Need help figuring out this ohm/voltage thing...

[araczynski]

i have an egoT, with a 1000mah/3.7v battery.

should i assume that the law of R=V/I applies here? so technically a 3.7ohm resistance (the atomizer here) would mean the current passing through the atomizer would be not doing any 'heating' of the ejuice? because it would not overloaded enough to produce significant heat.

in which case that is why i want something of lower resistance? so that it 'overheats'? and hence the lower i go the more i overheat (and consequently wear out the affected component-atomizer due to it operating outside of its intended parameters, although in this case that is the intended effect) faster?

i.e. lower resistance=higher temperatures=more/faster vapor, at cost of shorter atomizer life?

or am i just confused?

mainly i want to verify that when people recommend lower resistance atomizers they are doing so without also saying (perhaps with the assumed knowledge, not necessarily by both parties) that it will be a shorter lived atomizer?

so basically a 1.7ohm atomizer in my setup would be passing through more than twice as much current than the 3.7ohm one, even though i don't really want a 3.7ohm one since it wouldn't be doing any vaping for me...

 

[Stosh]

.....i.e. lower resistance=higher temperatures=more/faster vapor, at cost of shorter atomizer life?

or am i just confused?

mainly i want to verify that when people recommend lower resistance atomizers they are doing so without also saying (perhaps with the assumed knowledge, not necessarily by both parties) that it will be a shorter lived atomizer?

Your are correct, lower resistance at the same voltage = more amps, more watts, more heat.. sometimes a good thing. The trade off is higher heat will lower the life of your atty, carto, car engine, the PC or smart phone you're posting with.....etc.

The good news is you can match the resistance with the voltage you're using to get to the wattage that makes YOUR juice taste the best to YOU. We all have a personal preference there...

This chart is a simple way to find the wattage you're using and what you like, then buy equipment that produce that wattage...
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/469/wattage.png

 

[Rocketman]

I agree with everything posted so far

The 3.7 ohm atty or carto would be a poor vaping device at the eGo voltage.
A 1.5 ohm atty or carto would be a severe load for the eGo and shorten it's life (some say yes, some say no).
The production range of the 1.5 ohm cartos seems to be from 1.4 to 1.6 ohms. If you stumbled on a 1.4 ohm one that could be bad news.
A 1.6 ohm EMDCC, 1.7 ohm single coil carto or a 2.4 ohm carto would be reasonable on an eGo.
Think of the P=VI/R where a small change in resistance produces a larger (the square of the difference) change in power the eGo has to deliver. You want as much vapor as you can get without damaging the equipment or overheating the juice.

 

[araczynski]

thanks guys, so what is the resistance of the stock tankomizer that the egoTs ship with? to correlate that to the wattage on that chart?

 

[CaminoDiablo]

What I have found that works for me is trying different ohms vs. volts. I wound up liking 2 volts more then what the ohms where. Hence 2 ohm = 4 volts. 2.5 ohm = 4.5 volts. I'm not a tech guy by any sort, why I put it simple. From the people I have talked to it comes down to what you find as your sweet spot. Having a variable makes this a lot easier. Just my two cents, happy vaping.

 

[Rocketman]

thanks guys, so what is the resistance of the stock tankomizer that the egoTs ship with? to correlate that to the wattage on that chart?

Depends on the vendor
(that's the one to ask)

 

[madjack]

...something for you to play with...no, not that silly... this Ohm's Law Calculator
madjack

 

[CaminoDiablo]

thanks guys, so what is the resistance of the stock tankomizer that the egoTs ship with? to correlate that to the wattage on that chart?

If you have a multimeter you can check it with that or find someone with a Provari

 

[madjack]

...every household should have a multi meter...how else ya gonna know this stuff..........
madjack

 

[zoiDman]

All good info.

I would just add that Attys, Filler Type Cartos, CE2's, CE3's, Tanks, etc can't be perfectly compared ohms wise.

A 2.6~2.8ohm CE2 Cartomizer may give a great hit on a 3.7v PV. Where as with a Filler Carto, to get a similar hit you might need to go 2.0 ohms. And with an Atty, 1.8ohms is the sweet spot.

Hope this helps and doesn’t cause more confusion for the OP.

 

[Devlin]

Light Bulb moment.....This explains the reason for variable mods. Still WAY too much to learn. I'm going to be spending a lot of time here!

