New Efest 18650 2500mah - 35 amp!
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Sooner or later you will have to learn about battery tech. characteristics. Refusing to do so will lead to many unanswered questions, frustration, and of course potential safety issues.
"Father ordered to stop writing emails in caps.
A father has been ordered by a British judge to stop emailing his children using all capital letters because it looks like he is yelling at them."
On topic
Sooner or later you will have to learn about battery tech. characteristics. Refusing to do so will lead to many unanswered questions, frustration, and of course potential safety issues.
There is a thread on the candlepower flashlight fourm that shows it to be closer to a 20 amp battery in continuous discharge.
When is the last time you continuously drained an 18650 at anything approaching 20A though? Tests from flashlight forums are great and all but they don't really factor in to the way vapers use the batteries in their devices, we provide a pulse discharge in short 2 to 10 second bursts, nobody continuously discharges a mod for any significant length of time, especially at higher amperage. So, a proper test would be more along the lines of testing the load under a ~10 second pulsed load, and comparing all the batteries that way. Sort of an "actual usage" type of test, rather than a benign number on a graph that means little to nothing to us.
Yeah, it tells you they re-designed the site and the link changed.
- Newest Efest 35A IMR 18650 2500mah flat top rechargeable battery perfec for ecig-Efest battery for E-cigs
Easy stuff. They have also recently announced a 3100mAH 20A 18650, for those with less need for high max drain amperage.
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Actually, I would take the continuous rating over speculation regarding safe max pulse ratings.
If I keep my pulse use within the continuous ratings, I should be able to realize something close to rated mAh discharge.
As a bonus, by not stressing a battery, I will also realize more/longer lifespan.
Hello people, I'm worried to even post here anymore since the first time when a full member critiqued me, or mocked what ever but thanks to some other members coming to my rescue I feel I'm alright..LOL
Say I just want to let you folks know that I found a pretty good deal on those Efest Purples, ya the one the full member said to me when I tried to mention something about a good deal that these batteries were not 35 amp as I had originally said, still have not gotten a comment back on why he said that to me and I'll take this moment to thank all that stood up for me,
I really don't know what this person was attempting to say to me, but the ones who rode to my rescue and called him out, I thank you, I was very new and still am.
But in my State of WA. is a company called Mountain Electronics and they have the Efest Purple at probably the best prices I have seen, this is the link, man I hope I'm not about to get in some trouble for mentioning this but be sure of this, I am not associated with or trying to pitch some company or maybe my own for some personal gain I promise you, I just think this place has really great prices and if your as poor as I am and needing power well I don't think it can get a whole lot better than here,
Efest 18650 35A 2500mAh Hi Discharge 18650 Battery
The prices are really cool the more you buy the less they are, here is an example of this Efest purple,
Price: $8.45
2 or more $8.25
4 or more $8.15
6 or more $8.05
And according to their site it appears they only have about 45 or so left, Also check the prices on all your other bats here like 18350-500's they are all very reasonable.
They are more of a flashlight company, they do have some cool ones, I also bought some thread grease and o ring lube to try out.
I sure hope I don't get jammed up here for posting a sale here like last time, geez I still wonder why that member said these are not 35amp and if someone has any idea of what this member might have been meaning PLEASE inform me, this person just made a comment and then never responded to me or the other members who asked for clarification,
Thanks folks... G
Say I just want to let you folks know that I found a pretty good deal on those Efest Purples, ya the one the full member said to me when I tried to mention something about a good deal that these batteries were not 35 amp as I had originally said, still have not gotten a comment back on why he said that to me and I'll take this moment to thank all that stood up for me,
I really don't know what this person was attempting to say to me, but the ones who rode to my rescue and called him out, I thank you, I was very new and still am.
But in my State of WA. is a company called Mountain Electronics and they have the Efest Purple at probably the best prices I have seen, this is the link, man I hope I'm not about to get in some trouble for mentioning this but be sure of this, I am not associated with or trying to pitch some company or maybe my own for some personal gain I promise you, I just think this place has really great prices and if your as poor as I am and needing power well I don't think it can get a whole lot better than here,
Efest 18650 35A 2500mAh Hi Discharge 18650 Battery
The prices are really cool the more you buy the less they are, here is an example of this Efest purple,
Price: $8.45
2 or more $8.25
4 or more $8.15
6 or more $8.05
And according to their site it appears they only have about 45 or so left, Also check the prices on all your other bats here like 18350-500's they are all very reasonable.
