I have some 100% organic cotton make-up pads. It says that they have been bleached with hydrogen peroxide. Should I be boiling this organic cotton before use? I never have in the past and it works great, but I just wonder if I should be boiling it. Also, doesn't all 100% cotton you can get at drug stores bleached? Cotton isn't naturally bright white is it?....So does anyone have opinions on to boil or not to boil? Thanks!!
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Sorry for the out-of-focus pics
Rewicking With Cotton
Using cotton (balls or Rolled Cotton) to rewick Kanger bcc's (Evod in pictures):
Disassembled Evod and cotton wick (pull and twist to form a wick from the cotton) - old cotton wick near the Evod base
More wick made from the same 'puff' of cotton
Dry burn of the empty coil to get rid of any gunk
Wick threaded through the coil
Wick clipped to size
Base reassembled with a small flavor wick added to the top of the coil (I add this wick because w/o it I get a lot of juice sputtering)
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Recoiling the Evod
Evod head disassembled
Round toothpick and 32g Kanthal A-1 wire
Coil wrapped around the toothpick (5 wraps is usually ~2.5 ohms), notice the extra long coil "legs"
Bend the end of a coil leg back on itself up to the toothpick and twist together like a bread-bag twist-tie. This increases the resistance of the coil leg and keeps the leg from getting hot and burning the insulator:
Repeat with the other coil leg, clip off any wire end that is left over next to the coil as this may contact the coil body when installed and create a short
Insert coil legs into the coil body
Insert the insulator onto only ONE of the coil legs, bend the other coil leg over the edge of the coil body
Insert the insulator into the coil body
Insert the positive post into the insulator. Don't let the coil leg running through the insulator get pushed through. This is why I like using the round toothpick, it fits in the Evod slot nicely and lets you put tension on the coil legs to keep your coil in place.
You can either clip the ends of the coil legs off with scissors (be sure to clip them as close as possible) or bend them back and forth repeatedly to break them off - this seems to work better as there is less exposed wire with this method.
Screw the coil body back into the Evod base and carefully remove the toothpick, check the resistance and you're ready to rewick.
I dont understand how the twisting does anything when you ultimately clip the ends of the legs, separating each twisted part of the leg from the other. maybe the fact that the leg is wedged in with the insulator and pos pin, it doesnt matter that each leg has been clipped in two?
You essentially have double the capacity going up to the coil so it is less resistance...the power flows through easier and doesn't get hot until it gets to the single strand.
just tried this and built a perfect 1.5ohm coil using a machine screw, white cotton yarn for wick. so excited about this, now i just need a protank for more juice capacity!
working great so far, thanks for the tut!
working great so far, thanks for the tut!
Sorry I'm a little late, but I ran across this gem and have a question if the OP or anyone else knowledgeable could help me out.
Do you ever just replace the cotton and not the coil? Looks like you could just pull the cotton out, rinse the coil, and then slide a new cotton wick in it's place without having to take apart the head. I don't know if the cotton snags on the coil and deforms it making it unusable.
I really like the toothpick trick. Makes it much easier to get the turns right. I have about 5 heads that are gunked up and I am about to experiment like crazy!
Do you ever just replace the cotton and not the coil? Looks like you could just pull the cotton out, rinse the coil, and then slide a new cotton wick in it's place without having to take apart the head. I don't know if the cotton snags on the coil and deforms it making it unusable.
I really like the toothpick trick. Makes it much easier to get the turns right. I have about 5 heads that are gunked up and I am about to experiment like crazy!
Need some help here, tried this on my Kanger protank 1 (same style setup / heads) and the airflow was so tight that I had Zero draw.
Could this be caused by too much cotton? Coil being placed too low in the cup?
