New Genesis type atomizer by DID!
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M3 ss hex socket screw 11c from local fastener suppliers, Bic biro spring cut in half, thinnest cutting wheel that came with my Dremellalike.
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What have I learned from this thread;
Well lots and lots and lots. The problem is picking out "what works for you".
Now I'm sat here with two DID standards, by my side, both with entirely different setups, but both running my ADV as sweet as can be. So I feel I should state some of the key components of my DID setup method & "what works for me"
Wicks & Oxidization:
I have tried every posted method to get my wick oxidized properly, and the quick all over torch to bright red (not orange) first, then fold over 1mm then roll, then torch to bright red, and quench 2-3 times is what I settled on. You can torch that mesh all day as long as you stay with a red glow and not a bright orange, and it doesn't seem to become brittle.I spend maybe 7-8 mins torching and quenching once it's rolled, and I don't juice burn at this stage.
I only use #500 mesh now, and roll around 160mm by 37.5mm for a solid wick ( this one is for high wattage vaping on my mechanical mod and requires a tank breather hole to stop vacuum lock from hindering wicking),Wick diameter snug fit 3.4mm.
85mm by 37.5mm for a wick with a center hole (this does not require a tank breather fill screw is in place) and has a small gap around the wickhole to reduce adhesive forces in the juice between wick and hole. Wick diameter 3.0-3.2mm, wick internal hole 18g fill needle size.
I usually cut the bottom of my wick at 45 degrees, especially on the open center hole wick.
Coiling:
Before wrapping my coil I de-kink and heat the wire to make it less springy and burn of any impurities
I wrap my coils on drill bits and ss rods the size of my required wick, then insert drill bit with coil on into wickhole.I attach positive post first, and tighten well, then I attach negative ground post after pulling coil tight and spacing evenly. I then push a toothpick in between the coil and the positive nuts to create as little "open air coil" as possible. The drill bit or ss rod should be a pretty tight fit in that coil and I lube it with a little juice to ease it out making sure not to disturb the uniform shape of the coil.
Then I pop my DID on the ZMAX or voltmeter, to check base resistance.
I use 28awg Nichrome 6 to 7 wraps on the thick wick destined for the 3.7v mod giving 0.9 Ohms and 1.2 Ohms,
and 30awg Kanthal A1 5 to 6 wraps on the open center wick destined fro the ZMAX or VV device giving 1.6 Ohms and 1.9 Ohms.
Wick Insertion:
I then adjust the roll of my wick to be a snug twist fit into the waiting coil, but I don't slide it all the way in yet.
I set the DID on a mod or support so it is completely upright and insert the wick, leave 3/4 of it above the coil, and then drip unflavored VG onto the wick, and then I light the very top of the wick with a lighter, and let it burn down until the flame reaches the coil, then I blow it out (before it heats up the plastic insulator on the top platform). I repeat this 2-4 times.
This not only seasons the wick, but it also oxidizes it very gently but evenly.
Then I put just enough VG on the wick where the coil will sit to lubricate the twisting insertion.
I leave my wick very slightly above the top nut, but not so high as it hits the topcap, (and the wick is not touching the bottom of the tank)
Dry burning & Coil adjustment:
This is the area that I have most recently had a break through with.
No matter what method you use to oxidize your wick this is when you do most damage to the very thin layer of protection, or so I have found.
Once the wick is in place, I set my ZMAX to 3watts and dry fire it ( it should only take a few moments for the "just enough VG on the wick where the coil will sit" to burn off), pulsing the switch at first then holding for longer if no shorts or hotspots are observed.
Hot spots are either caused by shorts of a loose wrap of coil, and both are best addressed while the coil is hot. I use a toothpick to move the offending coil a little up or a little down, and while it is hot it moves freely and stays where you put it.
If all is well and evenly glowing at 3watts i bump up to 4watts, pulse the switch then hold for longer, again checking for shorts and hotspots, then i go to 5watts and then the same at 6-12. If it wont fire evenly a little above your desired final vape power when dry, then it will be hit and miss when juiced up (or so I've found).
This is a good point to check resistance, which should be dam close if not spot on you originally tested base level.
If all is good a little above that desired vaping power, then I add some juice to the wick and start again at 3watts building up power and adding juice directly to the wick as i go, checking again for hotspots/loose coils. I then check Ohms again.
Only then if all is good do I fill that tank.
Then I enjoy my best ever vaping experience.
I could go into more detail, but I expect you're glazing over by now LOL.
Well lots and lots and lots. The problem is picking out "what works for you".
Now I'm sat here with two DID standards, by my side, both with entirely different setups, but both running my ADV as sweet as can be. So I feel I should state some of the key components of my DID setup method & "what works for me"
Wicks & Oxidization:
I have tried every posted method to get my wick oxidized properly, and the quick all over torch to bright red (not orange) first, then fold over 1mm then roll, then torch to bright red, and quench 2-3 times is what I settled on. You can torch that mesh all day as long as you stay with a red glow and not a bright orange, and it doesn't seem to become brittle.I spend maybe 7-8 mins torching and quenching once it's rolled, and I don't juice burn at this stage.
I only use #500 mesh now, and roll around 160mm by 37.5mm for a solid wick ( this one is for high wattage vaping on my mechanical mod and requires a tank breather hole to stop vacuum lock from hindering wicking),Wick diameter snug fit 3.4mm.
85mm by 37.5mm for a wick with a center hole (this does not require a tank breather fill screw is in place) and has a small gap around the wickhole to reduce adhesive forces in the juice between wick and hole. Wick diameter 3.0-3.2mm, wick internal hole 18g fill needle size.
I usually cut the bottom of my wick at 45 degrees, especially on the open center hole wick.
Coiling:
Before wrapping my coil I de-kink and heat the wire to make it less springy and burn of any impurities
I wrap my coils on drill bits and ss rods the size of my required wick, then insert drill bit with coil on into wickhole.I attach positive post first, and tighten well, then I attach negative ground post after pulling coil tight and spacing evenly. I then push a toothpick in between the coil and the positive nuts to create as little "open air coil" as possible. The drill bit or ss rod should be a pretty tight fit in that coil and I lube it with a little juice to ease it out making sure not to disturb the uniform shape of the coil.
Then I pop my DID on the ZMAX or voltmeter, to check base resistance.
I use 28awg Nichrome 6 to 7 wraps on the thick wick destined for the 3.7v mod giving 0.9 Ohms and 1.2 Ohms,
and 30awg Kanthal A1 5 to 6 wraps on the open center wick destined fro the ZMAX or VV device giving 1.6 Ohms and 1.9 Ohms.
Wick Insertion:
I then adjust the roll of my wick to be a snug twist fit into the waiting coil, but I don't slide it all the way in yet.
I set the DID on a mod or support so it is completely upright and insert the wick, leave 3/4 of it above the coil, and then drip unflavored VG onto the wick, and then I light the very top of the wick with a lighter, and let it burn down until the flame reaches the coil, then I blow it out (before it heats up the plastic insulator on the top platform). I repeat this 2-4 times.
This not only seasons the wick, but it also oxidizes it very gently but evenly.
Then I put just enough VG on the wick where the coil will sit to lubricate the twisting insertion.
I leave my wick very slightly above the top nut, but not so high as it hits the topcap, (and the wick is not touching the bottom of the tank)
Dry burning & Coil adjustment:
This is the area that I have most recently had a break through with.
No matter what method you use to oxidize your wick this is when you do most damage to the very thin layer of protection, or so I have found.
Once the wick is in place, I set my ZMAX to 3watts and dry fire it ( it should only take a few moments for the "just enough VG on the wick where the coil will sit" to burn off), pulsing the switch at first then holding for longer if no shorts or hotspots are observed.
Hot spots are either caused by shorts of a loose wrap of coil, and both are best addressed while the coil is hot. I use a toothpick to move the offending coil a little up or a little down, and while it is hot it moves freely and stays where you put it.
If all is well and evenly glowing at 3watts i bump up to 4watts, pulse the switch then hold for longer, again checking for shorts and hotspots, then i go to 5watts and then the same at 6-12. If it wont fire evenly a little above your desired final vape power when dry, then it will be hit and miss when juiced up (or so I've found).
This is a good point to check resistance, which should be dam close if not spot on you originally tested base level.
If all is good a little above that desired vaping power, then I add some juice to the wick and start again at 3watts building up power and adding juice directly to the wick as i go, checking again for hotspots/loose coils. I then check Ohms again.
Only then if all is good do I fill that tank.
Then I enjoy my best ever vaping experience.
I could go into more detail, but I expect you're glazing over by now LOL.
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I feel bad for you - you just bought a sub-standard, inferior genisis made with inferior parts. The Real DID is all SS with exact airhole alignment and smooth as silk threading, not to mention superior support from the maker.
