New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[B2L]

I have had my DID now for almost a month now, have been following this thread for about 2 months. This was my first genesis style atty and I and have a few observations:

1- First and foremost flaming a suppliers thread with grudge posts is in very poor taste.
2- The people and the information provided in this thread are top-notch, I had my DID up and running within 15 minutes because of people here with great vapor, TH and flavor from the start
3- Jim has developed and sells an awesome product which you can order without waiting on a list for months, works well and, while not cheap by any stretch, doesnt cost an arm and a leg.
4- Genesis atties in general have a learning curve, mine worked well right away but as I play and learn more it is just getting better.

I'm done now, going back to vaping and reading, thanks for listening

 

[Darryll]

DID with PYREX Glass

You have some splainin' to do.

 

[MisterMike]

I am going to quell the urge to correct the pot-stirrer's behavior, since (s)he is beyond help at this point anyway. Rather, I'm going to lead by example, ask a question about an issue I'm having trouble with, and listen to the advice given me.

When I get to the end of a fill, I generally pop my cap off and see if everything's still working properly. Most of the time, something's happened and only one or two coils light up, and it takes a lot of fiddling to get it burning evenly again. Is this to be expected during a break-in period? Am I doing something wrong? Any time this happens, I slide my wick out and torch it some more just in case. I've even juiced up the wick and coil and burnt it while it was installed, to try and build up some gunk under the coil. Any thoughts?

Also, is there anything wrong with not having the bottom coil light up as bright as the others? I'm thinking that might just be because it's sitting in the condensation that builds up on the inside.

 

[yankeebobo]

I don't see this problem often at all. BUT....one thing to do is give that wick a little twist in the direction of the wrap. That usually does a very nice adjustment to lossen the tight some and tighten the loose some. (if that makes sense). Another thing I do is go to "dry burn" the wick, then take a small, soft bristle detail brush and after the burn, do a gentle sweep of the the coils. Follow that with a gentle twist and you should be back in business.

Not sure of the innards you have but be careful lighting and torching wick while it's assembled. The post is exposed to some intense flames for a short period.

 

[DSmooch]

ur able to slide your wick out with the coils in place?

I am going to quell the urge to correct the pot-stirrer's behavior, since (s)he is beyond help at this point anyway. Rather, I'm going to lead by example, ask a question about an issue I'm having trouble with, and listen to the advice given me.

When I get to the end of a fill, I generally pop my cap off and see if everything's still working properly. Most of the time, something's happened and only one or two coils light up, and it takes a lot of fiddling to get it burning evenly again. Is this to be expected during a break-in period? Am I doing something wrong? Any time this happens, I slide my wick out and torch it some more just in case. I've even juiced up the wick and coil and burnt it while it was installed, to try and build up some gunk under the coil. Any thoughts?

Also, is there anything wrong with not having the bottom coil light up as bright as the others? I'm thinking that might just be because it's sitting in the condensation that builds up on the inside.

 

[ricklynchcore]

If you build your wick, on a screw roughly the size of wick, place screw in well, attach coil, remove screw, you can now twist your wick into place, and remove for cleaning.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[Pete54]

If you build your wick, on a screw roughly the size of wick, place screw in well, attach coil, remove screw, you can now twist your wick into place, and remove for cleaning.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

That's exactly what I do. A good tip is to take a resistance reading with just the coil attached. Then when you slip the wick in, it should read the same resistance. If not, you have a short somewhere. If it reads the same, you're good to go.

 

[MisterMike]

I don't see this problem often at all. BUT....one thing to do is give that wick a little twist in the direction of the wrap. That usually does a very nice adjustment to lossen the tight some and tighten the loose some. (if that makes sense). Another thing I do is go to "dry burn" the wick, then take a small, soft bristle detail brush and after the burn, do a gentle sweep of the the coils. Follow that with a gentle twist and you should be back in business.

Not sure of the innards you have but be careful lighting and torching wick while it's assembled. The post is exposed to some intense flames for a short period.

Leave it to me to have the weird problems.

