Nemesis clone experts...please help!

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xtwosm0kesx

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Your lower contact has loosened up (as mentioned above) and the whole switch is unscrewing itself rather than unscrewing from inside the mod. It should be a simple fix and simple to prevent in the future. But be careful and MAKE SURE you dont loose the tiny (grain of rice sized) pin inside the switch, it is relatively important (some claim its not needed i dont agree).

Be back in a few with some pictures to hopefully help remove the switch and prevent the problem from happening again.
 

xtwosm0kesx

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This is what your switch (partially unscrewed) currently looks like if you could see inside the mod:

IMG_1530.jpg

Looking at this picture (with the spring/switch compressed) you can see the exposed threads on the contact pin itself, this is what's causing your issue. Normally this should be screwed all the way down TIGHT to prevent the battery from loosening it as you open/close the mod/change batteries etc

IMG_1531.jpg

These are all the parts of the switch (ignore the non factory spring), take special note of the tiny brass pin, and be careful to not loose it.

IMG_1532.jpg

If you continue to unscrew the switch until the bottom part (button) of the switch comes free, you will likely be left with the middle section of the button assembly sitting inside the mod:

IMG_1533.jpg

Unless its stuck/cross threaded, you should be able to use a fingernail and unscrew it (use the tiny notch for above mentioned pin to help grip) or worst case get a pair of needle nose pliers and grip the interior lip and unscrew it out of the mod.

Then reassemble the switch (tiny pin must be properly oriented in the corresponding notches) and while compressing the spring, use a pair of pliers to snug down the contact pin (silver), this should prevent it from coming loose again due to battery friction/unscrewing.

Hope this will help!

*edit* Ignore the oxgard all over the switch assembly, thats why it looks so dirty.
 

time2quit

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Your lower contact has loosened up (as mentioned above) and the whole switch is unscrewing itself rather than unscrewing from inside the mod. It should be a simple fix and simple to prevent in the future. But be careful and MAKE SURE you dont loose the tiny (grain of rice sized) pin inside the switch, it is relatively important (some claim its not needed i dont agree).

Be back in a few with some pictures to hopefully help remove the switch and prevent the problem from happening again.

Much appreciated. Thank you!
 

time2quit

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This is what your switch (partially unscrewed) currently looks like if you could see inside the mod:

View attachment 328375

Looking at this picture (with the spring/switch compressed) you can see the exposed threads on the contact pin itself, this is what's causing your issue. Normally this should be screwed all the way down TIGHT to prevent the battery from loosening it as you open/close the mod/change batteries etc

View attachment 328376

These are all the parts of the switch (ignore the non factory spring), take special note of the tiny brass pin, and be careful to not loose it.

View attachment 328377

If you continue to unscrew the switch until the bottom part (button) of the switch comes free, you will likely be left with the middle section of the button assembly sitting inside the mod:

View attachment 328379

Unless its stuck/cross threaded, you should be able to use a fingernail and unscrew it (use the tiny notch for above mentioned pin to help grip) or worst case get a pair of needle nose pliers and grip the interior lip and unscrew it out of the mod.

Then reassemble the switch (tiny pin must be properly oriented in the corresponding notches) and while compressing the spring, use a pair of pliers to snug down the contact pin (silver), this should prevent it from coming loose again due to battery friction/unscrewing.

Hope this will help!

*edit* Ignore the oxgard all over the switch assembly, thats why it looks so dirty.

Great display you have shown. As soon as my daughter is off to Girl Scouts, I will give it a shot. I must admit...I'm a little concerned about that pin. Being able to put it back where it belongs. I'll give it a shot though, and see what happens. Thanks again guys!
 

xtwosm0kesx

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Great display you have shown. As soon as my daughter is off to Girl Scouts, I will give it a shot. I must admit...I'm a little concerned about that pin. Being able to put it back where it belongs. I'll give it a shot though, and see what happens. Thanks again guys!

Its not bad at all to get it back in there/reassembled, but i constantly live in fear of loosing it every time.

These may help:

Set the tiny pin in its slot on the button:

IMG_1534.jpg

Install spring taking care not to dislodge pin from slot:

IMG_1535.jpg

Align the notch on the middle section of button with the pin/notch on the button, and slide onto shaft compressing spring in process:

IMG_1536.jpg

Then while holding the whole assembly together, with the spring compressed, screw in the contact pin and snug it down with pliers:

IMG_1539.jpg
 

time2quit

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Its not bad at all to get it back in there/reassembled, but i constantly live in fear of loosing it every time.

These may help:

Set the tiny pin in its slot on the button:

View attachment 328393

Install spring taking care not to dislodge pin from slot:

View attachment 328398

Align the notch on the middle section of button with the pin/notch on the button, and slide onto shaft compressing spring in process:

View attachment 328399

Then while holding the whole assembly together, with the spring compressed, screw in the contact pin and snug it down with pliers:

View attachment 328401

Wow your fear has become my reality. I unscrewed the bottom, and there is no pin. Must have fallen out at some point. It still fires without the pin however. Kind of odd huh?
2equmy7e.jpg


Now, I still can't get this bottom piece out. I'll try with some needle nose and see how it goes...
a9ygy3uz.jpg


Any idea where I can get a new pin? Should I not fire it without it? Thanks again...big time!
 

xtwosm0kesx

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Wow your fear has become my reality. I unscrewed the bottom, and there is no pin. Must have fallen out at some point. It still fires without the pin however. Kind of odd huh?

