New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[PlacentaParty]

Here is the latest response from sagewood glass.

We are actually in the middle of some large projects right now, so we'll have to wait a bit on your offer to send us your DID for R&D.. We really appreciate the offer and we'll definitely do our best to create tanks for DIDs (and other genesis attys) ASAP.

 

[WNCmotard]

Very cool, and a hip, hip hooray for sagewood.

 

[robociggs]

been vaping my brains out all day on this thing. doing the "smoke torch" to every body at work. what's a good site to order wire and screen from in the states? waiting more than a week for shipping suuucks. gonna have to order some spare parts anyway tho. i might still buy a few regular attys for dripping my automatic cigarette batts, but i'm pretty much done with whack .... clearomizers and anything with wadding or fiberglass wick. the flavor is a little different, and i am getting "sort of an airy draw," just like bonner says, but man does it work good. nice th and big crazy fog machine clouds. like serious crazy dragon dragon smoke. i can blow like 550 rings w/ every puff. those did guys should make a 18650 mod too, that matches really nice w/ the same polished stainless and an analog vv knob.


i got did # 0112, what u got? who has numero uno?

 

[PlacentaParty]

My guess is that Jim has did #1. He should at least. The man is very proud of his creation as he should be. Great craftsmanship.

 

[DSmooch]

there seems to be a clear tank on the way at avidvaper registered under "DID Accessoreis" !?

 

[Scottibones]

Okay, who's getting one of these? I love having the option of glass tube but I just need to see it on a Provari first.

Buy an original DID this thread isn't for the Chinese copies!

 

[Pete54]

there seems to be a clear tank on the way at avidvaper registered under "DID Accessoreis" !?

Pretty sure this will be the same Kir Fanis clear tank that Jim sells.

 

[studiovap]

So received my Mini DID yesterday, and after reading Tony's thread on oxidizing, was really excited to set it up and get my new baby rocking. Well I don't have a gas stove only a plumber's blow torch and a soldering/chef's torch, but I have had pretty good success with the wicks in my DID standard so was hopeful.
Well Tony, I seem to have the "curse of the shorting wick" syndrome, just couldn't get that nice brown color you showed in the pics, and every oxidation I DID was pants!
I started off using 5/6 32awg kanthal and whatever method, I used I got burnt taste, hot spots, shorts etc.
I thought I had this down , I was so looking forward to using my mini on my ego batteries, and ended up frying two of them through shorts and low res ,
I can report however, that after 5hrs recoiling, fiddling,prodding,burning fingers reoxidising, removing wraps and drinking coke that I have an awesome 3/4 coil and wick running at an indicated 6watts on the ZMAX.
I do have to have the fill screw out, (can't remember if this is most people's preference with the mini DID).
I am happy, but I am also sad, I no longer trust my oxidizing process and feel all at sea with it again.
If anyone has tried Tony's method with a blow torch, or if you have Tony, please please post some process stage pics or a video, so we can all sleep at night, rather than curse our sh**ting wicks as we prod and fiddle into the early hours.
Ps, Love the MINI DID Jim, just beautiful work. It's not you, it's me

 

[overall]

I use a plumbers blow torch. I cut a strip about 4" long - the depth I guard by using the DID beside me. With the mesh unrolled I torch it - go over it quickly, just a couple is seconds per section. I do this front and back. Then roll it tight - with no center hole. You can at this point retorch it and quench if you want a stiffer wick (never sounds right ). At this point I am using either 30ga or 28ga wire. Torch the wire for a split second. I wrap the wire around the wick I make about 7 wraps. Then torch the wick with the coils until it goes red. Then juice it up - burn off the juice .....I do this 3 times. Now install it in the DID. tighten the bottom wire, then I remove wrap #7 and wrap the positive. Test the dry burn. ( I typically have next to no fiddling needed) fill the tank ..drop some juice on the wick and vape away.

Using this method the wick is easy to remove and the coil is tough, so both should last a long time.

