MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

[dwcraig1]

It has it's own post, they are both brass, there should be no difference voltage drop wise between them providing they are both clean.

Heck, I thought for a minute there that maybe Rule62 gave up the Gens and got a Terminator when I first saw his post.


This is without the adapter, used with GGTS connection or Stealth cap

 

[Rule62]

Heck, I thought for a minute there that maybe Rule62 gave up the Gens and got a Terminator when I first saw his post.

Nooooo...not me. 100% Gennys here.

 

[gordong11]

I just got v2 extension delivered, its much better. less voltage drop than the v1, plus the pin is adjustable. worth the effort in getting. I bet a GGTS 510 extension center pin would work in the v2, but I'm only getting a 1.1v drop, 4.08v down to 3.97v. pretty good. I'm not sure yet what the center pin is made of in the v2, but it seems to be performing better than just plain SS, Maybe plated brass? I'll find out and post.

 

[Insanelysick]

V2? Is that floating or screw adjustable?

I just got v2 extension delivered, its much better. less voltage drop than the v1, plus the pin is adjustable. worth the effort in getting. I bet a GGTS 510 extension center pin would work in the v2, but I'm only getting a 1.1v drop, 4.08v down to 3.97v. pretty good. I'm not sure yet what the center pin is made of in the v2, but it seems to be performing better than just plain SS, Maybe plated brass? I'll find out and post.

 

[gordong11]

Floating, the center pin has 2 o-rings just like the GGTS. the V2 extension completes the mod the best. IMHO, better than the v1 fixed post, and better than the stealth top cap. It's nice to be able to use the adjustable airflow with a 100% flush mount, the v2 allows this. This is a great mod, love it, certainly the best clone out there.

http://vapourtrend.com/index.php?op...emart_category_id=2&virtuemart_product_id=103

I'm not sure if the real GGTS extension housing will fit.....I doubt it.

 

[villarino1k]

Is this V1?
Adapter for MKB-TS APV

The one on stormys center pin also goes up and down. What's the difference? Only thing I see is that the other adapter posted is screwed on the outside threads compared to the stormys

 

[gordong11]

Yes its v1, only Vapourtrend has the v2 for sale at this point. Its easy to tell the difference, v1 has exposed theads that fits into the 510 connection, v2 has no exposed threads and fits over the 510 connection.

Is this V1?
Adapter for MKB-TS APV

The one on stormys center pin also goes up and down. What's the difference? Only thing I see is that the other adapter posted is screwed on the outside threads compared to the stormys

 

[upsetter21]

Another MKB compatible, GG aftermarket part... There's hope if you're wearing out 510 threading...

GG Knurled Connector | Silica Wicks

 

[Technonut]

This is getting better and better... I hope SVC will be selling the new adapter soon. I also like the knurled connector (would need the GG adapter for that)...

Just FYI.... I was ...... that I couldn't get my Kick to fit in 18650 mode without having to shorten the stock pin.. I found someone in the classies who wanted to swap his new Crown 2.0 for a Kick the other day. It arrived this morning, and I can now enjoy my choice of steady, regulated, (no PWM) VV or VW with an 18650 in the MKB-TS. NO exposed threads on the tube..

I like steady 6-8 watt vaping with my DIY juices till the battery dies, and so far, I'm really liking the Crown better than the Kick. I'm also pleased that I can hear the Crown's setting tones well enough inside the MKB-TS.

 

[Insanelysick]

Does anyone know the size of the original o-ring that sits here?

Mine came missing a few o-rings and I've yet to find the right size.

 

[dwcraig1]

Another MKB compatible, GG aftermarket part... There's hope if you're wearing out 510 threading...

GG Knurled Connector | Silica Wicks

It says for pre-2012, so are the MKB's pre-2012 clones or after?

 

[dwcraig1]

Does anyone know the size of the original o-ring that sits here?

Mine came missing a few o-rings and I've yet to find the right size.

There is no o-ring on the large threaded part but there are two tiny ones on the brass pin inside the nylon insulator.
Is that an o-ring in the center on the insulator or just a shadow, I see a black circle around the outside of the white insulator.

 

[Insanelysick]

Yeah that's one I added as I was getting some small leakage from the insulator. The pin has the two o-rings. I'm sure I've seen a picture of an mkb-Ts with an o-ring there! Don't the original ggts have an o-ring there too?

 

[dwcraig1]

Yeah that's one I added as I was getting some small leakage from the insulator. The pin has the two o-rings. I'm sure I've seen a picture of an mkb-Ts with an o-ring there! Don't the original ggts have an o-ring there too?

