New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[chieftechnicalwizard]

What I love about the DID. I wrapped a coil around my wick last Tuesday. Vaped three tanks. Got fiddly and tried a new type of coil same wick. Vaped another tank then refilled with a natural extraction juice that totally gunked up my wick and coil Saturday. Dry burned vaped a new clean tank. Then tonight I could not take it any more unwound the coil, just unDID the top nut then scraped it clean with my fingernails, reburned my wick once and reseasoned with clean juice. Rewrapped the same wick with the same coil filled with fresh juice and I'm back in the sweet spot so cool! It took less than 5 minutes at this point to clean and recoil. <3 DID

Jim savour your time with the new born and family. The site will sustain

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[Pete54]

Chief, what drip tip is that on your DID. It looks like it fits perfectly.

 

[chieftechnicalwizard]

The one that ships with it

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I do not know if I and others were instrumental on center post and nuts revision into stainless steel. I commented on their website and questioned the rational on using brass materials. Although stainless steel is the poorest conductor compared to silver, copper (brass is a copper alloy), gold and aluminum, the differences on resistance for all practical purposes, are quite negligible on the size of the DID's center pin and the nuts. Being that the stainless steel is the sturdiest, it stands to reason that it's the best choice aside from less susceptible to oxidation (E-liquid). So, to switch back from stainless steel to brass is actually going backward. My DID is all stainless steel like yours. The nuts are knurled and the internal connecting tube is meticulously machined. Now, if I could only make it to work properly, like the rest of the happy owners, I'll be a very happy man. I'm beginning to question the wire it came with. Is it Kanthal or not? Kanthal's skin surface oxidizes after several annealing and burn-in runs due to aluminunm alloy material in it (I researched it last night). The oxidation acts as an electrical insulation between the wire mesh and the heating coil.

There are some sure fire ways to get up and running (sans fine "expert" fine tuning).

Wick

1. Cut wick material (I like the 400 Jim provides but am now experimenting with 500) to 40mm x 50mm (1/2 a sheet provided with DID)
2. Torch both side of mesh flat (aka "Jack Frost" method - doesn't require a ton of burn, just glow bright orange and move on to cover the mesh both sides)
3. Fold leading edge ~1mm (on the side you roll to be the outside - gets rid of pointy edges that may cause shorts/hot spots later)
4. Roll wick on the allen wrench that comes with the DID or any tool that is just a little smaller than the wick hole (I use and 8D finishing nail and just keep checking the width till it fits the wick hole with just enough friction that it slide in easily but holds if let go)
5. Once shaped, the tool can be removed and the wick can be tightened more by rolling to right fit
6. Cut a 45 degree cut at the bottom and insert wick till it touches bottom (the angle cut let bubbles come out the bottom easier which seems to provide better wicking later)
7. Cut the wick ~1mm below top of center post (that way when you install later and line it up with the top you know it's not touching the bottom of the tank)
8. 3X Torch the wick and quench (I use my pick stuck just barely in the end to keep me from getting burnt and torch the wick end to end while rolling it till it glows orange then stick in trickle of water running in the faucet)
9. 3X Juice burn (dowse the wick in juice - PG/VG is irrelevant - light on fire with lighter and let burn till fire starts going out and then blow out)

Coil (I use 30awg Kanthal A1 4/5 wrap to get ~1.4ohm, but have been ver successful with 32awg 3/4 to get about the same resistance)

• Find a tool that fits the wick hole pretty close (I use a pick from Home Depot)
• Cut ~5 in wire (you can go shorter to save I prefer the easy handles of longer coil wire for wrapping/installing)
• Burn your wire with a lighter to anneal - I run the lighter flame up once and back making the resistance wire glow (makes the wire hold shape a bit better and burns off any factory residue)
• Wrap your coil around the tool of choice with the ears left even (once I've wrappeed my coil on the tool I hold the ears and roll back/forth between my fingers to get a perfect shape and then squeeze the coil down on the tool to get them perfectly lined up and even)
• Stick the tool right in the wick hole and connect the bottom ear (I go in between the negative screw and the center post counter clockwise and pull snug - when I tighten the negative screw I try to ensure the wire leading out to the wick-side is at the closest point to the wick hole - shorter distance here will eliminate some shorts/hotspots)
• Wrap top ear around center post clockwise and tighten the top center post nut while holding the tool ~1mm away from the center post (coil touching at top is a high risk short/hotspot)
• Pull out the tool and use a toothpick to adjust coil (never ends up being perfect, but why not try...)
• Dry burn your coil to make sure all coils glow evenly (be sure the bottom lead is laying on the bottom till it gets to the wick hole and that the other coils are not touching anywhere)
• Check resistance of your coil (This is the baseline resistance - optimum - and what you should be shooting for in use)

