New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[c623cc]

That's really good information. I've found with my other rebuildable's that the low ohm stuff just tears through my batteries, even vaped at the same wattage. The amp draw is just so much higher on low resistance stuff. Ideally I'm looking for just under 3 ohms and vaping it around 4.6-4.9 volts. The setup you quoted here is just perfect for me so it will be the first setup I try once my DID's ship.

I just rebuilt my first Genesis style atomizer this morning on a Katana. Largely due to the advice in this thread it went off without a hitch on the first try. No shorts and no problems. The extra torching before rolling, the thorough torching after rolling and the cigarette paper trick all combined for a surprisingly easy build. Now I'm ready for the DID's.

I saw that Jim ran into some problems so I'm hopeful on them shipping this week as per his previous post but not counting on them shipping yet.

I think somewhere earlier in this thread he said he was back to running smoothly with the manufacturing and shipping.Hired another person I think was what he stated.Anyway congrats on the order and it is by far worth the wait.It's the only thing I use now and the wife has inherited all of my other stuff until I order her a DID(which she will be wanting soon I believe).

 

[ricklynchcore]

You are right in making sure to follow all the tricks and tactics found here. The reason my ohms are higher, I believe, is because of the fat wick. Too have the fat wick work right, it must be, as you so stated, be oxidized well. I use jack frost to pre oxidize before rolling, I then roll and oxidize and quench in water to stiffen a bit. Then I do two burns with juice, add rolling paper and coil. As long as I do these steps, taking my time for precision, I don't get serious shorts, the minor shorts usually are solved with needle coil spacing, and top movement of wick to positive connection. Once I get the sweet spot, it solidly works with very little adjustments. This procedure sounds time consuming and difficult to some, but for me, start to finish, is 10-15 minutes of fun, for 2 weeks of great vaping, no problem.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[Cloud Wizard]

You are right in making sure to follow all the tricks and tactics found here. The reason my ohms are higher, I believe, is because of the fat wick. Too have the fat wick work right, it must be, as you so stated, be oxidized well. I use jack frost to pre oxidize before rolling, I then roll and oxidize and quench in water to stiffen a bit. Then I do two burns with juice, add rolling paper and coil. As long as I do these steps, taking my time for precision, I don't get serious shorts, the minor shorts usually are solved with needle coil spacing, and top movement of wick to positive connection. Once I get the sweet spot, it solidly works with very little adjustments. This procedure sounds time consuming and difficult to some, but for me, start to finish, is 10-15 minutes of fun, for 2 weeks of great vaping, no problem.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

That would make sense because resistance in wire is measured by length and a fatter wick would need a longer coil. Another approach I've been using (I've had fewer shorts/hot spots with fewer wraps) is to use Kanthal 34A-1 instead of 32. I'm getting 3.0/3.1ohm on a thinner wick.

 

[grabeard]

That's what I get with 33 awg and a fatter wick.

That would make sense because resistance in wire is measured by length and a fatter wick would need a longer coil. Another approach I've been using (I've had fewer shorts/hot spots with fewer wraps) is to use Kanthal 34A-1 instead of 32. I'm getting 3.0/3.1ohm on a thinner wick.

 

[ricklynchcore]

That would make sense because resistance in wire is measured by length and a fatter wick would need a longer coil. Another approach I've been using (I've had fewer shorts/hot spots with fewer wraps) is to use Kanthal 34A-1 instead of 32. I'm getting 3.0/3.1ohm on a thinner wick.

Your Right, it does make sense. I guess the bottom line for me was I used a skinny wick at first, thinking I'd get less shorts, and easier to remove for cleaning, however my ohms were to low, and my wicking was not as efficient, and as for shorts, its all based on how well I oxidize, not thickness of wick. So the fatter wick works for me, especially with a second smaller wick inside as someone else suggested. All I know is no dry hits, and solid vapor and TH.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[Cloud Wizard]

Your Right, it does make sense. I guess the bottom line for me was I used a skinny wick at first, thinking I'd get less shorts, and easier to remove for cleaning, however my ohms were to low, and my wicking was not as efficient, and as for shorts, its all based on how well I oxidize, not thickness of wick. So the fatter wick works for me, especially with a second smaller wick inside as someone else suggested. All I know is no dry hits, and solid vapor and TH.

Cool. I'll try your style wick once I get my second DID. I like trying all the different suggestions, but I've gotten to a point where my one and only DID is really dialed in and don't want to mess it up.

