Moonshot 22m vs 24m?
- Thread starter DiscoRanger
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Thanks for the read! I read somewhere that the machining for the 24 was a bit worse, have you noticed that at all?
Both of mine are the same from what I can tell/noticed, when I get home tonight I can look a bit closer and let you know!
Machining on both if mine are pretty good, not top notch like my velocity but I can't find one thing on it that is out of the ordinary or not of good quality. The 24 is my daily driver atm and have had no issues with the threads on any of the parts and it all fits together nicely!
Always down to help man, especially someone who likes the Royal Hunter as much as me haha
Always down to help man, especially someone who likes the Royal Hunter as much as me haha
Royal hunter lol my royal hunter had 7 months of constant daily use before I finally got something else lol I wonder if the moonshots flavor is on par with my Kennedy 24 
thanks for the info man
thanks for the info man
Sure thing! It's on par/better with everything I own for RTAs and a lot of my RDAs except my cricket/indestructable combo which blows it out of the water lol. Not sure on a Kennedy since I don't own one but the only way to find out is to get one!
Best flavor comes from an actual RDA in my opinion, but for what the moonshot is its pretty good
Best flavor comes from an actual RDA in my opinion, but for what the moonshot is its pretty good
I want one I'm just broke, so I gotta save up lol, I saw the chimney was different compared to the 24 which is why I had a bunch of questions, but I hate dripping, love rdas, so I hope this will be perfect for me, same time I hate tanks tho too lol
The 24 looks like the chimney is more flat like the griffin were the 22 has more of a conical angular shape to it
Lol I wouldn't mind dripping if I didn't always make a mess and didn't have to drive all of the time so I only do it at my crib. I've done away with 99% of my tanks that use the pre made coils except 1 and started getting into RTAs for "future proof" setups. Nothing quite like the massive hit off an rda but they are essentially the best of both worlds.
Yeah idk why they made the chimney on the 22 get more narrow at the bottom but the 24 is straight, only down side to it for some is the small capacity but I don't mind filling up when needed.
A fairly big difference between the 22 mm Moonshot and the 24 mm Moonshot V2 is the placement of the post holes. On the original 22 mm version, the entire post holes are below the airflow hole, with the top of each post hole level with the top of the airflow post. The post holes are raised a bit on the 24 mm version, with the center of the post holes level with the top of the airflow posts.
This was a major source of complaints with the original 22 mm Moonshot, since the coil leads needed to be bent upwards quite a bit in order to clear the airflow holes. The coil leads still need to be bent a little on the 24 mm Moonshot, but not nearly as much as on the original.
For some reason, this detail seems to have been overlooked by just about everyone who reviewed both models.
This was a major source of complaints with the original 22 mm Moonshot, since the coil leads needed to be bent upwards quite a bit in order to clear the airflow holes. The coil leads still need to be bent a little on the 24 mm Moonshot, but not nearly as much as on the original.
For some reason, this detail seems to have been overlooked by just about everyone who reviewed both models.
I have the 24mm Moonshot. It's my favorite flavor and vapor device. It's my least favorite device to build on or wick. Building is a pain, but not so bad. Wicking is where it becomes frustrating as it's sort of a trial and error and cross your fingers sort of affair until you figure it out. This is common with any device, but the particular problem here is, trial and error on this device is a painful process with the wicking as you are going to definitely have a mess on your hands the first couple attempts, or something that is a dry hit machine that's over stuffed.
In any case, when it's wrong, it's kinda a time consuming and messy affair to take everything apart, clean, dry, rewick and try again.
I watched alot of videos on how to wick the Moonshot...and none of them work for me. Here is what I do:
I have 2 2.5mm claptons for a total of .5 ohm. I cut off 2 strips of koh-gen-doh cotton that are slightly wider than the target bore(~3mm?). I then tease the cotton thinner until it is about 5-6mm wide. I pinch and thread one end, clip the pinched end, refluff. I point the cotton upwards and thread the base/wicks through the chamber piece and screw into base. I then cut off any excess cotton so that there is about 2mm of cotton above the chamber piece. Some needlenose, hook calipers are useful here for bending and tucking the wicks into the chamber. Using the needlenose calipers tease some of the cotton out of the side of the wick holes on the chamber. You just want a slight bump and assure there is a cotton seal in those big holes...or else you are going to have lots of problems. Prime your wick material, check fire real quick and assemble unit.
You should be set at this point. The unit WILL flood on fill if you don't close the air intake. On first fill after a fresh wicking, you should let it sit for 15 minutes before you start in on it.
Unit gets very hot, you don't want it flush against your device. Back out your devices 510 pin so there is about 1mm between device and atomizer.
I also find that the device does not work well at the maximum air-intake. 75% is a sweetspot for me, but with the air-intake open all the way there is zero draw and it negatively effects the atomizer imo.
In any case, when it's wrong, it's kinda a time consuming and messy affair to take everything apart, clean, dry, rewick and try again.
I watched alot of videos on how to wick the Moonshot...and none of them work for me. Here is what I do:
I have 2 2.5mm claptons for a total of .5 ohm. I cut off 2 strips of koh-gen-doh cotton that are slightly wider than the target bore(~3mm?). I then tease the cotton thinner until it is about 5-6mm wide. I pinch and thread one end, clip the pinched end, refluff. I point the cotton upwards and thread the base/wicks through the chamber piece and screw into base. I then cut off any excess cotton so that there is about 2mm of cotton above the chamber piece. Some needlenose, hook calipers are useful here for bending and tucking the wicks into the chamber. Using the needlenose calipers tease some of the cotton out of the side of the wick holes on the chamber. You just want a slight bump and assure there is a cotton seal in those big holes...or else you are going to have lots of problems. Prime your wick material, check fire real quick and assemble unit.
You should be set at this point. The unit WILL flood on fill if you don't close the air intake. On first fill after a fresh wicking, you should let it sit for 15 minutes before you start in on it.
Unit gets very hot, you don't want it flush against your device. Back out your devices 510 pin so there is about 1mm between device and atomizer.
I also find that the device does not work well at the maximum air-intake. 75% is a sweetspot for me, but with the air-intake open all the way there is zero draw and it negatively effects the atomizer imo.
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