New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

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Tonytiger1

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Hey guys. With my Mini DiD I can twist the tank around until it lines up with my mod's button. But with the regular DID it won't twist to suit. Is that normal or should I just try harder to twist it into place?

It has no threads so you should be able. Loosen the bottom nut first. Then untwisted the top a little Don't be like me and break it. :)


Tony
 

Uma

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It has no threads so you should be able. Loosen the bottom nut first. Then untwisted the top a little Don't be like me and break it. :)

Tony
Thanks Tony! I was hoping it was just me. I'll twist er into proper position later tonight when I get around to flipping my wick back over.... carefully, ... non-Tony style. :D

Noalox and a good brass bristled brush is a must IMHO for all PV's.
Oh that's right! Good tip and reminder. I need to clean my Reo ....
 

Tarkvemada

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I see the common mistake - not leaving any wick above the coil. The wick should be as tall as possible and have enough space above the coil to hold some additional juice. that way you shouldn't get any dry hits - the liquid from the top part of the wick will always keep the part under the coil wet. I even fold some mesh on the top of my coil to make the top part to hold more liquid.
 

vapspaz

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OMG!! It's been 3 loooooong weeks since I ordered my Mini and it was actually at my door step today! But those evil vicious postal people took it away and locked it up in cold dark scary place to spend the night all alone. My poor BABY!!!

OH THE HORROR!!!!!
babyface.jpg



Seriously though.... I really wish I knew a sig was going to be required when I ordered. :(

Hmmm... I don't feel to well. Maybe I should call in sick tomorrow. :D

Tomorrow night I shall be in a vape coma. :D :p
 

Devonmoonshire

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OMG!! It's been 3 loooooong weeks since I ordered my Mini and it was actually at my door step today! But those evil vicious postal people took it away and locked it up in cold dark scary place to spend the night all alone. My poor BABY!!!

OH THE HORROR!!!!!
babyface.jpg



Seriously though.... I really wish I knew a sig was going to be required when I ordered. :(

Hmmm... I don't feel to well. Maybe I should call in sick tomorrow. :D

Tomorrow night I shall be in a vape coma. :D :p

That Picture is GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah it is good to know about the signature. Glad my Wifey is home all day :D That way she can sign for it and it won't go to the dark scary lonely place known to us vapers as ..... "The Postal Holding Cell!!!"

Nate aka Darth Vapor
 

overall

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I finally tried the unoxidized wick in the DID. I just oxidized a corner which would be right under the coil. No juice burns either. It works great. I am rolling solid wicks and would like to put it on the record that rolling a solid unoxidized wick is really hard work. The unoxidized area is very elastic. Now I have hands that are all cramped up :'(
It will be interesting to see how long the wick lasts.
 

overall

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I broke some of my mini, awaiting eagerly fresh parts.


Anyone wanna share favorite mini did mesh dimensions for, say, a p+? Heating 29 a1? I realize its prolly 28 really.

Thanks!

9cm long, rolled in a solid wick. 4 or 5 wrap (5 with 29awg) 3.7 volts mechanical mod. No kick.

That would be my setup (actually is my setup)
 

killbride

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I finally tried the unoxidized wick in the DID. I just oxidized a corner which would be right under the coil. No juice burns either. It works great. I am rolling solid wicks and would like to put it on the record that rolling a solid unoxidized wick is really hard work. The unoxidized area is very elastic. Now I have hands that are all cramped up :'(
It will be interesting to see how long the wick lasts.

Totally un oxidized? Why? How does it not short/what's the theory behind it?

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 

WNCmotard

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I finally tried the unoxidized wick in the DID. I just oxidized a corner which would be right under the coil. No juice burns either. It works great. I am rolling solid wicks and would like to put it on the record that rolling a solid unoxidized wick is really hard work. The unoxidized area is very elastic. Now I have hands that are all cramped up :'(
It will be interesting to see how long the wick lasts.

I discovered a little trick for rolling fat wicks last night overall. Once you get the initial wrap done, find a good flat surface (cheap cutting board works nice for a wick / coil area BTW), lay it down and go in the direction of the wrap, and just lay your fingertips on it and roll it to the bottom of your palm. You can really put some pressure on the palm area. Works great, and much easier on the fingers.
 

overall

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The area under the coil was oxidized using Jack Frost method. The rest of the wick was completely unoxidized. I have been reading on another thread about the electricity taking the path of least resistance. We know the coil is grounded by the body of the DID therefore it doesn't matter if the wick anywhere other than under the coil is oxidized, the heat will travel along the wire and ground at the grounding nut....this would be the path of least resistance. I put my wick all the way to the bottom of the tank as well. The more I play with these genesis devices the less effort I put forth with the wick and the better the results. When I oxidized the area under the coil I used a cool flame as well. Granted I did flame a few seconds longer than when I torch but at no time did the mesh get past dark orange. I was actually expecting there to be shorts but I only had to do minor coil shifting (about the same as I have to do with the fully oxidized wick). It would appear that the only part that matters is what is under the coil. Also using the path of least resistance I am going to try a completely unoxidized wick with 28awg wire and 500 mesh..the mesh should be higher resistance than the kanthal because the wires are so thin on the mesh. I have a feeling it may be doable.
Totally un oxidized? Why? How does it not short/what's the theory behind it?

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 
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