My Infinity is not working properly............Help

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Ravenscroft

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I have been using my Infinity, which I named, for awhile now with no problems. But now I have this major problem which causes the cut off to come in with no reason. I measured everything with an up to date Multi- meter. All my atties and Carto's were over 3 Ohm's. I left the Infinity for a day and it worked sgain. I did the same today and it works but only for about 3 seconds then gives up the ghost.
I am not sure what to do as my Buzz just keeps on working . no matter what.

I am a bit turned off with this as it is the first PV that has proved breakable. I have been vaping for over 14 months and have never had anything go wrong so far.
Help.
RC
 

Ravenscroft

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Yep.... 3 different sets. Also tried 4 different carto's at 3.1 to 3.3 ohms and an atty at 2 .8 ohms. They all fire up but just cut out after a few seconds. At first they go for about 5 seconds, then they go off after 3 seconds.
I have metered everything to try and make sure and then use my Buzz. The thing is not working how it should on the ∞ but I am very open to solutions. They work great on the Buzz.
RC
 
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Bejeebus

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My Infinity was cutting out off and on as well... similar to what you described. I think I have figured it out - at least for mine. I now make more of an effort to keep juice away from the connector... my method includes giving the whole unit a few good shakes/snaps by holding the end opposite the atty end. This seems to get the fluid away which - as mentioned above - may be causing a short.

Seems to make sense since it would come alive after not doing 'anything' discernible.

It's such a great mod that I didn't want to give up on it and use it along with my Phidias .. just for varietys sake :)
 

5cardstud

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Raven I get that same thing with a couple of my PV's when I get juice in them. I just close my eyes and blow out the end with my mouth. Then wipe off my face. The juice nowdays is conductive just enough to set off protection circuits. You could also use that canned air used for blowing out computers or a compressor if you have one. The alcohol cuts the juice and dries faster.

One last thing. I have this happen allot with Ikens V2s and have to pull the center post out because if the center post goes in too far the center post and outside both touch causing a short.
 
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Ruppy

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No Raven when protection kicks in the light will stay on it just wont fire. If blowing it out and cleaning it wont help email mike. Since your so far away he might walk ou through the next steps.

I have also seen the juice cause this. I am concluding a personal 30 day study on ejuice and I can assure you that some juices are indeed conductive to a small extent.

Let me ask you this Raven. When you vape do you point your PV down \ up / or keep it level-- (asking for my own personal data :) )
 

Ruppy

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I have not seen too much conductivity in Dekang product. It seems to be mostly related to juices and or flavorings that are modified, cut, thinned, etc. Some flavoring also seems to play a role. Im hoping to start a post later this week to outline my findings. I think everyone will find it interesting. Really wish I could get a lab to test all the juice to validate my findings. Perhaps a second person can undertake something similar to see if the results correspond.

All of that said, sometimes the nonfiring issue is not conductivity related at all. It is actually the converse. The juice creates a membrane between the center posts. The posts may be contacting but if there us any gap at all the liquid will seep between them. Once it does, if the juice has 0 conductive properties it can cause a no fire scenario. If it does have conductive properties than it can cause a short scenario tripping the protection circuit.
 

BuzzKill

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Ruppy I found something weird when I was testing some juice for conduction , the closer the leads were together the lower the resistance !, I think they need to be tested at higher currents like 1 amp or so .

Raven I think you may have a bad insulator in the connection ?? not good really because we would have to replace it !, the earlier models had the LED on the input side of the IC later version had it on the output side so there are 2 versions , when did you get yours ??
 

Ruppy

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Ruppy I found something weird when I was testing some juice for conduction , the closer the leads were together the lower the resistance !, I think they need to be tested at higher currents like 1 amp or so .

Raven I think you may have a bad insulator in the connection ?? not good really because we would have to replace it !, the earlier models had the LED on the input side of the IC later version had it on the output side so there are 2 versions , when did you get yours ??

That should be doable. I have a spare meter. I can set up a 1 amp test pretty easy I think. I will pick 5 and check them against the original findings to see if I can find a difference. Thanks Mike.
 

Wharf Rat

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Ruppy I found something weird when I was testing some juice for conduction , the closer the leads were together the lower the resistance !, I think they need to be tested at higher currents like 1 amp or so .

Raven I think you may have a bad insulator in the connection ?? not good really because we would have to replace it !, the earlier models had the LED on the input side of the IC later version had it on the output side so there are 2 versions , when did you get yours ??

That should be doable. I have a spare meter. I can set up a 1 amp test pretty easy I think. I will pick 5 and check them against the original findings to see if I can find a difference. Thanks Mike.

Ruppy if you use a 1 amp fixed current ( current regulator like a lm317t ) then measure the voltage across the leads you will get the resistance by OHms Law.

Thats more or less what I had in mind. I have a box full of regulators so I should definitely have a suitable one :) My parts box overfloweth LMAO

Huh ??????

Man, that's all Greek to me............... Oh, wait a minute, never mind :oops:
 
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