New Efest 18650 2500mah - 35 amp!
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That battery is a decent choice for your mod. If you have read through this thread, then you should know by now that your purple Efest 35 amp batteries are actually rewrapped 20 amp LG IMR batteries. Not a big deal in a DNA mod. The DNA chip needs at least 12 amps, so you're covered.
Thanks for that. Do you know the position regarding the purple Efest 3100 mAh claiming 20A on the wrap please?
As far as I have researched, nobody knows what battery cell is actually hiding under the new Purple 3100mah 20A wrapper yet so the exact specifications are unknown, none of the flashlight guys have done any tests yet either.
QUOTE=RedMoxy69;13125080]Question here WITHOUT graphs, etc. what/is there a difference between the (purple Efest 18650's O-N-L-Y) 2100/30A, the 2500/35A & the 3100/20A besides the Mah/how long between charges??? IF so, does it have to do with the A??? I am looking for use in a VAMO & not a sub Ohm Vaper either, not looking to get very technical. I ask because a site recommends the 2100/30A only for VAMO & others paired for use with other Mods, I hesitate due to the 30/35/20A & where they lost me (not that that's too hard to do anyways, LOL!)-THANX FOR ALL REPLIES/HELP GUYS!!! Why do i feel as though i'm about to be remanded back to a remedial science class?![/QUOTE]
RedMoxy69,
I agree with you!
I'd like a simple, layman's terms answer, also. I've been vaping for about 15 months & I have a V5 that I got for Mothers' Day. I'd like to know the difference in batteries:
What does the 18*%0 represent?
What does the **00/**A mean?
What is a push-button battery?
Do the push-button batteries work in specific devices?
What brands seem to be most consistent?
Who stays charged longest?
Which battery has the longest life?
How do I know if a battery is getting ready to completely die???
Do they all 'pop' & give off a bad smell when they die?
Any good 'rule of thumb' notes for these batteries?
I don't 'modify' anything other than my ejuice. I simply started using a V5 for all the 'little things' like watts/amps, measuring rebuilt wick ohms, keeping track of battery usage & being able to buy replacements @ a fraction of what I pay for my 'Spinners' (I REFUSE to completely give up Spinners). In other words, I just bought my V5 as a slight upgrade in aesthetics & functionality.... I didn't NEED to do it. So, I need 'regular information'.... all the other explanations seem to be waayyy too tech-garbled for me & it doesn't tell me anything except how ignorant I am about the 'mod-side' of vaping.
Thank you to everyone that has posted about these batteries. I am trying to decipher it all.... but, it's soooo much info. I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around all of it.
(You don't have to be 'smart' to vape.... but, complete ...... may end up choking to death!)
RedMoxy69,
I agree with you!
I'd like a simple, layman's terms answer, also. I've been vaping for about 15 months & I have a V5 that I got for Mothers' Day. I'd like to know the difference in batteries:
What does the 18*%0 represent?
What does the **00/**A mean?
What is a push-button battery?
Do the push-button batteries work in specific devices?
What brands seem to be most consistent?
Who stays charged longest?
Which battery has the longest life?
How do I know if a battery is getting ready to completely die???
Do they all 'pop' & give off a bad smell when they die?
Any good 'rule of thumb' notes for these batteries?
I don't 'modify' anything other than my ejuice. I simply started using a V5 for all the 'little things' like watts/amps, measuring rebuilt wick ohms, keeping track of battery usage & being able to buy replacements @ a fraction of what I pay for my 'Spinners' (I REFUSE to completely give up Spinners). In other words, I just bought my V5 as a slight upgrade in aesthetics & functionality.... I didn't NEED to do it. So, I need 'regular information'.... all the other explanations seem to be waayyy too tech-garbled for me & it doesn't tell me anything except how ignorant I am about the 'mod-side' of vaping.
Thank you to everyone that has posted about these batteries. I am trying to decipher it all.... but, it's soooo much info. I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around all of it.
(You don't have to be 'smart' to vape.... but, complete ...... may end up choking to death!)
Ive been using these Efest 18650 35a for months. Never have I had an issue. I own 4 pairs labeled for each device, all which are mech mods running (parallel)dual coil at .22ohms or dual coil @ .8ohms. I never let them go under 3.7 and never charge them over 4.2v. These have out preformed any other VCT or LG battery I have used. Even on the the Efest mfc website tells you how to look for a fake.
Image Here
Oh if you would take time to measure the batteries you would notice that the LG or VCT are .5mm difference
Efest -Size: 65mm(L)x18mm(D)
LG- Max. H 65.2 mm x Max. D 18.5 mm
Sony-65.0mm (L) x 18.2mm (D)
Image Here
Oh if you would take time to measure the batteries you would notice that the LG or VCT are .5mm difference
Efest -Size: 65mm(L)x18mm(D)
LG- Max. H 65.2 mm x Max. D 18.5 mm
Sony-65.0mm (L) x 18.2mm (D)
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RedMoxy69 said:
sharnon007 said:
What do all those numbers and letters really mean?