The one time I tried burning the wick and coil in the device, I had a dry wick and coil, added a couple drops of juice, lit it up and burnt it horizontally with the wick hole in the 12:00 position, to avoid heating up the other parts too much. Didn't notice much of a difference, so I figured I'd stop that line of experimentation before I ruined something.

I'll try brushing my coil (soft bristles... like a small paint brush?) next time I do a dry burn. I've tried twisting the wick, and it's been about 50/50 as far as whether it's effective or not.

ur able to slide your wick out with the coils in place?

I generally have to give the wick a wee twist in order to coax it out, but yes. I've tried popping the wick out and firing the coil without it in there and then sliding it back in. Again, not much difference.

---

More experimentation: I tried wrapping a coil around a .125" drill bit and sliding it into place this time 'round, and it seems to be behaving more consistently. Guess time will tell. I don't really want to vape myself dizzy just to see if this method is more effective, but it seems to be going well so far.

Thanks for the input, everyone!

 

[MisterMike]

That's exactly what I do. A good tip is to take a resistance reading with just the coil attached. Then when you slip the wick in, it should read the same resistance. If not, you have a short somewhere. If it reads the same, you're good to go.

More good advice. Never thought of doing that resistance check with and without the wick.

 

[Tonytiger1]

I like it when the haters write. You guys and girls try so hard to help them I learn something new every time.

What I said to them got deleted. I guess. The Brooklyn in me came out.

The did rocks and I know it.


Tony

 

[Lazerrred]

@ Nicotinologist. I probably should not fall for the bait, but.... I have had one DID for four months and two more DIDS for about three months. I also have a Zen AYS, ASH, and a Mini + a couple of iHibrids and an Orion. All of which have the original SS wicks, and several have even have the original coil. My DIDS run perfect on my ProVari mini and Provari standard once set up properly on a Buzz Pro or a mechanical tube mod. Just my and it ain't blind luck or my first rodeo. The DID is a solid Genesis atomizer that performs amazingly well and is a looker to boot.

 

[gtbb]

Please forget the loser troll! We need to get back to Trademarks pyrex. That looks perfect. I have been hunting glass for the did since May.Please anyone else with info on glass that is as flush as his please post for us all.

 

[vapspaz]

I have had one DID for four months and two more DIDS for about three months. I also have a Zen AYS, ASH, and a Mini + a couple of iHibrids and an Orion. All of which have the original SS wicks, and several have even have the original coil. My DIDS run perfect on my ProVari mini and Provari standard once set up properly on a Buzz Pro or a mechanical tube mod. Just my and it ain't blind luck or my first rodeo. The DID is a solid Genesis atomizer that performs amazingly well and is a looker to boot.

Now ya see! Post like this are gonna give me a aneurysm over the next several weeks before I get my DID mini.

May God have mercy on the mailman the day my new toy arrives. I'll be stalking the poor ....... 6 miles from my house.

 

[DSmooch]

hearing this... it sounds like a common practice!
sounds very unlikely to get an even tension all over your coils like that. when you have loose coils you get the same ohm reading that's true but one or 2 coils are actually doing the work, the ones that get darker, usually on top with a loose setup. if you have a 3/4 wrap with a 32g kenthal... one or 2 loose, you don't have much left...
I got 50 meters of 30g and 28g kenthal from ebay for a few bucks. i use 10cm and roll fresh healthy coil everyday. after all its a rebuildable!
I rebuild the tension from ground up... and throw the ugly used coil away

More good advice. Never thought of doing that resistance check with and without the wick.

 

[ricklynchcore]

hearing this... it sounds like a common practice!
sounds very unlikely to get an even tension all over your coils like that. when you have loose coils you get the same ohm reading that's true but one or 2 coils are actually doing the work, the ones that get darker, usually on top with a loose setup. if you have a 3/4 wrap with a 32g kenthal... one or 2 loose, you don't have much left...
I got 50 meters of 30g and 28g kenthal from ebay for a few bucks. i use 10cm and roll fresh healthy coil everyday. after all its a rebuildable!
I rebuild the tension from ground up... and throw the ugly used coil away