Install Wick

• twist the wick into the installed coil until even with the top center post (if there is too much resistance - the coil starts compressing - roll the wick a little tighter till it slides in with slight resistance but touches all the way around)
• Fill with juice
• Put a few drops of juice on the coil/wick
• Install filler hole screw
• Install top cap
• Vape

Notes:

1. Coils/wicks take 1/2 to a full tank to break in
2. If you check your resistance and it's lower than baseline - vape a little bit, put a few drops of juice on the wick/coil and burn a little - and the twist the wick 1/4 turn and try again
3. If the coils are touching any of the previously noted places use a tootpick to nudge them till they are not.

This all sounds like a lot, but once you get it down it only takes a couple minutes start-to-finish...

If I missed anything, someone will chime in, good luck.

 

[WNCmotard]

I'm having a bad night, took my mini completely apart trying to solve this one. I've built three coils now using the Petar K method, no wick in there at all, simply going to burn in the coil on a low battery, and can't get one to work, I keep getting LO on the provari. What am I doing wrong? It's not touching anywhere, and I hate these tiny thumb screws, I'm gonna find a washer and spring (ball point will work I think) moving forward as the thumb screws are very hard to tighten being so teeny tiny.

 

[Cloud Wizard]

What I love about the DID. I wrapped a coil around my wick last Tuesday. Vaped three tanks. Got fiddly and tried a new type of coil same wick. Vaped another tank then refilled with a natural extraction juice that totally gunked up my wick and coil Saturday. Dry burned vaped a new clean tank. Then tonight I could not take it any more unwound the coil, just unDID the top nut then scraped it clean with my fingernails, reburned my wick once and reseasoned with clean juice. Rewrapped the same wick with the same coil filled with fresh juice and I'm back in the sweet spot so cool! It took less than 5 minutes at this point to clean and recoil. <3 DID

Spot on Man! The wick is the "key"! Once you've got one that is solid you can make it last 6 months with burns and recoils. Out of curiosity, is that a vertebrae holding your setup?

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I'm having a bad night, took my mini completely apart trying to solve this one. I've built three coils now using the Petar K method, no wick in there at all, simply going to burn in the coil on a low battery, and can't get one to work, I keep getting LO on the provari. What am I doing wrong? It's not touching anywhere, and I hate these tiny thumb screws, I'm gonna find a washer and spring (ball point will work I think) moving forward as the thumb screws are very hard to tighten being so teeny tiny.

If you're getting E1/E2 on bare coil, and you've checked to be sure the wire isn't touching anywhere (including between coil wraps), check to be sure you haven't compressed the teflon on the center post to the point where the bottom nut is touching the tank top.

If that doesn't work, try a straight piece of wire connected to neg screw and center post, but make it longer and straight (just a test). Depending on your wire (Kanthal A-1: 30awg=0.721ohm/in, 32awg=1.151ohm/in, 34awg=1.773/in) so measure a know length like 2 in of 32awg should give you about 2.3ohm (only measuring the length free between posts as thats what is metered) to see what the Provari reads. If you use 2 inch 32 and the Provari reads LO something is wrong with your electronics (Provape has instructions on their support site for cleaning out juice seepage, etc), check your contacts. Also. make sure when building you have your Provari set to 2.9v (If you can only get to 3.0v you have a Provari V1 which had a lighter switch amperage [2.5amp] and should upgrade through Provape for $20 to V2 [3.5amp switch])

Hope this helps.

 

[gnc207]

Last week of aug, so yours should be arriving soon. If you go to super t area in suppliers forum you can ask what order they will ship through this week. Your sis will love it. It hits hard and strong and is pocket or purse ( so I imagine friendly. Very well made, like the DID.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

Yes, pocket or purse friendly was one of the goals.
I have my satin DID with mini satin Provari in my pocket all the time.
With 500 & 30 setup, no leaks, no issues, just have to carry 2-3 more 18350 bats if I go for a full day.

