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Here's some symptoms maybe...It started to vape very weakly so I charged the batteries. I noticed when I took them out they were very warm. Then when re-installing them it seems 2 or three of the springs (coils) are compressed much more now. Something is not right. Until I get some guidance here I'm going to hold off. I'm thinking of bypassing the manual switch. I don't need that anyhow. Thoughts?
Dang, had this thread open from earlier and just responded. Didn't see the current question 
Sounds like you got a NC switch. If the switch was bad, I would think it wouldn't work at all. The only 'fix' that I can see, is replacing the switch with a NO one.
Sounds like you got a NC switch. If the switch was bad, I would think it wouldn't work at all. The only 'fix' that I can see, is replacing the switch with a NO one.
I need a 'slap on the forehead' smiley today (for myself, for not paying attention
). What you want to do is run the black negative wire from the battery box, directly to the 510 connector. The red wire from the battery box should go to one side of the switch and the other side of the switch wired to the center post (positive connection) of the 510 connector.
OK....what can I say, I'm not a quick thinker today (hopefully it's just today 
)
Remove the black wires from the switch (soldering, gotta be done); remove the red wire coming from the battery box from the side of the switch you have it connected to and connect to the other side of the switch. Splice the black wire connected to the 510 connector to the black wire from the battery box - be sure to solder the splice for electrical and mechanical strength.
ETA:
I think with your present set up what is happening when you press the button of the switch, is that you are creating a short. This is causing the batteries to get hot and this causes the battery springs to sag. The great thing about NiMH rechargeable batteries is that this isn't that big of a deal. No BANGS like can happen with li-ion batteries. I shorted my NiMH batteries before and had 'spring sag', batteries still worked and battery box still worked. (Although I did eventually replace one of the springs)
)Remove the black wires from the switch (soldering, gotta be done
); remove the red wire coming from the battery box from the side of the switch you have it connected to and connect to the other side of the switch. Splice the black wire connected to the 510 connector to the black wire from the battery box - be sure to solder the splice for electrical and mechanical strength.ETA:
I think with your present set up what is happening when you press the button of the switch, is that you are creating a short. This is causing the batteries to get hot and this causes the battery springs to sag. The great thing about NiMH rechargeable batteries is that this isn't that big of a deal. No BANGS like can happen with li-ion batteries. I shorted my NiMH batteries before and had 'spring sag'
, batteries still worked and battery box still worked. (Although I did eventually replace one of the springs)
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I'm following this diagram. Thank you!here's a quick pic of what I mean:
All better now. Thank you so much TomCatt. Interesting note about the spring sag and battery short. I was smelling burnt plastic at one pointOK....what can I say, I'm not a quick thinker today (hopefully it's just today
Remove the black wires from the switch (soldering, gotta be done
ETA:
I think with your present set up what is happening when you press the button of the switch, is that you are creating a short. This is causing the batteries to get hot and this causes the battery springs to sag. The great thing about NiMH rechargeable batteries is that this isn't that big of a deal. No BANGS like can happen with li-ion batteries. I shorted my NiMH batteries before and had 'spring sag'
. I knew something was wrong. Its vaping like a champ now.Well it's done (for now). Time to enjoy a 510 atty.
I made a few mistakes that I will take and learn from. I bypassed the manual switch altogether. Then ran the wires up through the existing hole from that. Due to my original placement the wires are routed outside now. With switch wired properly (thank you TomCatt) it's vaping better than anything I've tried, and I've tried quite a few combinations in the past 6 months. The reason for the band is to hold the cover on the smaller box. I'll drill out holes and screw that together properly.
Here are some conclusions:
1. I like higher voltage vaping!
2. Now that I know what I'm doing I'm going to mod more!
3. New mods will use thicker gauge wire. Will this increase performance?
4. I like higher voltage vaping! (I realize I already said that. Just emphasizing)
5. The ECF community is awesome. To everybody who contributed toward my success, give yourselves a big pat on the back for me. Personal acknowledgement to "ThePuck" for giving me the insight on how to get started.
View Profile: ThePuck - E-Cigarette Forum
I made a few mistakes that I will take and learn from. I bypassed the manual switch altogether. Then ran the wires up through the existing hole from that. Due to my original placement the wires are routed outside now. With switch wired properly (thank you TomCatt) it's vaping better than anything I've tried, and I've tried quite a few combinations in the past 6 months. The reason for the band is to hold the cover on the smaller box. I'll drill out holes and screw that together properly.
Here are some conclusions:
1. I like higher voltage vaping!
2. Now that I know what I'm doing I'm going to mod more!
3. New mods will use thicker gauge wire. Will this increase performance?
4. I like higher voltage vaping! (I realize I already said that. Just emphasizing)
5. The ECF community is awesome. To everybody who contributed toward my success, give yourselves a big pat on the back for me. Personal acknowledgement to "ThePuck" for giving me the insight on how to get started.
Thank You ECF Community!
View Profile: ThePuck - E-Cigarette Forum
Congrats KEB!! I've been vaping exclusively on "Puck-style" PVs since April. I've even had one wired for 5 AAA NiMH batteries and decided that while I like "higher" voltage vaping, "high" voltage vaping isn't for me. So now I'm trying my hand at li-ion modding and have to go the variable voltage route 
to get to my 'sweet spot'. But I'll always have a Puck-style PV handy.
to get to my 'sweet spot'. But I'll always have a Puck-style PV handy.
The NiMHs are actually a poor choice unless you use a high ohm 901 atty or standard 3+Ω cartos like in the original Puck mod.
The OP said:
Let's see what NiMHs actually do. And that 'higher voltage'.
Here's a 4 cell AA pack, fresh off the charger.
Now here they are with a 2Ω load.
In an actual mod the additional resistance of the wiring and switch will knock that voltage down to about ~3.6V (if that).
That's a voltage sag of about 33%, those NiMHS just don't have the guts needed and are being pushed too hard.
For a comparison, here's a AW2600 Li-Ion pushing an almost identical 2.1Ω load, a Joye510. Test by tonyfalcon.
The Li-Ion is sagging about 8% under load. A high drain IMR would sag even less.
NiMHs have there place, here's where mine went.
As far as LED's I like then as a quick indicator that the cells are firmly seated in those often finicky plastic battery boxes. Also good for some cartos that don't fire so at least you know you are getting power before you start fiddling with center posts.
Food for thought.
Good points. I am getting a better vape than from my standard 510 batteries which is all I had before my mod. Some good info here on battery voltages...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/joye-510/65055-battery-voltages-surprise.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/joye-510/65055-battery-voltages-surprise.html
Yes Willy
KEB, if you read through the Puck threads:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/106016-how-build-puck.html?highlight=nimh
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...now-puck-cheap-parts-easy.html?highlight=nimh
you will see that higher ohm attys/cartos are recommended. Personally I use a 3.2ohm 510 clearomizer. I typically get ~0.9V 'sag' under the load of the clearomizer; starting at ~5.6V under no load and ~4.7 - 4.8V with clearomizer. The thing is I can vape for 10-12 hours and the loaded voltage is still over 4V (~4.2V) & this is with AAA NiMH batteries, not AA.
For an unregulated PV this is rather amazing, dontcha think? (I do.). Add in the safety factor of NiMH over Li-Ion and it just gets better. Add in the fact that you can pick up NiMH batteries locally...and, in a pinch even use alkaline batteries, 'nuff said .
KEB, if you read through the Puck threads:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/106016-how-build-puck.html?highlight=nimh
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...now-puck-cheap-parts-easy.html?highlight=nimh
you will see that higher ohm attys/cartos are recommended. Personally I use a 3.2ohm 510 clearomizer. I typically get ~0.9V 'sag' under the load of the clearomizer; starting at ~5.6V under no load and ~4.7 - 4.8V with clearomizer. The thing is I can vape for 10-12 hours and the loaded voltage is still over 4V (~4.2V) & this is with AAA NiMH batteries, not AA.
For an unregulated PV this is rather amazing, dontcha think? (I do.
). Add in the safety factor of NiMH over Li-Ion and it just gets better. Add in the fact that you can pick up NiMH batteries locally...and, in a pinch even use alkaline batteries, 'nuff said .
Ok Throwing my hat into the ring here....
TBH I like the idea of building a box that can accept batteries I can acquire locally at any brick and mortar store.
BUT
I am hooked on LR Vaping and that type of set up will force me to use standard Ohm carto's the NiMH just will not pack the punch that I have become accustomed to, that's why I build 3.7 box mods and using a parallel battery configuration to get the ever precious extended vape time maxed out as much as I can between charges.
This is just my preference and I don't expect all to agree with my opinion.
To Each his/her own, anyway for what it's worth congrats on making your first successful battery mod Keb!
Keep on trying new things and learning as much as you can. Most of the box mods on these forums are very inexpensive to make and you can find parts dirt cheap at radio shack/home depot or any hardware store.
/rant
TBH I like the idea of building a box that can accept batteries I can acquire locally at any brick and mortar store.
BUT
I am hooked on LR Vaping and that type of set up will force me to use standard Ohm carto's the NiMH just will not pack the punch that I have become accustomed to, that's why I build 3.7 box mods and using a parallel battery configuration to get the ever precious extended vape time maxed out as much as I can between charges.
This is just my preference and I don't expect all to agree with my opinion.
To Each his/her own, anyway for what it's worth congrats on making your first successful battery mod Keb!
Keep on trying new things and learning as much as you can. Most of the box mods on these forums are very inexpensive to make and you can find parts dirt cheap at radio shack/home depot or any hardware store.
/rant
Just MHO also:
I use a 3.2ohm CE2 clearomizer (tank) on my Puck cause I like a warm vape and this setup gives me that.
I use a 3.2ohm CE2 clearomizer (tank) on my Puck cause I like a warm vape and this setup gives me that.
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