Need a battery for Magneto Clone NiMH

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Baditude

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CreepyLady

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What makes you say you need a NiMH battery for a mechanical mod? :blink:

Don't you mean a Li-Mn (IMR) battery? These are the batteries typically used with mods.

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or protected ICR?

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries

Rechargeable Batteries

The most popular place to purchase mod batteries is from RTD Vapor.


These blogs go over every detail of everything battery. IMR is the safest chemistry (and Hybrids) for vaping. There is also a list of quality batteries in the first blog. Rule of thumb: do not use any battery or charger with the word fire in the name (trustfire, surefire, etc)
 

Baditude

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Are li-ion batteries safe though?

Li-Mn, also called IMR batteries, are safer chemistry batteries than Li-Ion protected ICR batteries. NiMH batteries are not used in modding. All of these facts are in the links that I originally posted for you.

ANY battery has the potential to have some degree of danger involved with it. So much stored energy in such a small package is bound to have potential for danger. The key is to practice common sense and use safe battery/mod habits.

Mechanical mods have no built-in protection circuitry like a regulated variable voltage/wattage mod has. The onus is on you, the user, to practice common sense and use safe battery/mod habits.

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Cloud Chasing is Dangerous

 

anumber1

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I just want a safe battery and the right kind for the magneto clone.

As has been covered:

Ni-mh are the wrong batteries for vaping. Li-Mn are the right batteries.

If you cannot/will not take the time to learn and understand how to use a mechanical mod safely, stick with an ego or cig-alike. That would be the safest course of action.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 

Icey

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Li-Mn, also called IMR batteries, are safer chemistry batteries than Li-Ion protected ICR batteries. NiMH batteries are not used in modding. All of these facts are in the links that I originally posted for you.

ANY battery has the potential to have some degree of danger involved with it. So much stored energy in such a small package is bound to have potential for danger. The key is to practice common sense and use safe battery/mod habits.

Mechanical mods have no built-in protection circuitry like a regulated variable voltage/wattage mod has. The onus is on you, the user, to practice common sense and use safe battery/mod habits.

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Cloud Chasing is Dangerous

I understand now. I'll be getting the Magneto with the Li-Mn battery with it. Thanks for the lesson & much learned. However, one more question. Which name battery is it that is the Li-mn?

Edit: So the kayfun clone + Magneto clone + li-MN will be alright in terms of safety? I just want to make the right purchase and not to make any mistakes, ya know?
 
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Baditude

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You are definitely one who needs to be spoon-fed. I do appreciate your concern for safety. :)

PLEASE read this blog. It has a list of IMR batteries to choose from. Battery Basics for Mods

  • 18650 is the battery size.
  • Battery manufacturers are the likes of AW, Panasonic, Sony, etc.
  • MAh determines how long a battery will last on a charge (higher number is better).
  • Amps determine the burst energy available (higher is better).


Any of the 10 amp batteries will suffice for factory-made coils (clearomizers, cartomizers, etc) and rebuildable coils over 0.8 ohm. If you ever plan on doing sub ohms (which I pray you don't for a long time), you will need one of the 30 amp batteries.

I recommend RTD Vapor as a good source to purchase your batteries.
 
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Icey

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You are definitely one who needs to be spoon-fed. I do appreciate your concern for safety. :)

PLEASE read this blog. It has a list of IMR batteries to choose from. Battery Basics for Mods

  • 18650 is the battery size.
  • Battery manufacturers are the likes of AW, Panasonic, Sony, etc.
  • MAh determines how long a battery will last on a charge (higher number is better).
  • Amps determine the burst energy available (higher is better).


Any of the 10 amp batteries will suffice for factory-made coils (clearomizers, cartomizers, etc) and rebuildable coils over 0.8 ohm. If you ever plan on doing sub ohms (which I pray you don't for a long time), you will need one of the 30 amp batteries.

I recommend RTD Vapor as a good source to purchase your batteries.

Hey man, don't blame me lol. I was comfy using the itaste Mvp until it doesn't give that push it needs onto my kayfun. I tried the magneto clone and I was sold. I'm learning and enjoying your replies but don't get me wrong. I listened to the video, did a little reading but not entirely because it's a wave of info. Not only that and ohm reader is another thing that'll cost me as well making sure I don't go sub under the ohms. And no, I don't plan on becoming a "cloud chaser" after reading that reddit post >.>;
 

brickfollett

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Would battery plus be an alright purchase for 18650 battery for my magneto? That's all I need left :)

Battery plus? Like the Batteries Plus store? No. Certainly not.

