NEED Screwdriver troubleshooting HELP

Status
Not open for further replies.

dhowardpeters

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 15, 2010
389
87
Charlotte, NC
Below is an excerpt of an email I sent Trog tonight. I thought I might get quicker help here, what with the time difference:

I've had my 2 screwdrivers (black and silver 510s) for almost 2 weeks. Love them!!! I've been using the silver one A LOT while getting all systems in place before handing the black one over to my husband. I'm almost ready, but, tonight, the silver one stopped working. I used process of elimination to determine that the problem is with the atty end of the casing. (All my attys and batts work great on the black sd and the silver switch end works great screwed onto the black atty end.) The spring and rubber gasket on the inside seem to be solidly in place. The brass disc at the base of the threads on the outside looks the same to me as in the black sd. I thought the silver’s brass disc might be looser at first, but I don’t really think so now that I see it seems to have some flexibility by design. I wondered if it was screwed in because it turns easily, but I didn’t want to mess with it too much for fear of creating more problems. (I don’t have any idea what the structure is between what I can see on the outside and inside.) I tried scraping the brass disc per your (TROG's) suggestion on the screwdriver forum. Are there any other troubleshooting steps I can take with this?:confused:
 

boxhead

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 3, 2009
699
4
66
Chico, california
hey :), do you pull you carts off the atty? i used to, and it caused the alum. ring to shift slightly from the SD body top, trogs commet to me was to put in a vice and squeze.
i did not have a gap visable, but e-liquid got in and the anodizing to alum. eletron path was acting like a rester... i use a c-clamp and wood, squzed it black gunk came out, works like new now.
no visable gap, but juice, trog did not say it was caused by pulling the cart, i came to that conclusion. but trogs vice method worked for me.
 

dhowardpeters

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 15, 2010
389
87
Charlotte, NC
Thank you. That sounds like it might fit my problem. I have been dripping with no cart. I thought the body was sealed for dripping on this new model. Unfortunately, I don't really understand what you are saying to do: i.e, what to squeeze, gap where, etc. Could you elaborate? Or could someone jump in here with pictures?

hey :), do you pull you carts off the atty? i used to, and it caused the alum. ring to shift slightly from the SD body top, trogs commet to me was to put in a vice and squeze.
i did not have a gap visable, but e-liquid got in and the anodizing to alum. eletron path was acting like a rester... i use a c-clamp and wood, squzed it black gunk came out, works like new now.
no visable gap, but juice, trog did not say it was caused by pulling the cart, i came to that conclusion. but trogs vice method worked for me.
 

boxhead

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 3, 2009
699
4
66
Chico, california
yeah, i failed english 1 twice, hehehe

you wont see a gap, it is the part on the SD body top ( atty battery thread ) to the SD body top alumin ring is, the SD body has anodizing, to the alumin. ring, on mine i go thru my carts for the tightest one, and was pulling off to top up, ( now i do a sort of bend back and forth, and hold the atty tube, (is harder on my hands cuz of physcal problem in hands)

a vise is easer to do this,
from trog: it can be the aluminum collete not making good contact with the outer body.. they are a press fit.. a sqeeze in a vice will tell you.. end ways on.. and second reply: its just one of those weird things that can happen.. we are aware of it.. its connected with anodizing not conducting electricity.. it cropped up with some before we became aware of it.. even tho the press fit is very tight the only bit that was doing the business was right at the top.. we clean the anodizing out more effectively now and keep the press fit tighter.. now you know how to fix it just forget about it.. it probably wont happen again...


i used a big c-clamp and two pieces of wood, the wood is to not scratch the SD`s top atty aluminum collete and the bottom edge of the SD top battery compartment threads, i looked with a 10x loop and saw no gap, yet when i pressed the SD top piece a heavy thick black gunk came out, ( did not taste it) hehehe, it was acting like i had a 500 ohm rester i would get about .43 volts with any battery or 5vdc power applied to the SD, a dvm showed infinty on SD center spring and around 489 ohms on the ground side ( SD body to atty threads)
hope this helps, and i never would have got my sd going without trog...
 

dhowardpeters

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 15, 2010
389
87
Charlotte, NC
OK. My husband read your "man-speak" with me and I think I understand what you're saying. HOWEVER, my husband thinks it's a different problem. He says one of the sauters on the internal spring (atty end) has broken free. Any suggestions for that?

BTW, I think it's sealed. I couldn't blow any air through.

also on my two new SD `s, one is sealed, the other i can just get a little whisle of air thru when i blow thru it, and once had changed one battery with a wettnes on it from e-liquid, so i effort a little more on not over fill when top it up.
 
Last edited:

boxhead

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 3, 2009
699
4
66
Chico, california
hrm. i put the battery in the bottom tube positive end first because it seems to let mu use the button with a push up and down instead of in and out - a regulor press on a button.

as far as a broken solder connection, well they did have a massive buy one get one sale and there could have been afew botched solder joints...
first option send it back, second resolder or use that glue that makes a eletrical connections....
a other thought is to strech the spring to force it to seat against the little plate in sets on inside the atty end of SD...

does your husband have ( or you) have a ohm meter? check the SD top spring to atty center post....then atty threads to SD body on the inside of SD body where it screws on to SD lower body...
 

dhowardpeters

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 15, 2010
389
87
Charlotte, NC
Yeah, ours were bought during the buy one get one sale. We've had them 2 weeks. I'm gonna let my hubby read your response and tell me what it means and then maybe ask 50 more questions! You've been very helpful, and I thank you sincerely:)


hrm. i put the battery in the bottom tube positive end first because it seems to let mu use the button with a push up and down instead of in and out - a regulor press on a button.

as far as a broken solder connection, well they did have a massive buy one get one sale and there could have been afew botched solder joints...
first option send it back, second resolder or use that glue that makes a eletrical connections....
a other thought is to strech the spring to force it to seat against the little plate in sets on inside the atty end of SD...

does your husband have ( or you) have a ohm meter? check the SD top spring to atty center post....then atty threads to SD body on the inside of SD body where it screws on to SD lower body...
 

dhowardpeters

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 15, 2010
389
87
Charlotte, NC
Well, life got in the way and we've done nothing more about it today. But, we will! I'm emailing Trog to see if trying to fix it ourselves would void our warranty. If not, we'll probably try to resolder or try the soldering glue. At this point, I'm assuming we've pinpointed the problem. As I said, I can't get any air through it, so I'm assuming it was fully sealed, but I wonder do you think it could have had a leak and gotten gunked up causing it to now seem airtight? BTW, I am a member of the screwdriver forum, but it didn't seem there were many recent posts. Turns out, I wasn't looking past the stickies! I'll post there too.


the real answers are here: ecigscrewdriver.com

althings ScrewDriver.

your welcome. let me know.
 

boxhead

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 3, 2009
699
4
66
Chico, california
yeah, i wondered why only few posts. and why i have been so verbose here, hehehe
i never would think e-liquid would cause a solder joint failure, as to it gunking up to seal...maybe, of the two new ones i have, the one that is sealed, has not been used other than a check for operation) and the older SD(s, one was stolen) one would get a greasy feeling on batts once in a while while the other never, both could not be blown thru....
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread