New EGO TANK system.

[nikk4s]

We are lucky in this case that the coil is not designed to coil around the wick as it does in the CE2. In that case it destroys the ability to get juice to the coil. In this case, I think it quickly burns off any excess on the first button push and continues wicking to the coil. I am not noticing any burning taste, in fact, it tastes cleaner than it did with the original wick. These are my novice opinions but this mod has made an unusable product work for me. I have ordered 2 from OvaleUSA to replace my modded TW. I hope they perform better out of the box then the TW ones did. If not, I'll play with them too.

 

[Eighttrucktires]

I can't resist any longer. Where is the best deal on these things?

 

[Java_Az]

I can't resist any longer. Where is the best deal on these things?

If you have a ego already the Atomizer and tanks @ volcano are the cheapest i have seen so far. If you use first class mail you can get a pack of tanks and a atomizer for less then 19 bucks shipped.

 

[Pav]

Pav, the ones I have range from 2.1 to 2.3Ω. I've seen some testing at 2.6 on the first ones from Ovale though. And 'ournature' says that LRs are on their way.... few pages back....

Thanks K. I just got these from Cignot so pretty sure they're newer versions. And the TH difference is pretty small. Would be interesting to see those LRs when they're available though.

 

[Eighttrucktires]

I have a 3.7v box mod with a 510 connector... That would work, huh? Or maybe the best deal on a whole kit.
Thanks!

 

[Java_Az]

I have a 3.7v box mod with a 510 connector... That would work, huh? Or maybe the best deal on a whole kit.
Thanks!

I doubt a box mod will work. The skirt on the atomizer comes down almost a 1/2 inch from where the connector screws in. So i doubt you will have the clearance.

 

[DaveP]

Thanks, Kent, for the info. Mine is from Cignot, so it should be V2.

I've been stuck on the Joye cylinder atty for 6 months now and it's the best I've experienced yet. It even beat the CE2 Rev 4 for me, but there are those who say that with some mods the CE2 works just fine.

 

[CloudBurst]

Kent, how long is the piece of PTB?

 

[Scottbee]

We are lucky in this case that the coil is not designed to coil around the wick as it does in the CE2. In that case it destroys the ability to get juice to the coil. In this case, I think it quickly burns off any excess on the first button push and continues wicking to the coil. I am not noticing any burning taste, in fact, it tastes cleaner than it did with the original wick. These are my novice opinions but this mod has made an unusable product work for me. I have ordered 2 from OvaleUSA to replace my modded TW. I hope they perform better out of the box then the TW ones did. If not, I'll play with them too.

I've read your posts, and while I admire your ingenuity, I would strongly suggest against replacing the wick with PTB or blue foam. The wick is designed to be in direct contact with the coil. The coil can (and will) glow red-hot. And that will absolutely cause the PTB and/or blue foam to melt. There is no doubt about it.

I too removed the piercing plate on one of my atties with a needle nose pliers. I did this because hydraulic pressure from installing a VERY full tank pushed the wick assembly out of the piercing tube into the coil pot. I was able to put the original wick system (nickel mesh and wick) back in place.... but if it hadn't been in good shape I would have replaced it with the silica rope strands that I have.

 

[Scottbee]

As an aside: Having the piercing plate off..... if you are so inclined..... makes it a lot easier to do a dry burn and clean the internals. With the plate off I was able to clearly see the coil, and was actually able to scrape off some of the carbonized crud that wasn't readily turning to ash. Not for the faint of heart, and only as a last resort..... but in my particular case it worked quite well.

P.S. I also moved the coil "off to one side" in the coil pot... this exposed the bottom air passage (which I then cleaned out) and the net result was an "easier" draw.

 

[Kent C]

Thanks, Kent, for the info. Mine is from Cignot, so it should be V2.

I've been stuck on the Joye cylinder atty for 6 months now and it's the best I've experienced yet. It even beat the CE2 Rev 4 for me, but there are those who say that with some mods the CE2 works just fine.

Same here on the Joye cylinder attys - now all replaced I gave up on the CE2 except for the wetbox because it bottom feeds but gave up on the wetbox recently... not enough wattage getting through and regular 510 attys burn the switch. It still a great idea but needs a heavier duty switch...

 

[Kent C]

Kent, how long is the piece of PTB?