 

[chieftechnicalwizard]

Spot on Man! The wick is the "key"! Once you've got one that is solid you can make it last 6 months with burns and recoils. Out of curiosity, is that a vertebrae holding your setup?

That is a vertebrae for a pipe project.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[Cloud Wizard]

That is a vertebrae for a pipe project.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Bovine? Makes a pretty cool PV holder

 

[WNCmotard]

If you're getting E1/E2 on bare coil, and you've checked to be sure the wire isn't touching anywhere (including between coil wraps), check to be sure you haven't compressed the teflon on the center post to the point where the bottom nut is touching the tank top.

If that doesn't work, try a straight piece of wire connected to neg screw and center post, but make it longer and straight (just a test). Depending on your wire (Kanthal A-1: 30awg=0.721ohm/in, 32awg=1.151ohm/in, 34awg=1.773/in) so measure a know length like 2 in of 32awg should give you about 2.3ohm (only measuring the length free between posts as thats what is metered) to see what the Provari reads. If you use 2 inch 32 and the Provari reads LO something is wrong with your electronics (Provape has instructions on their support site for cleaning out juice seepage, etc), check your contacts. Also. make sure when building you have your Provari set to 2.9v (If you can only get to 3.0v you have a Provari V1 which had a lighter switch amperage [2.5amp] and should upgrade through Provape for $20 to V2 [3.5amp switch])

Hope this helps.

It's on a mini, so I don't think it would touch even if you did compress the nut to tight, not that you could as it's finger tightening only and the nut isn't large enough either way.

It's on an almost new Provari mini V2, that really hasn't even been used that much to be honest. I was trying it at 2.9, as to break in the coil slowly, on a well run down battery. I tried the straight piece of wire 2 inches long, and readings are all over the place, no E1 or E2 errors, but it goes back and forth from say 1.x to LO. I'll try cleaning it tomorrow night, I've had enough for tonight, I'm gonna vape myself silly and go to bed. Thanks CloudWizard.

 

[studiovap]

Yes, pocket or purse friendly was one of the goals.
I have my satin DID with mini satin Provari in my pocket all the time.
With 500 & 30 setup, no leaks, no issues, just have to carry 2-3 more 18350 bats if I go for a full day.

I'm having a few issues getting a good set-up with my mini. I have to have the fill screw out to get any kind off wicking happening, I have #500 mesh tight rolled nearly no center hole (tiny), I've tried all types of coils 2/3 3/4 4/5 32awg, currently running 6wrap 32awp twisted, it's the best so far but still dare not put the fill screw in and not great on an ego with the current coil. Anyone with a good mini DID setup please post your system/setup.
Thanks in advance.
My DID std is rocking, but this little beauty is only running at half potential from what others have reported.

 

[MisterCombo21]

It's on a mini, so I don't think it would touch even if you did compress the nut to tight, not that you could as it's finger tightening only and the nut isn't large enough either way.

It's on an almost new Provari mini V2, that really hasn't even been used that much to be honest. I was trying it at 2.9, as to break in the coil slowly, on a well run down battery. I tried the straight piece of wire 2 inches long, and readings are all over the place, no E1 or E2 errors, but it goes back and forth from say 1.x to LO. I'll try cleaning it tomorrow night, I've had enough for tonight, I'm gonna vape myself silly and go to bed. Thanks CloudWizard.

Very odd... I have had tons of issues with the provari and DID but have never really had that particular issue... I've only gotten
the LO a few times. I too think something must be touching or there's a provari issue. The resistance would probably have to be under .9 to register that as far as I know. I actually did get it once tonight as I have been playing with 30awg and got about .9 to 1.2 with 5 wraps, much better on the precise by the way.
Is it annealed enough? Any kinks? Try wrapping it on the installed wick instead and see if that helps. Wish I had more ideas, I've never gotten the Lo that much.

 

[turnforward]

This is my third wick/coil. First one,to many shorts for my ProVeri. Second one, worked and was better (5 wrap coil) and no error codes, but the oms keep getting higher as time went by, and had a metallic taste like I have heard from others. I realized that the cheap $7 torch I got from H Freight might not get hot enough.