They are more of a flashlight company, they do have some cool ones, I also bought some thread grease and o ring lube to try out.
I sure hope I don't get jammed up here for posting a sale here like last time, geez I still wonder why that member said these are not 35amp and if someone has any idea of what this member might have been meaning PLEASE inform me, this person just made a comment and then never responded to me or the other members who asked for clarification,
Thanks folks... G
While I'm here I'd like to know if someone can tell me with it now coming up on Summer time and this is my 1st year of vaping in the Summer and with the heat rising, what happens with a Lithium battery sitting say on the floor board or worse on your seat in a car, you know with it getting really hot and all.
I'm thinking probably not a great idea, I've seen some temperature specs but as I recall it was in Celsius and I don't remember where I saw these what I think were operation temperatures, and I don't really understand what they meant, just remember mention of temperature,
So leaving a device in a car with a 18650 in it and the car getting a hundred degrees is probably not a great idea is what my common sense is telling me OR am I completely wrong and nothing bad will happen or am I absolutely correct and maybe someone in the know could put out a warning to us newer vapers about this danger of heat in the summer and the batteries so someone doesn't end up blowed up.
I'm thinking probably not a great idea, I've seen some temperature specs but as I recall it was in Celsius and I don't remember where I saw these what I think were operation temperatures, and I don't really understand what they meant, just remember mention of temperature,
So leaving a device in a car with a 18650 in it and the car getting a hundred degrees is probably not a great idea is what my common sense is telling me OR am I completely wrong and nothing bad will happen or am I absolutely correct and maybe someone in the know could put out a warning to us newer vapers about this danger of heat in the summer and the batteries so someone doesn't end up blowed up.
I've been meaning to get around to another test, I own VTC 4's, VTC 5's and two different purple Efest 18650s, 30A and 35A. I'll see what I can do this weekend.
Hello G, my apologies on behalf of strontium who really should have answered the questions that were quite rightfully and civilly put to him.
Unfortunately G, there are many rumours bandied about on the internet that are misinterpreted and before you know it they become "fact". There are also folk who make so-called technological statements, as you have experienced, but are unable to back up those statements. Once again they are based on "I read it somewhere" or "I heard tell" which as in a court of law is hearsay and therefore inadmissible. As far as vaping forums go, my advice is to make a mental note of such statements but disregard it until such time as incontrovertible proof is provided one way or the other.
As far as summer and hotter temperatures are concerned just be mindful that premium vaping temperatures are those equivalent to room temperature which is normally accepted as 70/75 degs F. Yes, it is probably okay to stretch it to 80/85 or 90 even but when it gets to 90/95 outside, in a closed car it could reach as high as 120/130. There have been a number of cellphones and laptops go bang over the years but I can't recall anything about vaping devices. I have however read many a report on folk returning to their vehicle and finding the juice in their device has thinned/expanded and leaked out all over the car interior or glovebox. Much like it can if you take your equipment on a plane and forget to allow for the change in cabin pressures. Like you said, common sense prevails.
As you can see from this thread and there are many others similar throughout vaping fora, any number of folk, to me anyway, seem to lose sight of reality and bump their gums pretty much needlessly over 20A cells, 30A cells and 35A cells etc as 99% will never ever have need of cells of those capacities. As can be seen from the table we are talking of 0.1 - 0.2ohm vaping. Cloud chasers in the extreme.
To explain, I have knocked up this table and all you need to concentrate on are the first three columns. The two wattage columns are basically a by-product of the other three unless using a DNA mod. Although I suppose you could include devices such as Vamos for up to 5A but that's a by the by.
