MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

[ukeman]

Anyone find brass springs?

what about a thick short brass screw? if it would thread into the axis...

 

[mcbender]

Well I got mine running with the hercules. Shimmed the button. vaping wonderfully. I'm gonna look for screws for the bottom post vs a spring.

Now I am having one problem with the device spinning freely on the bottom. Any ideas to tighten those threads up.

Thanks guys loving this thread read all the way through lol

 

[dwcraig1]

Gee I thought I posted this earlier but must have forgot to push the "post" button.
Anyway I noticed a couple days ago that my stock un-shimed switch was getting hot, so I decide to shim it and found the two pieces loose. So I'm thinking how did this get loose when I tightened it so well? Stainless steel and brass getting hot and cold expanding and contracting differently is how. I put in the shim.

So I suppose one should check the tightness of these parts regularly.

 

[mcbender]

really liking this thing

 

[Technonut]

Gee I thought I posted this earlier but must have forgot to push the "post" button.
Anyway I noticed a couple days ago that my stock un-shimed switch was getting hot, so I decide to shim it and found the two pieces loose. So I'm thinking how did this get loose when I tightened it so well? Stainless steel and brass getting hot and cold expanding and contracting differently is how. I put in the shim.

So I suppose one should check the tightness of these parts regularly.

Mine still comes loose once in awhile also... I just tighten it back up, but it's still a PITA. I was thinking about trying to find a small, thin, lock washer to try. The same thing happens on the EA Mod clone I just picked up. I grabbed that for my GF, who took a liking to my genuine EA Mod. It already loosened up for her, and I need to fix it. The genuine EA Mod has a groove cut around the pin held with an E-clip.

 

[mcbender]

Does anyone else's bottom tube move around a lot though?

 

[Technonut]

Does anyone else's bottom tube move around a lot though?

On the MKB-TS, I have to really yank it around to get it to move. My EA Mod has slight movement, as well as the couple of GGTS's I had. It's just the nature of telescopic mods. Try snugging it down more..

 

[Technonut]

As far as the switch goes, I think something like this may work to prevent it coming loose:

Having a larger outside diameter (OD) than "external" and "internal" types, internal-external tooth lock washers are used when a larger bearing surface is needed to optimize an electrical connection or because a hole is oversized or irregular. They are also used as an insert between two adjustable pieces to maintain mechanical alignment and are also called internal-external lock washers and internal-external tooth washers.

Or this one:

Internal tooth lock washers work best with small screw heads, such as fillister, and when the teeth—and the surface marks they create—need to be hidden for appearance reasons. Because the teeth must make contact with the mating surface, do not use with oversized holes. Also referred to as internal lock washers and internal tooth washers.

The trick now, is finding the correct size...

 

[mcbender]

Does anyone else's bottom tube move around easily while vaping?

 

[mcbender]

well a little off topic but i was looking into an o-ring set for my vapes incase something goes down and i came across this Neiko Universal O Ring Assortment Set Metric 419 Pieces | eBay and i just had to order it lol

 

[mcbender]

what about a thick short brass screw? if it would thread into the axis...

that would work awesome... do you know dimensions for screw and where to purchase?

 

[mcbender]

As far as the switch goes, I think something like this may work to prevent it coming loose:

Or this one:

The trick now, is finding the correct size...

im about to take my my switch and bottom cap to the hardware store and see what i cant find out... im sure others have already but ill post what i find out later today

 

[IcyX]

Lol yep, save those pennies, I am! The new gg looks awesome. I'm not super crazy about the new groove in the bottom cap (I like the current bottom cap look) but I can over look that. Now the big decision......brass or ss.


Also speaking of patinas I saw a pic of a poldiac on fb that was treated to give it a beautiful blue green patina. I've been playing around w ammonia and trying to replicate the process w household materials. I'll post a pic when I get it right. If your curious about it friend murdoc ruml and check it out. Absolutely stunning!

Reg. a GG button pin working on the MKB: even if it threads, it is not the correct length. The diameter of the Axis on the MKB is larger than a GG's, so the switches don't have the same travel. The GG pin is longer to reach the smaller axis.