You should be taking the advice we are giving you VERY seriously. For your safety and for others. Your MVP had all the protection in the world built in to it. If something isn't right, it doesn't work. It's like your car throwing a check engine light if something is wrong.

Now imagine you have a car that doesn't have a check engine light. And you put diesel in a gas engine. Or did something else incorrect. You have nothing letting you know that something is wrong.

A mechanical mod REQUIRES perfect understanding of ohms, amps volts, the works. Before you even think about throwing a battery in that mech and vaping away, you DARN well better have an ohm meter, and have THOROUGHLY read those blogs that Baditude graciously provided for you. Those are the standards of safety practices among our community. You push the button on that thing and you have a short with the wrong battery, and your going to look like two face from Batman. And I'm saying that in the most LITERAL sense possible.

Take it seriously.

Apologies if my words are harsh, but it's very important to us that you understand exactly what your doing. I recently got into mechanicals and I made dead sure I was aware what I could and couldn't do, and acquired the safest batteries I'm aware of, being Sony VTC5 batteries. I use that on high ohm builds too, because I know that if I short a high ohm coil, the odds of it dropping to .2 or lower ohms is low, and the battery will be able to handle it, at least in theory.

Do the research. Be safe. Take it seriously. Your playing with fire and gasoline and gunpowder if you start messing around with the wrong hardware.
 

Icey

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I'm taking it seriously hence why I made a post before thinking about buying, cloud chasing, or even picking batteries. Unlike most vapor junkies out there, I like to ask before even being interested in a product.

So far I collected information knowledge I thank everyone in this thread. I downloaded the Ohms calculator, I bought a Ohm reader LCD, the mod of course with vents middle telescope and bottom fire button, and kanthal wire 28 gauge.

I do plan to buy batteries from RTD vapor simply because quality > quantity including safety. Yes I even watched videos on battery care and understanding picking the right battery and not sub ohming. Sub ohming is going down bellow the thresholds of 0.x range correct ?

So pretty much before I start even Vaping I should consider the amps of how much stress I'm putting on the battery, correct? And consider which one is appropriate battery amp if ever plan on sub ohm'ing, correct ?

My last question would be which RTD vapor battery is an li-mn battery ? Which man is more prefered ?
 

brickfollett

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I'm taking it seriously hence why I made a post before thinking about buying, cloud chasing, or even picking batteries. Unlike most vapor junkies out there, I like to ask before even being interested in a product.

So far I collected information knowledge I thank everyone in this thread. I downloaded the Ohms calculator, I bought a Ohm reader LCD, the mod of course with vents middle telescope and bottom fire button, and kanthal wire 28 gauge.

I do plan to buy batteries from RTD vapor simply because quality > quantity including safety. Yes I even watched videos on battery care and understanding picking the right battery and not sub ohming. Sub ohming is going down bellow the thresholds of 0.x range correct ?

So pretty much before I start even Vaping I should consider the amps of how much stress I'm putting on the battery, correct? And consider which one is appropriate battery amp if ever plan on sub ohm'ing, correct ?

My last question would be which RTD vapor battery is an li-mn battery ? Which man is more prefered ?

For a great, all around safe battery, I wouldn't look much further than Sony VTC5 batteries. I believe they are theoretically the same as AW-IMR's except a higher mah rating, a flat top, and a 30 amp capacity. These are safe down to .2 ohms or so. AW-IMR's are safe down to .8 ohms and have either a 2000 mah capacity, or a 1600 mah capacity, which I believe is capable of lower ohms. Research that one first, because I'm not positive.

And yes, sub-ohming is anything below 1.0 ohm. .99 ohms is sub ohm. My sweet spot on my Reo is .8-.9 ohms.

On my Stingray, my sweet spot for major cloud chasing is around .43-.47 ohms. I haven't gone lower than that, because I can only vape 100% vegetable gycol at that point, and nothing else. No flavor, no nicotine, just straight VG. For an every day vape, .7-.8 is fairly powerful on my Stingray.


For my final recommendation from RTD's site, I would get at least a pair of Sony VTC-5 batteries. They'll protect you in case a higher ohm coil gets a nasty short
 
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