 

[Ezkill]

I have 32, 34 and 36 for my other rebuildable's and I sort of tailor which one I use based on how much wire I'm going to use in order to attain my coil that's around 3ohms. For instance in the Penelope I use almost right on 1.75 inches of 34 awg to get a 2.8ohm coil that gains about .2-.3 ohms of resistance as it breaks in. I metered all my wire to 2.8 ohms and created some templates on the back of a clear wick baggie. When I need a new coil I grab my wire, hold it up to the baggie and snip the amount I want. Just prevents me from having to meter or measure it every time.

It's good to know that with the fat wick enough 34 AWG will fit on there to give me a 3.0ohm coil. I can skip right past the 32

Edit: Yes I saw Jim said he was back on track but my order from a week ago hasn't moved in status so I figured he was behind(Ordered on the 9th of July). If it was going to ship this Monday as he stated I probably would have gotten a status update. I assume he's just not cleared backlog. No biggie...I can wait. I have a genesis to play with for now. Don't get me wrong I want it now thats why I paid for the faster shipping but I totally understand that Jim's had some setbacks.

 

[rwechsler]

I had the same idea a few months about, but it's not going to work b/c oxidized titanium is still conductive.

There is 2 different 316's though, one is a 316 and the other is a 316L, 316 has .08 Max carbon content while 316L has a .03 Max carbon content. 316L has enhanced resistance to corrosion also.

If we could get a Titanium mesh, along with a Titanium wire this just might be purely awesome. They are now making a Titanium wire which there going to start using in Atty's and Carto's this could be very good, Tungsten wire is also very good and will work better then the current wire were all using.

 

[rwechsler]

I've been talking to Jim and manufacturing and shipping are supposedly going really smoothly! In addition to almost being fully up to date with all current pending orders, he's going to have some new items up for sale on the site by the end of this week!

As for coil/wick setups, I'm using 3/2 wraps of 30g kanthal a-1 (0.85Ω) with a very thin-walled 325 wick and am producing some pretty huge clouds with awesome flavor and th.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

rwechsler what kind of juice do you use? (PG/VG) ?

 

[rwechsler]

In my DID review, I'm vaping Pink Spot Vapor's Blue Spot, which is 70/30 PG/VG I believe. Lately, I've been vaping more pure VG juices though, including Bobas, Gorilla Juice, and COV Butterscotch.

 

[Jason-Tank]

The DID Rocks!!. no modding needed. best money i ever spend. probably been said to death but, oh wells

 

[rwechsler]

The DID Rocks!!. no modding needed. best money i ever spend. probably been said to death but, oh wells

Still worth repeating! I'm sure Jim appreciates any positive feedback!

 

[Zurd]

DID is quite amazing, flavor is really something, however the vapor isn't very warm, I like a hot vape, anyway I can get it warmer? I'm at 2 ohms between 3.2 and 3.6 volts.

 

[c623cc]

Up the voltage(or wattage depending on device) or take longer controlled vapes Zurd.I was after a "warmer" vape myself and made a 2/3 wrap at 1.5-1.6 ohms and run it anywhere from 4.0v-4.4 and it helped a little for me.

 

[elfstone]

Slower draws actually result in a warmer vape. Also, the obvious - reduce the resistance (by wrapping fewer coils) and/or increase the voltage. However, if what you use is a Lavatube, you might not want to go much lower, perhaps just as low as ~1.7 to be able to play with the voltage more...

 

[rwechsler]

Start by reducing the number of wraps from your coil. If you like a hot vape, start with 3/2 wraps of 32g kanthal, and if that isn't hot enough, buy some 30g Kanthal A-1 and try 4/3 wraps.

DID is quite amazing, flavor is really something, however the vapor isn't very warm, I like a hot vape, anyway I can get it warmer? I'm at 2 ohms between 3.2 and 3.6 volts.

 

[Jason-Tank]

DID is quite amazing, flavor is really something, however the vapor isn't very warm, I like a hot vape, anyway I can get it warmer? I'm at 2 ohms between 3.2 and 3.6 volts.

i find it hotter then a zenesis, thats just me tho. i have 3/4 wrap 32awg kanthal at 3.9 volts on a provari mini, and its pretty warm, the wicking is amazing, never have i had to tip the thing yet. which blows me away

 

[rwechsler]

That's the 3.5mm wick hole at play! Give it a month or 2 before every genesis maker starts doing that ahahahahh

i find it hotter then a zenesis, thats just me tho. i have 3/4 wrap 32awg kanthal at 3.9 volts on a provari mini, and its pretty warm, the wicking is amazing, never have i had to tip the thing yet. which blows me away

 

[yankeebobo]

Anxious for arrival. Just ordered two of these. Anticipating some wait.