New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

Status
Not open for further replies.

rwechsler

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2011
2,580
4,050
32
Los Angeles, CA
Also, got some closeups of the Temon switch and 510 caps for everyone! Looks like the full kit will include both brass and SS button contacts (brass with the brass switch, ss with the ss switch) and brass contacts in the 510 caps, so you'll be able to mix and match whatever works best for you! I must say that the threading looks unbelievably clean...can't wait for mine to arrive :)
2012-11-08_14-30-29_514.jpg
I'm at my client's office in Sharjah right now, and flickr is blocked here, so I'll upload the other pics I have from Hlias (one of Jim's employees) when I get back to my hotel later tonight.

Disregard the 2 attached photos of a DID! I thought that they were of the D16, but they're actually the D20!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0031-1.jpg
    IMG_0031-1.jpg
    40.6 KB · Views: 248
  • IMG_0030.jpg
    IMG_0030.jpg
    39.8 KB · Views: 317
Last edited:

vapspaz

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 21, 2010
4,218
8,873
SC
Temon B.T.O. - MMVapors
Temon BTO (built to order) is now available on Jim's site! This way, you get the Temon and D16, but with just a single mod, not the entire set.

Oh hell yeah! I was just thinking about this yesterday and how it would be a nice economical way to get a complete set-up to get started with. Thank you Jim!

tumblr_m9fsgbnsYo1reko8lo1_250.gif


Christmas bells are ringgggg ingggg! :D
 

vapspaz

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 21, 2010
4,218
8,873
SC
One thing about those pics, why does it look like the wick is coiled all the way to the bottom of the tank?

LOL I noticed that also and thought "what the hell??". I think it's because of the "rough" machining groves on the outside of the tank. If you look close you can see them.
 

vapspaz

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 21, 2010
4,218
8,873
SC
I've been holding off asking this question for a long time now because I know many many others in the past have asked the same thing and I thought I could figure this out on my own. But I give up so I gotta ask.

How do I get my mini working to it's full potential? The vapor, flavor, TH and temp are almost nonexistent. I do get a little vapor and flavor but no TH or warmth at all. I know this little thing can crank it out because of the quality built into it and it is frustrating the living crap out of me that I can't get it.
Here are a few things I have tried so far and probably even more that I have forgotten by now.

The Battery end of the center post had a small center point about a .75 mm long when it first arrived so I sanded this down so the battery contact would be flat. Small QC issue??
I'm using the clear tank for all my set-ups.
Removed small little bur inside of air hole and wiggled a needle around in it to ensure it was fully opened.

Tight rolled #500 wick no center hole snug fit into the wick hole
Tight rolled #500 wick no center hole loose fit into the wick hole
Tight rolled #400 wick no center hole snug fit into the wick hole
Jack Frost method and every other method known to man-kind ( I have had better luck with a stiff wick and not a limp one) ;)
Juice burns before, during and/or after making wicks
In the beginning I fought the normal shorts and hot spots but I have it down now using the drill bit method and can get all my coils to glow perfectly with the wick in or out.
I check my ohms (on Provari) before and after I install the wick and keep fiddling until they read the same and all coils glow with the wick in.
I do not cut the bottom of the wick on an angle as I feel this is not needed and would only "close-off/pinch" the juice flow on the end of the wick.
6/7 wrap 28ga Kanthal coil (not enough room inside the mini to play with this stuff much and it takes to long to heat up)
6/7 wrap 30ga Kanthal coil
5/6 wrap 30ga Kanthal coil
4/5 wrap 30ga Kanthal coil
3/4 wrap 30ga Kanthal coil
4/5 wrap 34ga Kanthal coil
3/4 wrap 34ga Kanthal coil
2/3 wrap 34ga Kanthal coil
4/5 wrap 34ga Nichrome coil
3/4 wrap 34ga Nichrome coil
2/3 wrap 34ga Nichrome coil

At first I think I had the wick to high because when I put the top cap on everything went to hell, so now I make sure it's at or below the top of the center post.

Currently my best set-up so far is a 2/3 34ga Kanthal on a trimmed down fat wick with a small inside hole. I think I used a 18 ga blunt needle to re-wrap the wick around.
I made a new coil and then trimmed off about 20 mm off of what was a 90 mm wick then I rolled it tight until it fell through the coil and tank hole. I then "un-wound" it until it was a perfect fit inside the coil. This worked perfectly btw. Not a single hot spot or short.