I have asked this here before with no answers...but ill try again..what size are the o-rings on the did tank
Be safe, fellow northeasterners.
DID's marshaled. Check.
Batteries charged. Check.
Juice stocked. Check.
I think I'll be O...
Same here on LI,NY. I have the front door open. I'm waiting to be impressed lol.
Yeah. Nothing big yet. Some wind but nothing outside the normal windy day. Couple of gusts came by. But we aren't expecting until late afternoon, mainly evening. Stay safe and well. It is coming.
Ahh much better. Fresh night sleep. Just about everything recoiled and/or rebuilt. Batteries all charged. Vaping happily. And generator locked and loaded for good measure. 
Stay safe to all neighbors
Stay safe to all neighbors
Adjustable tank vent solved.
Thoughts: Needed to grind screw head down a little to fit inside top cap.
Spring from Pen would have been a little better if it was a slightly smaller gauge to ensure less "slop"
Would be good to have some sort of visible scale on the screw to get consistent adjustment
each time it has to be removed
Other than that is works great.
I turn it parallel to the ground and adjust screw until no leaking occurs, but fire it to make sure it is wicking well.
Realized we don't need a visible scale on the screw for consistent or repeatable breather valve setting. The solution is simple. When you find the right balance between not leaking and good wicking, turn the screw in until it fully compresses the spring counting the turns as you go. My DID is perfect at one full turn out from fully compressed, thats far less airflow needed than I was expecting..
So when I remove the screw to refill I screw it in until it stops then one full turn anti clockwise and I'm set
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Filled all my gas cans and went to start the generator only to realize I gave it to my brother a couple months ago when his power was out and I forgot to replace it. Luckily Saturday I was able to get my name on a list for a truck load coming in and went and picked a new one up early this AM (everyone is sold out all the way to Ohio...). On top of that, I seem to have lost my Provari with a full OdyV2 on it.Ahh much better. Fresh night sleep. Just about everything recoiled and/or rebuilt. Batteries all charged. Vaping happily. And generator locked and loaded for good measure.
Stay safe to all neighbors
Bigger picture, the family is healthy and safe, all 5 DIDs are prepped/filled and 8 18650 IMRs charged. Thoughts and prayers for everyone in the path of Sandy.
How's everyone doing this morning? Anyone have pics of their Gemini on a P+18650?
+10~!!What have I learned from this thread;
Well lots and lots and lots. The problem is picking out "what works for you".
Now I'm sat here with two DID standards, by my side, both with entirely different setups, but both running my ADV as sweet as can be. So I feel I should state some of the key components of my DID setup method & "what works for me"
Wicks & Oxidization:
I have tried every posted method to get my wick oxidized properly, and the quick all over torch to bright red (not orange) first, then fold over 1mm then roll, then torch to bright red, and quench 2-3 times is what I settled on. You can torch that mesh all day as long as you stay with a red glow and not a bright orange, and it doesn't seem to become brittle.I spend maybe 7-8 mins torching and quenching once it's rolled, and I don't juice burn at this stage.
I only use #500 mesh now, and roll around 160mm by 37.5mm for a solid wick ( this one is for high wattage vaping on my mechanical mod and requires a tank breather hole to stop vacuum lock from hindering wicking),Wick diameter snug fit 3.4mm.
85mm by 37.5mm for a wick with a center hole (this does not require a tank breather fill screw is in place) and has a small gap around the wickhole to reduce adhesive forces in the juice between wick and hole. Wick diameter 3.0-3.2mm, wick internal hole 18g fill needle size.
I usually cut the bottom of my wick at 45 degrees, especially on the open center hole wick.
Coiling:
Before wrapping my coil I de-kink and heat the wire to make it less springy and burn of any impurities
I wrap my coils on drill bits and ss rods the size of my required wick, then insert drill bit with coil on into wickhole.I attach positive post first, and tighten well, then I attach negative ground post after pulling coil tight and spacing evenly. I then push a toothpick in between the coil and the positive nuts to create as little "open air coil" as possible. The drill bit or ss rod should be a pretty tight fit in that coil and I lube it with a little juice to ease it out making sure not to disturb the uniform shape of the coil.
Then I pop my DID on the ZMAX or voltmeter, to check base resistance.
I use 28awg Nichrome 6 to 7 wraps on the thick wick destined for the 3.7v mod giving 0.9 Ohms and 1.2 Ohms,
and 30awg Kanthal A1 5 to 6 wraps on the open center wick destined fro the ZMAX or VV device giving 1.6 Ohms and 1.9 Ohms.
Wick Insertion:
I then adjust the roll of my wick to be a snug twist fit into the waiting coil, but I don't slide it all the way in yet.
I set the DID on a mod or support so it is completely upright and insert the wick, leave 3/4 of it above the coil, and then drip unflavored VG onto the wick, and then I light the very top of the wick with a lighter, and let it burn down until the flame reaches the coil, then I blow it out (before it heats up the plastic insulator on the top platform). I repeat this 2-4 times.
This not only seasons the wick, but it also oxidizes it very gently but evenly.
Then I put just enough VG on the wick where the coil will sit to lubricate the twisting insertion.
I leave my wick very slightly above the top nut, but not so high as it hits the topcap, (and the wick is not touching the bottom of the tank)
Dry burning & Coil adjustment:
This is the area that I have most recently had a break through with.
No matter what method you use to oxidize your wick this is when you do most damage to the very thin layer of protection, or so I have found.
Once the wick is in place, I set my ZMAX to 3watts and dry fire it ( it should only take a few moments for the "just enough VG on the wick where the coil will sit" to burn off), pulsing the switch at first then holding for longer if no shorts or hotspots are observed.
Hot spots are either caused by shorts of a loose wrap of coil, and both are best addressed while the coil is hot. I use a toothpick to move the offending coil a little up or a little down, and while it is hot it moves freely and stays where you put it.
If all is well and evenly glowing at 3watts i bump up to 4watts, pulse the switch then hold for longer, again checking for shorts and hotspots, then i go to 5watts and then the same at 6-12. If it wont fire evenly a little above your desired final vape power when dry, then it will be hit and miss when juiced up (or so I've found).
This is a good point to check resistance, which should be dam close if not spot on you originally tested base level.
If all is good a little above that desired vaping power, then I add some juice to the wick and start again at 3watts building up power and adding juice directly to the wick as i go, checking again for hotspots/loose coils. I then check Ohms again.
Only then if all is good do I fill that tank.
Then I enjoy my best ever vaping experience.
I could go into more detail, but I expect you're glazing over by now LOL.
Thank you for such a detailed outline!
Same here. I promise myself to try the non-quench method, but never do... I like the stiffened wick, especially on my country road..errr. trail... well, it's a jeep road, so it's a road right.
The non-quenched leaves flexibility in the equation, best saved for a rainy day, perhaps. Or for when I have extra DID's.
I'm with you Uma. A stiff wick is always easier to work with imo. It tends to be much easier to over-tighten ones coil with floppy wicks, which is one of the main offenders for hotspots at the top wrap.
Filled all my gas cans and went to start the generator only to realize I gave it to my brother a couple months ago when his power was out and I forgot to replace it. Luckily Saturday I was able to get my name on a list for a truck load coming in and went and picked a new one up early this AM (everyone is sold out all the way to Ohio...). On top of that, I seem to have lost my Provari with a full OdyV2 on it.
Bigger picture, the family is healthy and safe, all 5 DIDs are prepped/filled and 8 18650 IMRs charged. Thoughts and prayers for everyone in the path of Sandy.
Oh wow. Well glad you got one. Many generators were sold out last Friday even. We picked one up after LAST Octobers storm. I'm ready. And vaping.
Stay safe
Whoa, that was close! Thank goodness you were able to get hold of one!Filled all my gas cans and went to start the generator only to realize I gave it to my brother a couple months ago when his power was out and I forgot to replace it. Luckily Saturday I was able to get my name on a list for a truck load coming in and went and picked a new one up early this AM (everyone is sold out all the way to Ohio...). On top of that, I seem to have lost my Provari with a full OdyV2 on it.
Bigger picture, the family is healthy and safe, all 5 DIDs are prepped/filled and 8 18650 IMRs charged. Thoughts and prayers for everyone in the path of Sandy.
Acck!! I hope you find your Provari soon!! That sucks as big as the incoming storm!
Stay SAFE!!!
You're all in my thoughts and prayers.
This is great!! Bookmarking this for future reference.Realized we don't need a visible scale on the screw for consistent or repeatable breather valve setting. The solution is simple. When you find the right balance between not leaking and good wicking, turn the screw in until it fully compresses the spring counting the turns as you go. My DID is perfect at one full turn out from fully compressed, thats far less airflow needed than I was expecting..
So when I remove the screw to refill I screw it in until it stops then one full turn anti clockwise and I'm set
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...enesis-type-atomizer-did-222.html#post7616973
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