1st Column
This is a figure that should be published by every battery manufacturer about each one of their cells but sadly that doesn't always apply. It is called the Constant Current Discharge or CCD rate which is the maximum continuous discharge current that the cell will safely discharge at. In vaping terms and if the figures are to be believed, it's the current or amps that you could safely discharge the battery from full to empty in one long continuous press of the mod switch/button. I for one would certainly not want to try to prove or disprove it. I'd be very concerned what happened when it got to empty or what the mod temperatures might reach.
Vapers do not vape continuously but intermittently in short bursts of anything between 2 and 10 seconds depending on the ohmage and airflow of their device. The lower the ohmage the shorter the lug, toke, toot, drag or whatever. For some strange reason of late I have noted many referring that vapers use a "pulse" means of discharge. To them I would suggest you place a finger on the side of your neck just below your ear or perhaps just on the inside of your wrist. That steady thump you can feel is a pulse and anyone who vapes to that short, steady rhythm is in need of medical attention.
That aside, by working to the CCD figures as a means of deciding on our choice of battery, gives us a much needed safety net which is no bad thing. How close we choose to get to the CCD rates when we vape is a choice that we as individuals must make for ourselves.
2nd Column
Is the maximum resistance of the coil in relation to the amp rating given in the first column when the cell is at its peak of 4.2v.
3rd Column
Is the maximum resistance of the coil in relation to the amp rating given in the first column when the cell is approaching recharge time of 3.6v. As can be seen, both wattage and ohmage drops the more you vape a cell, although not unduly.
How to use or read the table
Basically what you do is to either decide on what range of coil resistances you are proposing to vape at and cross refer to Col.1 to get your minimum battery capacity or else if you already have batteries and when you have determined their CCD rate, scroll down Col.3 to get the maximum resistance of any coil you build. In each instance it is your choice as to what FoS or Factor of Safety to build in rather than work to a minimum. One thing to note is that the lower the resistance the greater the FoS. If you decide to vape at .5 ohms or less then I would recommend a minimum FoS of 2 if not 3. In other words if your calculations worked out at a 10A cell required, a FoS of 2 would suggest a 20A cell but personally I'd go for 30A or even higher. You might argue against overkill but it's like comparing a Ford to a Rolls Royce driving constantly at 120mph. Yes they can both do it but which car is liable to fail first?
Hopefully the table is reasonably legible.
Unfortunately G, there are many rumours bandied about on the internet that are misinterpreted and before you know it they become "fact". There are also folk who make so-called technological statements, as you have experienced, but are unable to back up those statements. Once again they are based on "I read it somewhere" or "I heard tell" which as in a court of law is hearsay and therefore inadmissible. As far as vaping forums go, my advice is to make a mental note of such statements but disregard it until such time as incontrovertible proof is provided one way or the other.
As far as summer and hotter temperatures are concerned just be mindful that premium vaping temperatures are those equivalent to room temperature which is normally accepted as 70/75 degs F. Yes, it is probably okay to stretch it to 80/85 or 90 even but when it gets to 90/95 outside, in a closed car it could reach as high as 120/130. There have been a number of cellphones and laptops go bang over the years but I can't recall anything about vaping devices. I have however read many a report on folk returning to their vehicle and finding the juice in their device has thinned/expanded and leaked out all over the car interior or glovebox. Much like it can if you take your equipment on a plane and forget to allow for the change in cabin pressures. Like you said, common sense prevails.
As you can see from this thread and there are many others similar throughout vaping fora, any number of folk, to me anyway, seem to lose sight of reality and bump their gums pretty much needlessly over 20A cells, 30A cells and 35A cells etc as 99% will never ever have need of cells of those capacities. As can be seen from the table we are talking of 0.1 - 0.2ohm vaping. Cloud chasers in the extreme.
To explain, I have knocked up this table and all you need to concentrate on are the first three columns. The two wattage columns are basically a by-product of the other three unless using a DNA mod. Although I suppose you could include devices such as Vamos for up to 5A but that's a by the by.
1st Column
This is a figure that should be published by every battery manufacturer about each one of their cells but sadly that doesn't always apply. It is called the Constant Current Discharge or CCD rate which is the maximum continuous discharge current that the cell will safely discharge at. In vaping terms and if the figures are to be believed, it's the current or amps that you could safely discharge the battery from full to empty in one long continuous press of the mod switch/button. I for one would certainly not want to try to prove or disprove it. I'd be very concerned what happened when it got to empty or what the mod temperatures might reach.
