Modded My Grand to Fit Two Batteries....

[Treebeard]

If you mean the whole thing, unfortuantely it's not a production atty. It started out as a Phoenix v4 (ERA clone) that I drilled the center post for bottom feed, changed the screws to SS, machined a juice well, and machined my own Ti cap & drip tip. The cap was made just last week.

I'm using the "Cheapie Dripper" from SunVapers Cheapie Dripper the most inexpensive high quality dripper in vape.. DZ, is this the same thing? I modified it for bottom feed as per _nderscore's instructions and it's working really well....except for the crappy allen screws and the even crappier wrench that comes with it. Did you modify the posts for ss screws? I'd love to change out the stock screws and get a better wrench. Any suggestions on where to get the ss screws and a better wrench and what size screw? Ideally, I'd rather have phillips heads or even flat head. Sorry for all the questions but can ya help a brotha out?

 

[darkzero]

I'm using the "Cheapie Dripper" from SunVapers Cheapie Dripper the most inexpensive high quality dripper in vape.. DZ, is this the same thing? I modified it for bottom feed as per _nderscore's instructions and it's working really well....except for the crappy allen screws and the even crappier wrench that comes with it. Did you modify the posts for ss screws? I'd love to change out the stock screws and get a better wrench. Any suggestions on where to get the ss screws and a better wrench and what size screw? Ideally, I'd rather have phillips heads or even flat head. Sorry for all the questions but can ya help a brotha out?

No worries, ask away anytime, I'm always happy to help whenever I can, and if you're a Reonaut you'll get even more special attention.

Yes, those are the exact ones that I use. I have a bunch of them, I first bought them when they offered quanitiy discounts on them. I also have a number of the Squid from them too. The Squids are much better built but I like these better for modding.


For bottom feed I drill a hole in the post.

And another hole on the side of the post for juice to exit.

And the drip well.

For almost all my hardware needs I go to Mcmaster if I can't find locally, need better quality, or need bulk. The screws I use are

92605A042

1 Pack

Flat Point Set Screw, 18-8 Ss, M2 Size, 3mm Length, 0.4mm Pitch

SS316 would be better but they are more expensive. 18-8 is the equivelent to SS304. I use 3mm length for set screws but 4mm is more popular to use & are the size of the original screws.

Wrenches I also get from Mcmaster. They fit the replacement set screws much better but they don't fit the original black steel set screws for some reason so you'll have to use the old wrench to remove the old screws first. There are much better wrenches to use but I don't use hex drivers because it would be very easy to overtighten these little screws.

7289A32

4 Each

Standard Metric Hex L-key, 0.9 Mm Hex, 1-5/16" Length

I use set screws cause I prefer to use hex with everything. Sometimes I use socket head cap screws like this:

But philips screws would be more user friendly. Any of these would be the correct ones to use:


Metric Pan Head Phillips Machine Screws

Type 316 Stainless Steel—DIN 7985

Lg., mm	Pkg. Qty.		Pkg.
M2—#1 Drive; Pitch: 0.4 mm
4	100	90116A008	$6.78

18-8 Stainless Steel—DIN 7985

Lg., mm	Pkg. Qty.		Pkg.
M2—#1 Drive; Pitch: 0.4 mm
4	100	92000A011	$5.33

Metric High-Profile Cheese Head Machine Screws

Phillips

Slotted

Cheese head screws maximize driving power by combining the greatest head height with the smallest head diameter you can get in a metric machine screw.


Phillips—18-8 Stainless Steel

Lg., mm	Pkg. Qty.		Pkg.
M2—#1 Drive; Pitch: 0.4 mm
4	50	94017A101	$6.72

Slotted—Type 316 Stainless Steel

Lg., mm	Pkg. Qty.		Pkg.
M2—Pitch: 0.4 mm
4	100	91613A032	$5.86

Slotted—18-8 Stainless Steel

Lg., mm	Pkg. Qty.		Pkg.
M2—Pitch: 0.4 mm
4	100	91800A110	$6.82

Regarding the negative post, on some of mine they are loose & can spin when tightening the screw. I pull the pin out then stick them in a vise to slightly flatten them & put serrations on them. I apply a bit of red (permamenant) threadlocker on it, then press the pin back in with an arbor press. They have never moved again. Be sure to clean any excess threadlocker before use. Sorry I don't have a pic of this but I can take pics the next time I do one if you want to see. I just did one yesterday too.

 

[Treebeard]

DZ, that's exactly what I needed. You've made my day. It's people like you that make a good forum a great one and I feel your warmth. Thank you sooooooo much!

 

[pdib]

me too, and I didn't even need screws!




(today)

 

[pdib]

BTW: is the .4 pitch (and M2 size) a good replacement for RM2, as well?

 

[darkzero]

BTW: is the .4 pitch (and M2 size) a good replacement for RM2, as well?

Yes sir, that is the correct thread size, length depends on set screw or with a head.

 

[darkzero]

Here are the pics I said I would take.....

how does the wrinkle/vein finish do as far as dings and scratches. I imagine they hide blemishes a little better than solid anodized colors? Or is that just my imagination?

my Mini 2.1, which is what I carry every day, has two very minor scuffs on the back). Only noticeable at certain angles. I would say the wrinkle is pretty durable.... I'll try to snap a pic for you later.

It was hard for me to catch the scuffs on camera. Here's the best I could do. The second pic at a slightly different angle & the scuffs are unseen.

Any tutorial on making those beautiful coils? Can't really get the legs nearly as good as yours. Somehow they looks machine made.

Ater I wrap the coil I place the coil in the area I want it to sit on they atty, then eyeball & bend the leads in the direction leading to the holes. Next time I make a coil I'll take a pic of how the leads look like before I mount it.

Changed the atty on Mini 2.1 for another modded one today with a new coil.

 

[Treebeard]

dz, does the coil touch the lip of the atty and are you putting your cotton under the coil rather than through it?

 

[zodduska]

Looks incredible man, great work - I'm very jealous.

 

[darkzero]

dz, does the coil touch the lip of the atty and are you putting your cotton under the coil rather than through it?

The coil is sitting above the lip, on this atty it would cause a short if it was touching. The Ekowool is inside the coil like normal.

 

[FogHawg]

Way cool stuff darkzero, thanks for the pics! This place is loaded with talent!

 

[pdib]

Here are the pics I said I would take.....




It was hard for me to catch the scuffs on camera. Here's the best I could do. The second pic at a slightly different angle & the scuffs are unseen.

OUCH! You don't go out with that thing, do you?








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[Thedan1284]

WOW. Some excellent talent and resources. Thank you for all the time you put into this thread.

 

[Thedan1284]

Do you wrap your microcoils on a needle with the ecowool attached? Or do you coil on a cylindrical object-mount- and then thread. The only thing i can seem to get through my microcoils is cotton. Id love to get my standard silica in there while im waiting for my shipment of xc116, hollow silica cord, and ecowool. Im working with a reo grand, 2.5 AND 3mm silica, reomizer2, and both 29 and 32 ga kanthal until the my package can get to where im currently deployed. Id love to give this a shot. I can build the coils. But i cant fill them with good old maintenance free silica. Id hate to be using standard coils after seeing these coils from you and superxdrifter

 

[super_X_drifter]

Do you wrap your microcoils on a needle with the ecowool attached? Or do you coil on a cylindrical object-mount- and then thread. The only thing i can seem to get through my microcoils is cotton. Id love to get my standard silica in there while im waiting for my shipment of xc116, hollow silica cord, and ecowool. Im working with a reo grand, 2.5 AND 3mm silica, reomizer2, and both 29 and 32 ga kanthal until the my package can get to where im currently deployed. Id love to give this a shot. I can build the coils. But i cant fill them with good old maintenance free silica. Id hate to be using standard coils after seeing these coils from you and superxdrifter

Hey bro, the thanks go to you. If not for soldiers like you, we would not have any of this stuff to enjoy.

I always wrap first, mount while still on the mold, adjust coil then remove mold. As to the stuffing, I've never used silica, but I hear that you can double it over then fish a piece of wire thru your coil, tie it sround your silica and pull it thru?

Keep in rocking bro and just ask away if we can help

 

[darkzero]

Do you wrap your microcoils on a needle with the ecowool attached? Or do you coil on a cylindrical object-mount- and then thread. The only thing i can seem to get through my microcoils is cotton. Id love to get my standard silica in there while im waiting for my shipment of xc116, hollow silica cord, and ecowool. Im working with a reo grand, 2.5 AND 3mm silica, reomizer2, and both 29 and 32 ga kanthal until the my package can get to where im currently deployed. Id love to give this a shot. I can build the coils. But i cant fill them with good old maintenance free silica. Id hate to be using standard coils after seeing these coils from you and superxdrifter

I wrap micro coils much like others using syringe needles. I use music wire (not actual music instrument wire, that's what it's called), .0625"(1/16") & 0.47". But I have used 18 guage needles as well, mine measure .050" OD.

With Ekowool always wrapped micros directly on the Ekowool with music wire inserted into the sleeve. I use 1mm Ekowool with .039" (1mm) music wire in the center, mount, then pull the music wire out. Never thought I would be able to thread Ekowool into a pre-wound coil, I just never tried. I pulled one of my direct wrap old coil/wick apart & the inside diameter of the coil was smaller than 1/16" but larger than an 18 guage needle.

Yesterday, with the coil above, I tried for the first time. 1mm Ekowool was pretty easy to thread through a coil wrapped on 1/16", felt a little too loose though. After that coil I wrapped another coil using an 18 guage needle. That is just about the smallest coil I can thread 1mm Ekowool through & you have to be real careful not to fray the ends at all or it ain't going to happen. Wick is borderline too tight, vapor was fine but flavor seemed muted, could just be that particular juice though which for some reason also seems muted using rolled cotton. Today I wrapped a coil on .055" music wire & threaded 1mm Ekowool through without much effort. This seems to best so far. I only use rolled cotton at home.

BTW you can get music wire at any hobby shop. I have always had 1/16" on hand for various uses but picked up other sizes specifically for wrapping coils. They cost $.50-$.65 ea for 3 ft lengths at my local hobby shop.

 

[Thedan1284]

Thanks for the direction on feeding these coils. Its my day off so ill be working hard at it. Stay classy gentlemen.

 

[Thedan1284]

Well after a week of tinkering, about 1.5 feet of silica and 3 feet of 30ga kanthal, ive came up with the realization that i can only slide cotton through my micro coils with my limited resources. I did find a winning wick combination that works very well for me now. A strand of 1.5 ekowool wrapped tightly within 500 stainless mesh. Originally i used mesh alone, but would only get 2 drags per squonk and found it frustrating to take a lagre hit and get the infamous dryburnt stainless taste. The ekowool within keeps the stainless saturated for 5-7 hits for me. I have it wrapped tightly with a 29ga .8-.9 ohm slr coil. Taste is amazing. (Im a flavor junky).
I do have my xc116 to play with. But i wont be experimenting with it till im back home with my tinkering tools so i dont waste wick in my microcoil learning curve.
Id love to send pictures but ill figure out how at a later time.