The only thing I haven't tried yet is to open the Air hole a little but I hate to f'up my top cap if that's not going to fix the weakness problem. I kinda like the draw on it now but if opening it up will fix my problem I don't have a problem with that.

I'm sure I'm forgetting to mention something in all this giberish but most of the info is here.

Anyone have any advise they could share? :confused:
 

-GR-

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 29, 2011
270
106
Pennsylvania
I recently bought a short DID off the classifieds as well as bought a Gemini through Jim's site. I have some other gauges of wire coming which should be here today. I have some more experimenting to do regarding coil setup but I have been very successful getting coils made that glow evenly. Just gotta get the right temp and wicking and I will be all set.

I am anxiously awaiting the Poldiac. I will definitely pick at least one if not two of them up.
 

MiriamWTH

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2011
778
2,889
55
Tilburg (Netherlands)
I do not cut the bottom of the wick on an angle as I feel this is not needed and would only "close-off/pinch" the juice flow on the end of the wick.

This is the only thing that stuck out to me personally. I always cut the bottom of the wick at an angel and then squeeze it a bit to get the center hole open again.
I find this helps with the wicking but your millage may vary.
 

Jim Damianidis

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Apr 29, 2012
1,110
5,576
Greece,Athens
www.mmvapors.com
Also, got some closeups of the Temon switch and 510 caps for everyone! Looks like the full kit will include both brass and SS button contacts (brass with the brass switch, ss with the ss switch) and brass contacts in the 510 caps, so you'll be able to mix and match whatever works best for you! I must say that the threading looks unbelievably clean...can't wait for mine to arrive :)
View attachment 149446
I'm at my client's office in Sharjah right now, and flickr is blocked here, so I'll upload the other pics I have from Hlias (one of Jim's employees) when I get back to my hotel later tonight.

Disregard the 2 attached photos of a DID! I thought that they were of the D16, but they're actually the D20!



Elias is playing! that what it is!
 

Jim Damianidis

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Apr 29, 2012
1,110
5,576
Greece,Athens
www.mmvapors.com
Hi there!
After complains about the slots, that they are someone else Greek ventor I will not give the third part!
So the set will be at 185 Euro from now and on and people who bought allready do not worry will refund or give a voucher for next order!
and after many requests I made it BTO so you can have this set cheaper!
Thank you all and I mean it!
Thank you!
 
Last edited:

MiriamWTH

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2011
778
2,889
55
Tilburg (Netherlands)
Hi there!
After complains about the slots, that they are someone else Greek ventor I will not give the third part!
So the set will be at 185 Euro from now and on and people who bought allready do not worry will refund or give a voucher for next order!
and after many requests I made it BTO so you can have this set cheaper!
Thank you all and I mean it!
Thank you!

Jim you should consider also putting 14xxx batteries up in your supplies section ;-)
 

shoutdawg

Full Member
Jan 24, 2012
40
41
H-stone
I've been holding off asking this question for a long time now because I know many many others in the past have asked the same thing and I thought I could figure this out on my own. But I give up so I gotta ask.

How do I get my mini working to it's full potential? The vapor, flavor, TH and temp are almost nonexistent. I do get a little vapor and flavor but no TH or warmth at all. I know this little thing can crank it out because of the quality built into it and it is frustrating the living crap out of me that I can't get it.
Here are a few things I have tried so far and probably even more that I have forgotten by now.

The Battery end of the center post had a small center point about a .75 mm long when it first arrived so I sanded this down so the battery contact would be flat. Small QC issue??
I'm using the clear tank for all my set-ups.
Removed small little bur inside of air hole and wiggled a needle around in it to ensure it was fully opened.