Vapers do not vape continuously but intermittently in short bursts of anything between 2 and 10 seconds depending on the ohmage and airflow of their device. The lower the ohmage the shorter the lug, toke, toot, drag or whatever. For some strange reason of late I have noted many referring that vapers use a "pulse" means of discharge. To them I would suggest you place a finger on the side of your neck just below your ear or perhaps just on the inside of your wrist. That steady thump you can feel is a pulse and anyone who vapes to that short, steady rhythm is in need of medical attention.
That aside, by working to the CCD figures as a means of deciding on our choice of battery, gives us a much needed safety net which is no bad thing. How close we choose to get to the CCD rates when we vape is a choice that we as individuals must make for ourselves.
2nd Column
Is the maximum resistance of the coil in relation to the amp rating given in the first column when the cell is at its peak of 4.2v.
3rd Column
Is the maximum resistance of the coil in relation to the amp rating given in the first column when the cell is approaching recharge time of 3.6v. As can be seen, both wattage and ohmage drops the more you vape a cell, although not unduly.
How to use or read the table
Basically what you do is to either decide on what range of coil resistances you are proposing to vape at and cross refer to Col.1 to get your minimum battery capacity or else if you already have batteries and when you have determined their CCD rate, scroll down Col.3 to get the maximum resistance of any coil you build. In each instance it is your choice as to what FoS or Factor of Safety to build in rather than work to a minimum. One thing to note is that the lower the resistance the greater the FoS. If you decide to vape at .5 ohms or less then I would recommend a minimum FoS of 2 if not 3. In other words if your calculations worked out at a 10A cell required, a FoS of 2 would suggest a 20A cell but personally I'd go for 30A or even higher. You might argue against overkill but it's like comparing a Ford to a Rolls Royce driving constantly at 120mph. Yes they can both do it but which car is liable to fail first?
Hopefully the table is reasonably legible.
I already posted that in another thread but I'll do it here aswell. The "Efest 18650 2500mAh 35A" batteries are rewrapped LG 18650HE2. Quoting Dampfakkus.de:
PS : And the "Efest 18650 2100mAh 30A" are rewrapped Sony US18650VTC4. Again, quoting Dampfakkus.de:
And a little picture :
Test of Efest IMR18650 2500mAh (Purple) 2014
This guy has been a benchmark for me with all battery info and has a good breakdown with different amp ratings. If you look further into his site you can also compare batteries side by side.
This guy has been a benchmark for me with all battery info and has a good breakdown with different amp ratings. If you look further into his site you can also compare batteries side by side.
Hmm and now I'm seeing Efest 18650 3100mah 20A popping up... Could I expect longer battery life than a Sony vct5 in a DNA30 with the Efest?
edit: whoops! looks like the photo i speak of is actually in *this* thread 
lol!
i knew i had seen it somewhere. didnt realize there was 1 more page to this thread before i replied
so anyway, thanks for the photo!
i cant seem to find the link at the moment, but someone showed pictures of the purple eFest 2100mah with the wrapper removed and it was a VTC4. same exact lettering and printing as you see through the wrapper on the Sony. they also showed pics of the 2500mah 35A eFest and it was an LG cell (18650HE2).
GHB1,
this is the reason why that full member you speak of (thats what she said ) attempted to correct you albeit in an apparently rude manner. you see, eFest is notorious for inflating their specs. they re-wrapped a 20A continuous LG cell and called it a 35A cell. now, tests have been done up to 60A burst on these cells, but i would never vape anywhere near that amperage (and i hope no one else does either).
and yes, your inclinations were correct regarding leaving a battery in a hot car. it is a Terrible idea that should be avoided like the plague. cells become unstable in that hot of an environment and it can also cause irreversible damage that could result in a catastrophe later down the road.
lol!i knew i had seen it somewhere. didnt realize there was 1 more page to this thread before i replied
so anyway, thanks for the photo!
i cant seem to find the link at the moment, but someone showed pictures of the purple eFest 2100mah with the wrapper removed and it was a VTC4. same exact lettering and printing as you see through the wrapper on the Sony. they also showed pics of the 2500mah 35A eFest and it was an LG cell (18650HE2).
