New Atomizer Coil Shape

[Vaporer]

Dan,
Honestly that looks like a flooder to me. Any excess mist or condensate will collect in the bottom. Your design with the silicone tube with just the tube shorter should cause extra feed. The filler can be positioned so it can't move easily, leaving the center opening clear. The quick change coil can be moved to the position in your original design by just raising/extending the posts. I've used IC socket pins in a couple that worked well. They plug into each other when removed from the socket.

hova,
It could be done, no doubt, its how far can you go? Many want only penstyles and the glass, being dead thermal mass, has to be heated to approx 420-430* to vaporize PG/VG. That kills the use of penstyle batteries and their users. mod uses could do it, but it will still be vaporizing for a bit when its off as the glass has now stored the heat. It wont be an instant draw either.

Most non cigar autos use a microphone as the sensor. It listens for the hiss sound and activates. Note: These do work well at the beach in your swimming trunk pockets! lol This I know for sure! Crashing waves and surf noise...eeeouch!
The silicone conical disc usually has holes in the top to allow the his to be heard, air to pass and actually acts as a trap for excess liquid. It is the protector of the mic unit. It too fires off a small FET to handle the current in most cases.

As many dead attys ppl end up with mesh isn't really a problem.
Carbon items just don't seem to fair well in the ecig, so far. Its way to conductive.
Someone mentioned using a graphite core. I measured it and no way that would work.

There is no reason a wick into a "well" shouldn't work. Just the recharge time which depends on a lot of factors, but it would be my 1st attempt with cartos. It should be easy to tune for individual use.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan,
Honestly that looks like a flooder to me. Any excess mist or condensate will collect in the bottom. Your design with the silicone tube with just the tube shorter should cause extra feed. The filler can be positioned so it can't move easily, leaving the center opening clear. The quick change coil can be moved to the position in your original design by just raising/extending the posts. I've used IC socket pins in a couple that worked well. They plug into each other when removed from the socket.

The whole premise behind this is to let gravity to the work. With both silicon tubes running through the liquid chamber and sealed to where they do not allow liquid in the lower area the only point of flooding would come from the center hole the wick is sticking out of. Now as to how much it will allow to flow into the lower area remains to be seen I suppose. It depends on the visosity of the liquid and how tight the wicking material is in the hole. I can always to a test with an open cup and wick material and see if it continuosly drips, I would fill the upper chamber with polyfil to stop rapid movment of the liquid.
Nothing ventured nothing gained
Dan

 

[Vaporer]

Exactly, and a great attitude.
This would be my only main concern as I see it depicted on a "first look" thing from a technical standpoint. As you said the viscosity of the fluid may or may not flood. It may not flood with any liquid.

Be sure to report back if you make that style and any changes made.

I appreciate you not taking offense as its not intended to be stated that way as picking apart your design. I take a lot and found early on, as the creator/designer, others will see it in different perspectives.
Information, discussion and testing works out most questions.
Sometimes it doesn't come out in type the way it would if you were discussing face to face.

I am liking the participation in the thread from everyone.
Many ideas, materials and such get shot down or criticized right off the bat.
Alot has been done in the field and it may even be on the forum, just buried from time and never got the attention it deserved for whatever reason. If it's not brought to light, even if it is again, something may be lost so don't stop with the ideas.

Try to give credit where its due if you are using someone else's idea added to yours or a mod of it, link the name or post if possible ......

Kelemvor and I had a great discussion on a wonderful post of the G120 cigar rebuild. A German site has done wonders with it making it easily rebuild-able!
Sure saved me a bunch of time and work.

We all have a common goal!

 

[Scubabatdan]

Exactly, and a great attitude.
This would be my only main concern as I see it depicted on a "first look" thing from a technical standpoint. As you said the viscosity of the fluid may or may not flood. It may not flood with any liquid.

Be sure to report back if you make that style and any changes made.

I appreciate you not taking offense as its not intended to be stated that way as picking apart your design. I take a lot and found early on, as the creator/designer, others will see it in different perspectives.
Information, discussion and testing works out most questions.
Sometimes it doesn't come out in type the way it would if you were discussing face to face.

I am liking the participation in the thread from everyone.
Many ideas, materials and such get shot down or criticized right off the bat.
Alot has been done in the field and it may even be on the forum, just buried from time and never got the attention it deserved for whatever reason. If it's not brought to light, even if it is again, something may be lost so don't stop with the ideas.

Try to give credit where its due if you are using someone else's idea added to yours or a mod of it, link the name or post if possible ......

Kelemvor and I had a great discussion on a wonderful post of the G120 cigar rebuild. A German site has done wonders with it making it easily rebuild-able!
Sure saved me a bunch of time and work.

We all have a common goal!

No offense taken, I know somethings get lost in the type. Here is my frst trial run to see how fast it drips to see if it will indeed flood the atty.

