New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

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wasabi5858

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For those with DID shorty, does it make much of a visual/other impact?

I am going to order more DID, but am undecided between shorty and regular. The overall length difference according to the site is only 4mm, doesn't seem like a big difference while amounting to almost 1/2 of the juice capacity.
 

Cloud Wizard

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Like I said before, my goal is to have a bit of an index of certain posts, questions/answers, concerns and the like. It may take me awhile but until then I will be compiling. I wish I could make my own sticky. LOL

I love the idea. Lots of great info spread across a lot of pages. If you can't make a sticky, have you considered compiling your index on a blog page?
 

Mr.Mann

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I love the idea. Lots of great info spread across a lot of pages. If you can't make a sticky, have you considered compiling your index on a blog page?

Yep, or something like it. I would really like it if it was open to make amendments by the more knowledgeable. So, I will look into it.

p.s. So the Smoketek pyrex tanks are confirmed fits?

Also does anyone know where i can find glass drip tips like the ones on the Clean Tanks at Avidvaper, but would fit 510 connection for The DID?

Or is this the closest (without the psyhedelic swirls) at theecig.com?

I also found this, but while it is clear and attractive, I still wanted more of a ming or pawn style.
 
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elfstone

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That's basically what I remembered too. Whew!

I think the Elfstone used an unfortunate descriptive word. I'm sure the "juice tank" visual wasn't meant to appear in our imaginations. I believe the proper visual was "atty body that looks like a tank that sits on top of the juice tank". hmmm, well, okay, I need a writer to edit me too. lol. But, that's what is meant, is the ATTY BODY, not the juice tank. :)


What unfortunate word? I did not say anything about the juice tank. It is the center pin that gets oxidized by contact with juice. In the meantime, probably due to further exposure to air, it got darker, but one can see still the dark green and rusty red tinges. And affected areas are the threads in the atomization chamber and the length of the pin, that which sits inside the center post.

img0086ey.jpg


img0079ru.jpg


I am sorry, but I don't have a macro lens - this will have to do.

I think it proves the concept that the brass will oxidize (doh!) and that it comes in contact with the juice. All previous speculations are moot.

The juice in the tank DOES NOT CHANGE COLOR for me. But it gets darker, like in ANY Genesis atomizer. This leads me to believe that contact with the juice occurs due to juice seeping from the atomization chamber down into the center post, and not directly from the tank. The center post is fairly well sealed with the threads at both ends and the tiny o-rings.

Doesn't matter, really. It sucks to have brass oxidizing all over the place in a this application. It has to be changed with stainless steel, there's very little anyone can come up with against this. What can be the gain, in Ohms, for making a small part of the circuit brass rather than steel?...
 
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elfstone

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Hmm, you were definitely right about oxidation. If it's coming from the atomization chamber, it may simply be wicking down the center post threads from condensate. Can you tell if it's actually in the open (hard to tell from photo) or only in the unexposed areas?

As I said, that is my theory. I don't really have a way to be sure other than I left juice in the tank for two days without vaping (in fact there is no coil or wick at all), and when I opened it up there is no moisture inside the center post.
 

Darryll

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For those with DID shorty, does it make much of a visual/other impact?

I am going to order more DID, but am undecided between shorty and regular. The overall length difference according to the site is only 4mm, doesn't seem like a big difference while amounting to almost 1/2 of the juice capacity.

I don't find the difference huge. I do however think that both are fantastic.

90O6b.jpg
 

johnlacie

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As I said, that is my theory. I don't really have a way to be sure other than I left juice in the tank for two days without vaping (in fact there is no coil or wick at all), and when I opened it up there is no moisture inside the center post.

One other thing that may cause the oxidation on the brass post is Galvanic Corrosion. This occurs with dissimilar metals which in this case are stainless steel and brass.

Another could be Selective Leeching that occurs with brass alloys.

Hopefully someone with expertise on brass and other metals can chime in and offer their explanation on what's really happening.
 

Uma

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What unfortunate word? I did not say anything about the juice tank. It is the center pin that gets oxidized by contact with juice.
mmm, the unfortunate (yet invisible) word that some of us, (okay, ME) read and visualized. My apologies. A huge case of jumping the brain before the brain. But I coulda swore I saw the word "tank". I need a nap.
 