Oh and thanks for telling me you're saving up for a Just GG, IcyX. I had talked myself out of it, and then you brought it up again and that Aug. 20 date keeps getting closer, and I could almost swing it. I'm tempted to sell the Nemesis to fund a new GG since I never really groove with bottom buttons (or 510 connections). Really it's the fact that my current brass GG is of two diff alloys and it throws me that they don't patina the same. I guess one has really arrived as a "serious vaper" when one stops concerning himself with vapor production and starts worrying more about matching metal finishes.

 

[Technonut]

Lol yep, save those pennies, I am! The new gg looks awesome. I'm not super crazy about the new groove in the bottom cap (I like the current bottom cap look) but I can over look that. Now the big decision......brass or ss.


Also speaking of patinas I saw a pic of a poldiac on fb that was treated to give it a beautiful blue green patina. I've been playing around w ammonia and trying to replicate the process w household materials. I'll post a pic when I get it right. If your curious about it friend murdoc ruml and check it out. Absolutely stunning!

I'm just going to buy the Just GG bottom cap / axis, and the collector tank to throw on my MKB-TS...

 

[dwcraig1]

repost
There is no place to put the lock washer, the brass part on the far left screws into the stainless steel part on the far right.

 

[Technonut]

There is no place to put the lock washer

Wouldn't sandwiched between the brass pin and firing button work?

 

[Technonut]

There has to be a way to secure the switch.. A conductive type Loctite if available should work. Or perhaps a piece of thin conductive foil to wrap around the threads like Teflon tape..

EDIT: If I can find a lock washer with inner teeth (like the one I posted a pic of above) the same diameter as the outer SS button, and the inner toothed diameter large enough to just grab the brass pin's threading, the teeth should grab enough to prevent the brass pin from backing out... If needed, one could actually epoxy the washer directly to the SS button. (threaded side) If such a lock washer in the right diameter exists...

I've rebuilt quite a few motorcycle and car engines over the years.. I can't let a small threaded pin backing-out stump me...

 

[ukeman]

there is a post near the last discussion i had about the shimming.... that pic was posted. member (can't remember name) did a long post on how to glue or loctite or something the button to the tube

repost
There is no place to put the lock washer, the brass part on the far left screws into the stainless steel part on the far right.

bottom tube is as stable as any tele type....not an issue. Unless something is wrong, you just have to snug in order:
1. atty to pos post in top cap (oh, i use stealth cap)
2. batt comfortably snug in top tube.
3. balance out botton and top tubes... .snug

don't over snug... you can indent the batt bottom or something bad...

 

[Technonut]

there is a post near the last discussion i had about the shimming.... that pic was posted. member (can't remember name) did a long post on how to glue or loctite or something the button to the tube

bottom tube is as stable as any tele type....not an issue. Unless something is wrong, you just have to snug in order:
1. atty to pos post in top cap (oh, i use stealth cap)
2. batt comfortably snug in top tube.
3. balance out botton and top tubes... .snug

don't over snug... you can indent the batt bottom or something bad...

It's the brass firing pin which threads into the button that's coming loose at times.. I read where someone tried to Loctite it, but the regular stuff is not electrically conductive, and it didn't work. There has to be a solution other than tightening it up on a regular basis..

 

[upsetter21]

"Conductive Glue" exists. I've seen it at radio smack. I've never worked with it tho. I believe it is meant to be a solder alternative.

Some weeks back I detailed the loctite job I did. Since then I cracked the switch open a few times to clean the hand-slime out. So now there is a residue of loctite only; no longer a "bonded" joint since I've separated the pin & button breaking the original bond. The reason I'm bringing this up is to point out two things: I experience no ill effects from the loctite because of the brass shim bridging the circuit. & the loctite residue is my favorite way to keep the switch from unscrewing. It's just enough extra grab to keep things in place, but since it's not "bonded" but rather just a friction maker, I can still unscrew if I have to. I'm thinking one might want to experiment with making a loctite dot on one side of the pin, and letting it dry/cure 100% (24hrs) before threading pieces together. Then the dot will be a little catchy and keep the switch body in tact. Anyone follow me? I'll be doing this to my recently acq'd 2nd MKB. For the record my GG's switch body carries the same annoying trait of sometimes coming loose. I've seen the "Official" GG fix: "just put a plier". Well I've done that and it doesn't last, so loctite for me. It's how my 1st MKB has been for a good while from only one application months ago. I NEVER worry about that switch because it's never shown the auto-unscrew feature since I applied the loctite. That's a little more than my 2 cents. I always re-read my posts & can't help noticing I sound opinion(h)ated. Sorry.