New Efest 18650 2500mah - 35 amp!

[Froth]

The whole pulse vs continuous argument/discussion has gotten a little tired to me

Honestly I personally believe that we could(note: not SHOULD) pay more attention to the PULSE ratings of a battery and LESS attention to the continuous drain rating. Honestly, have you(or anyone you know) EVER fired a battery in a vape from a full charge until it was drained to near cut-off voltage? I've personally never depressed a fire button on ANY device I own for more than 20 seconds at the very very most and since MOST pulse ratings on high drain batteries are over say a 60 second window there is no way we could ever overload them unless a hard short happened or you somehow managed to hold a button down for MORE THAN A MINUTE on a build that draws over 30A, that's sheer insanity for me to even consider being a possibility. This is how people are getting away with crazy low builds of .09 and such, they're paying attention to the pulse rating of the battery because vaping is an activity that you use pulsed current for, you take a hit...let off, take a hit...let off, take hit...let off. When you're pushing OVER 100 watts I'm fairly certain nobody fires those kinds of builds for more than 3-4 seconds during a normal hit, perhaps if you're doing some cloud chasing contests you may try to hold it a little longer but even then you would be hard pressed to exceed the pulse rating of the battery.

Continuous ratings are great for piece of mind...but NONE OF US are providing a continuous drain to the battery during vaping, it just doesn't happen.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

The whole pulse vs continuous argument/discussion has gotten a little tired to me

Honestly I personally believe that we could(note: not SHOULD) pay more attention to the PULSE ratings of a battery and LESS attention to the continuous drain rating. Honestly, have you(or anyone you know) EVER fired a battery in a vape from a full charge until it was drained to near cut-off voltage? I've personally never depressed a fire button on ANY device I own for more than 20 seconds at the very very most and since MOST pulse ratings on high drain batteries are over say a 60 second window there is no way we could ever overload them unless a hard short happened or you somehow managed to hold a button down for MORE THAN A MINUTE on a build that draws over 30A, that's sheer insanity for me to even consider being a possibility. This is how people are getting away with crazy low builds of .09 and such, they're paying attention to the pulse rating of the battery because vaping is an activity that you use pulsed current for, you take a hit...let off, take a hit...let off, take hit...let off. When you're pushing OVER 100 watts I'm fairly certain nobody fires those kinds of builds for more than 3-4 seconds during a normal hit, perhaps if you're doing some cloud chasing contests you may try to hold it a little longer but even then you would be hard pressed to exceed the pulse rating of the battery.

Continuous ratings are great for piece of mind...but NONE OF US are providing a continuous drain to the battery during vaping, it just doesn't happen.

While I agree with you, buttons do get pressed while not vaping (in bag, purse, pocket). There are things to avoid this (lock button, remove load) but it could still happen...

 

[skoony]

The whole pulse vs continuous argument/discussion has gotten a little tired to me

Honestly I personally believe that we could(note: not SHOULD) pay more attention to the PULSE ratings of a battery and LESS attention to the continuous drain rating. Honestly, have you(or anyone you know) EVER fired a battery in a vape from a full charge until it was drained to near cut-off voltage? I've personally never depressed a fire button on ANY device I own for more than 20 seconds at the very very most and since MOST pulse ratings on high drain batteries are over say a 60 second window there is no way we could ever overload them unless a hard short happened or you somehow managed to hold a button down for MORE THAN A MINUTE on a build that draws over 30A, that's sheer insanity for me to even consider being a possibility. This is how people are getting away with crazy low builds of .09 and such, they're paying attention to the pulse rating of the battery because vaping is an activity that you use pulsed current for, you take a hit...let off, take a hit...let off, take hit...let off. When you're pushing OVER 100 watts I'm fairly certain nobody fires those kinds of builds for more than 3-4 seconds during a normal hit, perhaps if you're doing some cloud chasing contests you may try to hold it a little longer but even then you would be hard pressed to exceed the pulse rating of the battery.

Continuous ratings are great for piece of mind...but NONE OF US are providing a continuous drain to the battery during vaping, it just doesn't happen.

thanks for the info.i agree no one is is firing up a device for 60 seconds.that being said,there is a reason there is a max pulse rating.
to take into account firing up dead circuits is one.circuits with capacitors or torquing up a drill motor or other type of servo,etc.. .
these are measured in milliseconds bursts typically.even though your not maxing out the full pulse duration the accumulative effect
has to have an effect over time.i don't think one can do 50 second draws(for theoretical purposes only)and expect the battery
to have a normal life cycle.the battery ratings are a design parameter for the engineers designing the circuits they will be used
in.getting a useful life out of the charge and a good lifetime use of the battery is an important consideration.
as long as one knows the limitations involved i can see where it is safe enough.my point is batteries are not made to be
used at max pulse current only.its there if you need it from time to time.
ask any R/C guy how many battery packs he's toasted.

thanks again,regards
mike

excuse my syntax,i don't know why it comes out that way.

