Modder's Printed Circuit Board

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Just a quick Q:
you intend to use the PIC to controll the batt charging?
Because that would also require a voltage reference (internal is not good as it will fluctuate depending on USB voltage) otherwise it is just an expolosion waiting to happen.

Not read through the datasheet yet, but this is it (at least, one of the suitables, PIC16HV785: Programmable Lithium and Nickel Battery Charger):

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/01012b.pdf

A simpler smaller device would probably be better, such as:

solbat1.jpg

http://www.discovercircuits.com/H-Corner/solar-batt-chgr.htm

Only small changes (if any) to make this usb input rather than solar.
 
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caesar

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I think mogur thought about using a MCP73831/73832 charger chip from Microchip (sot32 with 5 pins) http://www.microchip.com/stellent/idcplg?IdcService=SS_GET_PAGE&nodeId=1335&dDocName=en026250

They look very simple to implement.

I can do a few single sided surface mount boards at home. Successfully used TSOP48 flash memory chips from usb sticks, so the components we are talking about here are pretty big and easy to use ;)

Just an example: sd-nand on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Yes, my vote is for the technically smallest device ;)
 

mogur

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Nice work, caesar.

Yeah, the micro I was thinking of is the sot-23-6 PIC10Fxxx. It would only supervise the charge controller chip, by suspending the charge when vaping for a few seconds, then resuming the normal charge cycle. Might confuse the charger chip with a high amp drain on the cell during a charge. But the PIC would mainly allow a tact switch to trigger the vape without passing an amp or so through the switch itself.

Kina, I don't know your touch switch circuit, but could it be done in software from the micro (without A/D)? A touch and a tactile switch would be a hell of a safety interlock.

I'm not trying to pitch the micro, because the board would still be great without it. The programming for this simple of a task, though, wouldn't take more than an evening. It's primary drawback would be the increase in board complexity.

Even at this simple of a level, though, a controller could do some tricky things. Like a variable toke timer. 'Double click' the vape button and the micro flashes the LED twice to tell you it's ready for input, then hold the button down for however long you want for a timer cutoff. The chip times that button press, writes it to flash memory, and from then on limits a toke to that length of time. Etc, etc. Again, the purpose of the board is to squeeze the charger inside the box, make the button and led mounting trivial, and still leave room for half the atomizer to be protected inside the box.

Oh, I took nico's radio shack 901 connector (actually digi-key) and quarter-twisted the solder tabs. Makes a nice way to solder it to the pcb and hold the connector in place while you goop some epoxy around it to fix it in place. The throughhole pads for atomizer wires could be centered to facilitate this idea.

connector.jpg
 

caesar

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I am thinking about cramming in a FTDI chip too to allow for USB communication to setup the micro by serial communication. It could show up as NicoSmart in device manager ;)
Then just pop open a terminal window and talk to your cig :D

We are doing this for ourselves, why not put the best in?

Edit: about the touch switch, you would need two surfaces that the finger has to touch for it to work with a PIC as just grounding a batt makes no sense, or? Will have to try it myself.
 
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mogur

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Kina's on top of the touch switch. One is single terminal picking up stray EMF, and the other is the two contact version, I think. Been leaving that to the expert.

PICs can directly interface USB with two data lines. Quite a bit of overhead in the small chips, though. A twenty pin version has the USB hardwired with minimal software overhead. Then, Visual Basic and USB HID protocol, but now we're talking a hell of alot of work unless someone out has some background. Just reading the protocol is more than I have time for.
 
Yep.

Do we want an atty completely inside? Half inside would prevent most stress on the connector from side torque.

well, half, as opposed to zero ;)

Those connectors are very strong. Could put the atty on th outside to have a bigger board.

And cut the atty in half to halve the rotational moment.

The unused half of atty tube would then be machined into a stainless steel cart/moyjpiece :)
 
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Paradiso

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well, half, as opposed to zero ;)

Those connectors are very strong. Could put the atty on th outside to have a bigger board.

And cut the atty in half to halve the rotational moment.

The unused half of atty tube would then be machined into a stainless steel cart/moyjpiece :)
Or, one could use a 510 atty which is already "cut in half". Using a 401 atty as the connector, mine are surface mounted and only protrude about 1/4" into the box.
 
Or, one could use a 510 atty which is already "cut in half". Using a 401 atty as the connector, mine are surface mounted and only protrude about 1/4" into the box.

Haven't tried a 510 yet.

Just put a freshly charged flat-style camera battery in my Touch version of a NicoStick; the combination of that battery and touch switch is so powerful that I'm thinking to use PWM to cut down the power! Realised that the battery I put in it originally was not fully charged; now it is almost too good - one really has to release the switch well early.

Actually my 901 was surface mounted in order to fit in the camera battery, which had to be diagonal, and it doesn't look or feel long; but then i don't use a cart/mouthpiece.
 
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