New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

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MiriamWTH

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That's the core answer right there. It's actually genius. Sealing the fill hole forces the airpath through the center of the wick. The fluid dynamics would be such that the more juice wicked, the more air enters, the more juice is FORCED to wick.

That would suggest that the optimal design is:

Wick as large as possible, touching the sides of the wick hole, with a hollow center.

Size of the hollow center is up for debate, unless Jim is willing to comment on what he thinks is best.

I knew there was a logical reason for my setup to never fail me ;-)
 

ricklynchcore

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Devon, i haven't encountered anyone rude in here... except one angry teen once. At the contrary, top crowd in here. ppl that really want to help out.
The product does work as intended, no doubt. I have never stated otherwise, please reread.
In my view, the selective "liking" from the owner to discourage genuine interest in improvement is a very bad business attitude.
As far as I'm concerned it's a immediate loss of interest in whatever is to come up. period.

Come on smooch, you have been a constructive member of this group, you are upset because Jim is liking what he likes? I like what I like, regardless of poster or content, I think Jim has the same rights as all. Quite frankly I rarely even watch who likes what, who cares? I post my opinions merely to help others struggling to improve their experience with the product, because when I first started, I needed help. The maker will ultimately make what he like, we shall either purchase his product or not. I own the DID, and mini DID, and enjoy them very much. Monogrammed caps etc have not interested me, so I don't purchase. I will likely buy the set-up plate because I think its cool, I will also add a clear tank for my mini DID, when I order next. When the mods turn to 18650 or 18350, I shall give them a look because I have an interest. This is all regardless of Jim or you, or anyone, liking or disliking my posts. Don't get wrapped up in others opinions of your thoughts, it will not help your enjoyment of the product.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
 
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MisterCombo21

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This will solve the problem Vapourninja I use a solid 500 wick. I form a spiral at the bottom. As you can see, the top of the wick is con caved.

I am interested in drilling a hole too on one of my extra fill screws... Looks pretty tough to do though since it so small. Care to share what size bit you used, etc?
Also, what did you mean by a spiral at the bottom of the wick? As in the folded over edge on the outside goes in a spiral? Mine sometimes do that a bit accidentally as I find it hard to roll consistently every time...
 

overall

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For the thick wick in the DID you need to really roll it tight. This will increase the wicking properties. I am using 500 mesh solid thick wick and I cannot get a dry hit to save my life. I have used 400 mesh in the past with great success also. Rolling a solid wick is not easy it takes a lot of rolling. I can only roll on a day because my fingers get sore. When I first started with the thick wicks I wasn't rolling tight enough and didn't get the wicking that it was supposed to give. Try sliding your wick out and rolling it some more. When I have finished rolling there is a slight gap around the wick in the tank. I think this helps relieve the pressure in the tank increasing the wicking. I no longer do juice burns on my solid wick as I find it unnecessary. I do drop some drops on the wick once it is installed in the DID to get the wicking kick started. I also wrap the coil on the wick before putting it in the DID and torch the coil on the wick until orange. This prevents it from loosening and makes it tinker free for a long time. Hope this helps.
I'd like some help from the experts.

I have a full sized DID, a knockoff miniDID, a ZAP, and an NGP.

Setups are:

ZAP: thin, hollow wick (400 mesh), 6 coils, 2.7ohm, running on a provari @ 4.8V for roughly 8W output
NGP: thin, hollow wick (400 mesh, 3 coils, 1.6ohm, hybrid, 3.7V for roughly 8W output
DID: 110mm solid wick (400 mesh), 2 coils, 1.6ohm, running on a Legacy @ 3.7V for roughly 8W output
fake-DID: "thick"... still thin, but the size of the fillhole, hollow wick, pinched at the top (400 mesh), 3-4 coil, 1.7 ohm, running on my USB passthrough or Ego-Twist @ 3.8V for roughly 8W output

I don't get quite the same flavor from my DID that I do from my ZAP, but ... whatever. I guess I don't really care about that.

