Need info on TC

[AxelKay]

Hey guys.
I've been vaping for a very long time and just now I tried for the very first time TC and TCR... only problem is, I have no clue how it works properly. To be more precise, I'm using an Aspire nautilus 2 with a 0.15 Ni200 and an eleaf istick power 80w 5000mah. (Typically on this mod I run a 0.7 Ω coil at 20w power mode). I've set the temp at 230°C and wattage at 40 but I keep getting a "temp protection " each time I fire it almost right away. If I raise the temp I get burnt taste... Any ideas or suggestions?
cheers!

 

[djsvapour]

Can you manually lower the watts?
I can 100% believe the TC is kicking in instantly at those settings.

 

[AxelKay]

Yes I can. Should I keep it somewhere around 20w at 220°C? I have no idea how it's supposed to work as it should

 

[sofarsogood]

Hey guys.
I've been vaping for a very long time and just now I tried for the very first time TC and TCR... only problem is, I have no clue how it works properly. To be more precise, I'm using an Aspire Nautilus 2 with a 0.15 Ni200 and an eleaf istick power 80w 5000mah. (Typically on this mod I run a 0.7 Ω coil at 20w power mode). I've set the temp at 230°C and wattage at 40 but I keep getting a "temp protection " each time I fire it almost right away. If I raise the temp I get burnt taste... Any ideas or suggestions?
cheers!

"Temp protection" simply means the coil reached the temperature you set so the mod stopped applying power or it reduced power so it doesn't exceed your max temp. Currently I'm vaping an rda with stainles wire in temp control mode at 15 max watts and 360 F max temp. When the wick is freshly saturated the temperature stays well below the max temp low but the full 15 watts are applied. As the wick becomes less saturated the max temp can be reached with 5-6 watts. I have after market firmware on my pico that shows me the max watts and max temp reached after each puff. That's how i can talk about this.

 

[djsvapour]

I use 440 Fahrenheit for everything which is more or less where you are. The lower the watts the less powerfully the mod 'hits' the atomizer. Call it ramp up if that helps.

 

[AxelKay]

I don't know guys... right now I've set it at 15w and 200°C, the puff time is longer but very weak and I get droplets in my mouth (18mg eliquid right now, whereas I normally get a very nice throat hit with a 12mg liquid and 5-7 second long puffs at 20w power mode and 0.7Ω coils)...

 

[djsvapour]

Hmm. I hope you don't suffer the same fate as me. I've yet to get a satisfactory vape off a factory TC coil.
My hardware right now is 430f 38w but I'm dripping. If your coil is not able to wick fast enough you either need to keep the watt setting low (poor vape) or .. Hold on, what sort of power range are the kanthal versions of your coil(s)?

 

[AxelKay]

I'd say the 0.7 ones are 23 watts max. The 1.8 claptons are 9-10 watts (?)

 

[djsvapour]

OK. I found them.

 

[djsvapour]

My opinion. No, they're barely going to work. The design will be unlikely to tolerate much over 20w so if you TC as well, sure you'll protect yourself from high temperatures but your vape will be very limited. It's a double jeopardy. Let's say the non-TC can really do 23w (unlikely) then with no TC kicking in, that's the max. If you are sure your coil is nice and wet, try 20w at higher temp.
It's complicated but either way I can see major limitations.

 

[AxelKay]

So if I end up using 0.17ohm dual SS fused claptons... I'd better run those under power mode instead of TC?

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Nautilus tanks, being mtl aren't the greatest when it comes to "warmth" but from what I found, the coils are:

Resistance: 0.15 Ohms
Wire Type: Nickel (NI-200)
Wick Type: Organic Japanese Cotton
Wattage Compatibility: 20W – 45W

So, as for any coil, always stay under the max wattage by at least 10w, so you should be fine at 35W

In case you need the info, TC works very simply:

1) wattage set = how fast the coil heats up
2) temp set = Stops and pulses the power once your coil reaches the calculated temp that you've set, to keep it at that temp.

Trouble is, if your coil cannot wick properly or fast enough depending on the liquid you use, the liquid is vaporized faster than it wicks, and this means that the coil is no longer getting "cooled" by the liquid flowing, so you get "temp. protection" messages.

If you set the wattage too high, even with temp control it can still be heating fast enough to toast the wick a little bit, and even an itsy-bitsy little bit will give you that delightful burnt taste.

And if you're at 230C, that's a touch high but might be normal for that tank.

 

[AxelKay]

Thanks for the info guys! I greatly appreciate it! I'll report back if I finally get satisfactory results.