Pic 1: "Cup" with wick pulled through the 1/8" hole
Pic 2: "Cup" Filled with polyfil and setting on a 10ml bottle
Pic 3: Filled with 5ml of liquid "Topped off"
Pic 4: After 40 minutes of sitting looks like two drops
Pic 5: New 2 ohm coil for the bottom piece which I will solder for the test run.

The idea is to position the cup up into the pill fob as it sets in the pic so when the bottom is screwed on to the pill fob body the cup wick touches the coil allowing the wicking of juice to the atty. Since the atty is easly accessable it should be easy to change out.
Dan

 

[Vaporer]

Yea, looking good. The form I recommend for winding has a purpose that fits here. When removed it allows air spaces to be created in the wicking materials parallel strands allowing capillary action. To much, a flood, to little, it starves.
This type of situation becomes a "try and see" thing, then go from there.

I your pic #5, the coil has long leads. maybe not the way you'd install it, but I have many manufacturers products that do this using it for leads. Dead active thermal mass. It's not in the "target area". I'm sure its more an economical thing for them. The actual connections should be as close to the coil as possible.

On the wick, is it possible to leave the ends long and use a fine wire loop to tuck it into the filler reservoir thru the hole? It would easily pull out when changing an old one and the "loop tool" would allow tucking the feed end/s back into the reservoir. It would be a snap to make from fine piano wire from a hobby shop.

Lookin good.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Yea, looking good. The form I recommend for winding has a purpose that fits here. When removed it allows air spaces to be created in the wicking materials parallel strands allowing capillary action. To much, a flood, to little, it starves.
This type of situation becomes a "try and see" thing, then go from there.

I your pic #5, the coil has long leads. maybe not the way you'd install it, but I have many manufacturers products that do this using it for leads. Dead active thermal mass. It's not in the "target area". I'm sure its more an economical thing for them. The actual connections should be as close to the coil as possible.

On the wick, is it possible to leave the ends long and use a fine wire loop to tuck it into the filler reservoir thru the hole? It would easily pull out when changing an old one and the "loop tool" would allow tucking the feed end/s back into the reservoir. It would be a snap to make from fine piano wire from a hobby shop.

Lookin good.

WOW prototype DONE! and it works, and it holds 10ml of liquid!!!!!!!

Check this out.... might take a couple of post for the pics.

Vaporer, the only problem with doing the wick the way you sugested is that you have to screw the bottom on and it could damage the coil.

Ok same as the last pill fob, 1/4" hole in both top and bottom, I soldered the coil directly to the atty connector, yes pig tails cut close.

Pic 1: Coil soldered to battery connector.
Pic 2: Full size plastic liner from pill fob, 3 1/8" holes, two for air channels and one for the wick. Loop is pulled to the inside and them pulled back so it can be removed and replaced, trim to height.
Pic 3: Tubes on top liner filled with polyfil, longer tube goes through 1/8" hole in top of pill fob.
Pic 4 Top of pill fob
Pic 5 liner inserted into pill fob, ther was no cutting required.

Continued in next post.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Pic 1: Assembled hybrid
Pic 2: Enjoying the fruits of my labor

This was actually easy to make and took me 2 hours from start to finish.

YEHAW!
Dan

Added .....
30 minutes of straight vaping and it is working like a champ! No pooling in the bottom cap.

 

[Vaporer]

Thats what was missing! lol
Son went out the back door, closed the outer, not the inner, German Shepard can open a French handle..lol
I jumped for him and cleared my message.
Oh well. Yea, I agree....I was looking and if screwed in, it could twist the primary wick to tight or out of the reservoir.

Glad to hear it's working!

 

[volunteer vapor]

Good job dan...taking the pill fob to the next level...I droped the idea soon after posting it...Im now working on a new pv and new cartomizer.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Well 3 hours and still going strong, I think we have a winner here
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

I thought I would post how I do my nichrome to wire connections, I first tin (solder) the wire (Pic 1). Next I wrap the nichrome wire three wraps around the end of the standard wire (Pic 2). Then I J crimp the wire onto the nichrome wire and trim the short leg of nichrome wire (Pic 3). I then solder the J crimp (Pic 4). And finally IF I am making short legs, like in the hybrid atty I cut 1/4" off so I am left with a 1/4" of pre tin'd wire I can solder easily and the nichrome will not come loose (Pic 5).
Hope this helps
Dan

 

[hova]

i dont know about the ontainer design , its late and i am probably just not having it sink in , ill re look tomorrow , just wanted to say that this is all coming along quite nicely , and it turns out the e-cigar may be what im looking for...

i was thinking earlier , why are we coiling the nichrome.. is it just to make it fit ?

the reason i ask , is i was looking at the one juicebox mod where the guy actually put the juicebottle with custom applicator , basically right up against the bottom hole of the atomizer, which made really good sense to me. it makes even more sense now that i have seen the inside of one.

so a: why arent these models more popular? i would think we could have just a coil , and squeeze a drop and vape... then there would never need to be a wick...

anywho , i was also thinking of using the a fed tube , attatched to a carto centerpost , with the nichrome going straight off the back , then a tiny metal tube running outside..ill whip up a pic real quick , this laptop is killing me...