Neither the DID nor the fakeDID leak if the fill-hole is covered. In fact, with the fake-DID on a passthrough with a wire coming out the bottom it's impossible to stand upright. It lays on its side, air-hole down, all the time.

Both the DID and fakeDID I can do roughly a 3 second inhale and have a good experience. Add a 4th second, or a second puff, and it's dry. Have to put it down and wait at least a minute before the wicking will catch up.

If I take the fillhole screws out... they vape like a champ. But then they also leak.

I see, over and over and over, all of you talking about no leak + good wicking. I can't make it happen.

Help?

The ZAP and NGP, of course, leak like champs.
 

ricklynchcore

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That's the core answer right there. It's actually genius. Sealing the fill hole forces the airpath through the center of the wick. The fluid dynamics would be such that the more juice wicked, the more air enters, the more juice is FORCED to wick.

That would suggest that the optimal design is:

Wick as large as possible, touching the sides of the wick hole, with a hollow center.

Size of the hollow center is up for debate, unless Jim is willing to comment on what he thinks is best.

I don't think this is a Jim question any longer. I would hazard a guess we have likely accumulated more knowledge than most mod makers. This has become a general Genesis style atty question. The knowledge of members like bj43, and emonti, through ceaseless experimentation, have given us a solid base to use for all Genesis style equipment. I now make solid 500 mesh fat wicks using 2 wooden surfaces to roll a very solid, minimal center hole wick. I use 28 kanthal 6 wrap exclusively, and can literally put myself into a nicotine coma if I so desire. This knowledge has been gained from several threads regarding wicks and coil. Jim has given us the means to experiment. I have evolved much over the course of 3 months. I still think Jim's design is solid and accommodating to this experimentation.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
 

Jimi D.

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I am interested in drilling a hole too on one of my extra fill screws... Looks pretty tough to do though since it so small. Care to share what size bit you used, etc?
Also, what did you mean by a spiral at the bottom of the wick? As in the folded over edge on the outside goes in a spiral? Mine sometimes do that a bit accidentally as I find it hard to roll consistently every time...
The bit size is .042 Put the screw in a vice. I used a cordless drill, and I set it at #4 to keep the bit from breaking. The trick is, go slowly. Also make sure that you remove the shavings as it cuts.

The spiral actually benefits the wicking. Mine looks like a cone.
 

evilfrog

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DID: 110mm solid wick (400 mesh), 2 coils, 1.6ohm, running on a Legacy @ 3.7V for roughly 8W output


Neither the DID nor the fakeDID leak if the fill-hole is covered. In fact, with the fake-DID on a passthrough with a wire coming out the bottom it's impossible to stand upright. It lays on its side, air-hole down, all the time.

Both the DID and fakeDID I can do roughly a 3 second inhale and have a good experience. Add a 4th second, or a second puff, and it's dry. Have to put it down and wait at least a minute before the wicking will catch up.

If I take the fillhole screws out... they vape like a champ. But then they also leak.

I see, over and over and over, all of you talking about no leak + good wicking. I can't make it happen.
It sounds like pressure differences are hindering the capillary flow. You could try a little less mesh or roll it slightly tighter? Other grades of mesh might also work better - 500 gets better capillary action, grades in the 200s might let the pressure equalize easier.
You could also stuff the fill hole with a little mesh - not the most elegant solution and it might still leak a bit, but maybe worth a try.
Another thing to try is 30 kanthal. I get better results with more wraps. Maybe heating a larger area dries out more of the wick which then improves capillary action? I'm unsure of the science of this.

I don't know - this kind of thing is trial and error for me. We all have our own vaping style, and it impacts wick performance. Keep tweaking it until it works :)
When I go over 12 or 13 watts on my 110mm 500 mesh wick, I just take out the fill screw - if I'm under that power level I can chain-vape with no problems.
 

VapourNinja

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It sounds like pressure differences are hindering the capillary flow. You could try a little less mesh or roll it slightly tighter? Other grades of mesh might also work better - 500 gets better capillary action, grades in the 200s might let the pressure equalize easier.
You could also stuff the fill hole with a little mesh - not the most elegant solution and it might still leak a bit, but maybe worth a try.
Another thing to try is 30 kanthal. I get better results with more wraps. Maybe heating a larger area dries out more of the wick which then improves capillary action? I'm unsure of the science of this.

I don't know - this kind of thing is trial and error for me. We all have our own vaping style, and it impacts wick performance. Keep tweaking it until it works :)
When I go over 12 or 13 watts on my 110mm 500 mesh wick, I just take out the fill screw - if I'm under that power level I can chain-vape with no problems.

Yea, I think you're spot on. When I've got a little more time after my next trip I'll remake a wick with a hole.

I agree with you on 'more wraps.' Vapor production is tied to surface area, but all I had was 32 kanthal. On that fat of a wick I could ONLY do 2 wraps or the resistance went too high. We'll see how big my next wick ends up being. I'll definitely pick up some thicker wire, or maybe just twist a couple strands of the 32. I'd like to get to 4-6 wraps, but need to keep the resistance down around 1.5-1.7.
 

Tonytiger1

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oye oye vapspaz did not insinuate anything wrong about the DID, G. forbid.
Yes sorry, if you felt pointed or hijacked...

Again, I do not own a DID and a half like a lot of ppl here. I will most likely buy 2 14500 mods from MMvapors the minute they go out.
I beleive Jim's work is outstanding and is not in question.
Playing the happy customer and booing anyone making suggestions won't help MMvapors much. a couples of ways you can help MMvapors is one, take ur cc out and buy some stuff. two: Give a honest feedback so that the manufacturer can adjust.
Go back a few hundred pages: I'm sure you'll find a few issues Jim can address in a future version. ppl are drilling holes in screws for pete's sake. Rick, you go to the toilets with yours but in ur vids, you do NOT close the fill hole (dude, careful with open holes when ur in there). reason mentioned: "Air flow", I get your point of view now. Buddy, your DID leaks just as mine and like hundreds of other customers. Apart from a few jedis here, nobody can close that hole.
What I would like... (my humble sugestions that may be thrown to the garbage by Jim anytime) but what I would love to acquire from MMV is a device that addresses the following:

1) Wicking/Leaking
In my view, a top tank would resolve these issues. The wicking would be gravitational. Your juice would remain clear all the time.
2) inside tanks. glass or plastic that could be pre-filled and replaceable on the fly.
3) wick insulation. bottom and hole.

There are stuff like that out there (they do NOT perform as the DID) BUT, if this stuff was to be made by a mind like Jim... that would be something. I wouldn't just own a peice and a half of that either. And there is definitely a market for a geni that could be more "user friendly"...

The DID is a masterpeice. This is what I do at home, nothing performs like it. When I go out, i can't risk a leak and I like comfort... sue me.

regards to all... and please no offence to anyone...

edit: +1000 for you Uma, you know I love your bag right?

In this case it's how it's said.I for one can tell you I tell what I prefer. I don't get bashed. I know it's my preference, All RBA have pros and cons. Your preference is not uncommon. We all like something different that suites us. Don't confuse that to be the best and only way. You have to give up something to get something with the current technology. It gets better every day.
IMO what more do you want for 90 bucks. It works great built like a tank. For me it actually over performed. I had to drop my nic level and use less coils. Great for me less Juice to buy. It is what it is. Constructive realistic suggestions are why we are here Jim very open to them. That why we have ss, mini, short, battery holder soon. Two different top caps.
all this has been said. Just putting my vote in.
I hate bottom buttons. But others love them.


x smoker because of the did. No other Atty could do it.
Tony
 
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evilfrog

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Yea, I think you're spot on. When I've got a little more time after my next trip I'll remake a wick with a hole.

I agree with you on 'more wraps.' Vapor production is tied to surface area, but all I had was 32 kanthal. On that fat of a wick I could ONLY do 2 wraps or the resistance went too high. We'll see how big my next wick ends up being. I'll definitely pick up some thicker wire, or maybe just twist a couple strands of the 32. I'd like to get to 4-6 wraps, but need to keep the resistance down around 1.5-1.7.

There are ways around that problem! :) Use a twisted coil to halve your ohms. Or lay a second coil between the wraps you already have.
I haven't tried either of these (I use VV mods), but a lot of people seem to get good results with them.
 

Uma

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Clarification of my earlier post.
I can fire it up for forever (constant firing) and it doesn't quit on me. Dry burning out the last of the tank, for instance, takes me forever if there's more left in the tank than I guessed. The coils never glow red, it just vaporizes until the cows come home. I don't pulsate, cuz I'm changing the juice out anyway. It's a nice constant firing.
I only pulsate when the juice is fresh, and I don't want to take the chance of boiling or burning my flavors if there's a small short or what have you. The shorts appear from out of the nirvana blue sometimes, so I like to head them off at the pass wherever I can. The 1-2 second vape is full and satisfying for me, but if I need more, I will pulsate if I'm going to refill with the same juice without rinsing it out first. (which is often lol).
(I didn't know if my earlier post suggested visuals that weren't meant to be visualized).
 

killbride

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so how low is too low for coil ohms? i wrapped a 1.2-1.3 ohm 2/3 that was vaping really well, but my new legacy began to heat up at the switch.
not sure if i have some kind of short? or the battery is bad... but i was away from home and the vapor basically just stopped altogether from the legacy. throw it on and ego and its fine,but it heats up the ego battery quickly too. any ideas why this is happening? all i can figure is the ohms are too low. and maybe i just got unlucky with the battery?
 

Devonmoonshire

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so how low is too low for coil ohms? i wrapped a 1.2-1.3 ohm 2/3 that was vaping really well, but my new legacy began to heat up at the switch.
not sure if i have some kind of short? or the battery is bad... but i was away from home and the vapor basically just stopped altogether from the legacy. throw it on and ego and its fine,but it heats up the ego battery quickly too. any ideas why this is happening? all i can figure is the ohms are too low. and maybe i just got unlucky with the battery?

1.2 or 1.3 ohms should be fine for a mechanical battery mod as I use as low as 0.7 on my GGTS. I would have to say something is touching somewhere causing a short. I do not own a legacy so I am not sure about them, but I don't think the low ohms are your issue. I even use a 1.3 ohm coil on my Provari Mini.

Nate aka Darth Vapor


As far as the Ego's Go you definitely do not want to use that low of ohms on those. That can be very very dangerous. I think the lowest I even think about going on ego batteries is 1.7 to 1.8 ohms.
 
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Devonmoonshire

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I figured something was up! I'm baffled as to why it is heating up. But good to know my coils isn't the issue. I've only had the legacy a week and this is my first problem with it

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

If I remember correctly the Legacy is a purely mechanical mod right? With some mechanical mods the throw switch can also cause a short. Heating up batteries is usually,(99.9% of the time), one of two things. A short, more than likely and can happen in a lot of places or too much amperage being drawn from the battery, this does happen but not as often.

Perhaps some of the DiD Experts can jump in here and I am sure pics of the coil would definitely help with the diagnosis.

Sincerely;
Nate aka Darth Vapor
 

yankeebobo

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so how low is too low for coil ohms? i wrapped a 1.2-1.3 ohm 2/3 that was vaping really well, but my new legacy began to heat up at the switch.
not sure if i have some kind of short? or the battery is bad... but i was away from home and the vapor basically just stopped altogether from the legacy. throw it on and ego and its fine,but it heats up the ego battery quickly too. any ideas why this is happening? all i can figure is the ohms are too low. and maybe i just got unlucky with the battery?

First thing I'd try, if you have an option, is putting that very DID on a different mod. Then putting another atty setup on the legacy. You definitely want to be sure which has the short.

Now, if its the DID, it can be several things. You may just nudge a coil up or down and find improvement. Here that can mean that there was one spot that wasn't oxidized and depending on wick size, could be a short. I didn't read really far back, as there is definitely something in the air on several threads today (must be the water), but are you experiencing hot spots?
 
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