My first RBA rebuild pic, need pointers and input
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The Trident RDA
The Nimbus RDA
have both, work great, can be used in single or dual coil. for a few more then 30 you can have both
The Nimbus RDA
have both, work great, can be used in single or dual coil. for a few more then 30 you can have both
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Honestly the easiest RBA that is cheap and effective is the IGO-L. Its a two post design, without holes to thread the wire through. Which, one you get going with RBAs, you will find that sometimes, holes to thread the wire through, are a pain in the .... Me personally, even though I have moved onto the dual coil RBAs mostly(Really loving the new Patriot I just got), the Igo-L is still a very cheap, very easy, very effective RBA. I can build it so quick, theres no fiddling or anything. Feed the two leads on the inside edges of the posts, they will naturally catch under the screw heads, bend one wire 90 degrees, tighten screw, bend the other, tighten, done. Takes me at least twice as long if not more to build any of my dual coil RBAs with post holes.
If you're using 3mm silica(my favorite), you dont need more then two strands unless you go real low subohm. Even down to .8ohms, two strands of 3mm works well. Since you're building for above 1ohm, the type of kanthal you use does matter.
Now, Im of the opinion that you should learn how to build a regular plain old coil before you start doing micro coils and nano coils. And me, even though I CAN build micro and nano coils, I actually PREFER, a regular old coil.
Shooting for 2ohms, you're gonna want 32gauge kanthal. Try 4 to 5 wraps, that'll be about right. Now if you're building for a mech, maybe try for 1.5ohms, 3-4wraps. The reason you want to use 32gauge, and not just use more wraps of say 26 or 28, is because of how long it will take the coil to heat up. 32 gauge is very thin, and even around 2ohms, will still glow quickly. If you built a 2ohm coil using 26gauge, you'd be firing the thing forever before it got fully heated up. 26 and 28 are good for sub ohm. 30 is good for hovering around 1ohm. 32 is good for 1.5-2ish. 34 and up is useless IMO, because theres no reason to build a coil above 2ohms. My opinion.
But MOST IMPORTANTLY, do not just assume that because I say "4-5 wraps is about right", that its right. You need, at the very least, a VV device that will check the ohms, and better yet, an ohm checker or multi meter. Stay above 1.5ohms, and you dont need to really worry about batteries. Start approaching the 1ohm and below region, and you need to know the amp limit of your battery, and the amp draw of the coil. That is more advanced building, and while it can done with complete safety, you should become familiar with building coils above 1.5ohms before you start doing anything else.
If you're using 3mm silica(my favorite), you dont need more then two strands unless you go real low subohm. Even down to .8ohms, two strands of 3mm works well. Since you're building for above 1ohm, the type of kanthal you use does matter.
Now, Im of the opinion that you should learn how to build a regular plain old coil before you start doing micro coils and nano coils. And me, even though I CAN build micro and nano coils, I actually PREFER, a regular old coil.
Shooting for 2ohms, you're gonna want 32gauge kanthal. Try 4 to 5 wraps, that'll be about right. Now if you're building for a mech, maybe try for 1.5ohms, 3-4wraps. The reason you want to use 32gauge, and not just use more wraps of say 26 or 28, is because of how long it will take the coil to heat up. 32 gauge is very thin, and even around 2ohms, will still glow quickly. If you built a 2ohm coil using 26gauge, you'd be firing the thing forever before it got fully heated up. 26 and 28 are good for sub ohm. 30 is good for hovering around 1ohm. 32 is good for 1.5-2ish. 34 and up is useless IMO, because theres no reason to build a coil above 2ohms. My opinion.
But MOST IMPORTANTLY, do not just assume that because I say "4-5 wraps is about right", that its right. You need, at the very least, a VV device that will check the ohms, and better yet, an ohm checker or multi meter. Stay above 1.5ohms, and you dont need to really worry about batteries. Start approaching the 1ohm and below region, and you need to know the amp limit of your battery, and the amp draw of the coil. That is more advanced building, and while it can done with complete safety, you should become familiar with building coils above 1.5ohms before you start doing anything else.
