Need first timer help... Kanger PT2

[Lessifer]

I think you want to bring the coil up so the hole of the coil is in line with the wick cutouts, this should help keep it from touching the inside walls too. It's probably easiest to keep it on the drill bit and place the bit in the wick cutouts while you're trapping the wire legs.

 

[RainbowBabz]

I think you want to bring the coil up so the hole of the coil is in line with the wick cutouts, this should help keep it from touching the inside walls too. It's probably easiest to keep it on the drill bit and place the bit in the wick cutouts while you're trapping the wire legs.

I kept the tongue ring in the wick cutouts (with the coil in the center) until I placed it onto the meter.

 

[carrielsal]

I figure the screwdriver I use to build coils is maybe a little more than 2.2mm diameter, and I use 28G kanthal.
Take a cook at the coil wrapping calculator, Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators.

 

[Lessifer]

I kept the tongue ring in the wick cutouts (with the coil in the center) until I placed it onto the meter.

Hmm... must have just been the pic, looked like the coil was below the cutouts. If you've made sure the coil isn't touching anything, then it's most likely one of the legs shorting somewhere.

The base should be: Outer wall | wire | insulator | center pin | wire | insulator | Outer wall

Also make sure the ends of the wire legs aren't poking out and touching something they're not supposed to. I had a factory protank head short and kill an ego battery, the end of a leg was poking through the insulator.

 

[RainbowBabz]

Ok, third attempt registered 1.77 on the reader. I'd call that a success... right? Waiting for girlfriend to rinse me a tank, to try it out.

 

[Lessifer]

Ok, third attempt registered 1.77 on the reader. I'd call that a success... right? Waiting for girlfriend to rinse me a tank, to try it out.

Good! Make sure you get it all assembled, tank too, and check it again just to make sure, but that sounds like success to me

 

[d4gger]

I've got one of those little coil checkers, they jump around a bit. The .12 reading says short, though. When you're building your coil, before you drop the legs down the hole you'll want to make sure the negative (outer) leg will go straight down the side. The positive (inner) leg should go nearly straight down the center. I bend the positive leg at a 45 degree angle right where it comes off the coil, and back 45 degrees to put it right down the center. With the coil in position and the negative leg trimmed but overhanging a hair I replace the insulator, with the positive pin coming out the insulator's hollow. Then I bend the positive leg out so it stays in place, slide the positive connector pin in almost fully, trim the positive leg so it won't hang out at all, slide the connector pin the rest of the way, and check resistance.

The fact that you're getting 7 ohms sounds like you may not have the gauge wire you think you do, or one of the legs isn't getting a good connection. Make sure to loosen the mPT2 base a bit before tightening the atty head into it, then tighten the mPT2 base to the meter. A "pro" (ha,ha) tip - check your coil's resistance before even coiling it by carefully touching one end of the wire to the center post of the meter, and the other end to the outer. It'll jump a bit, but you'll get an idea. It helps to cut a length of wire corresponding to the resistance you want, just add .5" for trimming and make sure you end up trimming about .5". For 30 guage, 2.5-2.6" end wire length is right, according to the numbers the numbers TomCatt posted.

If a particular portion of my novelette made no sense, please ask for clarification. Best of luck, I had a lot of frustration with building coils to start so I know how it can be.

 

[RainbowBabz]

Ok so after 9 total attempts, between me and my girlfriend: We now have 6 fully functional heads. Two have been tested with batteries and juice and all that, the other 4 were just tested with the ohmmeter.
Our coils measured between 1.77 and 1.96, all of which I consider to be "close enough" to my goal of 1.8-2.2
Thanks a TON for all your help guys, I'm so happy I took the time to learn. And I'm sorry to everyone I snapped at in the past talking about "I have no desire to build my own coils" lol.

 

[Lessifer]

I see a full RBA or two in your near future

 

[d4gger]

6/9 is a great success ratio, and that's a great range to a 1.8 target. Congratulations on winning

 

[RainbowBabz]

Not NEAR future. Can't go making any big purchases anytime soon. But I suppose it's possible in the further future lol

 

[duc916]

It's been my experience that anything lower than 1 Ω on most eGo batteries will flash (error out) and not fire, and you want to max out on the available current to get the most flavor out of your juice. I've gotten 28ga 7-8 wrap microcoils to fit in a Davide atomizer, which is the same size as your PT2. at just over 1 Ω. Any microcoil you put in those atomizers will blow away anything they make from the factory with their sorry 34 ga/silica garbage.

