The electrical tape was too thick and didn't want to stay in place specially after comming in contact with ejuice. The teflon is amuch better idea and is thin.
Modding an RBA for Bottom Feeding
- Thread starter hildicat
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- nicquid provari revolution
- Status
OK, some tips for anyone else wanting to try this.
Probably a good idea to seperate the bottom connector part from the main post, (they are press fit together). I tried to drill through both at once, figuring the sealed bit on the bottom was pretty thin. It's not, it's like a 3/16" thick plug. The drill bit ended up going a bit sideways, and popped out the side of the post. Strike one.
So I ripped an open post out of an old carto. It was way too big, so I had to "lathe" it down with my drill and dremel tool, (put the post in the drill, spin it while grinding it with the dremel). Got it to fit, soldered it in.
Then it was too long. Cut some of it off, probably cut a bit too much off, now it doesn't make great contact. Anyway, reassembled, and now I have the dreaded hard short.
Using teflon tape on the top "disc" part eliminates most of the hard short. I wrapped about a half inch of it around the top, it sealed if off nicely.
Also had a slight short sometimes when I screwed it into a battery connector. The silicone sleeve is just a bit short, so the POS post at the bottom sometimes hits the neg tube when it's screwed in. More teflon tape, rolled into a tube, then wrapped around the post, (think "bonut"), isolated the pos post and neg sleeve at the very bottom of the atty nicely.
I wrapped a few coils, trying a CE2 wick and a bit of gauze. Neither worked well at all, so obviously I have to work on that part of my skillset...meanwhile, I tried to figure out how to use it as a bottom feeder. I hadn't slotted the bottom POS post, so sucking through the top with my finger over the airhole didn't do squat. This means if I ever manage to squeeze juice up into the damn thing, I won't be able to suck it up to where it can do any good...I'm gonna have to slot it to try and make that part work, I think...
Anyway...partly mission accomplished. Hopefully I can get it done the rest of the way...
Probably a good idea to seperate the bottom connector part from the main post, (they are press fit together). I tried to drill through both at once, figuring the sealed bit on the bottom was pretty thin. It's not, it's like a 3/16" thick plug. The drill bit ended up going a bit sideways, and popped out the side of the post. Strike one.
So I ripped an open post out of an old carto. It was way too big, so I had to "lathe" it down with my drill and dremel tool, (put the post in the drill, spin it while grinding it with the dremel). Got it to fit, soldered it in.
Then it was too long. Cut some of it off, probably cut a bit too much off, now it doesn't make great contact. Anyway, reassembled, and now I have the dreaded hard short.
Using teflon tape on the top "disc" part eliminates most of the hard short. I wrapped about a half inch of it around the top, it sealed if off nicely.
Also had a slight short sometimes when I screwed it into a battery connector. The silicone sleeve is just a bit short, so the POS post at the bottom sometimes hits the neg tube when it's screwed in. More teflon tape, rolled into a tube, then wrapped around the post, (think "bonut"), isolated the pos post and neg sleeve at the very bottom of the atty nicely.
I wrapped a few coils, trying a CE2 wick and a bit of gauze. Neither worked well at all, so obviously I have to work on that part of my skillset...meanwhile, I tried to figure out how to use it as a bottom feeder. I hadn't slotted the bottom POS post, so sucking through the top with my finger over the airhole didn't do squat. This means if I ever manage to squeeze juice up into the damn thing, I won't be able to suck it up to where it can do any good...I'm gonna have to slot it to try and make that part work, I think...
Anyway...partly mission accomplished. Hopefully I can get it done the rest of the way...
Ok I got Rob from REO's Mods to play with on of these. He did get it to work as a BF atty.
Here is the link to the thread on the REO forum.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/323670-phoenix-rebuildable-bottom-feeder-3.html
Here is another BF atty Idea as well should be fun.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/324191-homemade-atomizer-bottom-feed.html
Here is the link to the thread on the REO forum.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/323670-phoenix-rebuildable-bottom-feeder-3.html
Here is another BF atty Idea as well should be fun.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/324191-homemade-atomizer-bottom-feed.html
Update:
After getting it to work on my Reo Grand I realized that my 1.9Ω coil was too cool, so I set it up with a 1.5Ω, re-installed it and promptly shorted my spring.
So back to the drawing board. I got worried about possible copper making contact with the juice so I took a fairly fat syringe needle (not sure of the gauge) and fed it through the holes, flush with the bottom of the center pin and sticking up about 2~3mm. It feeds just as good, if not better.
Now I didn't want to tear it open again to try to insulate the posts so I added and unsealed 510 extender so I could use it on my Str8tek VV bottom feeder.
I still get a short every now and then, but the electronics just prevent it from firing instead of collapsing the battery springs. All I have to do is just slightly adjust the tension of the phoenix and it works like a charm.
I've gone through just about 9mls so far with this and it the best that I've tried. The larger drip well and cap height allow for more wicking material, which means more hits between squonks. And since I'm using cotton, I feel like I'm getting more life out of a bigger wick in the phoenix than my much smaller wick in the chalice. Add to that consistant, dialed in voltage makes for a fantastic vape.
I've emailed the creator of the phoenix and he stated he is working on a bottom feed version. There is already a larger version released to market, so hopefully soon, he'll release the bottom feed version. I asked if it is indeed brass or copper, but have not heard back from him. Will hopefully get a definitive answer soon and will report back here as soon as I have more info.
After getting it to work on my Reo Grand I realized that my 1.9Ω coil was too cool, so I set it up with a 1.5Ω, re-installed it and promptly shorted my spring.
So back to the drawing board. I got worried about possible copper making contact with the juice so I took a fairly fat syringe needle (not sure of the gauge) and fed it through the holes, flush with the bottom of the center pin and sticking up about 2~3mm. It feeds just as good, if not better.
Now I didn't want to tear it open again to try to insulate the posts so I added and unsealed 510 extender so I could use it on my Str8tek VV bottom feeder.
I still get a short every now and then, but the electronics just prevent it from firing instead of collapsing the battery springs. All I have to do is just slightly adjust the tension of the phoenix and it works like a charm.
I've gone through just about 9mls so far with this and it the best that I've tried. The larger drip well and cap height allow for more wicking material, which means more hits between squonks. And since I'm using cotton, I feel like I'm getting more life out of a bigger wick in the phoenix than my much smaller wick in the chalice. Add to that consistant, dialed in voltage makes for a fantastic vape.
I've emailed the creator of the phoenix and he stated he is working on a bottom feed version. There is already a larger version released to market, so hopefully soon, he'll release the bottom feed version. I asked if it is indeed brass or copper, but have not heard back from him. Will hopefully get a definitive answer soon and will report back here as soon as I have more info.
Anxiously waiting for that BF Phoenix!!! Hopefully all SS And still at a low price...
And still at a low price...
I've been using mine no problems for the last couple of days now. I did use the teflon tape to rap the positive plate to pervent shorts and also wraped the positive arm to the coil and soldered a 18 gauge needle in the hole of the center pin. I also used a o-ring on the connection threading so no ejuice collects in the reo juice well. I'm running a 1.7 coil with a kick in my reo grand and am lovin it
Sorry I tried to take sum pix with my cell but they don't come out very well cuz its only a 2mp cam. As soon as my wife finds the good camera I'll post sum. I'm also going to be shrink wrapping the base and coil arm with shrink tubbing for a cleaner look.
I mated the RCA jack rebuildable with a CE2. I used #1 guitar string throught the holes in the ceramic. One is wrapped/soldered on the center post. The other is soldered to the 510 connector. I wrap my coils around whatever wick I'm using, then a couple turns around the NR "posts" for pos and neg contact. Voila! A bottomfeed RBA, and it doesn't need a hole in the side of the barrel. Airflow comes from the hole in the pos pin, just as the nicquid does!
Now, I'm on the hunt for an aluminum barrel RCA plug, as this nickel-plated one gets super hot after multiple puffs!
Now, I'm on the hunt for an aluminum barrel RCA plug, as this nickel-plated one gets super hot after multiple puffs!
Guys, you can pick these up for $6.00 as well as Phoenix RBA's for $6.50, vivi nova's too, shipping is only $4 at vaporbreak.com
OK! Here she sits atop my VW BF. I used a SS eGo cone to smooth the look, but is optional... (I had to cut-down the cone due to the larger OD of the RCA barrel)
With eGo cone removed
Now, with RCA barrel removed
And a closer shot
The rebuildable RCA atty thread is in this section. Rather than use a solid center post, I used the CE2 w/ tube. It had to be cut-down, but after the NR wires are removed from the CE2 internals, the cup just comes off with a little pull and a Dremel cut-off wheel does the trick. *measure measure!
I mated the CE2 connector with the RCA plug via the instructions in the other thread, then began the connections of guitar stringto pos/neg with orientation to the tiny holes in the ceramic cup. I used some slack to allow feeding the NR up-through the bottom of the cup as I connected the cup to the air/liquid tube. Once it's in place, I fold the NR down throughthe slots of the cup to provide an extrenal "tether". I wrap my wick (Nextel ceramic in pic) around the coil, or vice-versa lol, then slide it into the cup and give a couple wraps around the contacts. Super simple!
With all parts on-hand at my mad scientist cave, I could put half a dozen of these together in under an hour.
Next time I remove the coil/wick I'll post a pic of the empty cup for better view of the pos/neg contacts.
- Status
Similar threads
