Mod getting hot while charging

[Imfallen_Angel]

Just a mention on these 2A charging circuits in mods (at least those properly built). That is split between the 2 cells, so 1A each. 3 batteries, 660 mA each. Charging an 18650 at 1A should be OK and not decrease battery life by all that much..

This is a series mod, not parallel, so the 2A would be crossing through both batteries. Unless it's built in a way that when charging, there's extra feed wires that splits it in the door to split the input power individually. But then, you couldn't use it while charging if it did that as it would switch it's internal power flow. (unless it's got a very capable charging board, which due to how cheap this mod is price-wise, would be impressive)

 

[mongo74]

Even DJLsb stated that the mod does indeed get very warm during charging, but it has true balanaced charging that he praised, as well as pass through vaping which, with some form of electro wizardry, does not disable charging while vaping.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Even DJLsb stated that the mod does indeed get very warm during charging, but it has true balanaced charging that he praised, as well as pass through vaping which, with some form of electro wizardry, does not disable charging while vaping.

It's possible that the reason it's getting very hot would be that his batteries aren't married or that one might be flawed.

It also depends if the balancing is done via overcharging and draining instead of a closed circuit for each of the batteries which is much better balancing system, but usually a bit more expensive to build, and part of my earlier comment about extra wires is about if it's true balanced charging and not a chipset average assessment.

If it's using the over/discharge approach, the balancing board is working overtime to discharge the better battery while waiting for the flawed one to balance out and that will cause the batteries and internals (the balancing board itself) to get much warmer than most are used to/would expect.

I can't find a "take apart" of this mod, so I can't say which system they put in there.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Just found more info about the mod, (video that actually shows it better and such).

It does have a spring loaded pin that contacts with the door's plate, so I will assume that this it the sensor mechanism to register the first battery, then it assesses the second by the close circuits.

So if it's doing the balanced charging "right", then this pin should be able to provide either a positive or negative feed, so to redirect the power flow to do the balancing per battery, which should shut off when the mod is fired while charging.

So if we assume that the charging is balanced, monitored correctly, etc. then more and more, I'd look at one of the batteries being flawed if the temperature increase while charging is that bad.

 

[MarkyD]

The charging circuit's job is to charge and it will adapt/adjust to the power you give it, and simply block off the extra if you're using an adapter that is over it's set limit.

Again, you're missing the point that current isnt pushed, its drawn, so theres no need to "block off" anything because it takes what it needs. While some charge controllers may be adaptive and not try to more draw current than they should (by monitoring voltage), I wouldnt count on it having that feature or it working well if it does. Charge controllers are typically as cheap as manufacturers can get away with. You'll figure it out when you toast a USB port or hub because it couldnt supply enough current.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Again, you're missing the point that current isnt pushed, its drawn, so theres no need to "block off" anything because it takes what it needs. While some charge controllers may be adaptive and not try to more draw current than they should (by monitoring voltage), I wouldnt count on it having that feature or it working well if it does. Charge controllers are typically as cheap as manufacturers can get away with. You'll figure it out when you toast a USB port or hub because it couldnt supply enough current.

*sigh*...
Power isn't "sucked in/drawn" as you're putting it...or believe it is. As I said, this debate is long winded, been done to death and sadly, you've chosen to go with misinformation yet again.

After over 20-30 years of using just about any type of port with more devices that you could imagine, I've yet to have a single one blow up or blow a port of any type. I've build electronics, repaired, tested, etc. for over 30 years.... my house is a freaking lab with more gadgets than most electronic stores probably carry. Do you know how many things have "blown" on me over a power issue... none, not one, never, nada, kaput... I can throw any of my devices that use anything from 200mah to 3A on any of my adapters of any power output and you know what I know will happen? It's either charge very slow or faster depending on the output of the adapter.

There is not a single electronic component that can suck power in through a cable as you believe.. there are many that can push the holy bejesus out of their output, but to have something that would pull and blow any port or other like you're saying, it ain't gonna happen.. what can happen is a short, a feedback, a pulse, and such, that could fry a port, but that's it, and that's due to a defective device.

I think that the reason that a few on here don't understand how DC power works is probably due that they read something relating to AC power and overloads at some point, and are stuck with a bad understanding and comprehension of how electricity works and the difference between AC and DC power.

Maybe it's because all you learned about were the old unregulated Egos that would fry by being put on a wrong adapter/charger.... those things were horrible for that.

 

[MarkyD]

No need to be a dork dude. I've got 35 years in electronics repair so I might know more than you think. If internal charge controllers were as good as what youre making them out to be, there wouldnt be a need to suggest using an external charger, a much better idea.

Back to the battery analogy. You've got a coil that presents a 20A load and you're suggesting that using a 10A battery is acceptable, and if it cant keep up, then its a piece of crap. Yeah, your knowledge of DC electronics amounts to sheer brilliance.

 

[BrotherBob]

Purchased a mod with a couple of lg in2 hg2 batteries.
I popped the batteries into the mod and started charging it through the usb cable (which is connected to an Aukey usb charger).

Welcome and glad you joined. It's always a good idea to charge the mod on the manufacturer's recommended equipment specifications.
Might like to read:
18650 Battery Buying Guide for Vapor Users – Wake and Vape Blog
(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum
Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod | E-Cigarette Forum
Battery Safety: Will You Marry Me? - Mt Baker Vapor
Guide to Choosing a Battery Charger | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

No need to be a dork dude. I've got 35 years in electronics repair so I might know more than you think. If internal charge controllers were as good as what youre making them out to be, there wouldnt be a need to suggest using an external charger, a much better idea.

Back to the battery analogy. You've got a coil that presents a 20A load and you're suggesting that using a 10A battery is acceptable, and if it cant keep up, then its a piece of crap. Yeah, your knowledge of DC electronics amounts to sheer brilliance.

If this is a sample of your knowledge, no, there is absolutely not a single bit of a chance that you know more than I think that you do... not after this just terrible comment. Heck, you'd be bankrupt and not a single client you'd have would get their stuff repaired correctly if you really were in any sort of electronics.. seriously, that was really bad, you should be ashamed of even trying to make such a fake claim.

The internals are charge controllers, they don't magically make the power appear into the device. They control how the power is managed going in, and how the batteries are charged.

An adapter provides the power to the device and that it's 500mAh or 2A, the device isn't going to care, and will charge according to it's set parameters. If less power comes in than it's max capacity that it's built to go up to, it'll charge at that level of incoming power and be just fine and happy with it. Give it more, and it'll simply go "ok, that's more than enough, let me use what I have been designed to use and block off the extra that I don't need".

And.. really? hmm. trying to twist something (or flat out invent it) around to save face? I've never stated what you're claiming whatsoever... seriously, just stop.

 

[MarkyD]

Now you're just babbling on about nothing. Seems you're just looking for an argument, so we're done here.

 

[KenD]

2.4a is pretty fast charging which is probably why it's getting toasty. I believe the circuit spilts this into 1.2a per battery whilst marginally increasing and decreasing the current to the appropriate battery. You should be fine, but it's still a better idea to get a standalone battery charger.

The Predator won't charge over 2 amps. The rating on the adapter is simply what it can safely provide, the actual charger is in the mod. Using an underpower adapter is worse as the adapter itself will overheat as too much current is pulled through it.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[mongo74]

^very true. I still think he should get a standalone charger.

 

[MarkyD]

The Predator won't charge over 2 amps. The rating on the adapter is simply what it can safely provide, the actual charger is in the mod. Using an underpower adapter is worse as the adapter itself will overheat as too much current is pulled through it.

My point exactly. Counting on a 10 cent charge controller (adaptive current sense or not) to protect your precious USB port is asking for trouble.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Now you're just babbling on about nothing. Seems you're just looking for an argument, so we're done here.

I posted points that you aren't able to refute without looking a fool, you lie and accuse me of saying something that I never did, and this is your comeback..

The point is this bad information that you and the few other clueless others that keeps ranting the same false info about chargers and charging circuits needs to end, and people like you just can't get it, and it's a negative for this site and all the newbies that are new to this stuff.

It's not an argument, it's simply facts, it's reality, this is how charging circuits and adapters work for mods, cell phones, tablets, just about any device with such a charging circuit. That you can't accept it is your problem, and I'm just trying to prevent anyone else from getting bad info.

 

[suprtrkr]

If it's getting hot, as a general rule of thumb, don't do that. My advice is buy a charger.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

For more questions about charging with USB, just read this article, it explains very well how charging units functions... it's a bit technical, but overall it explains how a charging circuits starts off checking the incoming power and limits it quite low, then increases to balance between the available incoming power and how it will increase the incoming load to it's "set" maximum should the incoming power matches (or is higher, which it will cut off).

The Basics of USB Battery Charging: A Survival Guide - Tutorial - Maxim

As far as this mod is concerned, I've looked up a few more reviews and technical text about it, and it was noted that it can indeed get quite warm when charging. How warm is debatable, but it is something that has been observed.

Then again, I've seen some batteries in my dedicated chargers that do get quite warmer than others.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Here's another fine article about power management.

Again.. it explains that voltage is very important, USB devices are set for 5V, no more, no less, otherwise it's going to be a problem for the device... aka, that's what it's been built to work with.

Amp... is going to be taking in... "pulled" as per my little friend stated above but doesn't understand what it means.... basically it means "uses", "takes in", the device is going to take as much Amps as 1) it is set to absorb, and 2) going up to that limit, it will gobble everything it gets (but again, NOT more than it's set to gobble, so if the device can take in 1A, giving it 2A isn't going to chance that it's only going to take 1A and never mind the extra, BUT if you give it only 0.5A, it will simply be taking 0.5A as that's all that's coming in, it cannot "force" more Amp. from the adapter, it cannot create a vacuum that would force the adapter to produce more Amps.)

How to: Understanding power consumption

 

[KenD]

What the above poster is claiming has been contested by many others here. As a general rule, it's a bad idea to use an underrated power supply (usb wall wart). Yes, the device might charge at a lower current, but it's also possible that the power supply overheats and fails. Do you really want to risk that? Using a properly rated power supply (rated for the current the device draws or higher, 2+ amps for the Predator) is the way to go. Still better, use a quality external charger.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[SteveS45]

The battery university does tend to suggest that, in general, lower charge rates lend to longer battery life.

Lower charger output does not equal underrated.