Now, I still can't get this bottom piece out. I'll try with some needle nose and see how it goes...
Any idea where I can get a new pin? Should I not fire it without it? Thanks again...big time!

Bummer, but not a mod ender. The purpose of the pin is to allow you to easily unscrew the switch from the tube, without it the bottom section of the button (part you press) will likely just spin inside the middle section (part that contacts the mod body).

If will still fire fine/be safe, many people are able to get by without it (also claiming it reduces button crunchiness) but its makes it much more difficult to get the switch out/adjust for different batteries.

As mentioned above, a piece of a coat hanger may work, i've also see others mention a piece of 18 gauge blunt needle cut to length.
 
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time2quit

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Yeah, that's the problem...I can't unscrew bottom section. It drives me nuts not being able to get the switch out. I really like a "flush" mod, and because of this it's not happening. I'm not sure if I will send this to the classifieds. I don't want to, but damn it's been a headache! Lol Thanks again for your time!
 

xtwosm0kesx

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Yeah, that's the problem...I can't unscrew bottom section. It drives me nuts not being able to get the switch out. I really like a "flush" mod, and because of this it's not happening. I'm not sure if I will send this to the classifieds. I don't want to, but damn it's been a headache! Lol Thanks again for your time!

Lol, well i found a temporary solution for ya that may very well top the 'ghetto rigged' charts.

It appears a piece of standard sized spaghetti (~2mm) fits in the notch and actually works about the same as the original pin.

No idea how long it will last but it will get ya up and running for now, while you investigate a different fix, such as the coat-hanger one. Keep in mind the clone's switch is identical to the legit original nemmy, and once you snug down the contact, this issue you've had shouldn't ever happen again.

I've been playing with the 'spaghetti button' for a few minutes and haven't had any issues yet.:blink:
 

bsoplinger

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If you have a traditional hobby shop, the sort that has models and carries paint, they will likely have brass rod in various diameters, comes in 1 foot lengths. That would give you a brass replacement. fatdaddyvapes, which sells switch magnets, also offers a bunch (6 maybe, don't remember exact quantity) of the rice pins.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
 

xtwosm0kesx

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Haha! That's great! So...do you think that will enable me to be able to screw off that bottom part?

Hmm, well it will likely be impossible to properly reassemble the switch with the middle section still in the tube, but i may have come up with another way to get that piece out.

Try sticking either a butter or steak knife into the center hole of the section stuck inside the mod, making sure one of the edges is inside the pin's notch, apply gentle pressure and try to back it out of the mod:

IMG_1540.jpg
 

time2quit

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Hmm, well it will likely be impossible to properly reassemble the switch with the middle section still in the tube, but i may have come up with another way to get that piece out.

Try sticking either a butter or steak knife into the center hole of the section stuck inside the mod, making sure one of the edges is inside the pin's notch, apply gentle pressure and try to back it out of the mod:

View attachment 328426

I was able to get the switch out using a pair of needle nose pliers "in reverse"

I reassembled everything, and it's working well. The only problem is, being that there is no pin, I can't unscrew it again (without the pliers) when I change battery size. But hey, it's working...thanks to your efforts! I'm going to hang on to this mod and you with it. I did however order a brass stingray clone by "infinite" I've heard really good things about it. I also have a Kamry K101 in the mail for "out and about" purposes. Any experience with either?
 

porkchopbun

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I have cheapie Fasttech Stingrray polished one and I like it lot, so I'm only assuming yours will be much better. It comes with magnet switch already, but I will still take apart and clean it and then use some kind of lubricant that conducts electricty well. I think you can do search on it.

I'm one of the few peeps that didn't start out with K100/101...I went straight into Nemmy, Magneto, and Chi you...let's say my magneto just sits and stares at me, yes I bought all three at once...now I'm like whatever...if I like the design and I can work with it..I'll tinker with it..

So not much out there I'm interested in these days..until I see more reviews on the Cloned 20/30 watter chips for the regulated devices coming out, I might save up for authentic Nemmy, Stingrays are out of the question..since flippers are on them like if they were like limited editions Jordans
 

xtwosm0kesx

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I was able to get the switch out using a pair of needle nose pliers "in reverse"

I reassembled everything, and it's working well. The only problem is, being that there is no pin, I can't unscrew it again (without the pliers) when I change battery size. But hey, it's working...thanks to your efforts! I'm going to hang on to this mod and you with it. I did however order a brass stingray clone by "infinite" I've heard really good things about it. I also have a Kamry K101 in the mail for "out and about" purposes. Any experience with either?

You're gonna love the stingray, especially the infinite version (have read nothing but good things about their clones). I recently received a brushed version from fasttech (unknown manufacturer, likely tobecco) and i've been greatly impressed by it. It also has less voltage drop than the SS nemmy (obv, given its brass).
 
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