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I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on one of these, and in perusing this thread it seems there are subtle differences- pins, engravings, etc- between the versions certain vendors have. Would the older one from DV be better (at least i assume it's older, as he's had them in stock for a good while)? Or the newer one from MOV/SVC? (all I care about is functionality, and this would be primarily for my Term-C's and soon-to-be-incoming Ithaka)
I'm also a little confused; I ordered a couple of the GG Oddy bases for my Terms as I thought I had read in here that they would work on the MKB's collector tanks, but MOV's description explicitly says they will not (and then add DW's problem from above). Should I be on the prowl for a GG Colector tank as well? (since I've pretty much given up on getting a full GGTS) Or does the base work on some of the units?
I'm also a little confused; I ordered a couple of the GG Oddy bases for my Terms as I thought I had read in here that they would work on the MKB's collector tanks, but MOV's description explicitly says they will not (and then add DW's problem from above). Should I be on the prowl for a GG Colector tank as well? (since I've pretty much given up on getting a full GGTS) Or does the base work on some of the units?
It would be nice if Rainbow would issue correction parts when they mess up, BEFORE moving on to new ventures. The pattern I'm seeing is a lot of nicely machined parts that look all good in a photo, but China repeatedly undercuts the electricals, moving parts, and O-rings. It's always a little thing you can't see in the pictures - as beautiful as the MKB is, when the switch burns you finger there's nothing pretty. We were lucky to have found a solution, but imagine what our MKB's would be doing now if we couldn't fix that.
I'll be enjoying my MKB for years to come, but having to "fix" it first after parting w/ $100 didn't sit well with me. When I look at the Rainbow Hybrid I see a device with even more complication than the MKB - in areas China currently DOES NOT excel at building; electricals, and juice containment. I would think twice about Chinese hybrids because if it's a leaky little ....... you'll find yourself chucking the entire Mod. If I could throw money on a bet right now, I'd say that Hybrid will have at least one totally annoying flaw built-in, especially if they're able to crank out 500 a week! What kind of QA is even possible at that rate?
What I see in those pictures is a ton of shorting when juice starts getting all over the place.
I wish I new how many MKB's are in circulation - one could probably write up a good business plan on selling just a better switch as an upgrade to existing MKB owners. I'm already tossing around the idea of contacting a plastic shop to price out a small run of improved insulators to accommodate a better electrical at the 510 connection. I just can't describe how great my 6-32 telescoping center pole has been working out for me.
Sorry to poo poo some "affordable" merch, it's just that my MKB experience has me looking elsewhere - and so does China's public health policies.
I'll be enjoying my MKB for years to come, but having to "fix" it first after parting w/ $100 didn't sit well with me. When I look at the Rainbow Hybrid I see a device with even more complication than the MKB - in areas China currently DOES NOT excel at building; electricals, and juice containment. I would think twice about Chinese hybrids because if it's a leaky little ....... you'll find yourself chucking the entire Mod. If I could throw money on a bet right now, I'd say that Hybrid will have at least one totally annoying flaw built-in, especially if they're able to crank out 500 a week! What kind of QA is even possible at that rate?
What I see in those pictures is a ton of shorting when juice starts getting all over the place.
I wish I new how many MKB's are in circulation - one could probably write up a good business plan on selling just a better switch as an upgrade to existing MKB owners. I'm already tossing around the idea of contacting a plastic shop to price out a small run of improved insulators to accommodate a better electrical at the 510 connection. I just can't describe how great my 6-32 telescoping center pole has been working out for me.
Sorry to poo poo some "affordable" merch, it's just that my MKB experience has me looking elsewhere - and so does China's public health policies.
Ordered my mkb ts last Wednesday from MOV. Wish I would have seen this thread before now. I feel like I could have saved a lot of people some money. They are killing it over there with their prices. Thanks about the tip about the gg base too. Nice find!
Sorry to go off way off topic... but this has to do with the manufacturer of the MKB. Has anyone seen RainbowHeaven's latest endeavor? Its called the Hybrid Elite. It appears to be gearing up for competition with the IHybrid Fusion... No US based retailers yet.
Alibaba Manufacturer Directory - Suppliers, Manufacturers, Exporters & Importers
Someone who knows a vendor should ask them to pick a couple of those up. I would buy for sure. Props to RainbowHeaven for being on the leading edge of clones lol.
I purchased my MKB at Stormy's & my genuine Oddy bases are smooth threading onto the MKB collector tank. If I were to buy a 2nd MKB, I'd go with Eric because the price is better. In either case, be versed in the return or exchange policies of chosen vendor as it's entirely possible to get a lemon on these depending on your modding confidence.
My MKB-TS was purchased at DV.. The Oddy / GGTS adapter threads on fine..
If I were to pick another MKB-TS up, I would get it for $59.99 here: MOV MKB-TS (GGTS Clone) I used a coupon last time I ordered from there, but can't remember what it was...
I agree upsetter21... there are a few clone models that are getting closer to what vapers want, but as we know "the right stuff" is a complex thing. Hell even high end models have shortcomings... that said, I do intend to follow the upward curve coming from China, but at the same time, for someone that doesn't want to play "modder", it pays to have well made high end units with good QC and CS...
I for one would purchase one of these insulators and I'm sure everyone who owns one would too! The stock one does leak slightly every now and then when dripping into a 510 arty or carto and the collector tank fills up a bit. Been trying to find a suitable o-ring to chick in there.
I just got
Myself an oddy base for mine an it threads perfectly and seals tightly without any o-ring added, just waiting on my terminator c to arrive!
I just got
Myself an oddy base for mine an it threads perfectly and seals tightly without any o-ring added, just waiting on my terminator c to arrive!
I agree that there is definitely improvements to be made with the mkb and it looks like they are trying (and failing in some aspects). However, I think that with a hybrid device with a bottom button would potentially be more reliable than any other mech from china. Think about it, a hybrid has less connections (the atomizer housing is fixed to the battery tube rather than a 510). Because of that there would be less possible points of failure. They have already proven they can make a decent genny... Idk I guess I'm optimistic.
The coupon code at MOV is "JUNESAVE", it gets you 10% off but only can be used one time, that brought my MKB down to $53 before shipping. Also it came with a 510 shorty and an Ego adapter.
Sig8 improved with brass top caps, EA clone with brass... 2 more current co ops ... better for me because no collector tank... getting good reports.
Wonder if they will go up on vendors sites...
(Sigelei is pretty easy to set up a buy and apparantley willing to customize - eliminate plated contacts)
Wonder if they will go up on vendors sites...
(Sigelei is pretty easy to set up a buy and apparantley willing to customize - eliminate plated contacts)
I bought my MKB from SVC, and I have two gg oddy bases....and both work with it. I have had 0 issues, other than initial thread problems on a second hand base. Once I fixed the threads, it goes in and off smooth as butter.
So I would say for fact, it will work with the MKB from SVC.
I ended up modding my connector with a Teflon sleeve, and hefty brass pin from an old mod. I have seen no leaks.
I like the fact that these can be modded to our personal liking.. I have had no need to shim the switch. I just adjusted the throw, tightened it up, sanded the end of the pin, and it works fine.
The Oddy / GGTS connector really makes the air-control shine with the Terminator (C).. Here's a pic with the GGTS connecter installed on the Terminator C: (MKB-TS in 18500 mode with collector tank)
Care to share the details of the Teflon sleeve?
I ended up modding my connector with a Teflon sleeve, and hefty brass pin from an old mod. I have seen no leaks.
I like the fact that these can be modded to our personal liking.. I have had no need to shim the switch. I just adjusted the throw, tightened it up, sanded the end of the pin, and it works fine.
Here's a pic with the GGTS connecter installed on the Terminator C: (MKB-TS in 18500 mode with collector tank)
I have an old Steampunk Sparkplug mod and extra top cap that I robbed the sleeves and brass pins from. The sleeve is just a short piece of Teflon tubing which fits snugly into the 510 connector from the bottom. The pin rides tightly enough in it to prevent leaking.
$320 on the left, $101 on the right (battery's not included)
MKB collector tank is back on the new on, it's the very beginning of the top thread that causing interference for those looking to fix it as one would assume the problem would be about 3 threads down.
I can't tell any difference in performance between the two mods but the Terminator has much better flavor and just why that is I can't figure and I've been trying.
That picture made them look so bad that there was no way I was going hi res on that image.
