New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

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Cloud Wizard

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Hi to everyone!!!:laugh:
I am back !!!!!!
FULL OF ENERGY and IDEAS
On Monday I will be back to work!
I do not complain
My mind was here all the time
So I am really happy and need to put one more product in the DID collection and this is the Gemini
At the end of this week I will have Kanthal wire 0.2mm
I will have enouph for all of us:thumbs: do not worry about this anymore!!
I do not have the price yet

So? What's the poop? Good food, good drink?
 

kabonk

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Those ProVari E errors are a pain in the ...., BUT for me I know when this happens my ProVari is telling me " your DID isn't right Patti- fix it!" LOL
you're probably right but it seems like my V2s have a higher tolerance so I'm going to send in my V1s for an upgrade if they let me
 

Gomtuu

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Yes, pretty flush, but not quite touching. There is about 2 hairs of space. I think it would sit flush if the Center Post were raised a hair... but I'm not touching this fresh new perfect coil to find out lol.
Rest assured, it's not noticeable unless you have it at eye level. It's very miminal space.

Oh, I know, right!? Picture the outter wrap with snakeskin, carbon, camo, abstract matrix, and so on for a mile. Wait til you see the itsy bitsy 18350 video. Talk about tiny! It makes the P+ 18350 look huge lol.

But I must get a mini-pro first... to know that I've mastered the coils... right? Or should I just go for the mechanical Chameleon and buy a truckload of springs?

Thanks, Uma. That's something else I've been wondering: How do you adjust the positive post up so that it screws deeper into a mod's 510 connection? I guess if I took my DID apart I could just see how that works, but I'm being lazy. I would imagine, also, that it wouldn't go that far up before it starting entering the mouth piece hole. :blink: :facepalm:

As cool as that Chameleon looks with different sleeves, I like a simpler look on my mods, so I'd probably opt for parts that all matched, in some version of stainless steel, chrome or black. But that's just boring ol' Gomtuu. If I was feeling frisky, I might go for like a blood red sleeve or something. :laugh:

I am the wrong guy to ask the ProVari versus mechanical question, since I have neither (and want both). If pressed, I say get the Chameleon, as the ProVari will probably be easier to acquire down the road.

You know what I'm gonna do right now? Wrap a new coil. Because I can. And because this twisted wrap is sucking the life out of my 18650s. I only have three, and they take so long to charge. :laugh:
 

mike n

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WOW.. I have not been on for a few weeks and normally do a forum serch for the did and I can find it here but today there are sooo many forums that popped up I had a hard time getting here...

Anyway, i did not want to bother Jim cause you guys probally have an answer... Do you know when Stainless stell parts are going to be available on e-vape? And what parts are they, I want a center post (do I need it?), screws and nuts.

Does stainless really make a difference? I saw some picture of the did recently that had stainless stuff and wondered where they got it. I do no see anything on the site.

Mike N
 

Cloud Wizard

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you're probably right but it seems like my V2s have a higher tolerance so I'm going to send in my V1s for an upgrade if they let me

You should. for $20 they upgrade the electronics and the additional amperage on the switch make all the difference....
 

Striker911

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It really does! I'm sticking with the stock airhole for now, but lemme tell you that the th, flavor, and vp are all out of this world! The finish and engravings are just so elegant and tasteful, the posts are among the best constructed I've ever seen, and the dimensions of it are just perfect! I'll do a full review whenever my Internet comes back online and I'm able to upload my tutorial, but for now ill try and keep everyone updated with pics and maybe some quick videos uploaded to flickr. The mini truly is perfect though, it's practically a work of art.
That's awesome. Have to get me one then. In the pictures it did seem boss. Will have to get me one in the next month then. Really only can get a few and looks like Jim gets most of my love. Its, DID, DID mini, ZAU, and HellFire. I only get 3. What should I drop off the list? Be honest. I know you have a good answer.
 

denali_41

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I saw some picture of the did recently that had stainless stuff and wondered where they got it. I do no see anything on the site.

Mike N

i had noticed that also and asked jim,,he told me so far only the mini did has the stainless center post

brass conducts electricity so much better then stainless will,so i am sticking with brass !!
 

Striker911

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My DID is trippin. Started at 1.4ohm and now its jumping all over. Had my finger between the ProV at the top and part on the tank. It got so hot by the battery connecter that I had to get my finger moved in a hurry. Now the Ohms are all over the place. 2.0- 2.9 ohms in a matter of seconds. Think I better wrap a new coil.
 

KickServe

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Maybe I can help or just confuse you more. Making a wire thicker makes it more conductive. If you where ever into car audio you know amps need a certain gauge of power wire for optimization. Resistance is going to be lower due to the ease of flow. Like blowing in a straw vs blowing in a water hose. Blowing air in the hose is easy compared to a straw.

It does act as a single wire, but with lower resistance (may not be exactly half) because of the larger capacity for electrical flow. It basically creates a fatter wire with lower resistance kinda like converting 2 strands of 34awg (21.28 ohm/ft) into a single strand of 32awg (13.81 ohm/ft). My guess is the altered geometry is what's making it work differently.

Striker beat me to it...

Combining these 2 answers makes sense. Combining the 2 wires by twisting them together increases the size of the wire changing the gauge. This results in a lower R but not by half but by a small amount as the characteristics of the new gauge wire the twisted wires result in. So the part CW mentions is true and the altered surface area is what makes this difference.

So ultimately, it does not make sense to me to spent the time to twist the wire perfectly instead of using a different gauge wire t get the lower R.

The straw vs hose analogy does not relate to electrical conductivity at all. Fluid mechanics and electrical conductivity - especially at lower voltages we are dealing with - work very different from each other. Electrons tend to flow through the surface of a wire unlike fluids. This brings back memories of the Gauss' law and Gaussian surface and all that stuff from years back :D
 

Cloud Wizard

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Combining these 2 answers makes sense. Combining the 2 wires by twisting them together increases the size of the wire changing the gauge. This results in a lower R but not by half but by a small amount as the characteristics of the new gauge wire the twisted wires result in. So the part CW mentions is true and the altered surface area is what makes this difference.

So ultimately, it does not make sense to me to spent the time to twist the wire perfectly instead of using a different gauge wire t get the lower R.

The straw vs hose analogy does not relate to electrical conductivity at all. Fluid mechanics and electrical conductivity - especially at lower voltages we are dealing with - work very different from each other. Electrons tend to flow through the surface of a wire unlike fluids. This brings back memories of the Gauss' law and Gaussian surface and all that stuff from years back :D

I think Strikers analogy does work when considering the current capacity (or ampacity) as proportional to the cross sectional surface area of a conductor.

I do wonder though (based on Dusty's question) whether or not the number of twists/distance have any appreciable effect on the surfaces's electromagnetic field. E.g. Is there an optimum twist ratio for creating more attraction to juice getting pulled into the coil (which would force more juice into the wick by capillary replacement).

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

evilfrog

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It's a solid video and everything is clearly presented. There are a couple of issues (at least for me when I watched it): Microphone got smothered a coupe times - not a big deal. Bad part is at 16 min in when the picture freezes for several seconds so the sound doesn't match up the rest of the way.

Overall you use the same method I did, but you torched for a LOT longer :) I torched before rolling, but not after. Jack Frost was the name you were looking for...
 

Cloud Wizard

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Cool video. The video freezes a bit at ~15:50 so is not sync'd with the audio track for the remainder (guessing a sniffle during rendering). Still, a lot of good work and great advice for folks learning to build wicks.

I've been using a 1/2 sheet (like Jim's e-vape vid), but I'm going to try that "thin" fat wick.
 
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