New Atomizer Coil Shape

[Vaporer]

Everything is mm on the ecig stuff. Tubing, threads all of it.
It's all foreign made, most likely Chinese, and that's the standard like the rest of the world.
We are one of the few exceptions in measuring units. Most in the US will post in mm so its an easy thing for a "world" understandable post.
Online converters are easy to find and use................

If you need to drill and tap something, you can usually get a drill in or standards that's just shy and the proper mm tap or die will work.

 

[hova]

yeah im an automotive tech , so i am well aware that i need to pick up a metric pipe wrench for this job...

anywho , i was referring to paying 20% for that fancy red jobby you got there dan...all made up and what not... let me know if youre willing to part...a green one would be loverly too...


im going to be looking locally for some nichrome , and a few things , i have an idea , but im still working on finding the right battery... im wondering if it wouldnt be prudent to just solder the atomizer coil directly to the ic pins , that way you could make up 4 or 5 at a time , and just open the unit up , unplug the coil , and plug a new coil in...

sort of like a breadboard , just without the board ... know what i mean?


im thinking the fob idea is probably going to be the best way to do it , and i am going to get some stock imagery of power connectors , and see if maybe that regular barrel connector would do the trick...


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

Yea, thats exactly the idea. If you remove the pins from the black socket, the bottom stem plugs into the top holes perfectly.
So, all you need to do in mount 1 set in the atty (soldered to the power leads) and the rest are just quick plug in replacements.
Make for fast swapping and they are quick to make.
I think I have a pic of them on here showing the socket and then one plugged into the other.

I have a tendency to over explain things sometimes, but when you have readers at all levels interested, they get a good feel of something they aren't familiar with, and what it will take to do it. Many more will be willing to try and its "old hat" to the experienced.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...3-attn-atomizer-rebuilders-13.html#post515895

 

[hova]

yeah I remember seeing something like that to hack a console...

I read it before ,but I didn't realize that's what you were doing....


pics!1

-hov

 

[Scubabatdan]

i havent even checked to see what the dimensions on a 901 are... id imagine 1/4" is pretty close... i might have a spare carto laying around still , ill pm ya in a little bit...

-hov

I use a 1/4" for 901's, and 510's and they work fine. 1/4" is also the size for the mouthpiece for a 901 and 510.
Dan

 

[hova]

so im going to look back over some of the first posts , but i was just looking around on the interwebs , and came across some people talking about how silver solder still melts too low blah blah blah , and i was just wondering if , when you tested a custom coil , did you notice the solder getting hot enough even to cloud up ?

if so i was thinking maybe the ic socket pins are going to be the way to go , iirc theres a little cup at the top you could use them for crimp on coil plugs...


just seeing what was up with the silver solder deal....what are you modders up to this monday?can you tell i have the day off?

-hov

 

[Vaporer]

I dont have any issues with the silver solder. I make a good physical connection though too. I've never noticed any solder degradation using it. If you did a side by side joint with just 2 wires, you might encounter an issue. Especially with HV.

Any connector either the IC pin, the crimp style, some have used 18 or 20ga needles (seems expensive) puts enough mass at the end to heat sink it and you shouldn't have a problem with 4-6% silver solder.

 

[hova]

yeah i remember seeing something that looked like tiny tiny cups on a stick , which is what im looking for... i remember there used to be ic's with round hole pins , but i dont recall where those were...


i just looked back through your pics on the g120 page and saw that you used what looks like micro nana jacks that were crimped...


=hov

 

[Vaporer]

Kelemvor, is using the crimp ones.

The pic the link takes you to I posted should show an IC socket with round pins. Then there are a couple removed to show how they plug into each other.
When you mount 2, you can make the coil and solder them into the cups w/holes(top) and just plug the coil in.
They are actually hollow all the way down to the smallest dia on the bottom of the pin. The smallest dia is solid so the middle section is actually hollow too. They dont have to be so tall that way.

 

[Vaporer]

Here is what I was referring to using the IC sockets for and easy plug replacement atty coil. This is a G120 Cigar carto.
1st I drilled the original holes in the clear removable cup a bit larger for the IC pin dia middle, inserted and soldered the power leads to the bottom. Then put the cup into back in. Now you can easily see the quick change feature. I made a new coil using the same pins from the same IC socket and soldered the nichrome in the holes. These could be crimped if you desired. If you look close I cut part of the coil pins top off for a lower profile. This just assures the coil wont hit the filler material and burn it. There is a high ledge on part of the cup. The coil should be below this. You can leave the pin full length and just recess the filler a little. You lose very little capacity doing this and its worth it IMO to gain the quick change feature.