So this time, I oxidized the wick the same way, (One pre-burn, rolled then burn/quench three times, and three juice burns), but this time I spent longer on each burn then after the juice burns I DID two more burns with/out quenching. This time the wick was evenly black all the way around, and there were no "colorful" areas on it. This time I made sure the wick was snug in the hole, and wrapped the coil three times.
The piece of cardboard in the picture is what I used to cut the mesh piece and it measures 3 cm x 4 cm. The wick in the picture is like a straw and I can easily fit a round toothpick in the center.

This one had no shorts, and a "rock steady" 1.8 oms for the last 3 days. It tasted and vaped "OK" but my STDC and Boge Carts tasted and vaporized a little better.
I usually vape at an 80 degree angle, and the DID could not go any higher than 3.8 volts with out burning, and I could hear a little after-burn sizzle after every hit. Then I started hitting it at an 90 degree angle and higher with the wick on the bottom of the PV. Then I could turn the voltage a little higher. BUT, the vape was inconsistent. At first, you could tell that the wick was saturated and it gave a good strong flavor with little vapor, then I would drop down the angle and it hit pretty good for a few hits, then it would start to burn a little. Then I would start the cycle over again. (It reminded me of dripping an atty, and I hate dripping.)

PLEASE HELP
I have always heard people saying that the ss mesh always wicked better than everything else, and I would love the DID if I can get it to wick consistently at around an 80 degree angle. The juices I use are mostly tastyvapor.us juices at 70/30 mix and also myvaporstore.com 50/50 red & white tobacco and V4L butterscotch.

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I'm having a few issues getting a good set-up with my mini. I have to have the fill screw out to get any kind off wicking happening, I have #500 mesh tight rolled nearly no center hole (tiny), I've tried all types of coils 2/3 3/4 4/5 32awg, currently running 6wrap 32awp twisted, it's the best so far but still dare not put the fill screw in and not great on an ego with the current coil. Anyone with a good mini DID setup please post your system/setup.
Thanks in advance.
My DID std is rocking, but this little beauty is only running at half potential from what others have reported.

I use the same setup I posted above with my Mini except:

• 40mm (tall) x ~35mm mesh (wide)
• wrap my wick on a 1/16in drill bit
• use a 8D nail to wrap my coil

Works pretty well for a generic setup

 

[WNCmotard]

Well, after hours and hours of fiddling, I finally got a working wick / coil setup. Now the o ring has compressed, and it won't fire on my Prodigy, GRRRRRR, I seriously hate this thing right now. The positive post issue needs to be adressed at the factory, there have been two mechanical devices today alone with firing issues that had to find work arounds.

 

[Striker911]

If anyone wants to sell let me know. I figured the tricks to this out with my DADS To bad I didnt give it more time till I pulled out the drill of death. Should have started from the inside. Should have used a press. Should have left it alone.

 

[Nicotinologist]

There are some sure fire ways to get up and running (sans fine "expert" fine tuning).

Wick

1. Cut wick material (I like the 400 Jim provides but am now experimenting with 500) to 40mm x 50mm (1/2 a sheet provided with DID)
2. Torch both side of mesh flat (aka "Jack Frost" method - doesn't require a ton of burn, just glow bright orange and move on to cover the mesh both sides)
3. Fold leading edge ~1mm (on the side you roll to be the outside - gets rid of pointy edges that may cause shorts/hot spots later)
4. Roll wick on the allen wrench that comes with the DID or any tool that is just a little smaller than the wick hole (I use and 8D finishing nail and just keep checking the width till it fits the wick hole with just enough friction that it slide in easily but holds if let go)
5. Once shaped, the tool can be removed and the wick can be tightened more by rolling to right fit
6. Cut a 45 degree cut at the bottom and insert wick till it touches bottom (the angle cut let bubbles come out the bottom easier which seems to provide better wicking later)
7. Cut the wick ~1mm below top of center post (that way when you install later and line it up with the top you know it's not touching the bottom of the tank)
8. 3X Torch the wick and quench (I use my pick stuck just barely in the end to keep me from getting burnt and torch the wick end to end while rolling it till it glows orange then stick in trickle of water running in the faucet)
9. 3X Juice burn (dowse the wick in juice - PG/VG is irrelevant - light on fire with lighter and let burn till fire starts going out and then blow out)

Coil (I use 30awg Kanthal A1 4/5 wrap to get ~1.4ohm, but have been ver successful with 32awg 3/4 to get about the same resistance)

