That's about the stupidest thing I can try and do. Let me roll a wick real quick ill be right back.....
If you want unoxidized, try petark's method from VW not that throttle method
Burning through shorts is definitely a bad idea, but I think burning through hotspots isn't as extreme. A friend of mine (who actually just sold his AC9 and Spheroid to buy his first and second DIDs) told me that to eliminate hot spots, he fire the coil, let's the hot spot get nice and bright, and then he blows directly onto the hot spot, and supposedly after doing this a few times, you get an evenly glowing coil! This is another one of those tips that I can't speak for from personal experience, but it's something else worth exploring!
Damn, so you oxidize with just a bic?? So then I guess the flame must get hot enough to oxidize the mesh, which would be great for recoils/wick maintenance on the go, but my biggest concern would be roasting my fingers! Those little .......s get hot!
Yeah it works great for me, but I am a US Navy Sailor, my hands are practically fireproof LOL So even when I am using the torch I still hold the wick in my fingertips and never even feel itAfter those danged ladies at the mall get done with me when the Wife stops at those little Kiosks with the "Smooth Your Hands to silky Smoothness with our ex-foliating scrub" get done with em though I have to use something to hold the wick until I get my callouses grown back LOL
And Yes the Bic lighter does do a pretty good job on the wicks for me. I keep one in my Tablet carry bag with all my other coiling supplies and tools so that if I pop a coil away from the house I can get a new one done in minutes and while I have the wick out I can heat treat it to clean it up real good
Nate aka Darth Vapor
What I was describing is overheating the wick causing the liquid to boil off on the inside of the wick. The skinnier the wick, the less liquid available at that level, and the hotter the vapor. Because the airhole is not aligned with where the vapor is being produced, the expansion of the vapor is reduced. Also, with the expansion of the bubbles in the holes of the mesh as it vaporizes, it disrupts the adherent and coherent forces of the liquid inhibiting capillary action. So with my cobra and its skinny wick, I find it difficult to chain vape due to the heat applied by my coil traveling down the wick in a relatively short amount of time. This causes a break in the capillary action, and a reduction in vapor quality. I have to wait 30 seconds or more between hits for the wick to reload. To prevent this, I have to dial my voltage way down to 3.2-3.4 volts with a 1.7 ohm coil.Can't help thinking I'd like you to expand on this statement 2GLR, not because I don't believe it, but just because I want to get my head round the real life application of the concept.
BJ43 suggests that around 2mm is optimum size for wicks, and a few other genny makers are staying around the 2.5mm wick hole after experimenting with larger wicks and finding diminishing returns.
I for one have four DIDs and love the flexibility of the large wickhole and have most setup with 3.2mm semi solid wicks and one with a 2.3mm semi solid for decent performance at low watts 2.1ohms on the feeble lavatube v1.
Wicking is the no.1 challenge after you get your oxidization method and coiling technique down and I'm keen to expand my knowledge on the subject wherever a new resource crops up.
So spill it LOL
What I was describing is overheating the wick causing the liquid to boil off on the inside of the wick. The skinnier the wick, the less liquid available at that level, and the hotter the vapor. Because the airhole is not aligned with where the vapor is being produced, the expansion of the vapor is reduced. Also, with the expansion of the bubbles in the holes of the mesh as it vaporizes, it disrupts the adherent and coherent forces of the liquid inhibiting capillary action. So with my cobra and its skinny wick, I find it difficult to chain vape due to the heat applied by my coil traveling down the wick in a relatively short amount of time. This causes a break in the capillary action, and a reduction in vapor quality. I have to wait 30 seconds or more between hits for the wick to reload. To prevent this, I have to dial my voltage way down to 3.2-3.4 volts with a 1.7 ohm coil.
Damn, now I feel like a little girl!
That really is good to know though! Since I've been traveling so much lately, I've compiled a really solid travel-sized coil maintenance kit that I always have in my laptop bag, but I do pack a torch lighter in my suitcase if I'm checking luggage, which I won't be doing anymore! It's simple, it fits in a single little zipper pouch, and it's saved my ... on several occasions! My kit usually consists of:
2 tiny jewelers screw drivers (1 Phillips, 1 flat-head)
Needle nose tweezers
Blunt 3" 14g syringe needle that has the leur lock fitting removed
Nail clipper (for snipping kanthal)
DID Allen wrenchSmall vial of PG with 2-5 spare oxidized wicks (gotta restock that, it's empty now)
Bic lighter
Small spools of 30g kanthal and NR wire
Around 2-3' of silica Ody wick
1.5Ω long barrel HH.357 (backup for my backup for my BACKUP)
x2 5ml syringe/blunt 18g needle
10ml of juice per day I'm gna be gone, just in case
As for mods, if I'm only doing carry on, I make sure all of the tanks are bone dry (except for what I'll need for the flight) and then I disassemble every mod into as many individual parts as possible, which I then spread all throughout my laptop bag. When I can check my luggage, which is rare (went to the middle east for a week with just carry on), I'll fill up a pelican case with as many mods and attys I can squeeze into it! You can never have too many backups!!!!
My cobra is undoubtedly my most difficult genesis. I do have it running well right now. I have a semi solid 50mm wick in it. I use 500 mesh. I have 30 awg with a 4/5 wrap 1.5ohm at 4 volts. I ended up having to make the coil on the Allen wrench that came with it, then pulsed and fired the coil. Torched the mesh...rolled it tight around a small paperclip. Torched it again ....even did juice burn x 2 (haven't done this much wick prep since I first started with the genesis systems) then slid the wick (with no resistance) into the coil. The wick slides easily into the crazy threaded wick hole. I was getting ready to try to figure out how to drill out the wick hole which would be a challenge because it is so closet to the negative screw. I certainly wouldn't buy another one. I thought the mini DID was a challenge.......it's cake walk compared to the cobra.The flavor is nowhere near the flavor I get from my DIDs either.
and ill add you will need really good drills to do anything to titanium in a clean manner anyway
Oh damn, word up! I totally forgot the cobra was TI! Hmmmmm, that sounds like a project for a machine shop.

Here's hoping Miriam's hangover is long over. Haven't heard much from her lately, must have been a doozy! Gotta watch those partying DID's y'know.![]()
So.... UPS is the only option now for shipping? About $25?
Ouch! Any way to get the slow and cheap way?![]()