I recently bought a mech mod I did a bunch of research on battery safety and ohms law but how come my fire switch don't feel like it's working eight it has a spring it just don't seem to be hitting that hard!!
Need help with mech mod plz!!
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Could be that the contact points need to be cleaned. Needs to be done with a mechanical from time to time, even if it hasn't been in use.
What mod and atty are you using, and the ohms too. Someone may be able to give more specific help if they knew what you were using.
What mod and atty are you using, and the ohms too. Someone may be able to give more specific help if they knew what you were using.
I'm using glacier x1 rda and a infinite cartel clone and my build is 7 wrap dual 24ga parallel at. 17 ohms
did a lot of research and YouTube videos it's a really nice and well built clone a lot of people use it with no problems
Yeah, well that may be and may not be..... The reason I say this is because I got a clone one time that almost blew my face off ( I'm serious) .... I purchased the "popular" clone from an American company but come to find out after my accident that the clone actually was made and shipped from China .... Some clones are "fairly" good and mirror the originals pretty good but others can have subtle flaws which are not discovered upon first inspection............. I certainly hope you got a good clone 
.... Some clones are good but some are bad... just be careful..... There are several variables that could contribute to the "lack of punch" from your hits and from the fire switch.
.... Some clones are good but some are bad... just be careful..... There are several variables that could contribute to the "lack of punch" from your hits and from the fire switch.Yeah, well that may be and may not be..... The reason I say this is because I got a clone one time that almost blew my face off ( I'm serious) .... I purchased the "popular" clone from an American company but come to find out after my accident that the clone actually was made and shipped from China .... Some clones are "fairly" good and mirror the originals pretty good but others can have subtle flaws which are not discovered upon first inspection............. I certainly hope you got a good clone
Yeah I got a really nice Cline nice thick metal and threads r buttery smooth it's a 510 not hybrid
It's good to hear about the 510 for sure ..... hybrids suck and cause too many problems when trying to swap RDA's, tanks, etc... So is your new unit not hitting hard enough for you or what? Provide me with more details.
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Well I mean it just seems like the ramp up time is slow that's the main problem I'm just too scared to build lower thank a. 20
hmmmm....you seem like you already know lots about some of the variables facing us vaper's.... There are two variables that affect ramp up time and that is the battery, or the coil ..... Different types of metals produce different ramp-up times and so you may try to experiment with various metals for your coils..........
That's a lot of metal for one battery to get to vaping temps.
You could try it on a regulated device or start changing your coils?
What battery(s) are you using?
name brand & any markings.
.17Ω is drawing near 24a.
What type & gauge wire?
Thinner wire heats faster than thick wire.
Single, dual or some sort of fancy coil(s)?
More metal mass = slower ramp up & cool down.
yea, since it's parallel that's like 28 wraps.
Kanthal 22, 2.5id, 6 FULL wraps would get you to .17 at dual coil. That's 12 wraps total. Much faster ramp up time.
But dude... starting on mechs with such low resistance just seems like begging for trouble.
Kanthal 22, 2.5id, 6 FULL wraps would get you to .17 at dual coil. That's 12 wraps total. Much faster ramp up time.
But dude... starting on mechs with such low resistance just seems like begging for trouble.
Here in lies some problems, I have an Authentic Brass Cartel and have no problems with it, I've tested the Infinite Clone, pretty decent and well built, it still lacks a bit compared to the Authentic (the materials Cartel uses are more refined with less voltage drop), however down to basics and the break down.
1) 0.17ohms <--- This is just absurd, yes I've taken my Authentic down as low as max 30amps of 0.14 back in my super-sub-ohm heyday but to do it you need one of 4 battery models, the old Sony VTC3 (if you can still find any authentic ones though you'll be capping out at 28amps which your 0.17 is about there atm), then there is the LG HB2, HB4, HB6 which are true 30amp @ 1500mah, you might skirt by using Sony VTC5A (2500mah @25amps with one of the best pulse discharges out there), or the Sony VTC4 (2100mah 20 to 23amp CDR). If your battery is a 20amp CDR battery, it just doesn't have the oomph to push a build that low and you are over-stressing the batteries leading to potential venting or thermal runaway as soon as the 30day from purchase mark is reached their CDR due to abuse as this is about at the 50% max range, you are literally cooking and boiling the electrolyte inside changing its intended chemical make up. Lowest absolute safest build on a single battery Mech mod is a 0.25ohm coil, this gives safety room for incase of a pocket autofire or if there is an unintended short of some sort.
2) Ramp up time, though 7wrap dual coil 24awg parallel may not seem much, that is still a lot of wire mass to rapidly heat up, needing raw watts (regulated mod) or in the mech area a carp ton of raw amps to pulse for initial ramp up hard, then shift down to CDR after pulse time to maintain it. You'd be better served with quicker ramp up on the principle of K.I.S.S. with a mech RDA combo build (Keep It Simple Stupid), a 7wrap 24awg standard dual coil will ramp up 2x as fast as the dual parallel build, want to do parallel builds on a mech/rda combo you need to step over to thinner 26awg or 28awg for such builds, 24awg down to thicker 22awg and 20awg just basic dual coils otherwise you are going to be burning up vape time just to heat up those coils everytime, though NiChrome 60 and 80 resistance wire gets hotter quicker and stay hotter long after firing has stopped if you are using Kanthal A1 wire, if you are using SS316L wire you might have to adjust things further. steam-engine.org has a coil build simulator to help you find the right build that will work. Your parallel, massive twisted, fused claptons, alien claptons, and other exotic hand made pretty and extensive wire builds, remember more wire in the coils = slower ramp up time and decrease in battery efficiency in runtime and output.
3) Batteries - Only 3 manufacturers to use, those made by Sony, Samsung, and LG, Sanyo 20700 batteries an exception to this rule, any other battery name (Efest, Hohmtech, Sub-Ohm Cell, AWT, Baisen, IMRen, and a slew of others) are re-wrap companies buying up B and C Bin discards the Big 4 battery manufacturers said did not pass authentic A Bin class standards, put their own wrap on the battery and put a false 35, 40, 45amps ect rating on the battery wrap, and charge you double to triple what the real authentic is worth, really going to put you trust in a sketchy battery that didn't pass muster to begin with and think it can handle such an extremely low build? Not likely. Buy your batteries if in the US/Can/Mex from illumn.com, Liionwholesale.com, imrbatteries.com, RTDVapor.com, or orbtronic.com (these most times are authorized resellers and stand behind they are authentic batteries, any descrepancies they will issue notices to customers about batches they feel suspect).
So in closing, simplify your build, up your resistance in ohms above 0.25ohms, need to be lower then you need a dual battery parallel battery mech box mod and then the absolute lowest build on one of those is 0.14ohms, or you need to move over to a regulated dual battery high wattage mod for such a low build.
I agree with too much mass in coil, try a more basic build at first with a higher resistance and compare. With a single 18650 and with some voltage loss, your just not getting enough power to push all that wire. Personally I would try omitting one coil or if you have to build a dual coil, shoot for 26g wire, maybe 2.5 mm Id coils and build each coil in the .8 range
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