MVP 2.0 with a Kayfun Lite Question PLEASE HELP!!

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Completely Average

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Also, if I get organic cotton for wicking material, how important is it really for me to boil it first? Will I notice that big of a difference from boiling?

The boiling is to remove any leftover chemicals from the cleaning of the cotton. It may be organic, but it's still been given a bath in hydrogen peroxide to make the cotton white. The boiling is to remove any of the residue from that hydrogen peroxide bath.

You don't have to boil it, it won't hurt you if you don't, but the first few puffs might taste a little off.
 

Mindfloodz

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The boiling is to remove any leftover chemicals from the cleaning of the cotton. It may be organic, but it's still been given a bath in hydrogen peroxide to make the cotton white. The boiling is to remove any of the residue from that hydrogen peroxide bath.

You don't have to boil it, it won't hurt you if you don't, but the first few puffs might taste a little off.


Is there a specific way to boil the contaminants out of the cotton? Also, what is the drying method. I get my kayfun on Monday so maybe I could pre-boil my cotton so I'm ready to start playing with it when I get it in the mail
 

pwheeler

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Using distilled or purified water, boil cotton for 15 minutes. Empty into a clean strainer. When cooled sufficiently, squeeze out excess water. Make sure your hands are clean. I laid them spread out on clean paper towels until the next day. Again with clean hands, put your cotton in a ziploc bag to keep it clean.
 

brickfollett

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If you are set on sub-ohming I'd get a simple dripper of some sort.

From all I've read the Kayfuns are kind of temperamental anyways.

Temperamental can be an understatement lol, definitely for me in the past at least. The most successful I've ever been with my Russian 91% is with a full steel mesh setup. Clean crisp flavor, no dry hits and only minor leaking occasionally. Not like leaking leaking, just a drop every now and then. Ohms were jumping around between 1.6 and 1.9 because of the mesh, but it seems to have stabilized at 1.9. I prefer to have my ohms in the 1.8-2.4 range on my Russian, this should suit you right on the MVP2.0. Great choice by the way. It might seem a little top heavy with that kayfun sitting on it.

Also if your going to get a clone, I would go for something more than $37 bucks. I got one of the cheapy 40 dollar ones off ebay and wasn't really impressed. My Kebo Russian 91% however...

 

brickfollett

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I was running a Kayfun Lite on my MVP2, 28ga 12/13 wrap on a 1.4mm, or just less than a 16th drill bit, and gave me 1.4 ohms. Next I did a 30ga, 5/6 wrap same diameter at 1.4 ohm. The MVP handled it just fine. It worked better on my SVD. Now, I have a Nemesis and the difference is fantastic.

Interesting, I do my wraps around a 1/8" drill bit. When I used cotton, it was far less problematic. I experienced alot less leaking and dry hits than when using a smaller bit. I use steel mesh in my Russian 91% now though
 

jefsview

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I usually run my Kayfun clones around 1.1-1.5 ohms using cotton wick and they do just fine on the MVP2. I tend to prefer voltage mode with clearomizers, but wattage mode works just fine with the KFL clones. I try not to get too low with the ohms for the MVP, just to not damage the battery or PCB board.

But I prefer to run them on my Sentinel M16 clone.
 

Mindfloodz

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So do you think I'm going to experience problems with the Kayfun clone I've purchased? I figured I do my first coil at 28g kanthal using a 1/8" drill bit and do about 7 wraps to achieve 1.4 - 1.5 ohms. If the 28g doesn't seem to be suiting my needs, kanthal is cheap an I can always just buy some 30 or 32g. I'll put the 28 on the back burner till I invest in a mech Mod with some serious wattage on a high drain bat. I fully intend on using organic cotton for my wicks. I hate silica and I've heard mixed reviews about the wire mesh.

Tell me what you think about my idea for my first coil when I finally get my supplies.
 

FearTX

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So do you think I'm going to experience problems with the Kayfun clone I've purchased? I figured I do my first coil at 28g kanthal using a 1/8" drill bit and do about 7 wraps to achieve 1.4 - 1.5 ohms. If the 28g doesn't seem to be suiting my needs, kanthal is cheap an I can always just buy some 30 or 32g. I'll put the 28 on the back burner till I invest in a mech Mod with some serious wattage on a high drain bat. I fully intend on using organic cotton for my wicks. I hate silica and I've heard mixed reviews about the wire mesh.

Tell me what you think about my idea for my first coil when I finally get my supplies.

I use cotton in all my Kayfuns. I have moved back away from 28 gauge Kanthal. Lower powered devices do not drive hard enough to heat the coil very fast. I use 30 gauge on any regulated mod and 29 gauge on mechanical mods. 30 Gauge in a Kayfun on an MVP2 or a Provari gives you a quick heat up time and a better overall vape. Just my opinion.

28 gauge works fine though.
 

VaPreis

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Watch pbusardo's YouTube review of the kayfun light/Russian 91% and follow his method for wicking with cotton. I use a piece of coat hanger to wrap my coils on which is 2.2mm. No dry hits/no flooding. I'm surprised this video isn't referenced more often. The method is simple and it just works.

Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk
 

Completely Average

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I use 28 gauge Kanthel and I have no problems with microcoils. Usually end up with 1.3 ohms.

There isn't a specific "problem" with 28 gauge Kanthal, it just doesn't heat as fast as 30 or 32 gauge.

If you took a 28 gauge coil at 1.3 ohms and a 30 gauge coil at 1.3 ohms, the 30 gauge coil will heat up faster. The higher electrical resistance means more heating.
 

jefsview

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My MVP has a built in Ohm meter. Do you think that will be sufficient?

Yes it does. But it's not consistent. Sort of wonky. It'll do in a pinch (and it's why I upgraded to the MVP2 from the 1.5), but it has problems. Also, the only way to check for a short is to fire it, and use it's built-in protection. It works, but don't want to risk damaging the board by hitting it often.
 

jefsview

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There isn't a specific "problem" with 28 gauge Kanthal, it just doesn't heat as fast as 30 or 32 gauge.

If you took a 28 gauge coil at 1.3 ohms and a 30 gauge coil at 1.3 ohms, the 30 gauge coil will heat up faster. The higher electrical resistance means more heating.

Yes, but it also more durable and lasts longer. 28 gauge works well, it's what I got and I am happy with it's malleability. One thing I hate is adjusting coils and having the wire snap; less likely to happen with the 28. And, at this point, I'm used to building the coils, hitting the ohms I want and knowing how much punishment they can take.

A few more wraps, but worth it. For me ;)
 

Mindfloodz

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I do have a very good multimeter that i could use. I used to be a tradesmen servicing Furnaces and air conditioners so do you think a high end multimeter would be sufficient then? On a side note, I will be getting some 30g and 32g Kanthal :) Gotta have all the options right, lol :) Its kind of my new obsession
 

jefsview

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Yep. A multimeter is fantastic.

It's all about trial and error and seeing what works best for you and your device of preference.

Last year, I started on a cigalike, moved up to the Halo Triton, researched a lot for eliquids and equipment. Back then, the Viva Nova was the star, plus carto tanks, and that quickly changed to Protanks and mechs and Genesis style. Then the Kayfuns and iclears, and more mechs. I fell into mechs and dripping by winning one of each, and learned from there. Picked up my first MVP about 2 months after the Triton and loved it for the battery duration and VV. Just this year after getting my first Kayfun clone, I decided to use the mechs more. And more Kayfuns :)

It's a journey and we all take different routes sometimes. I still love and use both my MVPs, but it never hurts to have back-ups of back-ups and never hurts to try new things. When you're ready for them.
 
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