 

[RainbowBabz]

It's been my experience that anything lower than 1 Ω on most eGo batteries will flash (error out) and not fire, and you want to max out on the available current to get the most flavor out of your juice. I've gotten 28ga 7-8 wrap microcoils to fit in a Davide atomizer, which is the same size as your PT2. at just over 1 Ω. Any microcoil you put in those atomizers will blow away anything they make from the factory with their sorry 34 ga/silica garbage.

Thanks, but at this point 1.8 works fine for me. Lower would eat more juice and need better batteries... Neither of which I can afford right now! But these "1.8-ish" coils sure beat the hell out of the 2.5 stock coils that were all I could find.
I'm sure I could get better, but this is great for my budget.

 

[duc916]

That's cool. Just go for 30 or 32 ga at 7-8 wraps and you should be good. It would be helpful to have a 510 ohmmeter to see exactly where it lands, but you will likely find that you want to go lower resistance than you suspect. My main thing was letting you know how low you can go.

 

[RainbowBabz]

Ok new problem guys... After a couple days of using these coils, I can't get one tank to stop leaking. And it's leaking pretty bad, bad enough that I cleaned it and made sure all the o-rings are in place, which they are. But still, any time I try to use it, it completely floods the battery. I have tried rewicking with more wick than I was using before I started recoiling. What can I do to make it seal properly?
ETA: This problem has been there despite using different coils... it COULD be an issue with most of our coils, because this is the first batch of coils we've made, or it could be an issue with my tank which I sure hope isn't the case... Because that would drop me and the girlfriend down to one tank between the two of us. Less than ideal since we have different taste in juices and I have work to go to occasionally.

 

[duc916]

Sounds like not enough cotton thickness where the two ends gets squeezed by the chimney top cap. Try a thicker wick, like double the thickness. Make sure that top cap is getting fully seated too. If you start getting dry hits, then you know it's a little too thick.

 

[Lessifer]

If you take the head out of the one that isn't leaking and put it in the one that is, does it still leak? If so, it's the tank. Check to make sure there aren't any pieces missing. like an o-ring or silicone seal.

 

[RainbowBabz]

Sounds like not enough cotton thickness where the two ends gets squeezed by the chimney top cap. Try a thicker wick, like double the thickness. Make sure that top cap is getting fully seated too. If you start getting dry hits, then you know it's a little too thick.

Tried more cotton and ensured that the top cap was seated well... it sounds like it's still leaking, but the draw is a bit tight... I don't think it's as bad, so I might be able to make do with it, but I'm definitely still searching for an actual fix.

If you take the head out of the one that isn't leaking and put it in the one that is, does it still leak? If so, it's the tank. Check to make sure there aren't any pieces missing. like an o-ring or silicone seal.

Before I changed the head this last time, I checked all the o-rings, and the silicone cap is still there. I can't think of any other parts that could be missing. But both tanks are filled so I'd rather not mess around more than I have to right now.

 

[edyle]

Tried more cotton and ensured that the top cap was seated well... it sounds like it's still leaking, but the draw is a bit tight... I don't think it's as bad, so I might be able to make do with it, but I'm definitely still searching for an actual fix.

Before I changed the head this last time, I checked all the o-rings, and the silicone cap is still there. I can't think of any other parts that could be missing. But both tanks are filled so I'd rather not mess around more than I have to right now.

Is it gurgling?
Check if adding a second silicone cap inverted fits; if it fits easily, then it means theres a gap between the top of the coil head and the air tube chimney.

 

[RainbowBabz]

Is it gurgling?
Check if adding a second silicone cap inverted fits; if it fits easily, then it means theres a gap between the top of the coil head and the air tube chimney.

It was gurgling, before I added more cotton. Now it's a tight draw, but still leaking, occasionally spitting back into my mouth. Should I still try a second cap?