• Find a tool that fits the wick hole pretty close (I use a pick from Home Depot)
• Cut ~5 in wire (you can go shorter to save I prefer the easy handles of longer coil wire for wrapping/installing)
• Burn your wire with a lighter to anneal - I run the lighter flame up once and back making the resistance wire glow (makes the wire hold shape a bit better and burns off any factory residue)
• Wrap your coil around the tool of choice with the ears left even (once I've wrappeed my coil on the tool I hold the ears and roll back/forth between my fingers to get a perfect shape and then squeeze the coil down on the tool to get them perfectly lined up and even)
• Stick the tool right in the wick hole and connect the bottom ear (I go in between the negative screw and the center post counter clockwise and pull snug - when I tighten the negative screw I try to ensure the wire leading out to the wick-side is at the closest point to the wick hole - shorter distance here will eliminate some shorts/hotspots)
• Wrap top ear around center post clockwise and tighten the top center post nut while holding the tool ~1mm away from the center post (coil touching at top is a high risk short/hotspot)
• Pull out the tool and use a toothpick to adjust coil (never ends up being perfect, but why not try...)
• Dry burn your coil to make sure all coils glow evenly (be sure the bottom lead is laying on the bottom till it gets to the wick hole and that the other coils are not touching anywhere)
• Check resistance of your coil (This is the baseline resistance - optimum - and what you should be shooting for in use)

Install Wick

• twist the wick into the installed coil until even with the top center post (if there is too much resistance - the coil starts compressing - roll the wick a little tighter till it slides in with slight resistance but touches all the way around)
• Fill with juice
• Put a few drops of juice on the coil/wick
• Install filler hole screw
• Install top cap
• Vape

Notes:

1. Coils/wicks take 1/2 to a full tank to break in
2. If you check your resistance and it's lower than baseline - vape a little bit, put a few drops of juice on the wick/coil and burn a little - and the twist the wick 1/4 turn and try again
3. If the coils are touching any of the previously noted places use a tootpick to nudge them till they are not.

This all sounds like a lot, but once you get it down it only takes a couple minutes start-to-finish...

If I missed anything, someone will chime in, good luck.

I really appreciate your well thought instructions and advice. I have practically done most of them except for torching the wire mesh before it is rolled. I really think I should switch to A1 30 gauge Kanthal wire or A1 28 gauge as recommended in one YouTube DID reviews, but it is almost non-existant or available in short lenghts. I am really serious in getting some wicking ceramic rods that are made in China.
Your help I really appreciate very much. I'll keep you posted. Do you remember the early PureSmoker mod switch problem? The DID seems to have a similar problem, too fiddely, lol...

 

[overall]

There is a learning curve to getting the DID if you read through this thread you will find all kinds of mesh oxidizing tips. The shorts are operator error and not device. The air inlet hole is pretty standard. It is an easier draw than cartos and the draw is very quick to get used to. Many of us have drilled our holes even bigger.
About the ceramic wick.....I purchased some to try. The wick sheds fibers like crazy, the fibers are fiberglass and embed themselves in your skin just setting the thing up. I decided not to vape anything that sheds fiberglass fibers. Stick with silica wick if you want an alternative to mesh. Of course you can use cotton or bamboo if you please as well.

I just got my DID today. I am very, very disappointed with this crap. I have changed the coil 6 times now, replaced the wire mesh twice. Still a piece of crap. The first problem I noticed right away is it is too airy. The air inlet hole should have been drilled smaller so the user can have the option to enlarge it very very slowly in small increments. The best thing they did is switch to stainless steel center rod and knurled nuts from brass. Gone is the allen panhead screws, but why not Philip head screws? With the Philip heads they will not fall off so easily. The wire mesh is the main problem. The coil windings short out onto the mesh itself. I watch it do it when the wick dries up. I wish he, the designer, knew that a ceramic type wick material is available, at least in the USA. They are available in different porosities. I found it when I was searching for the best wick to use if I have to change to a better material because I suspected that the wire mesh is a potential short circuit problem. They are available custom built to whatever dimensions you want. I hope they get to read this post. Why do those reviewers of the DID don't seem to report the negatives? Say it like it is! I do not recommend this DID to anyone. It really DID upset me very much.

 

[Monoxxide]

Omfg striker, wat did that piece of metal do wrong to you.