GGTS User Manual - E-Cigarette Wiki

 

[Vince159]

Hey guys, I just got an MKB a couple of days ago. I really like it, for a chinese clone it's very nice machining; nice mod. I tried to run through this thread searching for info on the button heating up, but no luck, and I became impatient, so.. I've got a button heating problem. I started with a thorough cleaning, then noelox on all threading, reassembled and wiped it down really well; removed the steal spring, put on 510/ego and 510/510 (solid) adapters. I worked well for maybe 15 minutes before some minor heat on the button. It persisted, so I took off adapters and the bottom piece, cleaned all connection points with rubbing alcohol, dried well, put it all back together and still heat, in fact more heat. Any suggestions? I'm using aw imr 18650, fully charged.

 

[Insanelysick]

Sounds like a short to me. Chek your atty. I had a carto short out my mkb but work fine on my provari, turne out the cartos insulation was the culprit and the mkb's pin was pushing it to the side causing a hard short.

Hey guys, I just got an MKB a couple of days ago. I really like it, for a chinese clone it's very nice machining; nice mod. I tried to run through this thread searching for info on the button heating up, but no luck, and I became impatient, so.. I've got a button heating problem. I started with a thorough cleaning, then noelox on all threading, reassembled and wiped it down really well; removed the steal spring, put on 510/ego and 510/510 (solid) adapters. I worked well for maybe 15 minutes before some minor heat on the button. It persisted, so I took off adapters and the bottom piece, cleaned all connection points with rubbing alcohol, dried well, put it all back together and still heat, in fact more heat. Any suggestions? I'm using aw imr 18650, fully charged.

 

[c00lkatz]

Hey guys, I just got an MKB a couple of days ago. I really like it, for a chinese clone it's very nice machining; nice mod. I tried to run through this thread searching for info on the button heating up, but no luck, and I became impatient, so.. I've got a button heating problem. I started with a thorough cleaning, then noelox on all threading, reassembled and wiped it down really well; removed the steal spring, put on 510/ego and 510/510 (solid) adapters. I worked well for maybe 15 minutes before some minor heat on the button. It persisted, so I took off adapters and the bottom piece, cleaned all connection points with rubbing alcohol, dried well, put it all back together and still heat, in fact more heat. Any suggestions? I'm using aw imr 18650, fully charged.

I had the same problem. The cause is poor tolerances between the button head and switch body not allowing good contact. Search this thread on how to shim the switch button head to take up the "slop" a few pages back and that will go away. It will make the switch much more reliable too, especially if you use a kick.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the lack of an oring in the gold top cap not allowing airflow control. I installed a terminator top cap/mouthpiece oring there and filed off the air notches of my top 901-510 adapter and got airflow control working in full stock configuration. It's what that aluminum retainer screwed into the gold cap is for, to hold an oring to allow airflow control, much like the top cap of the Terminator. Though I still think the single EGO-510 without the gold cap looks better with a Terminator (thanks for that tip DW).

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

 

[Insanelysick]

That's one I had to add. I believe it was 9mm*1.5ml.
Did anyone's come with the collection tank center post plastic stop o-ring as pictured in tw ggts manual? That's the one I'm missing an dont know the size of.

I had the same problem. The cause is poor tolerances between the button head and switch body not allowing good contact. Search this thread on how to shim the switch button head to take up the "slop" a few pages back and that will go away. It will make the switch much more reliable too, especially if you use a kick.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the lack of an oring in the gold top cap not allowing airflow control. I installed a terminator top cap/mouthpiece oring there and filed off the air notches of my top 901-510 adapter and got airflow control working in full stock configuration. It's what that aluminum retainer screwed into the gold cap is for, to hold an oring to allow airflow control, much like the top cap of the Terminator. Though I still think the single EGO-510 without the gold cap looks better with a Terminator (thanks for that tip DW).

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

 

[c00lkatz]

That's one I had to add. I believe it was 9mm*1.5ml.
Did anyone's come with the collection tank center post plastic stop o-ring as pictured in tw ggts manual? That's the one I'm missing an dont know the size of.

I think #5 is what you're talking about, and no, mine didn't come with one. I only had one tiny o-ring inside the insulator around the center pin, but no o-ring for the plastic insulator itself.

I might be able to come up with a size later tonight when I get home, or if you have some calipers you can measure. I'm sure it's probably 1mm wall thickness.

 

[upsetter21]

My 1st edition MK has only the very tiny O-ring inside the insulator. There is no larger O-ring for the insulator itself. I have found the stock insulator & post rig can leak.

As far as a "hot switch" is concerned, can only be either a short (overcurrent), or too much resistance at the switch (undercurrent). In the first case the switch heats up because a short circuit is drawing too much current and you feel it at the switch because it is the smallest gauge connection in the circuit (other than the short). The second condition is wattage loss at the point of a loose connection.

I was getting all kinds of heat episodes on my switch when I first received this mod. I was chasing down short circuits that didn't exist. After shimming my switch, all my switch problems ended (the slop, the scrape, the heat, the falling apart (+loctite)).

I also added an O-ring to the top-cap assembly of my MKB for better AF control when using cartomizers. Can't tell a size right now - but I used a carto-tank inner O-ring spare, if that helps.