Tight rolled #500 wick no center hole snug fit into the wick hole
Tight rolled #500 wick no center hole loose fit into the wick hole
Tight rolled #400 wick no center hole snug fit into the wick hole
Jack Frost method and every other method known to man-kind ( I have had better luck with a stiff wick and not a limp one) ;)
Juice burns before, during and/or after making wicks
In the beginning I fought the normal shorts and hot spots but I have it down now using the drill bit method and can get all my coils to glow perfectly with the wick in or out.
I check my ohms (on Provari) before and after I install the wick and keep fiddling until they read the same and all coils glow with the wick in.
I do not cut the bottom of the wick on an angle as I feel this is not needed and would only "close-off/pinch" the juice flow on the end of the wick.
6/7 wrap 28ga Kanthal coil (not enough room inside the mini to play with this stuff much and it takes to long to heat up)
6/7 wrap 30ga Kanthal coil
5/6 wrap 30ga Kanthal coil
4/5 wrap 30ga Kanthal coil
3/4 wrap 30ga Kanthal coil
4/5 wrap 34ga Kanthal coil
3/4 wrap 34ga Kanthal coil
2/3 wrap 34ga Kanthal coil
4/5 wrap 34ga Nichrome coil
3/4 wrap 34ga Nichrome coil
2/3 wrap 34ga Nichrome coil

At first I think I had the wick to high because when I put the top cap on everything went to hell, so now I make sure it's at or below the top of the center post.

Currently my best set-up so far is a 2/3 34ga Kanthal on a trimmed down fat wick with a small inside hole. I think I used a 18 ga blunt needle to re-wrap the wick around.
I made a new coil and then trimmed off about 20 mm off of what was a 90 mm wick then I rolled it tight until it fell through the coil and tank hole. I then "un-wound" it until it was a perfect fit inside the coil. This worked perfectly btw. Not a single hot spot or short.

The only thing I haven't tried yet is to open the Air hole a little but I hate to f'up my top cap if that's not going to fix the weakness problem. I kinda like the draw on it now but if opening it up will fix my problem I don't have a problem with that.

I'm sure I'm forgetting to mention something in all this giberish but most of the info is here.

Anyone have any advise they could share? :confused:



This is what's worked for me:

Mesh:
- 325 cut about 1.5in x 1.25in or 40mm x 30mm (1.5in or 40mm as the height)
- Rolled tight around a small paperclip. There is a center hole and the wick leaves a gap in the wick hole. Vape with fill screw in.
- Torch each side once before rolling.
- Torch wick about 8 times (2 times per quarter). This is done by holding wick with tweezers in front of you and moving torch left to right, then right to left and then rotating wick a quarter turn and repeating.
- Juice burn 3 times (no quench - just let fire burn out).
- Usually no additional cutting required

Coil
- 3/2 wrap of 32AWG Kanthal A1 for approximately 1.3-1.5 ohms
- 4/3 wrap of 32AWG Kanthal A1 for approximately 1.7-1.9 ohms

The 3/2 wrap is good for using on an Ego battery (at about 3.3V). The 4/3 wrap is good for 3.7V vaping (epipe on an AW IMR 18350).

I've gotten excellent vapor and flavor this way. Can't say much for throat hit since I've been vaping 0-3mg juice.

I've tried the 400 mesh the same way but my results were better with the 325. I've also gotten good results using 30 AWG Kanthal A with 325 mesh as follows:

Coil
- 4/3 wrap of 30AWG Kanthal A for approximately 1.4-1.6 ohms
- 5/4 wrap of 30AWG Kanthal A for approximately 1.7-2.0 ohms

I find the 32AWG Kanthal A1 easier to work with the mini DID since it is less rigid (I wrap the coil once the wick is placed in the wick hole).
 
Last edited:

Uma

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 4, 2010
5,991
9,998
Calif
Hi there!
After complains about the slots, that they are someone else Greek ventor I will not give the third part!
So the set will be at 185 Euro from now and on and people who bought allready do not worry will refund or give a voucher for next order!
and after many requests I made it BTO so you can have this set cheaper!
Thank you all and I mean it!
Thank you!
Wow. Just wow. :(
Was it too round? Too shiney? Too vertical? Too PV-ish?
You're such an honorable man, Jim!
I just wish others were as honorable as you are.
This breaks my heart.

But on the other hand, yippy that we can buy them individually now! (much easier on the wallet for me).
 

MiriamWTH

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2011
778
2,889
55
Tilburg (Netherlands)
MMMMM I wonder if is rensponsible to go for a weekend to Amsterdam for "Business" lol
Mariaaa can I go?

Oh she said yes if I do not put in my mouth anything they give me overthere! lol

Darn! So no yummy Dutch cheese, no yummy Dutch beer... etc!
If you do go to Amsterdam let me know, would love to catch up for a beer or two, 3, or heck even 4 or more!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread