Nemesis delayed firing

[TenderWalnut]

Ok I have two clones from FT the one I ma'am having issues with is what I consider the "good" clone. Recently I got a new kayfun and decided I'd screw around with it and a kick I have but rarely use. You know just trying to get my money's worth on something I think is worthless since I primarily sub-ohm. Anyway, it started to fire slowly. (oh and by the way I was running exactly at 1.5Ohm) Almost like it had to "warm up". The vape sucked cause it took forever and was inconsistent at best. I gave up on using the kick and decided to re-wrap the kayfun 3.1 at 0.5. Long story short the mod still fires on a significant delay. I took it apart tonight and wiped the connections and just kinda checked everything out. I used several atomizers to compare and whether I put it on a Private V2, Sentinel, or the other Nemesis as soon as I swapped it to this Nemesis it was like turning a hand crank to get any current. Slow and unimpressive the is the best way to describe it.

Please help me figure out wth is going on here because I have no idea what to do. Oh I am using some craptacular magnets on the switch from FT and thought that might have something to do with it because the other Nemmy is just the plain old spring and works great with any atty.

Thanks

 

[classwife]

Moved to APV Discussion

 

[k2zs]

Sounds like poor conduction in the mod. Is it sectional or a single tube? Does the mod get warm? Does the switch use a spring or magnets?

Without more info the best I can suggest is taking the switch and top cap apart and making sure everything is clean and in good condition. With sectional mods, make sure all your threading is clean, maybe a little Noalox would help...

 

[TenderWalnut]

It is a stainless steel Nemesis in 18650 mode so there is a top cap, two threaded tubes of stainless steel that connect to form the body, and a bottom switch. As I said in the original post I am using magnets in the switch instead of a spring. The mod does occasionally get warm, but not hot. I suspect it is a conductivity issue also, but I am looking for a more precise answer from someone who has experienced this with their Nemesis or other mod and been able to overcome and fix the issue.

Update: I switched out the magnets and put back in the old springs. The bottom firing cap was getting a little warm before I did this and I thought it might have been cause I was pressing it so often, but now the bottom switch is getting noticeably warm when I fire. I am at a loss here any help is appreciated.

 

[crxess]

Not that you have Wiped it................

Take it apart and actually clean it. Likely this is also why your Kick would not work properly.
Wipe everything with alcohol
Disassemble switch and clean thoroughly
Clean all threading

I have 5 of my 9 Nemesis Mods running Kicks/Kayfuns flawlessly between 1.35ohm and 1.7ohm.

Yes, I have to keep them up. Our environment can be harsh on connection surfaces and Best performance means frequent care.

Good luck!

 

[TenderWalnut]

I failed to mention that by "wiped it down" I meant I removed the bottom assembly, disassembled it and used multiple alcohol swabs and q-tips to wipe everything from contact all the way to the spring and the ....... pin even. I repeated that today because it still is not firing correctly and gets hot. I also used the bottom switch from my other nemesis and it worked just fine. I have no idea what the deal is. I may just buy another bottom switch because it is unusable otherwise.

 

[k2zs]

The switch is what I hated about my Nemesis Clone. I think I used it one day and benched it. No mater what I did I couldn't get it to work smoothly but it never got warm. IMO I think you'd be better off chalking that one up as a loss and try a different manufacturer. Mine was a no name B&M clone so I have no idea who made it...

 

[Kevin littell]

Not that you have Wiped it................

Take it apart and actually clean it. Likely this is also why your Kick would not work properly.
Wipe everything with alcohol
Disassemble switch and clean thoroughly
Clean all threading

I have 5 of my 9 Nemesis Mods running Kicks/Kayfuns flawlessly between 1.35ohm and 1.7ohm.

Yes, I have to keep them up. Our environment can be harsh on connection surfaces and Best performance means frequent care.

Good luck!

I will add that the contact in the switch end needs to be screwed ALL the WAY into the switch.....THIS IS NOT an adjustable contact.


I also put a teeeny teeeny tiny amount of DI-electric grease in the pin channel. (just a dab will over do it.) which frees up the switch.


If you tube threads are getting dark take a small piece of cardboard and use it to polish the threads,( Don't look at me crazy like that!!! Try it! It'll take them down to shiny metal without removing alot of material!!!)

I clean and inspect the whole mod every time I change the battery. It saves me from surprises.Usually a paper towel is all I need to make it all shiny again.


There should be NO heat from anywhere other then the Atomizer. NONE.....if there is you need to clean something.

Good luck!

PS Mine is a copper clone.....FT cheapo......It took 2 weeks for the switch to smooth out (and boy howdy did it.) Unless this particular clone has a funky top pin setup (shouldnt be any springs in it) this is one of the easiest mods to make right...... I'm now looking for an original Nemesis and an original Caravella to purchase. if 22 dollar cheap Chinese mods work this well the originals should ROCK!

 

[Ryedan]

I failed to mention that by "wiped it down" I meant I removed the bottom assembly, disassembled it and used multiple alcohol swabs and q-tips to wipe everything from contact all the way to the spring and the ....... pin even. I repeated that today because it still is not firing correctly and gets hot. I also used the bottom switch from my other nemesis and it worked just fine. I have no idea what the deal is. I may just buy another bottom switch because it is unusable otherwise.

You have contact surfaces in the switch assembly that are dirty causing heat. Here's a 'schematic' of the circuit;

With the springs installed, they make a second path between the button and the brass part.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Mechmods from APV Discussion

 

[Wraith504]

I will say that once cleaned and the switch sanded down a bit with magnets my nemmy fires flawlessly every time. The mod or switch should NEVER get hot. The 510 will get warm because of heat transfer from the atty that part is normal. If your switch or mod is getting hot, you have arching, poor conductivity, or a short somewhere.

 

[Steve Elms]

It's dirty. The inside of the switch is difficult to clean, especially in the grooves where the little pin goes. The newer Nemesis' (Nemi ?) have three little pins to help with conductivity.

 

[Ryedan]

It's dirty. The inside of the switch is difficult to clean, especially in the grooves where the little pin goes. The newer Nemesis' (Nemi ?) have three little pins to help with conductivity.

Those little pins don't have to conduct. People have replaced lost pins with wood or plastic and have not had any issues. In my picture, the middle leg of the circuit is what counts.

 

[duc916]

Those little pins don't have to conduct. People have replaced lost pins with wood or plastic and have not had any issues. In my picture, the middle leg of the circuit is what counts.

Yup, they're not for conducting electricity at all. They're guide pins that keep the switch actuation straight, enabling you to push the button from the side and still have it move straight up and down.