MKB collector tank is back on the new on, it's the very beginning of the top thread that causing interference for those looking to fix it as one would assume the problem would be about 3 threads down.
I can't tell any difference in performance between the two mods but the Terminator has much better flavor and just why that is I can't figure and I've been trying.
That picture made them look so bad that there was no way I was going hi res on that image.
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OK i guess the way i fire this thing from all angles, using my palm a lot it gets to twisting things ....?
But today it happened again; continous firing... Help!
The button seemed a bit looser.
I took the atty off, took the batt out, and upon replacing batt, and putting an inline meter on...
when i tighten the tele down how i like it, snug, it fires.... it fires if snug!
Also for sone reason the button gets a lot of play and its a hair trigger in this stage.
any suggestions?
will the shim help keep the button distended? because the slightest 1mm touch will fire it.
But today it happened again; continous firing... Help!
The button seemed a bit looser.
I took the atty off, took the batt out, and upon replacing batt, and putting an inline meter on...
when i tighten the tele down how i like it, snug, it fires.... it fires if snug!
Also for sone reason the button gets a lot of play and its a hair trigger in this stage.
any suggestions?
will the shim help keep the button distended? because the slightest 1mm touch will fire it.
I guess what happens is somehow the button gets loose off the firing pin somehow from how i fire it with my palm or pinkie or whatever. it twists....
so now i just took off the 2 knurled nuts and fire it sort of stripped down... it works fine, and of course i won't be able to take it anywhere due to no locking mech.
oh well, i'm relieved anyway.
so now i just took off the 2 knurled nuts and fire it sort of stripped down... it works fine, and of course i won't be able to take it anywhere due to no locking mech.
oh well, i'm relieved anyway.
I use a couple of small box end wrenches to tighten the button to the firing pin, the pin being brass can be easily stripped but I tighten them together pretty tight. Then after getting the switch adjusted into the tube I use a pair of hemostats to lock down the small ring.
Mine has never moved from where I put it.
Mine has never moved from where I put it.
Good advice DW!
This one's going to be a little long (sorry I really want to help)...
and should only be considered if you are 100% sure you are not shorting at the atty connection or inside your atty...
ukeman, you're describing a very similar experience as my first week with the MKB. My button was unscrewing from use. More specifically the two parts that make the button post were separating; the steal (outer) button and the brass firing pin (inner). Sometimes I would be unaware of this, and the brass firing pin would start dancing dangerously close to the bottom of the battery and the axis causing inadvertent firing.
This is when I got into loctite. Allow me to first warn you loctite is not a toy! It can seriously bind up some parts and should be used EXTREMELY sparingly. Considering what you're describing, I think you need some too. However, I suggest you work the loctite when you are ready to shim.
Hopefully you will have enough brass sheet to cut a few diff shims, and then choose which fits best after experimenting - it is important that your shim is entirely flat when you roll it - no corners turning in - nice clean cuts. Get totally acquainted with how everything fits together, and various positions of all the parts affect the overall feel of the sw operation. Even practice removing and installing it, as it's a little challenging to grip it all when its apart but after a few trials it gets easier to follow an order of operations.
So once your happy with a shim and your hands are steady...
Hopefully this will be the last time you'll need to disassemble the sw for a long time. Conjuring some finesse you should be able to place a single drop of BLUE (medium strength) loctite on the brass firing pin before final assembly - even if it appears the loctite went away after a single drop, it's there - it will foam up inside over the following 24hrs. Loctite expands.
After getting all the parts in a happy position leave the mod alone for 24hrs. You're button will not separate again, and you will need box-ends as DW mentioned in order to take it apart again... you'll likely not need to apply more loctite, if disassembled, ever again as the residue will be around and even dry loctite will hold when re-assembled.
Some tips on positioning the lock rings: I found that the switch "travel" is most correct when the body of the sw is screwed into the MKB up to the point where both rings flush to the top of the threaded switch body. This positions the firing pin correctly, and sets the travel for the "on/off" lock ring to be a short action as it should be. The "set" lock ring should be tight to the MKB with decent force - hemostats.
The amount you thread the firing pin into the button determines the throw. I like a really short throw - I'm a palmer also - I have about 1mm of travel - my pin & button are screwed together almost entirely. Again you should know where YOU want it BEFORE opening the bottle of loctite; because it's likely to feel loose when you assemble it for keeps, even with loctite, until it dries. So you may end up just kind of putting it in the right spot without being able to test until dry.
I also applied a single drop of loctite inside the MKB on the threads of the sw body just so there's a little something there to slow it down and prevent total loss, in case it ever became loose. Strange things happen, especially on motorcycles. I say this because anyone who's owned one knows all about the mysteriously unscrewing objects due to vibration. Point being, your mod is in motion so fasten and fasten some more.
Another word on the importance of shimming when loctiting: The loctite is not conductive, so unfortunately it reduces conductivity between the firing pin and the steel button. Fortunately the brass shim will bridge this connection. So one must perform the shim if loctite is used. For this same reason it is important, if you choose to loctite inside also, that you don't loctite the switch body directly to the MKB so as not to insulate the entire switch - simply a drop at the end of the threading where there is no contact is what should happen (toward the axis).
Hope it helps.
This one's going to be a little long (sorry I really want to help)...
and should only be considered if you are 100% sure you are not shorting at the atty connection or inside your atty...
ukeman, you're describing a very similar experience as my first week with the MKB. My button was unscrewing from use. More specifically the two parts that make the button post were separating; the steal (outer) button and the brass firing pin (inner). Sometimes I would be unaware of this, and the brass firing pin would start dancing dangerously close to the bottom of the battery and the axis causing inadvertent firing.
This is when I got into loctite. Allow me to first warn you loctite is not a toy! It can seriously bind up some parts and should be used EXTREMELY sparingly. Considering what you're describing, I think you need some too. However, I suggest you work the loctite when you are ready to shim.
Hopefully you will have enough brass sheet to cut a few diff shims, and then choose which fits best after experimenting - it is important that your shim is entirely flat when you roll it - no corners turning in - nice clean cuts. Get totally acquainted with how everything fits together, and various positions of all the parts affect the overall feel of the sw operation. Even practice removing and installing it, as it's a little challenging to grip it all when its apart but after a few trials it gets easier to follow an order of operations.
So once your happy with a shim and your hands are steady...
Hopefully this will be the last time you'll need to disassemble the sw for a long time. Conjuring some finesse you should be able to place a single drop of BLUE (medium strength) loctite on the brass firing pin before final assembly - even if it appears the loctite went away after a single drop, it's there - it will foam up inside over the following 24hrs. Loctite expands.
After getting all the parts in a happy position leave the mod alone for 24hrs. You're button will not separate again, and you will need box-ends as DW mentioned in order to take it apart again... you'll likely not need to apply more loctite, if disassembled, ever again as the residue will be around and even dry loctite will hold when re-assembled.
Some tips on positioning the lock rings: I found that the switch "travel" is most correct when the body of the sw is screwed into the MKB up to the point where both rings flush to the top of the threaded switch body. This positions the firing pin correctly, and sets the travel for the "on/off" lock ring to be a short action as it should be. The "set" lock ring should be tight to the MKB with decent force - hemostats.
The amount you thread the firing pin into the button determines the throw. I like a really short throw - I'm a palmer also - I have about 1mm of travel - my pin & button are screwed together almost entirely. Again you should know where YOU want it BEFORE opening the bottle of loctite; because it's likely to feel loose when you assemble it for keeps, even with loctite, until it dries. So you may end up just kind of putting it in the right spot without being able to test until dry.
I also applied a single drop of loctite inside the MKB on the threads of the sw body just so there's a little something there to slow it down and prevent total loss, in case it ever became loose. Strange things happen, especially on motorcycles. I say this because anyone who's owned one knows all about the mysteriously unscrewing objects due to vibration. Point being, your mod is in motion so fasten and fasten some more.
Another word on the importance of shimming when loctiting: The loctite is not conductive, so unfortunately it reduces conductivity between the firing pin and the steel button. Fortunately the brass shim will bridge this connection. So one must perform the shim if loctite is used. For this same reason it is important, if you choose to loctite inside also, that you don't loctite the switch body directly to the MKB so as not to insulate the entire switch - simply a drop at the end of the threading where there is no contact is what should happen (toward the axis).
Hope it helps.
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