Still trying to problem shoot this, but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Juice looks to be a 50/50 (Alice in Vapeland)
To Out of Stock: When I'm rebuilding Rba's, if the coil looks good (no hot spots, good form) I leave them in there and dry burn the gunk off of them (dry burn with no wick) and reinsert a new wick. I've had good coils last for upwards of a month (some will say 6+ months, but that's debatable imo)
If you're having trouble inserting cotton into the coil, what I do is twist a piece really tight, then fold it in half and use a bent piece of Kanthal to thread the wick through the coil, much easier than trying to thread the cotton through like a needle.
Could this be caused by too much cotton? Coil being placed too low in the cup?
Still trying to problem shoot this, but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Juice looks to be a 50/50 (Alice in Vapeland)
To Out of Stock: When I'm rebuilding Rba's, if the coil looks good (no hot spots, good form) I leave them in there and dry burn the gunk off of them (dry burn with no wick) and reinsert a new wick. I've had good coils last for upwards of a month (some will say 6+ months, but that's debatable imo)
If you're having trouble inserting cotton into the coil, what I do is twist a piece really tight, then fold it in half and use a bent piece of Kanthal to thread the wick through the coil, much easier than trying to thread the cotton through like a needle.
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With the Kangers, I often start out by just removing the silica wick/flavor wicks and replacing with cotton. It's just like threading a needle, twist the end of your cotton wick to a point (if you dampen the end, it helps with this) and feed it through the coil.
When flavor starts 'turning'; replace the wick the same way. When the resistance of the coil starts to increase; then it's time to replace the coil.
I have been using the Davide Mini's, they are sort of a pro tank mini clone but you can change the drip tip on these. You need a syringe to fill them which I don't mind doing. The tank is glass/pyrex, Discount Vapors has them for $11.99. They use the Kanger coils, DV sells those in 5 packs for $5.49, shipping is super fast. I have started building my own coils for them, with the parts I have I should have a lifetime supply because I kept all the pieces when I burned out a coil.
Thanks for this (you sent me from Reddit). I find it much easier to see what's going on than to read a post about it. takes out the guess work =)
good question. google image result points to yes, cotton is naturally bright white.
Fyi
Color Grown Cotton: Fox Fibre : TreeHugger
Bah stupid me month old thread... thanks though for the pics. I hate watching you tube vids and prefer the pics.
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I read you shouldn't have the wires touching for the coil, I have seen other people have all their wraps touch. If I'm using a knock off ego t, should I have the wraps touch or not?
Your coil wraps can touch. Some even say it is more efficient...I'm not a scientist, so I don't know for sure. Here's a thread where all of the coil wraps touch...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...271-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th.html
I rebuild mine with premade NR-R 1.5 ohm wire - I make micro coils with it on a needle 0.9mm diameter (not sure the gauge - I think 19). I hold the coil with tweezers after wrapped tightly and give it a quick torching to make sure all the coils are touching. Then I run cotton through it. Then put it in the head. I don't dry burn with the coil in the head then try to wick it. After I situate the wires I put some liquid on it and attach it a device to test it. I trim the tiny cotton wick to the outer ledge of the head. I don't use a wick on top. I run these at 4v (10.6..watts). They vape very well. I don't run into dry hits or flooding issues. I would post pics but they look like the OPs pics (crappy).
u learn something new everyday... i rebuild mine they usually come to 1.8-2ohm and by the time im ready to recoil them the grommit is buggered so i need to throw the head away and recoil/wick a new one.
Thanx alot mate
Hmm... so i'm trying to recoil my evod right now with some 32 gauge Kanthal wire and I keep getting a blinking battery every time. I tested a brand new coil from my local vape-shop and its reading 2.7ohm and works great. The two I have made are reading 2.6ohm and 2.4ohm and neither work. I'm using an eGo-T battery.
Any help would be appreciated.
Edit/ Here's a pic. Nothing seems to be touching, and if it did, my voltmeter would not read what it's reading i believe.
Any help would be appreciated.
Edit/ Here's a pic. Nothing seems to be touching, and if it did, my voltmeter would not read what it's reading i believe.
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