 

[djsvapour]

SS works in both power and TC (SS) mode. Try both.
Ideally we should all be using TC. We (now) know even basic coils hit high temperatures. Let's say I used the original nautilus BVC at 12-14 watts (I did) but then I use a temp version. It's not going to give me the same vape. It'll cut me off very soon. Early Eleaf GS airs kicked in instantly as did Subtank Ni200.
Innokin iSub 0.5 kanthal vapes OK at 25w. Use the SS iSub coil (in mode) also at 25w and the vape is very weak.
I could go on for hours.

 

[AxelKay]

SS works in both power and TC (SS) mode. Try both.
Ideally we should all be using TC. We (now) know even basic coils hit high temperatures. Let's say I used the original nautilus BVC at 12-14 watts (I did) but then I use a temp version. It's not going to give me the same vape. It'll cut me off very soon. Early Eleaf GS airs kicked in instantly as did Subtank Ni200.
Innokin iSub 0.5 kanthal vapes OK at 25w. Use the SS iSub coil (in mode) also at 25w and the vape is very weak.
I could go on for hours.

Wow... very disappointing. I guess I'll get back to winding good old nichromes and kanthals xD

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Coils for this tank appears to be quite limited....
You might want to try a few types before you're able to figure what works for you.
I found these that are khantal, but even them, the wattage range is maxed at 23W
Original Aspire Nautilus 2 Coils（5pcs）-9.60 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

So I'd be weary to go over 20-25W with any coils for it...

But note that this is a mtl type tank, so don't expect a lot of clouds or warmth and you can't suck on it very hard either as it's a limited airflow and you'll just end up drying it out faster than the wicking can keep up.....

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Wow... very disappointing. I guess I'll get back to winding good old nichromes and kanthals xD

The thing with Temp control, NI200 works great as it's got a large TCR range, BUT if the coil isn't made "right", the wicking won't keep up regardless of being TC or watt mode.

SS needs enough wire mass to register well and work in TC (but if you do have enough mass, it works quite fine).

Trouble is, I'm not an Aspire fan, especially for the original Nautilus tanks that I simply hated.

Depending on your type of vaping, how much actual vapour you enjoy and how warm you like it, you might need to look at new tanks.

 

[AxelKay]

Coils for this tank appears to be quite limited....
You might want to try a few types before you're able to figure what works for you.
I found these that are khantal, but even them, the wattage range is maxed at 23W
Original Aspire Nautilus 2 Coils（5pcs）-9.60 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

So I'd be weary to go over 20-25W with any coils for it...

But note that this is a mtl type tank, so don't expect a lot of clouds or warmth and you can't suck on it very hard either as it's a limited airflow and you'll just end up drying it out faster than the wicking can keep up.....

I just got the Nautilus 2 a couple of weeks ago just for the ease of use. All my other rebuildables perform outstanding. Even though I don't really like its airflow, I have to admit that I enjoy those 0.7ohm coils.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

IMO the nautilus ni200 heads are extremely fickle.
The nautilus 2 has improved airflow over the standard nautilus.

If you tasted a burnt hit a few times the wicking material closest to the coil is at least singed which reduces the wicking ability & causes frustrations trying to dial in a decent vape.

Prime a new/unused head thoroughly, install in base fill tank let sit, take a few un powered primer puffs.
Set the airflow to wide open.
Be sure it is in Ni Tc mode, Set at 11w - 12w 400f, vape it this way for about half a tank to make sure the head is wicking & allow it to 'break in'.
Turn the Temp up taking a few vapes as you go until you get a semi decent vape. Now turn temp back down to 400f & slowly increase w to find a semi decent vape, probably around 18w - 22w.
Then start raising temp slowly, I found 18.4w - 22w 420f to be a good spot.
Using 50/50 non sweet liquids.
But, if you started off a new head at 20+w & 400f+ I'd be willing to bet the head is fubar.
Always start off low & work your way up.

When or if you get one functioning correctly & broken in without burning the wicking material Ive used them as high as 30w 440f, great vape, not worth the hassle of getting there IMO.

 

[djsvapour]

Wow... very disappointing. I guess I'll get back to winding good old nichromes and kanthals xD

Disappointing is one word.
I've had over 100 TC coils through/in my tanks (mostly gifted) and they are mostly useless. The only conclusion I can draw is you can only really set the watts to about the same as the Kanthal versions. The idea that the manufacturers can 'uprate' them is crazy. You might try running a 20w coil at 40w (trusting in the TC) but then you get a reverse vape. It hits hard for a second (literally) then cuts you down. The opposite is true of usual vaping. If you can bear it, it's great for coil life and peace of mind. Personally, I call it junk gimmicks.
However, throw some TC wire on a rebuildable and you might just get vaping nirvana. Great taste, no dry hits.