Real boy in T-Minus 1 post....

 

[CaminoDiablo]

Light Bulb moment.....This explains the reason for variable mods. Still WAY too much to learn. I'm going to be spending a lot of time here!

Real boy in T-Minus 1 post....

Correct, with a variable you have all the options at hand. It's worth buying one, I recommend the Provari since they have a great product.

 

[araczynski]

i do have a decent multimeter, didn't think to try it out...

 

[vapidkitty]

I've got a variable power mod araczynski (as opposed to variable voltage), and P = V * V/R & V = sqrt(P*R) have become my new friends. I set the Wattage I want to vape at and my mod reads the resistance of the atty and adjusts the voltage as needed. I've learnt that while a combination can result in the same Wattage, the individual values of voltage and resistance make a big difference in how something vapes, especially with more 'delicately' flavoured juices. It's the advantage (and ease) of variable power over variable voltage

 

[vapidkitty]

This chart is a simple way to find the wattage you're using and what you like, then buy equipment that produce that wattage...
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/469/wattage.png

Stosh if I could 'love' a post instead of just 'like' it, I would. That's such a neat little tool to compare products.

 

[Rocketman]

One other thing to consider is the size of the battery in a mod (single or dual).
While some, like a VV with a linear regulator lose 20 to 40% of the battery energy as heat in the electronics, switching regulators can be almost as efficient as a direct wired mod.
The amount of vaping you do, how hard you hit it and how often, would probably be less with a higher voltage. Unless you cranked it up and still hit it as often as a 3.7 volt e-cig.

Finding the sweet spot is one thing, but having enough battery power to make it through an "outing", away from your charger is another. Basing your decision on someone's "this lasts me a day and a half, and I'm a heavy vaper" may not apply to you. Here's a little "visual aid" on the energy held in various Li-on 3.7 volt cells in "Watt Hours", the parameter that says what is really in those cells The cells listed are common sizes, and everyone will NOT agree on the average mah I listed.

Compare what you have to what you plan to get.
and the next time you see someone post that their 10440 VV mod running at 5.5 volts with a LR atty lasts them all day, you can compare that to what would last YOU all day.

 

[vapidkitty]

Dang, you guys have all the good stuff! Stosh & Rocketman would you mind if I re-post those to my local forum? (credited, of course )

 

[Stosh]

Dang, you guys have all the good stuff! Stosh & Rocketman would you mind if I re-post those to my local forum? (credited, of course )

spread the knowledge far and wide (it's been knocking around forever).... if ya can get 'em to read it, understand a bit and it helps find their long sought after sweet spot all the better...
realize that any chart, vendor equipment specifications, or calculator is a way to make an educated guess on how any PV & atty will operate for you. Trying a specific juice with your setup is the only way to tell if you guessed right, different flavors usually like different watts....

and the search for the perfect sweet spot continues........

 

[zoiDman]

Light Bulb moment.....This explains the reason for variable mods. Still WAY too much to learn. I'm going to be spending a lot of time here!

Real boy in T-Minus 1 post....

Bingo, I think we have a Winner!

What vaping really comes down to is Watts.

A simple explanation:

Watts are a measure of the amount of heat produced. It is this heat that vaporizes the e-Liquid in an atty/carto. Too much Heat and the e-Liquid Burns and the hit tastes Nasty. Too little Heat and the Hit tastes weak with little vapor.

The problem is, Watts is a function of Voltage (Volts) and Resistance (Ohms). In a regular PV, the Volts for the most part can't be adjusted. So users fine tune their hit to their e-Liquid by buying different attys/cartos in different ohms.

But with a VVPV, the user can adjust the hit to find the "Sweet Spot" by adjusting the voltage.

I mainly use 2.6~2.8 ohm CE2's. For Atomic Cinnacide, I find 3.4 volts tastes great. For Sweet Watermelon, 3.6 works best. And for Tasty Finger, 3.9 is the magic number.

Another thing is that attys/cartos can vary wildly ohm wise. But with a VVPV it really doesn't matter. So if I buy an atty or a pack of CE2's and the ohms are a little low, no big deal. I just boost the voltage on my Provari slightly.

When it comes time to buy another kit or replace some batteries, consider going with a VVPV. You will not regret it.

 

[ojelela]

Sorry if I missed somewhere, but is there "magic" ohm value L M or H to use with VV devices??