So received my Mini DID yesterday, and after reading Tony's thread on oxidizing, was really excited to set it up and get my new baby rocking. Well I don't have a gas stove only a plumber's blow torch and a soldering/chef's torch, but I have had pretty good success with the wicks in my DID standard so was hopeful.
Well Tony, I seem to have the "curse of the shorting wick" syndrome, just couldn't get that nice brown color you showed in the pics, and every oxidation I DID was pants!
I started off using 5/6 32awg kanthal and whatever method, I used I got burnt taste, hot spots, shorts etc.
I thought I had this down , I was so looking forward to using my mini on my ego batteries, and ended up frying two of them through shorts and low res ,
I can report however, that after 5hrs recoiling, fiddling,prodding,burning fingers reoxidising, removing wraps and drinking coke that I have an awesome 3/4 coil and wick running at an indicated 6watts on the ZMAX.
I do have to have the fill screw out, (can't remember if this is most people's preference with the mini DID).
I am happy, but I am also sad, I no longer trust my oxidizing process and feel all at sea with it again.
If anyone has tried Tony's method with a blow torch, or if you have Tony, please please post some process stage pics or a video, so we can all sleep at night, rather than curse our sh**ting wicks as we prod and fiddle into the early hours.
Ps, Love the MINI DID Jim, just beautiful work. It's not you, it's me

 

[ricklynchcore]

So received my Mini DID yesterday, and after reading Tony's thread on oxidizing, was really excited to set it up and get my new baby rocking. Well I don't have a gas stove only a plumber's blow torch and a soldering/chef's torch, but I have had pretty good success with the wicks in my DID standard so was hopeful.
Well Tony, I seem to have the "curse of the shorting wick" syndrome, just couldn't get that nice brown color you showed in the pics, and every oxidation I DID was pants!
I started off using 5/6 32awg kanthal and whatever method, I used I got burnt taste, hot spots, shorts etc.
I thought I had this down , I was so looking forward to using my mini on my ego batteries, and ended up frying two of them through shorts and low res ,
I can report however, that after 5hrs recoiling, fiddling,prodding,burning fingers reoxidising, removing wraps and drinking coke that I have an awesome 3/4 coil and wick running at an indicated 6watts on the ZMAX.
I do have to have the fill screw out, (can't remember if this is most people's preference with the mini DID).
I am happy, but I am also sad, I no longer trust my oxidizing process and feel all at sea with it again.
If anyone has tried Tony's method with a blow torch, or if you have Tony, please please post some process stage pics or a video, so we can all sleep at night, rather than curse our sh**ting wicks as we prod and fiddle into the early hours.
Ps, Love the MINI DID Jim, just beautiful work. It's not you, it's me

Maybe its me, but I have never quite understood all the problems with oxidizing. I rarely have shorts. I jack frost my wick rather quickly, I just run the torch over each side with a slow hand, but certainly not for a prolonged period. I like the wick to have a grey shade, not brown, and not black. It will blacken an its own over time. Roll wick, then juice burn twice. I think many are blaming their shorting problems on oxidizing rather than proper coiling. Key points for me on coiling. Top coil shots= distance of wick to nut, (needs to be close, but not touching. ) Tighten nuts firmly at top connection, snugging the nut with a needle nose pliers( this one step has eliminated many of my top nut shorts, I often redo this tightening at juice fill ups.) Make sure bottom coil lays on the ground until it begins its wick climb. Make sure coil is snug against the wick, to lose, shorts and hot spots, to tight, shorts and hot spots. Twist wick within coil to help alleviate shorts. 30 kanthal seems less inclined to short than higher resistance wire, for me at least. Hope this helps.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[yankeebobo]

I use a plumbers blow torch. I cut a strip about 4" long - the depth I guard by using the DID beside me. With the mesh unrolled I torch it - go over it quickly, just a couple is seconds per section. I do this front and back. Then roll it tight - with no center hole. You can at this point retorch it and quench if you want a stiffer wick (never sounds right ). At this point I am using either 30ga or 28ga wire. Torch the wire for a split second. I wrap the wire around the wick I make about 7 wraps. Then torch the wick with the coils until it goes red. Then juice it up - burn off the juice .....I do this 3 times. Now install it in the DID. tighten the bottom wire, then I remove wrap #7 and wrap the positive. Test the dry burn. ( I typically have next to no fiddling needed) fill the tank ..drop some juice on the wick and vape away.

Using this method the wick is easy to remove and the coil is tough, so both should last a long time.

This should be my next method of trial.

30 kanthal seems less inclined to short than higher resistance wire, for me at least. Hope this helps.