 

[Froth]

While I agree with you, buttons do get pressed while not vaping (in bag, purse, pocket). There are things to avoid this (lock button, remove load) but it could still happen...

Very true, I definitely should have added the word intentionally to the statement about the length of firing a mod. I do have a rather slow friend who has almost caught his pocket on fire twice by not locking his mod before tossing it in there.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Very true, I definitely should have added the word intentionally to the statement about the length of firing a mod. I do have a rather slow friend who has almost caught his pocket on fire twice by not locking his mod before tossing it in there.

It happens, so it's more a safety concern in that aspect, not as much as actually vaping with the battery. 10secs is too long at something pushing 30A.
But I do wonder what maxing a pulse rating would do to the longevity of a cell

 

[PapaGeno21]

So if you guys were going to use a DNA 30 mod, would you rather use:

LG18650HE2 2500MAH
Efest 35A 2500MAH (Apparently a re-wrapped LG)
Sony VTC4
Efest 2100MAH 30A

Those are what I have on hand. I am getting the same run times from the VTC4's and the Efest 2100 30A which makes sense if the Efest is just a re-wrapped Sony... lol

Maybe I should pick up an Efest 3100MAH battery? Or is that something else as well?

 

[CurlyxCracker]

So if you guys were going to use a DNA 30 mod, would you rather use:

LG18650HE2 2500MAH
Efest 35A 2500MAH (Apparently a re-wrapped LG)
Sony VTC4
Efest 2100MAH 30A

Those are what I have on hand. I am getting the same run times from the VTC4's and the Efest 2100 30A which makes sense if the Efest is just a re-wrapped Sony... lol

Maybe I should pick up an Efest 3100MAH battery? Or is that something else as well?

I'm getting my efest 3100 tomorrow!

 

[Baditude]

So if you guys were going to use a DNA 30 mod, would you rather use:
Maybe I should pick up an Efest 3100MAH battery? Or is that something else as well?

I'm getting my efest 3100 tomorrow!

No, that's a low-drain protected ICR battery. You want a high-drain IMR or hybrid battery. Probably one of the 30 amp batteries.

You have a regulated mod which can generate 30 watts of power; where is all of that power going to come from? You need a high-drain, high-amp battery.

There's more to picking a battery than choosing the one with the most "mAh's", guys. Battery chemistry (ICR, IMR, hybrid) and amp capacity are also important depending upon the application you'll be using.

With flashlights or other low-drain applications, sure mAh's are the most important spec to consider when choosing a battery. Our mods are a different animal altogether. The chemistry (safe vs volatile), high-drain vs low-drain, amp rating, internal resistance, as well as mAh are important for our uses.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

No, that's a low-drain protected ICR battery. You want a high-drain IMR or hybrid battery. Probably one of the 30 amp batteries.

You have a regulated mod which can generate 30 watts of power; where is all of that power going to come from? You need a high-drain, high-amp battery.

There's more to picking a battery than choosing the one with the most "mAh's", guys. Battery chemistry (ICR, IMR, hybrid) and amp capacity are also important depending upon the application you'll be using.

With flashlights or other low-drain applications, sure mAh's are the most important spec to consider when choosing a battery. Our mods are a different animal altogether. The chemistry (safe vs volatile), high-drain vs low-drain, amp rating, internal resistance, as well as mAh are important for our uses.

Are you sure you're referring to the new purple 3100mah 20A? It's definitely an IMR.
http://efestpower.com/Product/1908425029.html

 

[PapaGeno21]

The dna can't really pull more than 8-9 amps so the 30a is not really needed. What I was asking is if you would rather use an LG or the Sony.

 

[Froth]

The dna can't really pull more than 8-9 amps so the 30a is not really needed. What I was asking is if you would rather use an LG or the Sony.

Honestly if you're staying around 10amps or even a bit over it the LG 18650HE2 is a fantastic battery, my every day beater mod is a dual 18650 bottom feeder and I run it with dual LG 18650HE2's for 5000mah and when fully charged at 4.2v I can vape the entire 10ml bottle with a .44 ohm build and have both batteries end up at 3.45-3.56 volts at the end of the bottle which is basically perfect for me and lasts on average 3 full days between charging. Really great performance above 20a, low voltage drop and consistent. Past 20A the VTC4 and VTC5 really outperform the LG.

