New 510 and RM2

[Danrogers]

this isn't a big deal for me but with the new 510 can I get my RM2 to sit flush. I got the air hole were I want it and that was great and easy. Is it just a matter of lowering the pin?

Edit: both the Reo and Rm2 are LP.

 

[Kh888]

You can definitely raise or lower the pin depending on where you want the air hole. It is likely you can get it to sit flush, but if not, a small o-ring will take up the gap. For some reason, I like having an o-ring on all of mine. Needed? Probably not, but personal preference. One more reason to love REOs!

 

[Debadoo]

Do you mean you have the air hole where you have it on the atty itself, or once you screw the atty on the reo? If you mean you have the airhole where you want it after the atty is on the reo, then of course, adjusting the pin up or down will change that a bit, but as kh888 said, using an o ring could maybe get it back where you want it. I personally don't want an atty to sit completely flush, I like a very small gap just to have enough room so that tightening it down won't have a chance of marring the finish.

Bear in mind I'm still fairly new at this, so if there is something I'm not getting about your ? I'm sure someone will come educate us both hehehe

 

[Rule62]

Once you turn the pin to the left as far as it will go, that's as low as it will get. There are some attys that still won't sit completely flush. Some attys have 510 connectors that are a little bit long, and will bottom out before they are flush. I'm sure that when Rob designed the new style 510 adjustable connectors, he had to choose a happy medium, as far as depth. I don't have an RM2, so I don't know. But I do have a couple RM4s, and they too have slightly longer 510s, and do not sit flush. I generally use an o ring under the atty, to take up the space. The o ring also has the added benefit of taking the stress off the 510 connections, in the event of a drop.

 

[Debadoo]

There are some attys that still won't sit completely flush. Some attys have 510 connectors that are a little bit long, and will bottom out before they are flush. I'm sure that when Rob designed the new style 510 adjustable connectors, he had to choose a happy medium, as far as depth.

Jup, I forgot that part.

 

[redeyedancer]

If you have a small round point file you can adjust the rm2 center post turning it to the right will move the center post in the rm2 inward . If you go to far this will decrease the amount of juice flow keep that in mind

 

[Robinowitz]

Hmmm..this thread has my wheels turning. I'm not sure I have mastered the new 510/RM3 (non-LP) on my mini. Sometimes there is a slight bit of juice that collects at the bottom that seeps ever so slightly to the outside of the atty. Yet sometimes after I clean,
build, and re-set the atty, no seepage. I thought I might be over squonking but not sure my technique changes. I've tried with and without oring but no definitive change. The atty seems flush but now I'm wondering. Does the RM3 have the same pin as the 2. It's not a huge deal, just curious.

 

[Joules_Verne]

Hmmm..this thread has my wheels turning. I'm not sure I have mastered the new 510/RM3 (non-LP) on my mini. Sometimes there is a slight bit of juice that collects at the bottom that seeps ever so slightly to the outside of the atty. Yet sometimes after I clean,
build, and re-set the atty, no seepage. I thought I might be over squonking but not sure my technique changes. I've tried with and without oring but no definitive change. The atty seems flush but now I'm wondering. Does the RM3 have the same pin as the 2. It's not a huge deal, just curious.

I have 2 A6 atties self-modded to BF (RM3 a-likes) mounted on original 510 connectors, one is tight as a drum, the other weeps a little round the base of the atty. Found the way to fix the weepy one is to loosen the O-rings on the base when cleaning/re-wicking. This fixes the weeping (for a while). Tried putting a thread of floss under the O-rings but it was too tight with that in place.

 

[Robinowitz]

I have 2 A6 atties self-modded to BF (RM3 a-likes) mounted on original 510 connectors, one is tight as a drum, the other weeps a little round the base of the atty. Found the way to fix the weepy one is to loosen the O-rings on the base when cleaning/re-wicking. This fixes the weeping (for a while). Tried putting a thread of floss under the O-rings but it was too tight with that in place.

Thank you! When you say "loosen" do you stretch the oring out a bit?

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Thank you! When you say "loosen" do you stretch the oring out a bit?

Might be two different leaking issues...

1. Leaking at the 510 connection. With the new 510, a good idea is to tighten it up quite well. A variance in how tight you seat it from one mounting to the next would explain your intermittent leaking if that's where it's happening.

2. Leaking from the cap. I believe this is what Joules is referencing, but (like you) I'm not exactly sure what he means by loosening. I've personally never had a RM3 leak at the cap (I've had 4 of them).

 

[Joules_Verne]

Might be two different leaking issues...

1. Leaking at the 510 connection. With the new 510, a good idea is to tighten it up quite well. A variance in how tight you seat it from one mounting to the next would explain your intermittent leaking if that's where it's happening.

2. Leaking from the cap. I believe this is what Joules is referencing, but (like you) I'm not exactly sure what he means by loosening. I've personally never had a RM3 leak at the cap (I've had 4 of them).

What Papa_L says for 1.
2. I was referring to the two O-rings on the base, where the cap seats down - this is where one of my two RM3-alikes leaks, not a lot but noticeable after a while (more of a weep, not a leak)
When I take the cap off to dry-burn/re-wick, I put a sewing-needle under each O-ring and run it around the base, not stretching but re-seating if you like. This fixes the 'weeping' for a good while - it's probably down to inconsistent manufacture of the O-rings - mine are clones after all.
If it was too annoying I would probably look to replace the O-rings.
I have two in daily use with 2x1.6ohm 1.6mm ID TMC coils for net 0.8ohms wicked with Shiseido cotton, one with homemade RY4 mix and one with NT Virus and they perform great.
They stay on their LP grands except for re-coiling and that's 2-3months or more.

 

[Joules_Verne]

Quote - One other note - the o-rings on the single coil version appear to be a tad thinner than on the dual coil version. They are a different colour (white as opposed to red on my two units) and the cap is much looser with the white rings on the single.

I know there have been some comments about the looseness which I wondered about since my original dual cap fit so snuggly. Unquote

Found the above from Papa_L comments on RM3 Aug 1st 2014, I think he has put his finger on my problem, at least - my O-rings are white on originally single-coil clone.
And just noticed OP query was RM2 related - sorry for thread drift !

 

[Robinowitz]

Thank you Papa and Joules for thorough info. Since it's more like seeping from the base, I'll tighten it down.

And yes! My apologies for de-railing the thread (thank you Jueles for your diplomatic note on that).

Back to the regularily scheduled program on RM2's......

 

[Danrogers]

LOL...LOL