My first (successful) rda coil build. Pretty stoked.

[Spencer87]

Those are imbalanced coils. If you aren't balanced you are effectively draining added battery and juice for no real gain. The slower coil is still cooking juice and draining battery but won't be performing optimally for vapour and flavour gains. If they read evenly then it's possible you didn't spend enough time working the coils in before wicking.

They end up getting pretty darn close... its just im a bit obsessive and i work them in but i still notice that there is just a hair faster that one heats up .... miniscule amount...

 

[LikelySplash710]

Juice consumption is massive with Clapton coils. I never run dual claptons for that reason. I've also noticed that the effect of claptons is highly dependent on your atomizer. In some, I've found the flavour increase minimal, and not worth the juice inefficiency. In my Hadaly, however, the difference is astounding to the point that I can't use standard round wire in it anymore.

I have 26/38ga SS on a spool, and 26/38 fused Ni80 which I buy in sticks. The fused nichrome is my Hadaly Clapton wire and I get three coils per stick - I could easily get 90days from one stick (honestly probably closer to 120 days) but I'm .... and scrap my coils regularly. I spare no expense on wick and wire.

Point is, claptons can have massive advantages, but not always, in my experience. DEFINITELY worth grabbing some to play with though. Pre-made claptons are pricey, be forewarned.

They also take significant effort to work out hot spots and shorts - and be aware of those shorts. My Hadaly coil is 0.31 ohms on the money once prepped; it will usually read 0.16-0.19 when freshly installed. You need to be confident in your calculations, be patient when dry burning and shaping - take your time and start around 20w.

Stating it again for effect: you cook that sucker for as long as it takes and be GENTLE with it. Getting an even, centre-out glow on a Clapton is paramount.

So this 22ga I've been using has been very easy for me to work out shape and spots with a bit of patience I'm thinking I will try the 26ga next and then the Clapton. I would rather wrap my own than buy premade

 

[VictorViper]

So I was really high before maybe 150w then went down to like 30 on a Heracles tank and was only using like 200ml of juice a month which I loved!!

Sure, and that's an important lesson. Lots of vapers prefer the extreme ends of vaping (see "tootle puffers" and "cloud chasers"), but there's a really wide area in the middle you may prefer. I run mechanicals and vape loosely around 40-50W as a rule. I build for flavour and reasonable clouds, with battery life and juice consumption my secondary concerns. Where I vape is, for my taste and vape style, about perfect. Too much deviance on either side and it's immediately diminishing returns. Going much lower makes for a dissatisfying vape in spite of battery and juice gains, and going much higher doesn't generally improve my vape enough to justify the added battery and juice expense.

 

[Letitia]

When I first started using clapton wire I always spaced my coil, made it less frustrating getting used to wire. As far as tfv4 single rba; at least 3mm id, it likes cotton. Wick is as always is the key factor. Been so long I don't remember how long my legs were, do remember I only used clapton coil.

 

[VictorViper]

So this 22ga I've been using has been very easy for me to work out shape and spots with a bit of patience I'm thinking I will try the 26ga next and then the Clapton. I would rather wrap my own than buy premade

Note there's a major difference between buying premade wire and premade coils. I wouldn't touch a premade coil with a 10 foot pole. Absurd pricing and no flexibility at all. Sticks are much cheaper, spools even cheaper still. Usually the fancier stuff isn't in spools though.

Buying Clapton wire is still way cheaper than buying coils but it's still a massive rip off in the grand scheme of things. A drill is cheap and has non-vape utility.

 

[Letitia]

I only pay 10.00 for 10 prebuilt tri-core fused clapton coils from AVS. Each coil lasts at least a month, I'm okay with that. That's only 83 cents a month per rta. Does't seem expensive to me.

 

[VictorViper]

I only pay 10.00 for 10 prebuilt tri-core fused clapton coils from AVS. Each coil lasts at least a month, I'm okay with that. That's only 83 cents a month per rta. Does't seem expensive to me.

Same here, the price is negligible in the long run, but our OP is in his honeymoon with rebuilding. Lots of coils to be made over the next while.

 

[Letitia]

I'm enjoying his enthusiasm.

 

[LikelySplash710]

Same here, the price is negligible in the long run, but our OP is in his honeymoon with rebuilding. Lots of coils to be made over the next while.

