New Atomizer Coil Shape

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skywalk

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I understand your point of view and I can relate to that. But please note that my pushiness is borne of desperation: I had a lot of supplies seized. I'm on my fourth day of being analog free (and I have all kinds of funky physical manifestations) which I won't go into. I really need this to work for me and all I have to go on were 3 attys. Now down to 2 after barely vaping for 10mins.

So I hope u forgive me for coming across as pushy. It's hard to capture the scope of human emotion and helplessness on a forum, so like I said, every little bit of info, help, and support would really go a long way. Thanks for reading.
 

skywalk

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I feel very badly about your situation skywalk but please realize that poor planning and/or bad luck on your part does not constitute an emergency situation for Vaporer.


indeed it doesn't. It is an emergency for me, not him.

I ordered about $500 worth of stuff in december 2009 and all I have are 2 batts and 2 attys and of course lots of juice :)

bad luck? yeah sounds about right! :oops:
 

rbonie

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The new design here is an oval shape. An egg (small end 1st) is actually the best for less aerodynamic drag.
The oval design has less resistance to airflow, (Airplane Airfoils)
Less distance from the coil as it passes and less distance to try and be pulled back in. Its biggest plus is more surface area of the nichrome wire exposed to the atomized airflow. Approximately 80%.
Other advantages is the main body of the coil is now in the mainstream of the 2 bottom feed holes and the 2mm "side face" is in direct path of the side inlets. A single smaller dia coil can be 2x as wide as the feed ports. When examing a dead carboned atomizer, it's normally buldged in the middle and very little to none on the ends since the ends were out of the airstream not really doing any work.

ovalatty1.jpg

ovalatty2.jpg


Ok Got my supplies... Question...
how in hell do you get the white stuff inside the coil????Thinking of using a sewing needle and loop of thread to pull it thru???:confused:
 

Vaporer

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People have used diff methods. I take a fine piece of thread abt a foot long, wet and twist the ends together and put it into the coil. This leaves a loop on one side of coil. If you need to, you can thread the needle slide it through the coil pull some extra and then put it right back through the coil leaving a thread loop on one side.
Next take the wick, abt 1/4-1/3 of a braid strand. This will depend on the core size used, single or dual rods. Put a piece of wick 3" or longer through the loop so when pulled through it will fold over and pull until you have a loop of wick abt 1" long.
See the picture in the thread. If it pulls through the coil very easily it not enough. Simply pull both ends of the wick back out add more and pull through again holding the coil between the thumb and 1st finger. I like to feel a pop or click as it starts through the 1st coil loop.
You might ask, why not just tie a knot around the wick and pull it through? Well, the knot is always on the side and hangs up on every coil. It doesnt work well at all.

The wick in the pictures will work well for a cartomizer. For bridged attys, the loop you pulled through has to be cut and tucked under the mesh on the bridge on the metal bridge support. The non looped side is trimmed to abt 1/4" and I tuck it to the cup bottom to soak up extra liquid preventing flooding.

Crazyhorse is correct also, some prefer to use a very fine needle or stiff wire, secure the wick to each end with thread and a knot, and then wrap the nichrome wire around both, sliding the stiff wire or needle out just before putting it in the cup.
Some dont use the stiff wire or needle at all and just wrap the wick itself.


The advantage to wrapping it on the bare forms is you can see, slide, adjust the bare coil to the length , nice even wraps, even adjust the length if needed. If coils touch you loose the resistance of the wrap and it can burn the wire in half.
 

Vaporer

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The wick loop should be trimmed where it exits the coil to 1/4" on one side of the loop. This will leave the other abt 2" long. That is the part to tuck under the mesh and trim off what isnt needed or to long to tuck. This wets the wick from the cart before the cup "loads up" and helps make more vapor and prevent wick burning.

If you took yours apart, you should have seen this tucked in there. earlier models didnt use this feature.

Does this mean the tutorial is done?
 

Vaporer

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rbonie, from the picture I saw of a cartomizer, that look pretty good. The one I saw was already stripped.
A disposeable cig I just took apart uses the wick just like in my pic with the loop inserted in a plastic cart.
I snipped the one end loose so it would fit an 801 high bridge atty. This was supposed to be for "regular attys, not cartomizers. I would put cartomizers in a thread by themselves.
I'm not sure how the airflow is in an 808 and an oval may not be the best shape.