Not trying to hijack the thread, I know what Muggs is feeling about "new territory". But I have to agree with Jman. Igo-L is the perfect learning tool. My first build came out looking quite weird and had crazy high Ohms. Determined to do this, so tried my second just now (positive attitude, right?) Took about two minutes to wrap and screw on, test Ohms, and I'm more than happy right now. Comes in at 2.5 Ohms, higher than I wanted, but part of the learning process. Just dripped some NLV Capparillo, which I've loved in my clearos. But.....never had any idea it tasted THIS good! Stick with it Muggs. You'll get it, and the payoff is more than worth it!
i cant recommend using an rda and an ego together. The rda requires lots of more power than egos cant handle.
Thanks for the info guys. I haven't gotten around to trying a new coil and testing it yet. My carto tanks just really kick a ton of vapor as it is so I have been slow to getting around to it. I'm taking all of your info and will give it another go for sure.
I appreciate the info on the Igo-L i'm going to check that out now actually.
I appreciate the info on the Igo-L i'm going to check that out now actually.
while i agree that the igoL is an easy to rebuild RBA, i do not agree that it is the easiest. if it had holes in the posts, then yes, i would say its vying for position as the easiest rba. after learning the basics, no post holes may become preferred, but for a beginner, i beleive post holes make things easier JMHO.
i agree with Thrasher's choices. the trident clone in particular. that RDA is one of my favorites. its got big air holes, which i love but if you get it, get ready to lung-hit. after getting acclimated to the trident, your carto tanks will feel like trying to suck a milkshake through a coffee stirrer.
i will add to the OP that ribbon wire is not the easiest wire for a beginner. the springiness and flat nature of the wire makes things a tad more difficult, especially when securing the leads and maintaining good coil-wick contact.
For an eGo I would suggest this... http://www.vaporbeast.com/IGO-S-Mini-Rebuildable-Dripping-Atomizer-p/80-0187-006.htm?Click=9265
Thanks for the links and info gentlemen. Just finished and tested this 2ohm setup. Things hits great now. I'm not a fan of this wire. The fact that it'a flat makes it hard to shape the way I want.
Sorry, but I think you mean thick wire requires a lot of power to heat. Eternity is an RBA and it was designed to fit nicely on an EGO type battery. It also uses 36ga(thin) wire at a higher resistance.
Same can be done with an IGO-L or any other Dripping atomizer. Just depends on what the user wants.
Totally disagree I use a vision spinner and a mini rba (squid) from fasttech with a 1.5 ohm micro/nano (12 wraps of 28g on a 1/16 drill bit) with cotton ball wick and the flavor and vapor production are very very nice. I prefer a cooler vape than my hubby he uses dual .5 ohm micro's on the same little cheap dripper. His clouds are much larger but the vape is way warmer. So for me the vision/single coil is perfect.
Thanks for the links and info gentlemen. Just finished and tested this 2ohm setup. Things hits great now. I'm not a fan of this wire. The fact that it'a flat makes it hard to shape the way I want.
Ribbon wire is much more difficult to work with. Get some 30 gauge round kanthal a1 and try shooting for 1.2 to 1.5 ohms. I think your mod may be a sigelei #20, so sub-ohm with 28 gauge is not recommended (switch gets so hot it fuses closed and doesn't stop firing). Forgive me if its a different mod.
Also, the RDA you have is just fine. I would get really good at building on it before considering anything else. Try something new when you get bored with it or find some limitation (such as inadequate airflow).
That's what I figured. Looks like a round wire would be a cake walk after using this flat wire. Going to get some 30 gauge this weekend. That particular mod is a Roller clone with an efest 18650. I'm going to play with the 30 guage on this RBA for a while. The airflow could be a bit better on it for sure though so it creates warmer vapor.
Right, the Sigelei #20 is a Roller clone. I know you probably bought it as a "Roller clone", but I don't think there are any markings on it that say it is a "Sigelei #20", so it would be impossible to tell unless you asked whoever you bought it from. Just don't go below 1 ohm unless you understand the risks of this particular mod.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii26/bitterman1970/f8daPFl_zps67ea8242.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7LhODcqn3fc/Uc9RuczlXcI/AAAAAAAAO_M/yzOAN06Xp18/s467/Captureasdasd.JPG
I'm not trying to scare you or anything, just be careful. With the relatively restricted airflow of your RDA, it may not be pleasant to go sub-ohm anyway. A 1.5 ohm or so microcoil of 30 gauge should vape pretty well.
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