Battery identification can be one of the most difficult aspects of battery purchasing. All batteries are not created equal and just because two batteries are labeled IMR18650, does not mean they have the same capabilities, characteristics and safety features.
The batteries we use in e-cigarettes generally follow an industry defined identification scheme consisting of 3 letters followed by 5 numbers, ie. IMR18650, ICR14500, NCR18650 etc. The first three letters indicate the battery basic construction and capabilities. The following series of numbers indicate the batteries approximate physical size.
The entire sequence can be broken down as such:
The first letter indicates the basic chemical makeup of the battery. "I" indicates the battery is a Lithium Ion class battery.
The second, and most important letter indicates the material. "C" indicates the material as cobalt; "M" indicates manganese; "N" indicates nickel. Knowing this, "ICR" means Li-Ion/cobalt; "IMR" means Li-Ion/manganese. Using manganese or nickel makes the battery a "safer chemistry" and in most cases a "high drain" battery. The newer IMR/hybrid batteries use a mixture of ICR and IMR chemistries to gain the better attributes of both.
ICR batteries are not considered safe chemistry or high drain batteries, and are considered to be obsolete for mod use. ICR batteries vent flames and can explode when they go into thermal runaway. Their amp limits are typically less than 4 amps. These are best used for flashlights or other low drain applications.
Battery capacity (how long a battery should last on a charge) is listed as a "mAh" rating. It's not an exact science, but 100 mAh is roughly equal to 1 hour battery use. 2000 mAh should last roughly 20 hours use. 700 mAh should last 7 hours.
The battery identifier described above tells a basic story on what the battery can handle, but for an ecigarette, and more notably modders, one of the most important ratings is the maximum continuous discharge rate. The maximum discharge rate (amps) became more prevalent when vapors started building their own coils. With the natural progression of things, our extreme inner drive to produce more vapor, and sub-ohm (< 1.0 ohm) resistance coils, we are dancing dangerously close to the physical limitations of lithium ion batteries.
An atomizer coil draws a specific amount of current (amps) from the battery. That current must not be more than the total amps in continuous discharge rate of the battery, or very bad things could happen.
Amp ratings: The maximum continuous discharge rate is a battery specification which indicates how much current (Amps) you can draw from the battery without causing physical harm to the battery. Pull more than the maximum discharge rating and the battery becomes unstable, goes into a irreversable state of thermal runaway and can exhaust hot gasses, flames or explode. Quite often, a mod's features will include terms like “battery vent holes”. These holes are in place to safely guide hot gasses and flames away from your face in the case of most battery failures so the mod does not become a pipe bomb from the pressure buildup of gases.
_________________________
The difference in the 18650 purple Efest batteries are in the mAh rating (battery capacity, or how long the battery should last on a charge during use) and the amp rating. Be aware that Efest and a few other brands are inconsistant in how in how they report their battery specs. These brands often list the "pulse" amp rating, and not the "continuous discharge" amp rating. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
As far as your general regulated VV/VW 18650 mods, you only need to use a high drain IMR battery with 10 amps. This is because of the PWM circuitry which can draw up to 9 amps from the battery. After that first priority is met, choose the battery with the higher mAh rating.
The high wattage DNA 20 - 50 watt regulated mods will need a 20 - 30 amp battery (minimum 12 amp high drain battery).
If using sub-ohm coils on a mechanical mod, one must use an Ohm's Law calculator to determine how many amps are required for the ohm of the coil that is going to be built. This may require a 20 - 30 amp battery.
List of high drain IMR batteries and their amp ratings
___
The AW IMR batteries are argueably the most reliable and consistant battery on the market. Are there batteris which last longer on a charge? Yes there are. Are there batteries which have a higher amp rating? Yes there are. However, for general purpose use AW batteries are the best batteries available.
Not all batteries are created equal when they leave the factory. AW (Andrew Wan) is a battery distributor in Hong Kong who buys large shipments from the better manufacturers in Japan. He and his staff inspect/test each individual battery for quality and performance. The top tier get chosen to become AW batteries.
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Now THIS is a man that can discern a tibia from a petacarpal. [emoji106]
Nice work, bad.
I own 12 of the 35a efest's and I vape them in a Stingray mechanical with a Tugboat at .18 ohms with no problems whatsoever. I get about an hour of quality vape time at this resistance, and I just recently switched to a 24g .3 ohm setup with even longer vape time. I have never experienced batteries getting warm or any signs of failure.
I know I am late to the party here, but I wanted to give another thumbs up for the 35a batteries. My wife and I both got these batteries when we got into mechs and I have had zero complaints with them, I am running a plume veil on a panzer with dual 24g 8 wraps which is around .2, she has a tobh atty on a panzer with the same coil set up and again no problems at all. We have no issues with heat and we can literally use these batteries all day long without having to recharge even with such low resistance. I think the steam engine calculator puts us around 130 to 140 5 second puffs with this set up and considering we only puff for about 1-2 seconds you can see the insane life we get from these things.. I will say that I am going to be buying AW cells simply because everything I have read says they are the best and I tend to favor the best of things but for the time being I have zero complaints with these e-fest batteries.
I will probably get some flack for this but I want to mention that these batteries really got my trust when my wife was having issues with her AR mod, the button was not making good contact due to the idiotic magnets in there and so it would get extremely hot and at one point my wife's button was actually flashing from the short in it, you could look and see the sparks in the button, now of course at that point I made her stop using it, but until we saw it happening this battery took it and had no issues, we are still using that battery and it works just as good as when new.
I will probably get some flack for this but I want to mention that these batteries really got my trust when my wife was having issues with her AR mod, the button was not making good contact due to the idiotic magnets in there and so it would get extremely hot and at one point my wife's button was actually flashing from the short in it, you could look and see the sparks in the button, now of course at that point I made her stop using it, but until we saw it happening this battery took it and had no issues, we are still using that battery and it works just as good as when new.
Umm sorry to say you are way off on your Battery capacity times!
1000 mAh is = to 1 Amp running for 1 hr.
So it really depends on the ohm of the coil or how many volts/watts you are running in to the coil.
for example I run 1.0 ohm coil (unregulated) in my kayfun and chain vape like crazy and my 2500 mAh battery lasts about 10 hrs or less.
If I'm using my .2 ohm ohm coil (unregulated) RDA I can drain my 2600 mAh battery in a few hrs!
So if i was explaining mAh numbers to a newbie
I would say the higher the mAh the longer it lasts and if you want to know how many puffs you get from the different mAh batteries.
First you need to know the ohms of the coil you are using.
The average tank with replaceable coils are 1.6, 1.8 or 2.0 ohm
second are you using a device that you can change the volts or watts?
If you are then you are using a regulated device.
If not you are using a unregulated device
now that you know your ohms ( Ω ) and if its regulated or not
you can go to www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp and use the battery drain calculator
Put in your mAh of the battery the ohms and if using a regulated device switch to regulated and put in the volts or watts you like to use.
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I found exactly the same thing.
VTC 4 would hit hard on my manhattan with Tobh Atty 0.5 ohm.... And it will last quite a while... With Efest, the power is too weak so that after a Sony in it, I have to try to hear if the thing is firing cause it has too low power.... Will stay away from Efest Purple and stick with Sony VTC 4.
VTC 4 would hit hard on my manhattan with Tobh Atty 0.5 ohm.... And it will last quite a while... With Efest, the power is too weak so that after a Sony in it, I have to try to hear if the thing is firing cause it has too low power.... Will stay away from Efest Purple and stick with Sony VTC 4.
Ugggh just found out... seems I got the fake one.... The photos can't really tell the difference except that mine has no Efest sticker on it, and on the bottom one, from the photo it looks like the fake one purple wrapper is wrapping less portion of the bottom part which looks like mine
Don't buy Efest because you are running the risk of explosion on your face each time you inhale your vape using Efest batteries. On the other hand, Sonys are like the gods of batteries and folks should pay $100 a pop for it. 
I know I'm late to the party but this is what I have seen so far at my local vape shop. Everyone uses the 35 amp 2500mah e fest purple batteries. The guy at the local shop said not to go below .12 ohm with them as its 35 amps at 4.2 volts and to be honest no one is getting the 4.2 volts out of the batteries because of voltage drop from the mech and the mech to atty connection. He said a more realistic figure is 4volts and that is still 33 amps on a 35amp battery (so to say). He said the 35 amp rating on the battery is more like a pulse rate and to try to stay below that when using the mech with 3 second burst hits and everything should be safe
I started around .5ohms 3 weeks ago and it just wasn't enough for me so I gradually went lower and lower until I reached my point today where I am liking the results. I good at .16 ohms with a 24g dual coil parallel build in a mutation x on a copper penny mod with a 35amp efest 2500mah battery, which puts me at 26amps and 110watts. I definitely like a warmer vape but I can't handle plume veil hot
I couldn't imagine going lower ohm wise because the juice consumption would be ......ed, it's already pretty bad with my setup, I killed a 15ml bottle of liquid in only 3 days. I hear of people going lower then .1 on a 18650 battery and that just doesn't seem smart or safe in the slightest sense. Eventually when I save up some cash I will ditch the mod and get a regulated device like a IPV 3 or something under 150 watts, but until then I'm on the mech mod
I started around .5ohms 3 weeks ago and it just wasn't enough for me so I gradually went lower and lower until I reached my point today where I am liking the results. I good at .16 ohms with a 24g dual coil parallel build in a mutation x on a copper penny mod with a 35amp efest 2500mah battery, which puts me at 26amps and 110watts. I definitely like a warmer vape but I can't handle plume veil hot
I couldn't imagine going lower ohm wise because the juice consumption would be ......ed, it's already pretty bad with my setup, I killed a 15ml bottle of liquid in only 3 days. I hear of people going lower then .1 on a 18650 battery and that just doesn't seem smart or safe in the slightest sense. Eventually when I save up some cash I will ditch the mod and get a regulated device like a IPV 3 or something under 150 watts, but until then I'm on the mech mod
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