battery tube into position with some silicon seal I had hanging around in the basement, a DAP product. I did that this morning at about 6:30 or 7:00. It still hasn't set solid. So now it's sitting on top of my big desktop tower machine that runs folding@home, 24/7, and keeps the house warm in the winter. Maybe the added gentle heat will help get that silicon to set by tomorrow morning (I hope!).
"all kinds of exist wires". Must be some new, fancy (reverse engineered) technology. I'll stick with the original.
I think it cures based on moisture or humidity (and also heat and UV light according to Google). It might need more humidity if you're running the A/C.
I searched IW200TC-VO1 and found this facebook page that says the board is used in a IJOY Asolo
Then I found a link to the board from an Asolo on youtube showing how it works in temp control mode with kanthal, see how well it does at the 1:45 mark.
Well, if it needs humidity it was in the basement and the humidity down there is much higher than up here in the AC. It seems to be firming up much better with the heat and air from the fans in the PC. Maybe tomorrow....please?
I did it the same way, except I used two small flat tip screwdrivers on the bottom to pry up without marking up the finish, then pried down from the top after the "bump" was cleared on the bottom.
Vaping Mall has a self branded DNA200, a converted Hammond box
www.vapingmall.com/vm-dna-204
That's a 1590A box, the box I used for my second mod. I see they were careful to get photos that hide the lean from Hammond boxes, I can tell they haven't straighten the sides and I see it mention in the reviews. Also interesting that there is no screws in the face, wonder how they are holding the board inside the box, wish they had pics of the inside of one. Also interesting all the reviews are happy with the price.....
Willy, JB weld is your friend. I'm using a set of rails and guides inside my Hammond to hold a sled for the board that will also separate the electronics section from the battery section. I'll take a shot, later today, of the low tank as I'm assembling it which will show the same type of rail system.
I bet that's what they did, but I have to wonder if it looks like some of the mods from China, stuffed with an entire glue stick worth of hot glue.
Oh yeah, I love JB Weld, I always have a few tubes floating around here. I don't care much for the fast set stuff, it's not as strong as the slow cure but I do use it once in a while if the job doesn't need a lot of strength. I love that you can drill, sand and file it, and it's so strong! Good stuff!
In the low tank mod I cut two 1/8x1/8x5/16 cleats to hold the top of the battery contact/board sled. JB welded them in, then drilled and tapped them after the JB set. Held like a champ! All the metal is aluminum and I scuffed the heck out of it first with 60 grit, then wiped it with lacquer thinner before putting the JB on. The same process was used for the sled rails and they're 3/16 brass angle stock. If I had it to da again, I'd drill some holes through the angle stock on the side that contacts the enclosure to let the JB wrap around it. Probably not needed, but a better idea in retrospect.
as crappy as hotglue is, truth is it does the job and is better than having it bolted down but shorting out like the opus's 
same goes for trying to glue tiny standoffs that may pop off on an impact. with a powerful lipo on board you have to consider what can happen if you drop it, imagine dropping it and then it starts to heat up and emit smoke... not good, although hotglue is kinda crappy truth is it may do the actual job better than many other more flimsy methods even though they may "look" better.
same goes for trying to glue tiny standoffs that may pop off on an impact. with a powerful lipo on board you have to consider what can happen if you drop it, imagine dropping it and then it starts to heat up and emit smoke... not good, although hotglue is kinda crappy truth is it may do the actual job better than many other more flimsy methods even though they may "look" better.
We use JB Weld in the shop when we are making a prototype part and things go wrong. It's fully machinable, and we can use the part to check dimensions.
So I suppose an artist could mold and sculpt a mod from jb weld if it is not too brittle, maybe over a wire mesh cage, eyes and nose for buttons, mouth for usb, hat for 510, etc ......oh the possibilities......
as crappy as hotglue is, truth is it does the job and is better than having it bolted down but shorting out like the opus's
same goes for trying to glue tiny standoffs that may pop off on an impact. with a powerful lipo on board you have to consider what can happen if you drop it, imagine dropping it and then it starts to heat up and emit smoke... not good, although hotglue is kinda crappy truth is it may do the actual job better than many other more flimsy methods even though they may "look" better.
I have nothing against hot glue and I have used it when I put DNA40 boards in my ZNA and Hana clones, it does work well. Difference is I try to be neat with it and some of the mods I have seen were just a mess and had way more glue then needed. The last Hana box clone I bought, the side with the chip was almost completely filled with hot glue, there was very little open voids that was not glue. As far as being stronger, no hot glue will ever hold as well as JB Weld, it has holding strength of 3960 PSI and withstands temperatures up to 550ºF J-B Weld Twin Tube | J-B Weld
During the time I worked as a mechanic, my buddy who worked in the parts dept asked me to replace the blown head gasket on his old Dodge minivan, when I pulled the head I found it had run a long time with the head gasket blown between #1 & #2 cylinders and had flame cut the deck of the block eroding a grove about .015 deep and .030 wide. I told him the correct fix would be to pull the block and have the deck re-machined, knowing he probably didn't want to put that kind of money into an older vehicle I told him I could try cleaning the grove, fill it with JB Weld and file it level but I couldn't promise it would hold, he chose to have me use the JB Weld. I know he was still driving the vehicle daily two years later, I lost touch with him after that. I would never offer a customer that option, but on my own vehicle or a friends, yes I would. JB is good stuff.
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