Nemesis clone get hot

[rez667]

So.. Since the chat room is kaputski for the time being, I must resort to the forums Lucky you ;-) My SS Nemmy clone, gets hot around the joint, and firing button when i fire it. I have a .22 ohm dual coil setup in it. I also checked the voltage drop, and its almost 1 volt. I checked for shorts on the mod, and cant find any, and I have used this rda on my Copper nemmy with no issues (with same battery). Any ideas what might be happening?

Thanks for any input.

-Rez

Oh.. I am using a purple efest 35A battery. It has 4.02V by itself, and when on the nemmy in question it reads 3.1-3.2V.

 

[classwife]

Moved to APV Discussion from Model Specific Discussion - E-Cigar models

 

[JmanEspresso]

Disassemble the switch and the mod, and clean it to a showroom finish. Dirty threads are the bane of any Nemesis owners existence, and if you're not getting good conductivity through the tubes and the switch housing, it can cause the junctions of the tubes and the switch at the threads, to get hot.


It could also be the battery. The Purple Efests are good, Ive been pushing mine pretty hard and they do a great job.. but you never know, maybe you got a bad one. I personally really like the RED Efest 30amp 18650s as my main subohm battery, with secondary likes for the Purple 35a, the Sony VTC(x), and ol' faithful, the AW IMR 18650 1600mah.

 

[Kgb424]

My Nemesis got hot once too, But it was my fault, I put a new coil in my Kayfun and I guess I forgot, to double or triple check like I normal do, that the coil was not touching both the negative and positive and it shorted and melted the isolators in my Kayfun, I pulled the battery out and it was fine, I bought new replacement isolators and the Kayfun is fine, that scared the #### out of me, I thought I put the battery in backwards, but no I fried my Kayfun, when I put in the coil, I thought I adjusted it, but I didn't, I filled her up, and soon as went to Vape it, the mod got hot instantly, and it Scared me, because people talk about mods having vent holes in case the battery goes south, and I then realized I'm holding a bomb up to my mouth and are holding it in my hand, cause I have seen R/C cars go up in flames and exploded, when they put a hole in a lipo battery. It ain't nothing nice, when they go south with a bang and a fire, Its bad

 

[crxess]

Likely poor maintenance. As suggested. Fully clean and retest. .22 puts a lot of strain on things and any weak area will heat quickly.

 

[p7willm]

Noalox helps conductivity if you put a SMALL amount on the threads. Also, take it apart and clean every join.

 

[Phone Guy]

Noalox helps conductivity if you put a SMALL amount on the threads. Also, take it apart and clean every join.

Beat me to it. I was having the same problem with my nemesis. using a sony vtc5 battery and a dual coil .3 ohm total.... the polished ring joining the 2 tubes was getting hot and so was the fire button.... plus the fire button was a little "catchy" so I took it all apart did a half a$$ed cleaning and lubed up all the threads (*ALL THE THREADS*) with a little bit on noalox from home depot ($2.50?). I used a qtip as a little goes a long way. Solved my problems, and made the switch stop sticking. Just dont lube the locking ring, thats a mistake.

I'd like to get less voltage drop... but I'm not sure thats going to happen without buying a coppper mod or maybe a newer better mod??

 

[crxess]

I'd like to get less voltage drop... but I'm not sure thats going to happen without buying a coppper mod or maybe a newer better mod??

Hmmm............... .3ohm coils. If you still need to reduce v-drop with the VTC5's you might need copper center pins on the toppers.

People always seem to forget the topper as a possible restriction, and I have seen some Bad ones.

 

[Phone Guy]

Hmmm............... .3ohm coils. If you still need to reduce v-drop with the VTC5's you might need copper center pins on the toppers.

People always seem to forget the topper as a possible restriction, and I have seen some Bad ones.

I'm using a Helios right now, its a clone and I think its brass center pin and posts... I was having some connection issues with the posts and the kanthal, so I got out my little dremmel and some diamond bits and kind of slightly opened the wire holes in the posts just a tiny bit, solved that issue, then I sanded the 510 pin on the bottom and got the chrome or silver plating (whatever it was) off took it to bare brass (again, I'm assuming brass) and that helped a lot with the resistance bouncing when metering it with my volt/ohms meter..... now its solid .3 or whatever the resistance is.... I rebuilt it the other day and I think I added a wrap or two, its either .4 or .5, I have to check it again.