I have a purple 2500mah 35a Efest 18650 that I hope will work well in a dna 30 box mod. This is my first time getting into sub-ohming and coil building, so I thought a 35a battery would be a good choice.
Thanks for that. Do you know the position regarding the purple Efest 3100 mAh claiming 20A on the wrap please?That battery is a decent choice for your mod. If you have read through this thread, then you should know by now that your purple Efest 35 amp batteries are actually rewrapped 20 amp LG IMR batteries. Not a big deal in a DNA mod. The DNA chip needs at least 12 amps, so you're covered.
As far as I have researched, nobody knows what battery cell is actually hiding under the new Purple 3100mah 20A wrapper yet so the exact specifications are unknown, none of the flashlight guys have done any tests yet either.Thanks for that. Do you know the position regarding the purple Efest 3100 mAh claiming 20A on the wrap please?
RedMoxy69 said:what/is there a difference between the purple Efest 18650's -- 2100/30A, the 2500/35A & the 3100/20A besides the Mah/how long between charges??? IF so, does it have to do with the A??? I am looking for use in a VAMO & not a sub Ohm Vaper either, not looking to get very technical. I ask because a site recommends the 2100/30A only for VAMO & others paired for use with other Mods, I hesitate due to the 30/35/20A & where they lost me (not that that's too hard to do anyways
sharnon007 said:I'd like a simple, layman's terms answer, also...I'd like to know the difference in batteries:
What does the 18*%0 represent?
What does the **00/**A mean?
What brands seem to be most consistent?
Who stays charged longest?
Which battery has the longest life?
How do I know if a battery is getting ready to completely die???
Do they all 'pop' & give off a bad smell when they die?
What do all those numbers and letters really mean?
Battery identification can be one of the most difficult aspects of battery purchasing. All batteries are not created equal and just because two batteries are labeled IMR18650, does not mean they have the same capabilities, characteristics and safety features.
The batteries we use in e-cigarettes generally follow an industry defined identification scheme consisting of 3 letters followed by 5 numbers, ie. IMR18650, ICR14500, NCR18650 etc. The first three letters indicate the battery basic construction and capabilities. The following series of numbers indicate the batteries approximate physical size.
The entire sequence can be broken down as such:
The first letter indicates the basic chemical makeup of the battery. "I" indicates the battery is a Lithium Ion class battery.
The second, and most important letter indicates the material. "C" indicates the material as cobalt; "M" indicates manganese; "N" indicates nickel. Knowing this, "ICR" means Li-Ion/cobalt; "IMR" means Li-Ion/manganese. Using manganese or nickel makes the battery a "safer chemistry" and in most cases a "high drain" battery. The newer IMR/hybrid batteries use a mixture of ICR and IMR chemistries to gain the better attributes of both.
ICR batteries are not considered safe chemistry or high drain batteries, and are considered to be obsolete for mod use. ICR batteries vent flames and can explode when they go into thermal runaway. Their amp limits are typically less than 4 amps. These are best used for flashlights or other low drain applications.
Battery capacity (how long a battery should last on a charge) is listed as a "mAh" rating. It's not an exact science, but 100 mAh is roughly equal to 1 hour battery use. 2000 mAh should last roughly 20 hours use. 700 mAh should last 7 hours.
The battery identifier described above tells a basic story on what the battery can handle, but for an ecigarette, and more notably modders, one of the most important ratings is the maximum continuous discharge rate. The maximum discharge rate (amps) became more prevalent when vapors started building their own coils. With the natural progression of things, our extreme inner drive to produce more vapor, and sub-ohm (< 1.0 ohm) resistance coils, we are dancing dangerously close to the physical limitations of lithium ion batteries.
An atomizer coil draws a specific amount of current (amps) from the battery. That current must not be more than the total amps in continuous discharge rate of the battery, or very bad things could happen.