Another important thing that should be noticed is the wick material itself. This was a well used wick that was used for rebuilding. Notice the white area in the center. This is where the original coil wire was wrapped and was heavily carboned. I washed it and removed the carbon with my finger nail while rinsing. The important thing to realize is that it is not burnt at all! All of the carbon came from burnt juice. This material is stiffer than the silica rope as it wants to "spring" back straight. The silica is more "mushier" for lack of a better description. Although it should still work fine. The factory material reminds me more of a fiberglass. No, the insulation type used in homes that produces the tiny harmful dust like pieces. I have a piece of fiberglass woven cloth used for repairing boats and such and it looks very similar with the same characteristics.

Hope this helps with some ideas.

 

[Vaporer]

I posted the G120 here too as this method can be applied to many attys.

I have no problems with the silica burning. When wet, the "mushier", I described would need to be inserted maybe a little more material so that it touches the filler. It lacks the springiness of the GreenCig wick.

You can get those IC sockets in bags of 10, 20 cheap from abt any of the electronic surplus places.

GreenCig seems to be the only company I've torn down so far that uses the loop style with the Kim One (disposable) ecig being the only exception.

As I stated earlier there seems to be 3 basic types. The mesh(510, 801 & 901's), then its cartomizers and one is naturally the GreenCig "Loop" and then many brands of cartos use the sock. All sock types seem to burn badly.
GreenCig still impresses me with their design. They use it in their cartomizers too for the ecigs.

I have torn down both the ecig and stogie we discussed from www.myfreedomsmokes.com and replaced the coils. I have some photos, not of everything I do, unless I plan on using it for a tutorial or an example.
The ecig is a Kim One. It uses the loop like the G120.
The stogie "Disposable" (is all thats on the label) uses a filler cart that pushes down on a mesh type atty bridge. They both will just push out the end with the LED once the cap is removed. The stogie is basically to units. A battery with the LED soldered to the end and then a few wires to a plastic housing with a metal bottom. The top pops out of the plastic housing allowing access to the coil. Its not a regular mesh atty. Pretty unique setup. The plastic ring comes out and then is a ring of mesh that lifts out, including the bridge exposing the coil. Its all contact mesh fed. The sensor circuitry is in the metal housing. Never had to open it up.
I didn't look real hard at the stogie, but I don't remember a reason that the coil couldn't be made a "hot swap" style.

I have no problem making evenly spaced coils. The one in the pic was a quick one for the pic. It does work well though. Smaller isnt necessarily better. A lot depends on on the atty style.

Over wrapping a coil adds dead thermal mass, the liquid & wick, that will need to be heated hot enough to vaporize externally. I don't see any advantage. Mods with bigger batteries and HV user may find it will work. Stock penstyle batteries are just puny. They arent really putting out 3.7v under a load either.

I think I answered all the questions. lol

 

[dk2]

Sorry newbie question I'm concerned about filler material myself, I'm a dripper and as such have removed the bridge and threads on some of my atties and just direct drip right on the coil. The coil heats up and vaporises the liquid. Why not just design an atty reservoir with a huge ceramic bowl that doesn't leak. Why is everyone concerned with wicking? I say forget the wick show me a carto that just has a coil and ceramic bowl that holds three mls of juice.

 

[Vaporer]

Why not just design an atty reservoir with a huge ceramic bowl that doesn't leak.

My honest answer would be " because I don't want one".

Actually, it wouldn't be that hard to do. I recently kinda got into dripping with my Buzz vari volt PV. Great hit.
Many have squeeze bottle designs that work well. Some have used micro medical pumps for a metered feed. If the right materials are used and tolerances kept tight leaking should be a rare occurrence.

You dont see many, if any, factory ceramic cups with no holes but a cleaned out ceramic fuse could work. Hard to say what contaminants they might contain though since oral consumption/inhalation isn't and intended use.

The German modders are using Stewalin for cup making with reported success according to Kelemvor.

Hot attys aren't known for longevity hitting them with a cooler liquid, but there are always trade offs.

If you read the plethora of threads on custom made pv's, I'd bet there is a good one already made.

 

[Kelemvor]

nice work vaporer, i think the G120 is really a nice piece to get people into experimenting with atomizer coils. most others are just to tiny for most of us

 

[Vaporer]

Thanks Kelemvor.
I was surprised to see what all the Germans have done with it and the Bulle with what I was able to view on the German forum. I'm going to try to sign up and copy & paste it into a translator on things that look interesting. There is a lot of good work going on there and many more getting interested. This is a good thing as the more people interested the more ideas and better solutions.

I did some research on the Stewalin and all I can find is in EU. It does look promising for cup making. That would open a lot of doors. Working with the limitations of factory equipment when you know what you would really like is tough and can be discouraging for many.

Keep up the good work!

 

[Kelemvor]

i don't want to make the work of anyone look small, but take a good look at the threads of raidy. he totally changed our modding in only a few months, inventing some things no one ever thought to be possible. e.g. using stainless steel mesh as the wick and even as the heating element. it must be oxidized with a lighter for that though, so that it loose its conductivity on the surface.

 

[hova]

I personally feel the reason there isn't a solid bowl is besause then you would be boiling liquid , not vaporizing it. it would take forever, plus you need airflow to carry the vapor away...

now, a two stage cup where there is a solid bottom , would work fine, but sort of unnecessary ....

my final question is this; why haven't you picked up a kiln yet vaporer? you could surely mix up some slip and make me a custom cup...

-hov

 

[Vaporer]

Kelemvor, no ones work is ever meant to look small intentionally and shouldn't be taken that way. If one is going to mod one has to remember that there are people of all skill levels that will be interested and questions will be asked. You do what you can to help and ask when you need to. Stainless steel was mentioned on this forum, but was discarded due to it's resistance and trying to work within factory dimensions. My original main goal was to write tutorials that would allow people to fix their own equipment in the event of a ban, economic reasons, or the satisfaction of being able to do it. People are going above that now and I like it!

hov & dk2, a friend that moved abt 15 yrs ago had a kiln in his garage. lol He was into pottery and really good at it. The Stewalin Kelemvor mentioned will air dry or can be baked in a normal oven. I would really like to get some of this stuff. I may do a bid on the German ebay site where I saw some. Shipping will be probably high. I'm not so much interested in making a dripper as an atty up that is easily serviceable. Many of the disposables fit that ticket though.
You are correct that there needs to be some airflow. I can imagine a solid bottom cup with an indent in the bottom for the coil, an "directed" air feed to pass down in and the draw would pull the vapor out. Dripping the liquid in by squeeze or the metered pump. The only problem that arises is making sure its empty when the vaping session is done.
Hard to carry and make sure its totally upright all the time in the event any was left in the cup. Although a return has been used back to the reservoir in some designs. I just don't see an unsolvable difficulty in it. Just a little trial and error to get what the user wants. A totally sealed unit without check valves will always carry some risk. If the Stewalin worked out, 2 halves could be made, with a seal on the halves, with an air in & out line.

Of course, micro rc hobbying for yrs make a lot of things seem simple to me that others it may seem over whelming. That being said, I don't want to insult ppl saying things like "oh, thats so easy" and then they feel bad and probably won't ask anymore. More ppl participating is what we need. New ideas, knowledge and skills other have are always helpful.

 

[Scubabatdan]

hov & dk2, a friend that moved abt 15 yrs ago had a kiln in his garage. lol He was into pottery and really good at it. The Stewalin Kelemvor mentioned will air dry or can be baked in a normal oven. I would really like to get some of this stuff. I may do a bid on the German ebay site where I saw some. Shipping will be probably high. I'm not so much interested in making a dripper as an atty up that is easily serviceable. Many of the disposables fit that ticket though.
You are correct that there needs to be some airflow. I can imagine a solid bottom cup with an indent in the bottom for the coil, an "directed" air feed to pass down in and the draw would pull the vapor out. Dripping the liquid in by squeeze or the metered pump. The only problem that arises is making sure its empty when the vaping session is done.
Hard to carry and make sure its totally upright all the time in the event any was left in the cup. Although a return has been used back to the reservoir in some designs. I just don't see an unsolvable difficulty in it. Just a little trial and error to get what the user wants. A totally sealed unit without check valves will always carry some risk. If the Stewalin worked out, 2 halves could be made, with a seal on the halves, with an air in & out line.

Hey I have been looking at the uses of ceramic and came across this:
11oz THERMEEZ CERAMIC PUTTY 3200*F - eBay (item 110127938526 end time Jul-29-10 10:40:22 PDT)

What do ya think, useful?
Dan

 

[Vaporer]

That doesn't look to bad Dan.
The “Space Age Aluminum Oxide Ceramics” kinda concerns me on leaching aluminum into the liquid. Not a good thing. It may not have even have it in it, just a reference term.
Need to find an MSDS on it or a contents list. If anything looks suspicious we could possibly run it past one of our resident chemists like DVap or exo and let them take a look at it.

dk2, I was pondering your dripper question. My Buzz vari volt Welcome to NotCigs has a flat surface on the body. It will easily hold a 3m -5ml bottle without protruding. A small hole drilled in the top and silicone sealed with a small dia tygon tubing length inserted. They tubing then runs up the side to a hole drilled in the dripper mouth piece they sell.
It should be a few thousandths smaller than the tubing and the inserted end cut to a 45* angle. I'd drill the hole at a slightly downward angle. Next all that is required is how you elect to mount it. Clip, Velcro....... It is basically what the MrPuffer system uses and keeps a changeable standard atty.
You just lightly squeeze the bottle and see the liquid come up so you will be very close with a little practice. When you release the squeeze the remainder in the tube goes back to the bottle. The tubing I'm thinking is the kind that people on O2 use that goes in the nose ie...a nasal canula. Its 1/16" OD max and I've seen it abt .040 in dia.

The Buzz vari volt is a sealed manual unit so any leaking that might occur hits a little reservoir on the top and you can vari the voltage from 3-6v very accurately.
I'll try to post a "tape up" ver pic sometime this evening.