This is what I meant when I said there are many diffferent styles and no one has them all. (That I know of that doing any teaching).
So, most coils are basically the same with minor mounting differences that the user should be able to figure out when they disassemble thiers.
Also lay things out in the order they come off or take pics of each step.
Makes for good reminders till you've done a few.
 
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Vaporer

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rbonie,
Ok, This wasnt intended to be a cartomizer thread, but like most, it gets diluted with good info, buried, that many may never see.

I do have to ask, what happened and why or what didn't work?
For a cartomizer, I have to suggest a circular coil from the few pics I have been able to find until till I have one that dies I can look at in hand.

I have some KR808D's. I'd still be happy to pay the shipping on 5 Green Cig carts ( totally dead) so I can examine them. If they are rebuildable, I'll even send one back to the person, fixed , improved if possible for free just for thier time & trouble.
 

rbonie

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rbonie,
Ok, This wasnt intended to be a cartomizer thread, but like most, it gets diluted with good info, buried, that many may never see.

I do have to ask, what happened and why or what didn't work?
For a cartomizer, I have to suggest a circular coil from the few pics I have been able to find until till I have one that dies I can look at in hand.

I have some KR808D's. I'd still be happy to pay the shipping on 5 Green Cig carts ( totally dead) so I can examine them. If they are rebuildable, I'll even send one back to the person, fixed , improved if possible for free just for thier time & trouble.
The mess you see is my first attempt. theone on the right is how it's supposed to look. Got 5 thumbs on each hand, (sigh). Gonna try again tommorrow..too tired tonight.Think thats what got me last night..
 

rbonie

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rbonie,
Ok, This wasnt intended to be a cartomizer thread, but like most, it gets diluted with good info, buried, that many may never see.

I do have to ask, what happened and why or what didn't work?
For a cartomizer, I have to suggest a circular coil from the few pics I have been able to find until till I have one that dies I can look at in hand.

I have some KR808D's. I'd still be happy to pay the shipping on 5 Green Cig carts ( totally dead) so I can examine them. If they are rebuildable, I'll even send one back to the person, fixed , improved if possible for free just for thier time & trouble.

What about using a larger dia coil than the 1 or 2mm ??
 
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disallowedword

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What about using a larger dia coil than the 1/2mm ??

1/2 mm? I could have swore I read "1 mm" several pages ago, and if so why not use this stainless tubing,
mcmaster com/#89935k231/=5hws0h

1mm = 0.039
You had mentioned the factory size looked slightly smaller. Could you use the stainless tube (.0035 smaller OD). Somehow pull the wick or wicks through the tube or tubes, then make as many coils as your heart desires, and slide them off on to the wick material?
Just a late night thought.
Or, I am a very naive n00b.:oops:


Look forward to seeing a tutorial!
 

rbonie

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rbonie,
Ok, This wasnt intended to be a cartomizer thread, but like most, it gets diluted with good info, buried, that many may never see.

I do have to ask, what happened and why or what didn't work?
For a cartomizer, I have to suggest a circular coil from the few pics I have been able to find until till I have one that dies I can look at in hand.

I have some KR808D's. I'd still be happy to pay the shipping on 5 Green Cig carts ( totally dead) so I can examine them. If they are rebuildable, I'll even send one back to the person, fixed , improved if possible for free just for thier time & trouble.
Took a "good" cartomizer aprt to study... Just wrapped it is silica rope n stuffed it in a tube.(Same coil it was birthed with). Any idea if this silica will be ok to vape off, (health issues) /???:shock:

edit: Got this morphadite vaping! Gonna see if I can get the "burn" flavor and how long.. will update.....AND THE SAGA CONTINUES
 
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rbonie

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Jackson,Ms (da DEEP Sout!)
1/2 mm? I could have swore I read "1 mm" several pages ago, and if so why not use this stainless tubing,
mcmaster com/#89935k231/=5hws0h

1mm = 0.039
You had mentioned the factory size looked slightly smaller. Could you use the stainless tube (.0035 smaller OD). Somehow pull the wick or wicks through the tube or tubes, then make as many coils as your heart desires, and slide them off on to the wick material?
Just a late night thought.
Or, I am a very naive n00b.:oops:


Look forward to seeing a tutorial!
Clarification... Run the silica through the inside of tube/ wrap nicrome coil around outside and just pull it off onto the wick???
D#$% That might work!!!!!!
 