-hov


its crude because its 3am , and i have to be up at 6...YAY!!!

-hov

 

[hova]

just looked back over the design , and that is the shiznit! no wire to worry about insulation melting , no glue , i think that looks good , lets see where can i get 50 titanium pill fobs ...


seriously though , im going to have to make an extension connector for my 4aa boxmod , but at least iwont have to cary a bottle of juice with me any more. 2 atties should do me for at least 2 days ...

is the power connector just friction fit? that would be my only issue , seeing as im going to be using an extension tube to connect to my recessed connector... ill put some pics up tomorrow , but now all i need is nichrome , some tubing , a pill fob ...and...oh yeah a couple strands of silica...

btw what was that cap off ?


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

Not bad at all hov.
I can pretty much get the idea you are shooting for.
The coil provides a bigger target for the mist to hit as opposed to a straight wire. The wickless coil I made had way to little surface and no wick meant way less feed.

If you squeeze to hard, I can't se a return back to the bottle. Any excess will go in the cart to the bottom. I may not be able to see it. The power from threaded connectors are friction. One threaded and the other is the insulated(actually isolated) disc in the center.

You could wind the coil, with a wick tail on one end. The wick would go down the tube to the bottle. So when its squeezed (lightly) it soaks the wick for the draw. That would help prevent any excess from gushing out, not getting vaporized. That does plug the air feed so a small side hole abt .040 could be drilled in the side near the bottom of the fob so air would flow in below the coil and carry the vapor out.

I can see something on that order working.

Why juice squeeze bottle units arent more popular? Many complain of leaks. One unit, the MrPuffer simply feeds the liquid up with a squeeze to a hole mid cart. It soaks the filler, some let it drip right on the coil. Releasing the squeeze draws excess back to the bottle. Many like it. If used on an auto battery it can ruin a battery so most go with a sealed manual. If it does leak it comes out at the cart air feed opening. Some also leak when tipped over, like in your pocket.

I think you can make that work though. You'll see better once you do a proto of it.
Take pics!

 

[CloudBurst]

Dan- How's it going on the 2 you made? I have my stuff on order but not sure which to make first. Also, mine did not come with the little white cap, but I did find one that fits.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan- How's it going on the 2 you made? I have my stuff on order but not sure which to make first. Also, mine did not come with the little white cap, but I did find one that fits.

The top feeder is working great, with the coil closer to the mouth piece the throat hit is excellent. The bottom feeder is also still working good, I still have not refilled either yet. The top feeder is going on day 3 and the bottom feeder on day 2. I do notice the bottom feeder might actually need a faster feed system for it, as I sometimes have to wait for the flow to catch up. But replacing the coil is much easier. It also has a good throat hit but not as good as the top feeder.

Dan

 

[hova]

the 3AA box i made has a recessed atty connector , so ill either have to peel another battery , or buy a connector ... im not excited about either...

anyways , i was just htinking to make it as small as possible , and basically this way , the heat would be a little more even , my original thought was a low resistance , disposable , where you would have basically a piece of 1/4" tubing , with a cap on the end , filled with a few ml of liquid , where you basically have the equivalent of a virginia slim or a thinner toss out version of an ecig..... im thinking you would have some tiny lipo coin cells , in the atomizer tip , then just stick the connector on , like that g120 setup was... about that big.

im thinking maybe use a 20 or 30 mah lipo with about an inch of nichrome ,2 or 3 ml of juice , with a small small battery...

i could whip up 10 or 20 of em , and thats how i would limit my use...

i suppose a small coin cell , or just passthrough style...


i dont have access to a drill press , would you be able to drill out a fob for me ? id pay you at least 20$ for that whole atomizer...


-hov

 

[hova]

oh and the drawing didnt have a return , i was just getting an idea out , i didnt think of a real need for a return line , i just figured a sealed system , as long as you didnt suck the bottle empty somehow , you would never get mouthed up...

 

[Scubabatdan]

i dont have access to a drill press , would you be able to drill out a fob for me ? id pay you at least 20$ for that whole atomizer...

-hov

What are the hole dimesions you need drilled? 1/4" on top and bottom?
Let me know.
Dan

 

[hova]

i havent even checked to see what the dimensions on a 901 are... id imagine 1/4" is pretty close... i might have a spare carto laying around still , ill pm ya in a little bit...

-hov