Amp ratings: The maximum continuous discharge rate is a battery specification which indicates how much current (Amps) you can draw from the battery without causing physical harm to the battery. Pull more than the maximum discharge rating and the battery becomes unstable, goes into a irreversable state of thermal runaway and can exhaust hot gasses, flames or explode. Quite often, a mod's features will include terms like “battery vent holes”. These holes are in place to safely guide hot gasses and flames away from your face in the case of most battery failures so the mod does not become a pipe bomb from the pressure buildup of gases.
_________________________
The difference in the 18650 purple Efest batteries are in the mAh rating (battery capacity, or how long the battery should last on a charge during use) and the amp rating. Be aware that Efest and a few other brands are inconsistant in how in how they report their battery specs. These brands often list the "pulse" amp rating, and not the "continuous discharge" amp rating. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
As far as your general regulated VV/VW 18650 mods, you only need to use a high drain IMR battery with 10 amps. This is because of the PWM circuitry which can draw up to 9 amps from the battery. After that first priority is met, choose the battery with the higher mAh rating.
The high wattage DNA 20 - 50 watt regulated mods will need a 20 - 30 amp battery (minimum 12 amp high drain battery).
If using sub-ohm coils on a mechanical mod, one must use an Ohm's Law calculator to determine how many amps are required for the ohm of the coil that is going to be built. This may require a 20 - 30 amp battery.
List of high drain batteries and their amp ratings
___
The AW IMR batteries are argueably the most reliable and consistant battery on the market. Are there batteris which last longer on a charge? Yes there are. Are there batteries which have a higher amp rating? Yes there are. However, for general purpose use AW batteries are the best batteries available.
Not all batteries are created equal when they leave the factory. AW (Andrew Wan) is a battery distributor in Hong Kong who buys large shipments from the better manufacturers in Japan. He and his staff inspect/test each individual battery for quality and performance. The top tier get chosen to become AW batteries.
I own one of the purple Efest 35 amp batteries, though I have yet to use it in any serious sub ohm set up, I have Sony VTC4's that I use for that right now. Anyone here used them for any low ohm set ups?? I feel a tad bit wary simply because they don't seem to have the umphh that I get when using my sonys. You guys know what I mean, when you put a new fully charged sony VTC4 in my mech mod it hits HARD. The 35amp Efest doesn't replicate that at all. It's a bit concerning and until I hear otherwise this battery will only be used for 1 ohm and above builds.
What do all those numbers and letters really mean?
Battery identification can be one of the most difficult aspects of battery purchasing. All batteries are not created equal and just because two batteries are labeled IMR18650, does not mean they have the same capabilities, characteristics and safety features.
The batteries we use in e-cigarettes generally follow an industry defined identification scheme consisting of 3 letters followed by 5 numbers, ie. IMR18650, ICR14500, NCR18650 etc. The first three letters indicate the battery basic construction and capabilities. The following series of numbers indicate the batteries approximate physical size.
The entire sequence can be broken down as such:
The first letter indicates the basic chemical makeup of the battery. "I" indicates the battery is a Lithium Ion class battery.
The second, and most important letter indicates the material. "C" indicates the material as cobalt; "M" indicates manganese; "N" indicates nickel. Knowing this, "ICR" means Li-Ion/cobalt; "IMR" means Li-Ion/manganese. Using manganese or nickel makes the battery a "safer chemistry" and in most cases a "high drain" battery. The newer IMR/hybrid batteries use a mixture of ICR and IMR chemistries to gain the better attributes of both.
ICR batteries are not considered safe chemistry or high drain batteries, and are considered to be obsolete for mod use. ICR batteries vent flames and can explode when they go into thermal runaway. Their amp limits are typically less than 4 amps. These are best used for flashlights or other low drain applications.
Battery capacity (how long a battery should last on a charge) is listed as a "mAh" rating. It's not an exact science, but 100 mAh is roughly equal to 1 hour battery use. 2000 mAh should last roughly 20 hours use. 700 mAh should last 7 hours.