That's nikk4s on the PBT, not me. If I ever needed anything like that I'd likely use wicking instead - doesn't burn and I have some CE2s I could destroy for the wick

Also see Scottbee's post to nikk4s - 3 above this one...

 

[Kent C]

I've read your posts, and while I admire your ingenuity, I would strongly suggest against replacing the wick with PTB or blue foam. The wick is designed to be in direct contact with the coil. The coil can (and will) glow red-hot. And that will absolutely cause the PTB and/or blue foam to melt. There is no doubt about it.

I too removed the piercing plate on one of my atties with a needle nose pliers. I did this because hydraulic pressure from installing a VERY full tank pushed the wick assembly out of the piercing tube into the coil pot. I was able to put the original wick system (nickel mesh and wick) back in place.... but if it hadn't been in good shape I would have replaced it with the silica rope strands that I have.

Interesting on how that happened Also agree with you on wick material. I might also say I wouldn't push the wicking down the spike either, but ymmv, opinions, etc. etc.

 

[Lightgeoduck]

As an aside: Having the piercing plate off..... if you are so inclined..... makes it a lot easier to do a dry burn and clean the internals. With the plate off I was able to clearly see the coil, and was actually able to scrape off some of the carbonized crud that wasn't readily turning to ash. Not for the faint of heart, and only as a last resort..... but in my particular case it worked quite well.

P.S. I also moved the coil "off to one side" in the coil pot... this exposed the bottom air passage (which I then cleaned out) and the net result was an "easier" draw.

+1... nothing further to say ..

 

[Katya]

Kent C
Oh, so now you're into LR and the hot vape

Almost missed that little jab.

Yes, as a matter of fact, I am. I think that my fear of high wattage vaping had to do with the poor quality of the hardware I was using. I had some 2.1-2.3Ω cartomizers that would sizzle, sputter and fry/short on me without any provocation. I hated that. This tankomizer is so different. Even though my atties are in the 2.1-2.2Ω range, they don't cook my eliquids at all. The vape is smooth, rich and immensely satisfying. And the taste of my ejuices is so much improved that I hardly recognize some of them. Especially my Halo Menthol Ice and most of the BWB blends. I had a bottle of BWB RY4 that's been sitting in my closet since October because is just tasted too harsh. I put it in a tank today just out of curiosity and it's fantastic--complex, rich, not too sweet. Go figure.

So, yes, I'm looking forward to trying a 1.8Ω atty. Living dangerously.

 

[greyrat]

Where did the pictures go?

 

[nikk4s]

Scottbee. Thank you for your info. I saw something about silica rope somewhere in the forums but my memory is near nill. If you would care to provide some info on that, I would gladly perform corrective surgery. And I was happy to see a way to better clean these as well, although like you, I would not tear apart a functional atty. My coil was already off to one side although that may be due to the brutal stabbing that killed it the first time.

 

[keitht253]

An interesting observation:

I had one of my "newer" T-atties develop a "leak". Once it got down to about 1/4 tank, it would piss the rest of the contents right through the atty. And this is a problem that came with time.. it didn't do it when it was new.

A good cleaning didn't fix the problem (alcohol, water, etc..)... but when it came time to do a good dry-burn I notice something. Looking down through the piercing needle I could clearly see the glow of the coil through a "hole" in the wick. It was a straight-thru shot.. with an off-center hole of about .015" in diameter.

I went down into the piercing needle with a sewing needle, and re-positioned and "fluffed" the wick, just like I had done with my first eval atty. I tested my work by doing another dry-burn and looking for the coil glow. No longer a "direct path", although you can see a translucent glow through the needle/wick.

Problem solved.. no longer a "leaker".

Note: this is just an FYI data point.

Hey Scottbee, can you elaborate on this process? I seem to have pushed the wick a little too far and have also developed a little leak. Tried going in with a bobby pin with the tip bent a little bit to try to pull the wick back up but to no avail. Also, not very clear on how you were able to fluff the wick using the needle. Any help would be great!

 

[keitht253]

Another question, does the plate with the piercing tip pull out fairly easily. I don't have any needlenose pliers handy right now but plan to try this in the near future. If anyone could outline the process, I'm sure it'd help a lot of people on here.

 

[Pur3Rush]

Soooo um yeah. My vaping Nirvana was interruped by my cart leaking. It was nearly full and I layed it on it's side for an hour or so and when I picked up juice everywhere. What the hell? Anybody got any ideas.