I just built my fourth wick and coil. It's been just a week since my first. I'm using an aga-t+ and got the courage to start from eHumans blog posts. I purchased a 12x12 inch square of #400 stainless and a 100' roll of 32 gauge kanthal to start with. I had watched a few videos and taken the time to read as much as I could about wicking the aga-t and the different ways to roll a coil. Below are my thoughts and hopefully they will not only help the OP, but any one else new to setting this Genesis atomizer up for the first few times.
First and foremost its important that you read the thread by "Petar K". I don't follow his method with the hollow wicks, but his coil method works well. Second read the eHuman blog regarding the aga-t, yes, the one to have to read, about opportunities ( actually 2 posts ). His wicks and method for rolling them work well.
Now my thoughts. After trying both methods I've come up with a hybrid method derived from the two methods above. I use Petar K's method for making the coil first. Follow his info and get your coil set up well and firing evenly. Then follow eHumans method to build your wick. Not necessarily the dimensions, but its a start.
What I've found the secret (for me at least ) to be is the fit of the wick within the coil and the amount of wicking potential for the wick. Petar's coil method gets you set up with a decent coil then adjust your wick diameter after using eHumans wick method so the wick fits tightly (as in, make sure its really round, well oxidized, trimmed to a length only slightly higher than the top coil on your coil) then paying attention to which way the end seam is laying, twist the wick as if threading it into the coil. Not necessarily in a clockwise direction, you want the trailing edge of the seam passing from the closed side to the open side through the coil. It should be a bitc.....h to get it started without bending your coil all up. After checking ohms upon getting it to the bottom check where the seam is. As eHuman says, you don't want it under the positive leg of the coil, somewhere between the negative screw and where the top coil separates from the wick is much better.
No matter where you end up with your ohms burn it a while, twist it and free it by lifting, lowering and and re setting for about a tank or whatever. Again taking care not to stretch or deform your nice round coil.
Next I found, after starting with a 2.6 ohm coil with a hot top leg, I simply unwound a wrap at a time, carefully, from the top down until my coil wound up at 1.3 ohms. Since I'd burned a tank through it and it had a hot too leg it stayed nice and tight to the coil with a nice amount of spring tension, alleviating another,or many more hot spots.
With my previous wicks and coils, the top leg would end up being well deformed after a day of trying to fix hot spots. With my hybrid method I'll build my coils with a higher ohm reading than desired, then use the coil for a tank, then unravel the coil to lower the resistance after it has seasoned a bit.
This wick and coil has been rock solid since yesterday .morning, the one time this afternoon I started getting a hot spot a simple twist of the wick cured it in a few seconds and no poking coils and screwing up the whole coil.
Maybe this sounds like a bunch of crap to someone who has built 200 wicks and coils for gennies, but from a new guy to another, I'm super happy with the way its working, wicking, heating and its stability. Hope I can do this again when I need to, but so far its lasted twice as long as any previous setup and the ease of hot spot elimination and resistance adjustment is a winner for me. Hopefully you as well.
Good luck and keep vapin'.
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