This reason is why I tend to reach for my 30 on the DID.

 

[Uma]

Pretty sure this will be the same Kir Fanis clear tank that Jim sells.

When last at his (Jim's) store, it read as "discontinued but available elsewhere." Yay if AV is the "elsewhere"!

 

[yankeebobo]

Avidvapor IS the elsewhere. They have the US agreement with kir for many products. The awesome news here is you can have window faster if its only window you need. When in stock anyway.

 

[Pete54]

When last at his (Jim's) store, it read as "discontinued but available elsewhere." Yay if AV is the "elsewhere"!

I DID not know that. (said in my best Johnny Carson voice!).

 

[studiovap]

I use a plumbers blow torch. I cut a strip about 4" long - the depth I guard by using the DID beside me. With the mesh unrolled I torch it - go over it quickly, just a couple is seconds per section. I do this front and back. Then roll it tight - with no center hole. You can at this point retorch it and quench if you want a stiffer wick (never sounds right ). At this point I am using either 30ga or 28ga wire. Torch the wire for a split second. I wrap the wire around the wick I make about 7 wraps. Then torch the wick with the coils until it goes red. Then juice it up - burn off the juice .....I do this 3 times. Now install it in the DID. tighten the bottom wire, then I remove wrap #7 and wrap the positive. Test the dry burn. ( I typically have next to no fiddling needed) fill the tank ..drop some juice on the wick and vape away.

Using this method the wick is easy to remove and the coil is tough, so both should last a long time.

Thanks for your reply overall.
Two questions: 1. how far away fro the mesh is the torch (point of flame, light blue/darker blue, distance from, or whatever)?
2.What color (dark,red,red,bright red, orange,bright orange etc.) do you heat the mesh to.
I'm sorry to be a PITA but what seem like natural common sense to you could be the bit that's causing my downfall
I've tried using a multimeter to check res/continuity of the mesh but get varying readings and no real idea of whether I've killed the conductivity or not.

 

[Striker911]

Okay, who's getting one of these? I love having the option of glass tube but I just need to see it on a Provari first.

I bought one and its a POS. The ground screw is to far from the wick. If you are new to the gen types then you dont need that junk ruining the experience. The real DID is much better and more easy to set up then any other gen on the market.

 

[studiovap]

Maybe its me, but I have never quite understood all the problems with oxidizing. I rarely have shorts. I jack frost my wick rather quickly, I just run the torch over each side with a slow hand, but certainly not for a prolonged period. I like the wick to have a grey shade, not brown, and not black. It will blacken an its own over time. Roll wick, then juice burn twice. I think many are blaming their shorting problems on oxidizing rather than proper coiling. Key points for me on coiling. Top coil shots= distance of wick to nut, (needs to be close, but not touching. ) Tighten nuts firmly at top connection, snugging the nut with a needle nose pliers( this one step has eliminated many of my top nut shorts, I often redo this tightening at juice fill ups.) Make sure bottom coil lays on the ground until it begins its wick climb. Make sure coil is snug against the wick, to lose, shorts and hot spots, to tight, shorts and hot spots. Twist wick within coil to help alleviate shorts. 30 kanthal seems less inclined to short than higher resistance wire, for me at least. Hope this helps.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

Thanks ricklynchcore, I must say I do most of the above but not "Tighten nuts firmly at top connection, snugging the nut with a needle nose pliers( this one step has eliminated many of my top nut shorts, I often redo this tightening at juice fill ups.)", I will try Overalls oxidization method combined with your advice on my next set-up.
Thanks again to all who contribute hope and advice in this thread

 

[denali_41]

Okay, who's getting one of these? I love having the option of glass tube but I just need to see it on a Provari first.

why does everybody keep referring to this pic as a that chinese clone ???

 

[evildee]

Guys,

I guess I wasn't clear on my post. Most likely because I had a long week at work. Anyway, I do own an original DID and I was referring to the glass tube in the picture. The pic is from the Web site selling the glass tube. I just wanted to see it on a Provari before I do a purchase.

Clear Tanks : Glass DiD Tube

 

[studiovap]

Okay, who's getting one of these? I love having the option of glass tube but I just need to see it on a Provari first.

WOW You've picked the wrong place to show that and ask that. this is Jim's thread for the high quality DID and it's owners. That picture,that question? oh dear