So another question my Sig s is reading a .22ohm my eleaf .16
8wraps 3mm 22ga kanthal

 

[LikelySplash710]

 

[stols001]

So, something inside me wants to say that Sig mods read a bit high. I have no clue as to where that idea is coming from, somewhere *on* this forum, probably, but if not, my imagination is riding in high gear? I'm kind of thinking it might be right though. That does seem like a fair amount of difference, though, was it that way with other builds?

Anna

 

[LikelySplash710]

So, something inside me wants to say that Sig mods read a bit high. I have no clue as to where that idea is coming from, somewhere *on* this forum, probably, but if not, my imagination is riding in high gear? I'm kind of thinking it might be right though. That does seem like a fair amount of difference, though, was it that way with other builds?

Anna

I have read the same thing not sure if it's high or low but regardless it could be dangerous. May be I will build a single coil in my tfv4 at 1.0 when I get some new wire to play safe until I get an ohmeter regardless if the eleaf is accurate or not....probably just need a new mod

 

[suprtrkr]

So another question my Sig s is reading a .22ohm my eleaf .16
8wraps 3mm 22ga kanthal

A little variance in readings is normal. It is hard-- read very expensive-- to build an accurate ohmmeter in the ranges vapers use. You need a milliohmmeter, and those are hundreds of dollars and usually unusable for vape purposes, except for lab equipment, as they carry a current in hundreds of amperes, being intended to check the resistance in motor windings. About the only way you can do it accurately and (fairly) cheaply is a 4-wire Kelvin probe setup. Essentially, you pump a known voltage across your resistance and measure the voltage drop-- accurate voltmeters are much cheaper to build than ohmmeters-- which is proportional to the resistance. This takes 4 wires, two to supply the current and two more to measure the voltage drop, thus the name. Even those are usually a couple Franklins. Cheapest I ever saw was on eBay; Chinese made, alleged to be fairly accurate, and still cost a hundred bucks. So yeah, I don't have a lot of faith in the accuracy of your mod's ohmmeter.

Bear in mind also resistance in wire-- in all metals-- varies directly with temperature; that is, the hotter the metal is, the more resistive. Thus a coil measuring XΩ at room temperature will measure X+YΩ once it has been fired a couple times.

And a "little variance" is what you have: .22 - .16 = .06Ω...

 

[LikelySplash710]

A little variance in readings is normal. It is hard-- read very expensive-- to build an accurate ohmmeter in the ranges vapers use. You need a milliohmmeter, and those are hundreds of dollars and usually unusable for vape purposes, except for lab equipment, as they carry a current in hundreds of amperes, being intended to check the resistance in motor windings. About the only way you can do it accurately and (fairly) cheaply is a 4-wire Kelvin probe setup. Essentially, you pump a known voltage across your resistance and measure the voltage drop-- accurate voltmeters are much cheaper to build than ohmmeters-- which is proportional to the resistance. This takes 4 wires, two to supply the current and two more to measure the voltage drop, thus the name. Even those are usually a couple Franklins. Cheapest I ever saw was on eBay; Chinese made, alleged to be fairly accurate, and still cost a hundred bucks. So yeah, I don't have a lot of faith in the accuracy of your mod's ohmmeter.

Bear in mind also resistance in wire-- in all metals-- varies directly with temperature; that is, the hotter the metal is, the more resistive. Thus a coil measuring XΩ at room temperature will measure X+YΩ once it has been fired a couple times.

And a "little variance" is what you have: .22 - .16 = .06Ω...

I'm thinking maybe it changed after I cooked the coils and could be reading accurate? I don't know haha

 

[suprtrkr]

I'm thinking maybe it changed after I cooked the coils and could be reading accurate? I don't know haha

Could be. No real way to tell without some really good gear.

 

[LikelySplash710]

On the bright side I found a kanthal variety pack on amazon and some unbleached organic Japanese cotton both at a great price!!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L...nthal+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=61qYGNg-WeL&ref=plSrch

 

[LikelySplash710]

I've discovered that 22ga at dual 6-8 wraps which works well needs at least 50-70w for an OK ramp up time. Good wire just not what I'm looking for personally.

 

[Letitia]

On the bright side I found a kanthal variety pack on amazon and some unbleached organic Japanese cotton both at a great price!!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L...nthal+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=61qYGNg-WeL&ref=plSrch

Have fun!

 

[LikelySplash710]

I can't wait I did some research and I will be making some diy juice. 60$ for about 1200ml of some what hopefully turns out to be good juice.

 

[LikelySplash710]

Finally got my goodies in... DiY Juice, done. New coils, workin on it.. enjoying my tfv8 at about 50w 10wraps 24g kanthal throwing out some awesome clouds with some great flavor.