GHB1,
this is the reason why that full member you speak of (thats what she said
) attempted to correct you albeit in an apparently rude manner. you see, eFest is notorious for inflating their specs. they re-wrapped a 20A continuous LG cell and called it a 35A cell. now, tests have been done up to 60A burst on these cells, but i would never vape anywhere near that amperage (and i hope no one else does either).and yes, your inclinations were correct regarding leaving a battery in a hot car. it is a Terrible idea that should be avoided like the plague. cells become unstable in that hot of an environment and it can also cause irreversible damage that could result in a catastrophe later down the road.
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those cells sound quite nice on paper. im looking forward to learning more about them. where are you seeing them?
Eciggity has them now, cactusesmokes are getting them on the 23rd and an unknown (to me) company ghost vapes
there are 3 important amperage ratings when it comes to batteries.
mah or Ah.milliamp or or amp hour. a battery rated 2500 mah will sustain a current of 2500 milliamps for one hour
before its discharged.give or take depending on the characteristics of the battery.
the ccr rating.that is the safe constant current that can be drawn from the battery without causing damage.
the mcr the max current rating,or the pulse current rating.thats pulse as in milliseconds.
the 30 amp and 35 amp rating discussed here are pulse ratings.
the so called tests i've seen in this post are all flawed if the constant current draw is over the safe constant current draw rating of the battery.the battery is not made to perform in spec over that rating and could cause damage to the battery.
a 2500 mah battery with a 35 amp draw will completely discharge in about 4 1/2 minutes.
that cant be good.the only thing that prevents more disasters is that the batteries are manufactured at a higher
rating then labeled at a lower rating to insure a greater safety factor.
i used to know a lot of the under rating standards used in manufacturing but cannot recall any off the top of my head.
regards
mike
mah or Ah.milliamp or or amp hour. a battery rated 2500 mah will sustain a current of 2500 milliamps for one hour
before its discharged.give or take depending on the characteristics of the battery.
the ccr rating.that is the safe constant current that can be drawn from the battery without causing damage.
the mcr the max current rating,or the pulse current rating.thats pulse as in milliseconds.
the 30 amp and 35 amp rating discussed here are pulse ratings.
the so called tests i've seen in this post are all flawed if the constant current draw is over the safe constant current draw rating of the battery.the battery is not made to perform in spec over that rating and could cause damage to the battery.
a 2500 mah battery with a 35 amp draw will completely discharge in about 4 1/2 minutes.
that cant be good.the only thing that prevents more disasters is that the batteries are manufactured at a higher
rating then labeled at a lower rating to insure a greater safety factor.
i used to know a lot of the under rating standards used in manufacturing but cannot recall any off the top of my head.
regards
mike
Well as for the 35A that is true but as posted a few posts up the 30A 2100mah purple Efest batteries are actually re-wrapped VTC4's which I confirmed with one of the 30A 2100mah Efests I own. So the 30A battery is actually rated for 30A continuous being that it is a VTC4 and that means it has a 60A "pulse" which apparently can be sustained for as long as 75 seconds though I personally wouldn't attempt it. However I did confirm that the Purple Efest 2500mah 35A is in fact a re-wrapped LG 18650HE2 which is rated for 20A continuous and 35A "pulse", which according to the LG spec sheet, can also be held for 75 seconds. Personally I've had fantastic performance from both, I've never run the "35A" Efest 2500mah at over 20A personally as I don't really find it necessary to put that much power through any coil(yet...).
let me see if i got this right max pulse draw is typically 2x max safe draw.and max safe draw is 10x of the mah?
i have spent about 4 hours googling on this subject and can not find any original from the factory specs confirming
what they actually state or recommend.there are plenty of vape and r/c sites with postings pretty much saying
what you have said.
anyway 30 amps going through 28 gauge kanthal sounds a wee bit overkill to me.
regards
mike
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