Vaporer

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Thats why I use a piece of thread (looped) to pull it through the coil.
What you want is a lot of wick in the coil, but not so much that its squeezed tight ,like wrapping it tight with just the wire.
It works by capilarry action of parallel strands of wick. Like a tree. It wicks in the gaps and spaces between strands. To tight and it will wick to the 1st coil wrap and stop.
The wick is not made of an absorbant material, neither is the filler.

How do you plan to feed the wick through the tube if you cant get it through an open coil? The wall thickness will leave the center hole so small, you'll never get the tube filled tight and if you could, when you pull the tube off it won't be enough wick.
You might try to roll a piece of wick in 2 wraps of paper, wind the coil on it and slide the paper out. Typing paper is normally .007 thick so you will have a .014 wall with 2 rolls and be giving up .028 of space.

What tutorial? Its basically all in this thread now. Some here, some there, sit back and have a read. It's a short thread.
 

disallowedword

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You might try to roll a piece of wick in 2 wraps of paper, wind the coil on it and slide the paper out. Typing paper is normally .007 thick so you will have a .014 wall with 2 rolls and be giving up .028 of space.

What tutorial? Its basically all in this thread now. Some here, some there, sit back and have a read. It's a short thread.

And that particular dimension of stainless tubing (in the link I provided above) has a wall thickness of .004". If the wick material is compress-able like I believe I learned last night (while reading your entire thread), then Perhaps you could run a fine piece of wire through the tube, wrap tight, and pull the wick through? There are other sizes of tubing as well.
maybe a slotted tube would work even better?
I will certainly try it, but not until I think I have learned enough to build an atomizer that functions.
Thank you for this thread, I normally lurk, read and post when I need help, or can possibly be of help to others.
Best to you...John
 

Vaporer

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John,
I'm always open to new ideas. If you read the thread you know why.
I really didn't want to get deep into coil making 101 in this thread, but.....
Like every other thread on here, people get anxious, off topic and the threads are a mess.
There is so much good info buried in threads that have nothing to do with the title.
So, it makes the info hard to find.
I'm just now recovering from a serious health issue, I stated that and people don't want to wait. I understand thier side, but I have to live with mine.
I would have much rather started a new thread for making coils only.
I know it would have gotten diluted and off topic with questions on diff model disassembly. I already asked to avoid that, but again.........

Your find on the tubing is good with a wall that thick and I can think of 2 ways to feed the wick in already. I like the slotted tube especially. But, its buried here.
Lately the moderators are tightening up some. Thread length and such.
To start another thread repeating, copying and pasting things posted here doesn't make them the happiest campers and it does eat server space.

If Sun hadn't stickied this one, it would already be buried deep as many others that have loads of good info in them on coil making, atty rebuilding.
Most people don't want to search and see if its been posted and most of the time it can be hard to find and take a lot of time, but it's there.

Maybe its time to just close this one, lock it and have it unstickied.
Someone can start one with the proper title and manage it.
 

rbonie

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John,
Your find on the tubing is good with a wall that thick and I can think of 2 ways to feed the wick in already. I like the slotted tube especially. But, its buried here.
If Sun hadn't stickied this one, it would already be buried deep as many others that have loads of good info in them on coil making, atty rebuilding.
Most people don't want to search and see if its been posted and most of the time it can be hard to find and take a lot of time, but it's there.

Maybe its time to just close this one, lock it and have it unstickied.
Someone can start one with the proper title and manage it.
please don't unsticky this one . It has been more help than any thing else I have found!!!
Found a way to pull wick thru a coil, ( or this tubing).Comes out of the fly tying kit I bought. It's a long wire loop.. see pics
 
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