For some of you tinkerers: I've been running my DID lately with FIVE nuts on the center pole. I found that once the insulator in the base "broke in" to sit flush on my ProV, there was room to get all five nuts on the center pole with complete thread engagement. I've read some people give a fuss about their coils shorting to the center nuts, but I figure if there's room for a nut at the bottom, and the top, that coil should have clearance all the way up.
This gives three vertical spots on the center "column" to get a solid connection on the coil; think of the top nut as either one, two or three brass nuts "locked" together. A good pair of needle nose come in handy.
I'll then make sure my wick is as tall as possible without touching the installed cap so shorter coils will have as much juice on standby as possible.
You can try anything from small, tightly wound, low resistance coils low on the wick to air-hole height, or medium to larger coils with resistance to match. By playing with how many wraps you can cram into a given height (2, 3, or 4 nuts up the column), you can easily recoil, tinkering for hours and never having an erratic connection or systemic hotspots. Not messing with two teeny free-spinning nuts on a threaded rod takes a lot of the hair-pulling out of the DID. Throw in wire gauge, mesh, size/shape of the wick, juice variety, and airhole size; and its like tinkering on Christmas!
The column of brass in the center also does some interesting things for airflow. Now, I know just enough about fluid dynamics to know I dont know squat, but Zen made a pretty big fuss over it in an interview with PBusardo, and I think having a small top nut clearance and a uniform vapor chamber make a difference (though, in the grand scheme of things, it's MUCH less important than a wick/coil with no conductivity issues).
Jim, kudos man. My next order from you is going to be BIG. Anyone reading this who is on the fence about getting the DID, hop off; this is the real deal.