VAPNJ350

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One other thing that may cause the oxidation on the brass post is Galvanic Corrosion. This occurs with dissimilar metals which in this case are stainless steel and brass.

Another could be Selective Leeching that occurs with brass alloys.

Hopefully someone with expertise on brass and other metals can chime in and offer their explanation on what's really happening.


I wonder if 1 of the xtra tiny O-rings placed under the "1st" brass nut at the bottom of the post would maybe hinder any juice seapage from the atty chamber working it's way down. Im not too worried about it....as long as the brass is sealed from the tank chamber and fresh juice ,which it is from my tests, Im not concerned, but people who might be might try this.
 

Uma

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I wonder if 1 of the xtra tiny O-rings placed under the "1st" brass nut at the bottom of the post would maybe hinder any juice seapage from the atty chamber working it's way down. Im not too worried about it....as long as the brass is sealed from the tank chamber and fresh juice ,which it is from my tests, Im not concerned, but people who might be might try this.
Oh, good idea!! I bet that would work quite well, even from earth's humidity that enters every pore in the universe.
I'm not worried about it either, for the reason you stated, that it's not in the juice tank itself, but it can be annoying to *have* to clean the pin even when we haven't been using it for a little while.

Traipsing back in time, a good discussion took place concerning the brass. TheRem linked us to highping's brass thread (where is highping anyway??? and Scottbee??? so many wonderful souls have left us over the years).

highping's thread Discussion about brass and juice: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/97828-brass-juice.html

They covered everything, including Titanium! I am impressed.

I came to the same conclusions as dspin and the others here, that as long as it's not immersed in the juice, it's okay. Heck, even our carto ends turn green. The inside of my eGo threads turn green. Green is a normal occurance that requires routine maintanence. (dang spell checker won't correct my words, but it sure enjoys informing me that no matter how I rearrange or replace letters, it's not going to be right). As long as I'm not literally vaping it, I will be fine. But it is worth "fixing" due to annoyance and eventual wear and tear.
 

wasabi5858

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I need to go back and read a lot of posts... my coil just doesn't seem stable... A lot of gunk buildup on the top turn requiring frequent attention. I would be happy vaping, then get E1 error on the Provari, then I check ohm and it drops from 3 to 1 ish...then either I push the coils around a bit or I lower it, then ofcourse I would then find very little vapor in a little while and then boom, back to 3 ohm running on 3 volts...
 

outadadark

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I need to go back and read a lot of posts... my coil just doesn't seem stable... A lot of gunk buildup on the top turn requiring frequent attention. I would be happy vaping, then get E1 error on the Provari, then I check ohm and it drops from 3 to 1 ish...then either I push the coils around a bit or I lower it, then ofcourse I would then find very little vapor in a little while and then boom, back to 3 ohm running on 3 volts...

Hmm.... I find a 'gunk' build up accumulates around the top coils whenever I vape a more 'sugary' juice, resistance jumps all over the place, my battery takes a hammering and my Provari begins to sulk.

I generally just use a stiff dental brush (the kind used for dentures..... :), gently brush the top coils in a clockwise direction (from right to left.....otherwise my top nut begins to unscrew) and drop my output voltage by a couple of points to lessen the build up over time. Be aware, the gunk WILL be back. Just try and brush the gunk away whilst the wick is relatively warm. It becomes a pig to get rid rid of if you happen to leave it to harden overnight.

PS Hey Uma, its great to see how your confidence is the 'Art of the DID' has grown over the life of these pages. It takes a while, but our unsteady DID legs eventually turn from a waddle into a walk :). Luv it !!
 

ChuckBell

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I need to go back and read a lot of posts... my coil just doesn't seem stable... A lot of gunk buildup on the top turn requiring frequent attention. I would be happy vaping, then get E1 error on the Provari, then I check ohm and it drops from 3 to 1 ish...then either I push the coils around a bit or I lower it, then ofcourse I would then find very little vapor in a little while and then boom, back to 3 ohm running on 3 volts...

I think during the course of vaping the coil wrap around the post may become unraveled having the nuts flat side above and below the wrap which may be your problem

try having one brass nut flat side up(mine is at the bottom of my coil wrap around the post) and one nut concave pointing down(mine is on top of my coil wrap around the post)

also make sure your wrap going to the silver ground nut is on the outer part of your wick and not the inner because it might be making contact with your bottom brass nut on the post
 
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