Also, when you listed batteries in the previous post you listed the Efest 2100mah 30A battery, that is actually a confirmed re-wrapped VTC4. Batteries need specific information printed on them to be sold for individual sale which is why many batteries have a sticker added to them before there are sold that lists the specifics, so what Efest does is purchase large bulk amounts of these batteries that do not have this info(Like Sony and LG cells) and then wraps them with specified information to be sold as individual batteries to the masses. This is why they are putting out so many batteries that are simply changed wrappers. The purple 35A 2500mah is an LG 18650HE2 - Confirmed. The purple 30A 2100mah is a Sony VTC4 - Confirmed. I have not come across any information about their newest cell for sale the 20A 3100mah but I would venture that it is also a re-wrapped commercially available 18650.

 

[Baditude]

Are you sure you're referring to the new purple 3100mah 20A? It's definitely an IMR.
http://efestpower.com/Product/1908425029.html

My mistake. I hadn't seen this battery yet.

I'll reserve judgement on this battery once we find out more about it. Seeing how Efest has exaggerated amp and mAh ratings in the past, lets find out what's REALLY inside this battery.

 

[maf2k8]

So can anyone recommend the best batteries for a 50watt dual 18650 box mod? It needs to be button top though. I was looking at the eFest purple ones. Would those be my best bet?

 

[Sptz]

How does this new Efest Purple fare against the VTC5? I was thinking of grabbing a couple of these in nipple top for my 4nine mod.

 

[BigDaddyQ]

I believe the EFest 35Amp 2500 mAh batteries are indeed rewrapped LGDBHE21865 batteries. And while they may be listed by some as "ICR," I've seen plenty of listings of them as IMR. They are actually high drain LiMnO2 not LiCoO2 as per LG. They do indeed have a 20 amp continuous drain with max burst of 35 amp. And while I respect Strontium's stringent don't ever use an ICR in a mech mod opinion, these are not technically ICR type batteries. I've safely been using them in my mods, both apv and mech with builds as low as 0.3 (I don't usually go lower.) They last longer than either my Sony VTC4 and Sony VTC5 batteries. At 30W in my apv I get roughly 4 to 5 hours of vaping time as compared to 2 to 3 on VTC5 and barely 2 on VTC4. Let's try not to bash each other. Remember, in the long run, we are all vapers and want to vape safely.


Edited to correct discharge rates. (Thank you Froth)

 

[Froth]

I believe the EFest 35Amp 2500 mAh batteries are indeed rewrapped LGDBHE21865 batteries. And while they may be listed by some as "ICR," I've seen plenty of listings of them as IMR. They are actually high drain LiMnO2 not LiCoO2 as per LG. They do indeed have a 35 amp continuous drain with max burst of 50amp. And while I respect Strontium's stringent don't ever use an ICR in a mech mod opinion, these are not technically ICR type batteries. I've safely been using them in my mods, both apv and mech with builds as low as 0.3 (I don't usually go lower.) They last longer than either my Sony VTC4 and Sony VTC5 batteries. At 30W in my apv I get roughly 4 to 5 hours of vaping time as compared to 2 to 3 on VTC5 and barely 2 on VTC4. Let's try not to bash each other. Remember, in the long run, we are all vapers and want to vape safely.

That LG Number(LGDBHE21865) is what is printed on the side of all LG18650HE2 batteries that are sold, It has already been discussed in this thread about the 35A Efest batteries being confirmed as LG18650HE2. However, you've got the drain ratings incorrect as they are 20A continuous and 35A PULSE, as specified by the LG spec sheet so please be mindful of that. You'll have much better luck searching for info on that battery by looking for LG18650HE2, do not use the "LGDB" designation that is on the wrapper.

 

[BigDaddyQ]

That LG Number(LGDBHE21865) is what is printed on the side of all LG18650HE2 batteries that are sold, It has already been discussed in this thread about the 35A Efest batteries being confirmed as LG18650HE2. However, you've got the drain ratings incorrect as they are 20A continuous and 35A PULSE, as specified by the LG spec sheet so please be mindful of that. You'll have much better luck searching for info on that battery by looking for LG18650HE2, do not use the "LGDB" designation that is on the wrapper.

Corrected, it was late and I did indeed type the wrong numbers in. 20 amp continuous discharge and 35 amp max burst. Post corrected.

 

[okeephoss]

Just got two in the mail and they don't work in any of my devices. They're accepting a charge but won't fire on my mechs and vamo won't even turn on. Very confused by this

 

[Baditude]

Just got two in the mail and they don't work in any of my devices. They're accepting a charge but won't fire on my mechs and vamo won't even turn on. Very confused by this

Which batteries are you speaking of? The purple Efests?

It could be that your mods require button top batteries?

 

[okeephoss]

Which batteries are you speaking of? The purple Efests?

It could be that your mods require button top batteries?

Yes, the purple ones.. Same exact shape as my Green Sony's which work in everything. So friggin weird. Charger says they're full.