The battery identifier described above tells a basic story on what the battery can handle, but for an ecigarette, and more notably modders, one of the most important ratings is the maximum continuous discharge rate. The maximum discharge rate (amps) became more prevalent when vapors started building their own coils. With the natural progression of things, our extreme inner drive to produce more vapor, and sub-ohm (< 1.0 ohm) resistance coils, we are dancing dangerously close to the physical limitations of lithium ion batteries.
An atomizer coil draws a specific amount of current (amps) from the battery. That current must not be more than the total amps in continuous discharge rate of the battery, or very bad things could happen.
Amp ratings: The maximum continuous discharge rate is a battery specification which indicates how much current (Amps) you can draw from the battery without causing physical harm to the battery. Pull more than the maximum discharge rating and the battery becomes unstable, goes into a irreversable state of thermal runaway and can exhaust hot gasses, flames or explode. Quite often, a mod's features will include terms like “battery vent holes”. These holes are in place to safely guide hot gasses and flames away from your face in the case of most battery failures so the mod does not become a pipe bomb from the pressure buildup of gases.
_________________________
The difference in the 18650 purple Efest batteries are in the mAh rating (battery capacity, or how long the battery should last on a charge during use) and the amp rating. Be aware that Efest and a few other brands are inconsistant in how in how they report their battery specs. These brands often list the "pulse" amp rating, and not the "continuous discharge" amp rating. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
As far as your general regulated VV/VW 18650 mods, you only need to use a high drain IMR battery with 10 amps. This is because of the PWM circuitry which can draw up to 9 amps from the battery. After that first priority is met, choose the battery with the higher mAh rating.
The high wattage DNA 20 - 50 watt regulated mods will need a 20 - 30 amp battery (minimum 12 amp high drain battery).
If using sub-ohm coils on a mechanical mod, one must use an Ohm's Law calculator to determine how many amps are required for the ohm of the coil that is going to be built. This may require a 20 - 30 amp battery.
List of high drain IMR batteries and their amp ratings
___
The AW IMR batteries are argueably the most reliable and consistant battery on the market. Are there batteris which last longer on a charge? Yes there are. Are there batteries which have a higher amp rating? Yes there are. However, for general purpose use AW batteries are the best batteries available.
Not all batteries are created equal when they leave the factory. AW (Andrew Wan) is a battery distributor in Hong Kong who buys large shipments from the better manufacturers in Japan. He and his staff inspect/test each individual battery for quality and performance. The top tier get chosen to become AW batteries.
I own one of the purple Efest 35 amp batteries, though I have yet to use it in any serious sub ohm set up, I have Sony VTC4's that I use for that right now. Anyone here used them for any low ohm set ups?? I feel a tad bit wary simply because they don't seem to have the umphh that I get when using my sonys. You guys know what I mean, when you put a new fully charged sony VTC4 in my mech mod it hits HARD. The 35amp Efest doesn't replicate that at all. It's a bit concerning and until I hear otherwise this battery will only be used for 1 ohm and above builds.
I have a purple 2500mah 35a Efest 18650 that I hope will work well in a DNA 30 box mod. This is my first time getting into sub-ohming and coil building, so I thought a 35a battery would be a good choice.
Ive been using these Efest 18650 35a for months. Never have I had an issue. I own 4 pairs labeled for each device, all which are mech mods running (parallel)dual coil at .22ohms or dual coil @ .8ohms. I never let them go under 3.7 and never charge them over 4.2v. These have out preformed any other VCT or LG battery I have used. Even on the the Efest mfc website tells you how to look for a fake.
Image Here
Oh if you would take time to measure the batteries you would notice that the LG or VCT are .5mm difference
Efest -Size: 65mm(L)x18mm(D)
LG- Max. H 65.2 mm x Max. D 18.5 mm
Sony-65.0mm (L) x 18.2mm (D)
I run my puple 35a efest and 35a mxjo at 42 amps .1ohm they work just fine