Actually, I think the guy who invented the jack frost method of oxidizing, peter k, coiled this way using an unoxidized wick. It has been adapted by many to use with oxidized wicks. Your right, you will need to find a screw, or nail, or drill bit that will roll a coil just right. If the wick is to loose in coil, it will short, and to tight, it will rub off oxidation or be just to tight to get wick through. On the other hand, if you get it right, it lets you get the wick in and out with firm twisting. Really makes cleaning snappy. Pull wick, burn off gunk, dry burn coils, wick back in, pretty cool.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[DSmooch]

At the end if it works... it works! i don't know.. just like the idea of a fresh coil... just have bad memories of carto/tanks getting messy dark... now about my mesh, i made sure nothing could bring it back to life. its dead for sure. several times

Actually, I think the guy who invented the jack frost method of oxidizing, peter k, coiled this way using an unoxidized wick. It has been adapted by many to use with oxidized wicks. Your right, you will need to find a screw, or nail, or drill bit that will roll a coil just right. If the wick is to loose in coil, it will short, and to tight, it will rub off oxidation or be just to tight to get wick through. On the other hand, if you get it right, it lets you get the wick in and out with firm twisting. Really makes cleaning snappy. Pull wick, burn off gunk, dry burn coils, wick back in, pretty cool.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[MisterCombo21]

Leave it to me to have the weird problems.

The one time I tried burning the wick and coil in the device, I had a dry wick and coil, added a couple drops of juice, lit it up and burnt it horizontally with the wick hole in the 12:00 position, to avoid heating up the other parts too much. Didn't notice much of a difference, so I figured I'd stop that line of experimentation before I ruined something.

I'll try brushing my coil (soft bristles... like a small paint brush?) next time I do a dry burn. I've tried twisting the wick, and it's been about 50/50 as far as whether it's effective or not.



I generally have to give the wick a wee twist in order to coax it out, but yes. I've tried popping the wick out and firing the coil without it in there and then sliding it back in. Again, not much difference.

---

More experimentation: I tried wrapping a coil around a .125" drill bit and sliding it into place this time 'round, and it seems to be behaving more consistently. Guess time will tell. I don't really want to vape myself dizzy just to see if this method is more effective, but it seems to be going well so far.

Thanks for the input, everyone!

I use a stiff toothrbush specifically for that purpose and dip it in cheap vodka. Cleans it pretty well, then again so does a dry burn.

I have been at it for two months and my coils always start out glowing perfectly even but they do not always stay that way. That said, most of the time it still works fine. WHen I decide to do a dry burn after a tank or two, the bottom coil never glows as bright as the others and I adjust a little, refill, and keep going. I have noticed on almost every coil I've built, when I watch the juice bubble on the wick and am firing with the cap off, the coil on the bottom seems to be the laziest. Ill see a few bubbles here and there but the top ones always seem to do most of the work. I also always notice that the top two coils get the majority of the crud buildup. They still work though, even on the finnicky Provari. I am hoping other people experience this too. Usually stable resistance, good flavor anyway.

 

[MisterCombo21]

Anyone think 1.2 ohms seems low for a 5 wrap with 30awg (5 wrap on the front side, looking at it with the positive to the right)? It was fluctuating from 1.0 at the beginning but now is pretty stable on the Provari. Unfortunately I am sending out my Precise for a refurb or I'd be using it on that... I really like using the 30 awg as its easy to work with, but to have a safe resistance on the Provari I would probably need like a 6 or 7 wrap which I believe is probably prone to more issues.

 

[DSmooch]

a 4/5 wrap with the 30awg is exactly what get right now: 1.2. set at 4v on the provari... you get a good 12 watt...
you'll even get away with 1ohm on the provary as long as its stable...

Anyone think 1.2 ohms seems low for a 5 wrap with 30awg (5 wrap on the front side, looking at it with the positive to the right)? It was fluctuating from 1.0 at the beginning but now is pretty stable on the Provari. Unfortunately I am sending out my Precise for a refurb or I'd be using it on that... I really like using the 30 awg as its easy to work with, but to have a safe resistance on the Provari I would probably need like a 6 or 7 wrap which I believe is probably prone to more issues.

 

[yankeebobo]

Time for a commercial break.

DID someone say Pyrex tank?

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.