New Atomizer Coil Shape

[Tasselhoff]

Vaporer; Nice work but isn't silica very bad for your Health/Lungs?
I have a friend that works at company that makes semiconductor chips and he is always telling about how bad the dust is for you.

 

[Vaporer]

OooooK, I get to quote myself in my own thread! Who would have ever thought? You can read this and other discussions on the same topic in other threads also, but it's always easier to jump in than waste your time reading a little.

As far as materials used in rebuilding or creating atomizers, one should use the safest materials possible.
I and many others have measured , chemically tested and whatever else we were capable of tested silica/fire wick against the factory wicking material with it having the same results. Is it the same as the factory material, no manufacturer will confirm it.
Few materials found after months of researching meet the specifications needed for replacing the factory material. Many or most fail. Even the picture posted in this thread of a factory cartomizer shows slight "long" thread breakage.

There are many discussions in the atomizer section on different wicking materials, advantages, disadvantages and concerns. Most are buried in the thread and was not in the topic line.

All I can say is if anyone has concerns with any material suggested in my posts then they should not attempt it, use it, unless they substitute something they feel safe with.

Silica is bad for your lungs as well as fiberglass, asbestos and 100's of other things. The mentioned also comes in many forms, types, some being much more potentially dangerous. Fiberglass cloth is very flexible but pink insulation is very brittle to the touch.

If you are vaping, you better quit and look in the atty because whats in there does break during building (usage?) and should be rinsed before using. Did the company, I doubt it, do you rinse it if you drop it? Once its secured, its danger potential drops drastically as its not being ground, cut or abused in a way that creates particles small enough to normally be inhaled.
You would be well advised to not vacation at the beach either, it's covered with silica dust. 8-o (sand)

 

[jigtg]

OooooK, I get to quote myself in my own thread! Who would have ever thought? You can read this and other discussions on the same topic in other threads also, but it's always easier to jump in than waste your time reading a little.



Silica is bad for your lungs as well as fiberglass, asbestos and 100's of other things. The mentioned also comes in many forms, types, some being much more potentially dangerous. Fiberglass cloth is very flexible but pink insulation is very brittle to the touch.

If you are vaping, you better quit and look in the atty because whats in there does break during building (usage?) and should be rinsed before using. Did the company, I doubt it, do you rinse it if you drop it? Once its secured, its danger potential drops drastically as its not being ground, cut or abused in a way that creates particles small enough to normally be inhaled.
You would be well advised to not vacation at the beach either, it's covered with silica dust. 8-o (sand)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/15020-wicking-material.html#post394991

 

[Vaporer]

jigtg,
A good thread I read long ago and just reread it (all 9 pages, 5 min?), suscribed to it too. Thanks for the link.
As I stated before, feel free to post links here to associated threads.

It has a lot of good info, suggestions, concerns and ideas.
I searched for a long time and still do for a source of a 1mm ceramic rod or pyrex glass.
The wick as it is now goes under the mesh to soak it as the mesh fills around the cup.
Wet particles, if formed, are more likely to be heavier and will cling to the cart inside before getting out the hole. Most have many turns to make and the vapor is very heavy with moisture from PG, VG and humidity from the air. The filter is, to me a great idea, and a "disk" of Pyramid Tea Bag(Lipton) at the cart exit hole is an excellent safety feature.
As you can see in the pics, the 402 has huge feed holes. With a ceramic core, this is needed for more liquid feed since there is no wet atty core. It provides a hot surface for the mist to hit and vaporize. Most ceramics , even porus, are usually to slow to feed for what we consider normal vaping. The feed holes of most ceramic cups will be to small and need to be enlarged which can be difficult even with a dremel tool. Not impossible though. A thinner eliquid would help this more than likely too and is easy to do.

I've built many a prototype coils, wickless, and although they worked, vapor production was low. I haven't had the time to explore all the possibilities yet. Poor feed on a wicked coil is lame in vapor production too. That is why you will see the one end of the wick under the mesh when you disassemble most. As long as the cart is feeding the bridge, the wick is being fed too.

Thanks for the link.
For those new to the forum or just don't know, when reading a thread of interest you can go to the top and click Thread tools, Suscribe to this thread and select instant email notification. Everytime a new post is submitted you get an email with a clickable link to it. It keeps from searching the ones of interest and hunting them down to see if new posts are there when they get moved down in the list. A huge time saver.

 

[Vaporer]

Ok, the new thread is up.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...1-actual-working-methods-only.html#post966076

Anyone can start putting info in there. Please read the begining.
I'll clean up my text portion and have it posted in a day or so with pics to follow as I get them.

 

[crazyhorse]

Vaporer; Nice work but isn't silica very bad for your Health/Lungs?
I have a friend that works at company that makes semiconductor chips and he is always telling about how bad the dust is for you.

Have you actually seen the material we use? It is not dusty. Consider the material is soaked with liquid and quite stable. Then have a look at the path it must follow through the cartridge to even get into your mouth. Sure, stranger things have happened but you probably have a better chance of winning the lottery than developing silicosis from vaping.

 

[slade420]

one thing about silica is that is can cause silicosis, destroyin the lungs and body slowly. a bunch of guys at the local gold mine have tested positive for silicosis. there was documentary of cbc about them. Apparently you cant detect it in an x-ray for 20 years. by then the damage is done.

 

[Vaporer]

There is a lot of difference between silica "dust" and rope made from amorphous silica continuous filament fiber that is restrained and kept wet to boot.
I even suggested you rinse it before using.
If you are vaping now, you should stop. Look in your coils center then quit if this is a concern to you.
I hate to say it, but it's these type of posts that keep many from sharing thier ideas.

As I've said before, If you have any problems or concerns with the materials used in mine or anyone elses posting, Don't do it !

 

[disallowedword]

one thing about silica is that is can cause silicosis, destroyin the lungs and body slowly. a bunch of guys at the local gold mine have tested positive for silicosis. there was documentary of cbc about them. Apparently you cant detect it in an x-ray for 20 years. by then the damage is done.

If it were silica dust being used, I would agree, but it is not! The silica wick material and raw silica dust are like the difference between sand and glass.

Kind of like a pumpkin is easy to digest when in its raw form, but after it is processed and made into a pie, the aluminum pie tin and card board box containing the pie are quite difficult to swallow.

 

[slade420]

sorry guys didnt mean to slow you down with my newb comments
how about using a ceramic air stone from a fish tank. the air tube can be heated and the porous ceramic or stone can act as a wicking device. like i said im new so i dont know if idea is airtight. another thing about it, if you heat the tube part, if its metal, wont it warm up the ceramic stone pulling fluid through the small holes in the air stone? i hope this post is a little more helpful. i found one that is cylindrical shaped and is 30mm x 15mm.

 

[kai kane]

sorry guys didnt mean to slow you down with my newb comments . . how about using a ceramic air stone from a fish tank.

Ha! Welcome to the forum. As a near-noob myself, I can offer some guidance. One who is brand new here should allot some time to read a fair amount before posting advice/suggestions, unless one is already an expert in the respective field. Ie; the air stone - a project is already underway with ceramic heater/wick mods, and the air stone has been mentioned a fair amount already. What I try to do is "search" a term before posting, to see what's been done already, and/or start a new thread for a different subject.
Not to scare you off (please don't be! we need all advocates of ecigs to stay connected!) just thought this might help.
kai

 

[Vaporer]

slade420, welcome to the ECF.

I've been a little harsh sided lately.
It is a good idea to search a topic and read the whole thread if interested in the subject. Lots of stuff you will find already covered, some will be very new.

I think you will find this bunch is very safety cautious. We are under a strong eye right now. I respect your concern with a safety issue that you think others may not be aware of. Check out post #102 of this thread.

There are a couple of good threads on ceramic projects going on.
Check out "I Quit fo my Kids". It's in the atomizer section abt 10 threads under this one last time I looked.

 

[slade420]

where is my forum etiquette ? haha i have been going a little crazy will a couple different projects and got excited when i read about the ceramic air stones, i never though to search on here for threads, i never seen anything about it in the newest threads so i thought id throw it out there. try to go easy on me guys, i did sign up yesterday, this thread alot is 12 pages. anyway i havent found this info on your site with the search function. so here it is, if nobody wants this info ill stop posting. 30mm x 15mm cylindrical aluminum oxide / ceramic air stone. the stone can be the atty, the air pipe can be the atty, the stone with its uniform porous holes will act as a wicking device. possibly as a cart too.
heat the tube and it will pull liquid through the stone into the tube as your atty. the reverse is true if you heat the stone it will pull liquid up the pipe. The use of Aluminum oxide is important. as it create a porous ceramic with uniform 200 micron sized holes.

look into microheaters, this is your solution. from Wiki:
Microheaters are small high power heaters with precise control, that can offer temperatures in excess of 1000C, even up to 1900C
With an increase in usable temperature, microheaters need to be supported or enclosed with very high thermal-resistant ceramic materials often made from small grain, high purity aluminum oxide.

 

[kai kane]

Reason for Editing: minimize off topic chatter

 

[kai kane]

Reason for Editing: minimize off topic chatter

 

[bidibulle]

very good topic and post, I am inspired by all and work to build a prototype of a spray resistance interchangeable ...
thank you.

 

[hova]

through all this im just curious if you have tried a 2c lipo pack... a 30 second recharge time on one of these for 2 minutes of use seems very acceptable to me for certain things. i have a million ideas so ill be around , just thought i wouldsee if you have tried one , seeing as youre into r/c stuff


on another note , i took apart my dead 901 last night , and i dont know how you solder something so miniscule. i tie flies for fishing , and let me tell you , ill tie the tiniest size 26 anyday , but looking at a coil that was maybe 2mm long , theres no way my skills are there. not to mention all the mesh crap , seemed to be glued together. im thinkging this is was is responsible for my burnt taste.

-hov

 

[Vaporer]

Finding specs on the factory batteries is tough. I have some rc lipos that are 20C. A 2-3C full recharge time isn't uncommon on small 100-180ma lipos found in some stuff. The 20 min full recharge time on many of these "economy units" shows this. Its hard on a battery to charge over 1C, unless its designed for it. They still seem to have a shorter lifespan. The fire from a 1A battery isn't pretty either.

The ceramic cup "pocket" on a 510 atty is normally 2 x 4mm so the coil has to fit in there with adequate clearance for airflow and allows for some buildup. The NiCH wire in the pics is .005 . It isnt that bad to solder with the tip shaped right, good flux and a head band magnifier. A fly tying holder is ideal and was suggested by someone as an aid in making coils.

The mesh isnt normally glued. It's kind stuck from the compression of being squeezed into the tube. Once you find the last wrap point, it just falls away.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Finding specs on the factory batteries is tough. I have some rc lipos that are 20C. A 2-3C full recharge time isn't uncommon on small 100-180ma lipos found in some stuff. The 20 min full recharge time on many of these "economy units" shows this. Its hard on a battery to charge over 1C, unless its designed for it. They still seem to have a shorter lifespan. The fire from a 1A battery isn't pretty either.

The "pocket" on a 510 atty is normally 2 x 4mm so the coil has to fit in there with adequate clearance for airflow and allows for some buildup. The NiCH wire in the pics is .005 . It isnt that bad to solder with the tip shaped right, good flux and a head band magnifier. A fly tying holder is ideal and was suggested by someone as an aid in making coils.

The mesh isnt normally glued. It's kind stuck from the compression of being squeezed into the tube. Once you find the last wrap point, it just falls away.

Hey Vaporer,
Was cruzin the forums a week ago and found someone that converted a standard carto into to a super carto, 12ga shell I think the mod was called but it disapeared the next day. In my spare time (like none) I have create a dup of the pill fob carto. I used 36ga Nichrome at 2.6ohms wrapped around 2 4" Strands of fire wick and basically looped them back down beside the air tube and wapped the whole thing with poly fill. This is then inserted into the 1/4" hole in the bottom of the pill fob and pressed into place. I then filled the remaining space in the pillfob with poly fill. This thing holds 3ml of ejuice and works like a champ at 3.7v. I basically made a carto from scratch. here are the pics.
Dan

 

[Vaporer]

Pretty cool Dan. This thread isn't just for my ideas. I'd like to see more proven methods with pics posted here. It got a sticky and doing this keeps all the info in one place.

Cartos are my next "target". lol It comes down to just a couple choices. You find or redo one so that wont burn using the existing materials, or make one like you did that wont.
I dont know if yours will eventually burn or not. Time and materials used will tell with use.
Silica seems to be the most fire resistant, but with some using HV, they can push temps above the 2300* on a dry burn. The stranded non-resin fiberglass seems to be a close 2nd.

So, if you vape at 3.7v, its possible to make an atty that doesnt burn, post it, and then someone uses it on 6v and cooks it to the ground and decides to call you on it.

Details and common sense need to be used in descriptions. We all have the same goal.
The best and safest vaping experience possible. I have an Idea for a redo on a carto, but plan to do it in a new carto thread. Then maybe we can start getting good carto info all in one place too. There is just to much good stuff spread all over the threads that gets lost. If links are found I don't mind a bit for them to be posted here if its a good proven thing.

My OP still works well on a standard atty. Variations are important as some cannot do certain things and may easily do another method.